Deda Newton stems

[shinomaster]

What do you all think of these stems in the 26.0 clamp variety? Stiff? I am planning on using it with a new Deda 215 classic drop bar. Thanks!

[zap]

I thought the 130 newton 26.0 stem I used for a few weeks was rather flexible. I returned it to colorado cyclist for a full refund since it broke. The thomson i replaced it with worked quite well. Heavier but much stiffer.

[Grant McLean]

I might suggest the Deda Zero stem and the newtwon 31.8 classic bend.
It's a less expensive combo...

Or the Oval R700 classic bar with their 26.0 stem if you prefer the 'undersize'

FSA energy-T bar and OS99 stem is another value combo in a non-ergo bar.

-g

[Spicoli]

Ive broken two and my teamate broke one, all in the same season 2 years ago. But hey I eat too many donuts so I guess its my fault :D

[shinomaster]

Why are they so e$pensive? :confused:

[oldfatslow]

I'm stunned by the other posts on this thread. I have Deda Newton stems on four bicycles and have never had an issue (multiple years of riding). I have found them to be stiff and reliable. I weigh between 165-170lbs and at 5'10" am not exactly skinny.

[shinomaster]

I might suggest the Deda Zero stem and the newtwon 31.8 classic bend.
It's a less expensive combo...

Or the Oval R700 classic bar with their 26.0 stem if you prefer the 'undersize'

FSA energy-T bar and OS99 stem is another value combo in a non-ergo bar.

-g


I have the 215 bar. Looking for stem... I'll just get a wcs I guess. I've raced cross for four seasons on one with no issues.

[Blue Jays]

No mechanical issues at all with a nice Deda Arimo stem coupled with Deda Campione handlebars.
Seems sufficiently sturdy and well-built. The shape of those handlebars is a little goofy, but that's a subject for a different thread...

[3chordwonder]

I've also put in a fair distance on 215 bars with a 26 Newton stem without any problems. Granted I'm not a Clydesdale but not a flyweight either, and the roads here are not great.

The combination feels fine to me, in fact so much so that I've just bought another set to replace the Ritchey WCS on another bike (the bar shape of the 215s just suits me better, nothing against the Ritchey WCS stem or bar).

First time I've heard the Newton stems are fragile... ymmv, etc.

[Matt Barkley]

No problems with my 115mm and 120 mm 26.0 newtons on 215 shallows. I do recommend. Nice fit and finish from all the deda stuff IMHO :beer:

[RudAwkning]

I have the 215 bar. Looking for stem... I'll just get a wcs I guess. I've raced cross for four seasons on one with no issues.

Ritchey is doing the 4-Axis stem in a 26.0 clamp now so that could be an option. It's an 8 degree slope though and I think Deda uses 6 degrees.

What's nice about Ritchey's new offereing is that it comes in not only a flat black, but a "wet" black too.

http://ritcheylogic.com/web/Ritchey~Logic/Ritchey~Site/Templates/eproducts_single.aspx?id=28841&live=true

[Blue Jays]

Deda's finish called "Dark Metal" is very cool and sharp-looking. I dig that Ritchey offers two black finishes.

[Viper]

Anyone know if the older Deda Magic 26.0 would work well for him? My new bike comes with a Deda Magic...I was considering a Deda Newton 26...

[mgm777]

I can't comment on Deda stems because I haven't used or owned their product. However, I broke a Richey WCS 26.0 stem this week. The thing developed a crack emanating from the lower bolt that clamps the stem to the steer tube. I always use a Torque wrench when installing those things, 5 nm. Luckily, I noticed the crack while on a ride in Boulder, so I stopped by Excel and had them install a new stem. I had them replace it with the new Richey WCS 4 Axis thingamajig. My old stem was four years old, I figure stuff eventually wears out.

[11.4]

Deda Newtons had a nasty reputation early on from breakage, but that largely subsided as people began to understand the need for proper installation.

To your specific question, a 26.0 Deda Newton with 215 bars won't be as stiff as a 31.8 setup simply because the clamp geometry with the bars isn't as stiff. You can take a 26.0 and a 31.8 Newton stem with matching bars, mount them on a nice steel steer, and see that one has more flex than the other. Not hard to test. So that's the basic answer to your question as far as stiffness goes.

As for breakage, even with correct torque settings many people want to have the steer cut off 2-3 mm below the top of the stem, with a steer cap flush on top of the stem. With steers as thin-walled as they are these days, it's hard to get a correct clamping on the steer -- the top of the steer tends to cave in, or flex, or otherwise not allow the top clamp bolt to grip right, which puts more load on the lower one. That's enough to cause a broken stem. It is also on the way to breaking a steer as well. I'd encourage you to do what the Europeans do and cut off the steer 3-6 mm higher than the stem, put a spacer or two on top, and then add the cap. It's much easier on both stem and steer. You'll notice the difference when torquing down the clamp bolts on the stem.

[mgm777]

Geat info. Thanks 11.4!

[vaxn8r]

Deda Newtons had a nasty reputation early on from breakage, but that largely subsided as people began to understand the need for proper installation.
To your specific question, a 26.0 Deda Newton with 215 bars won't be as stiff as a 31.8 setup simply because the clamp geometry with the bars isn't as stiff. You can take a 26.0 and a 31.8 Newton stem with matching bars, mount them on a nice steel steer, and see that one has more flex than the other. Not hard to test. So that's the basic answer to your question as far as stiffness goes.

As for breakage, even with correct torque settings many people want to have the steer cut off 2-3 mm below the top of the stem, with a steer cap flush on top of the stem. With steers as thin-walled as they are these days, it's hard to get a correct clamping on the steer -- the top of the steer tends to cave in, or flex, or otherwise not allow the top clamp bolt to grip right, which puts more load on the lower one. That's enough to cause a broken stem. It is also on the way to breaking a steer as well. I'd encourage you to do what the Europeans do and cut off the steer 3-6 mm higher than the stem, put a spacer or two on top, and then add the cap. It's much easier on both stem and steer. You'll notice the difference when torquing down the clamp bolts on the stem.
That's exactly what I had heard/read. Those issues were 7-8 years ago and involved improper torqueing technique. Since then the stem bolts were redesigned iirc.

I've used Deda Newtons on 2 bikes including my tandem. On my road bike I use the 26.0, the tandem has a 31.0. Neither has been an issue climbing out of the saddle or descending. In fact I never really think about my stem unless I happen to be cleaning it. Put it this way, I don't think it's going to cost you a win.

[Spicoli]

Bummer for me was, I had the steer tube 3mm above top of stem although torque was done to the point where the bars could not be twisted too easily? Whatever that spec was I am not sure? I do like Deda stuff but I had a hard time with the Newtons. Now I am hooked on FSA stuff. They have tons of stem and bar options for everyone and every strength. An OS 150 was lighter, forged and way cheaper. I am only comparing 130's and the occasional 120 though. That Zero stem looks like it might be a really good way to go too?

[shinomaster]

I have some space over the stem. Ritchey had a white 4 axis at the bike show. If I could get that in a 26.0 it would be swell.

[lavi]

I have a newton setup (bar and stem) on one of my bikes. It works great and is stiff. I also have a magic setup on another rig. I don't like this as well. The magic stem seems to have more flex. I think I'm gonna swap the magic out for new zero 100. I'm a bit of a clydesdale though so that could account for the flexing. I can't go uphill very well, but I drop like a rock and have a good sprint. Sprinting is when I fell the flex the most, not climbing. I'm usually off the back praying for a quick death or a team car to hang onto. :beer:

[Blue Jays]

11.4, good point about leaving a little bit of steerer peeking out from above the stem and covered by a narrow spacer.

[shinomaster]

What about these stems? http://cgi.ebay.com/TTT-3T-ZEPP-ROAD-BICYCLE-BIKE-STEM-120MM-12CM-31-8-10_W0QQitemZ370024340775QQihZ024QQcategoryZ42333QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[musgravecycles]

Shino stay away from those things bro! Ask e-Richie (or search the archives) about his personal "Oh Jesus" moment with one of those...

[shinomaster]

is it just the ti bolts?

[11.4]

The Magic and Zero are both less stiff than the Newton. I wouldn't really recommend them if you're looking for a stiff stem.

Also, one other point: Those titanium bolts beg to strip or gall. I simply remove them and replace them with standard stainless bolts. I've never had a problem. It costs you something like 6 grams in weight.

I don't believe the Magic comes in a 26.0 -- only in 31.8. Don't recall about the Zero.

[Blue Jays]

Even though titanium is technically "stronger" than stainless steel it does have more inherent flexibility in certain applications. I tend to prefer stout stainless steel bolts where failure could have sudden & traumatic results.

[pdxmech13]

Shino, do you have something against Tom R ?

[shinomaster]

Shino, do you have something against Tom R ?

His name isn't Italian enough.

[pdxmech13]

yectir mot

[shinomaster]

yectir mot

Try pig Latin.

[3chordwonder]

About installing a spacer above the stem clamp, as 11.4 and Zinn recommend and which sounds very sensible, I noticed the Deda Newton stem on my Baum is clamped onto the Ouzo Pro steerer without any extra spacers above.

Reading up on Reynold's site, it looks like the Ouzo Pros at least are in fact meant to be installed without spacers above.

So maybe there's differences in the fork/washer designs and one steerer needs more 'help' than another. Could be Reynolds is right and if your fork is an Ouzo Pro (or maybe an older Reynolds made Serotta fork?) then you don't strictly need a spacer above the clamp.

imho, ymmv and if I lose my teeth due to the steerer breaking under the clamp, I'll be sure to post an update here while in the dentists waiting room.

[pdxmech13]

I think it comes down to more surface area and physics jmoh.