extending threadless steel steerer tube...

[amator]

I have a 1 inch steel fork threadless that neede approx 3 -4 cm more of spacers.
Is their a way of..
1) extending it safely,
if not
2) converting it to threaded so that I can use a quill and raise it up?

[93legendti]

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=409576&postcount=8

Material needed:

1. one package (two tubes) JB weld
2. 1" star nut
3. 6mm bolt long enough to thread deep into the star nut and extend above the top of the extended steerer
4. foam rubber, 1" ID
5. plastic drinking straw or vinyl tubing with ID 6mm or larger
6. 1" copper tube solder coupler with no stop in the middle

A 1” star nut will slip into a 1-1/8” steerer, if the sharp corners are filed down. Do this as uniformly as possible and be sure to reduce the diameter just enough to allow the star nut to slip into the steerer. If the star nut has guide tabs that hang down below the bottom, these should be cut off with a dremel abrasive cutoff tool. Degrease the star nut with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Degrease the inside and top of the steerer with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Sand the inner surface and top of the steerer with 80-120 grit sandpaper to promote adhesion of the epoxy.

Cut a length of plastic tubing long enough to cover most of the threads on the 6mm bolt. Leave enough threads exposed to thread all the way to the bottom the star nut. Apply a small amount of grease to the bottom of the bolt, after it’s screwed into the star nut to prevent adhesion with the epoxy. Leave NO exposed threads at the top of the start nut.

Something light in weight must be used to plug the steerer and prevent the epoxy from running into it. I used a piece of 1” foam rubber. The copper coupling worked pretty well as a cutting tool to cut a cylindrical plug from the foam.

Insert the foam rubber plug just enough to position the top of the star nut a few millimeters below the top of the steerer.

Remove any burrs from the ID of the copper tube coupling and be sure that it will slide over the steerer. Lightly grease or apply automotive paste wax to the inside of the coupling, leaving almost no visible grease, to prevent bonding of the epoxy to the coupling. Slid the coupling over the steerer to the desired length of extension. A piece of masking tape around the bottom of the coupling might be a good idea to keep the coupling from sliding down. Also be sure that the steerer is approximately plumb, or the epoxy won’t be level along the top.

Combine the two tubes of JB Weld in a small container and mix thoroughly. Apply some epoxy to the inside of the steerer, and apply a large amount to the star nut, to fill the area between the two stars. Insert the star nut into the steering tube, making sure that the top of the nut is a few millimeters below the top of the steerer. Carefully place the remainder of the epoxy into the steering tube, filling it to the top of the coupling. It may be difficult to get all of the air out of the epoxy, so watch for air bubbles in the first 30 minutes or so after placing the epoxy. A toothpick will help to work out air bubbles.

Don’t disturb the copper tube coupling for at least 6 hours, or until the next day. Then the coupling can be removed and the top cap bolt unscrewed from the star nut. I used needle nose pliers to grab the plastic tube and remove it. You should then have a solid epoxy extension on top of the original steerer, with a permanently glued-in-place star nut.

There is some chance that your top cap might hit the solid epoxy, depending on the design of the underside of the cap. A little hand relieving with a small dremel tool sanding drum and/or large drill bit might be required to provide clearance.

[amator]

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=409576&postcount=8

Gosh, err wow....thanks but... i was looking more for some sort of lock on attachment

[Tom Matchak]

You should then have a solid epoxy extension on top of the original steerer, with a permanently glued-in-place star nut.
After reading this proposed "solution" to a too-short steerer, my immediate thoughts were;

1) The steerer is what keeps your teeth in your head.

2) This is a joke, right?

[SoCalSteve]

After reading this proposed "solution" to a too-short steerer, my immediate thoughts were;

1) The steerer is what keeps your teeth in your head.

2) This is a joke, right?

My thoughts also!

Go the "threaded-steerer tube" route with a quill stem. Your teeth will love you for it!!!

Just sayin'

Steve

[Tom Matchak]

Gosh, err wow....thanks but... i was looking more for some sort of lock on attachment
Clamp-on steerer extenders are quite common. The guys at the LBS joke about needing to buy them by the case. You may have to look a little deeper to find one for a 1" steerer, but they're available. The extender design that you usually see will add 50-80mm to the steerer, so that may be a little more than what you're looking for (unless you're willing to cut your steerer even shorter!). Plan B (threading) is always an option, but you need to confirm that your 1" steerer has the proper wall thickness (1.6mm) to carry the thread, and to provide the correct ID for the quill stem.

[cmg]

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photos/250/NS-TSA-NCL-ANGLE.jpg

Insert this in the steerer tube, place spacers around it and place your stem. if your steerer has the star nut use it instead of the expander bolt.

[amator]

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photos/250/NS-TSA-NCL-ANGLE.jpg

Insert this in the steerer tube, place spacers around it and place your stem. if your steerer has the star nut use it instead of the expander bolt.

so the thicker wall part is 1 1/8?
and the part below inserts into the 1 inch steerer? :confused:

[amator]

Clamp-on steerer extenders are quite common. The guys at the LBS joke about needing to buy them by the case. You may have to look a little deeper to find one for a 1" steerer, but they're available. The extender design that you usually see will add 50-80mm to the steerer, so that may be a little more than what you're looking for (unless you're willing to cut your steerer even shorter!). Plan B (threading) is always an option, but you need to confirm that your 1" steerer has the proper wall thickness (1.6mm) to carry the thread, and to provide the correct ID for the quill stem.


ok, wall thickness is too thin to thread.

[Tobias]

Gosh, err wow....thanks but... i was looking more for some sort of lock on attachmentIs this the type you are looking for? If so there are many options in 1-1/8 size; which may also work on a 1-inch steerer with a standard 1 X 1-1/8 stem shim. I'd ask the manufacturer if you can't locate a 1-inch size.

[Tobias]

ok, wall thickness is too thin to thread.Also means the inside diameter is too large, right?

[amator]

Also means the inside diameter is too large, right?

actually, I just treid to push a quill in and it had a hard time going in.. strange.
wall thickness is definetely not 1.6mm

[amator]

Is this the type you are looking for? If so there are many options in 1-1/8 size; which may also work on a 1-inch steerer with a standard 1 X 1-1/8 stem shim. I'd ask the manufacturer if you can't locate a 1-inch size.

not quite, possibly this..if i can figure out whre the top cap fits
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPSTADJ/SM1141

[David Kirk]

Might be time to take a trip to New Forktown.

Dave

[Tom Matchak]

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photos/250/NS-TSA-NCL-ANGLE.jpg

Insert this in the steerer tube, place spacers around it and place your stem. if your steerer has the star nut use it instead of the expander bolt.
That little adaptor is intended to allow you to use a clamp-on (threadless) stem on a bike that originally used a quill stem. Its use requires that the ID of your steerer is sized for a quill stem. I see that the OP has responded that his steerer's wall is thinner than on a threaded one, so this adaptor's quill would not have the desired fit.

You don't use spacers with this adaptor. Clamp the stem to the larger-diameter head, which is just tall enough to mate with the stem's clamp. A _limited_ amount of height variation can be had by adjusting the quill insertion in the steerer, but that's not the primary function of this piece.

Yikes ... don't even think about using the star nut to secure this adaptor! There are a host of structural sufficiency and parts compatability issues that make that a bad idea.

[cmg]

the metal steerer post is from the Nashbar site. It is intended to have a 1" stem. it's actual dimensions are there. It is intended to go into a threaded steerer tube. It would work if the outside dimension matches of this device matches the inside dim. of your threadless steerer. the dims should be close. Check. If not then you will need the black post that was also posted. OR sell your fork and get a longer one on eBay.

[dvs cycles]

I have a 1 inch steel fork threadless that neede approx 3 -4 cm more of spacers.
Is their a way of..
1) extending it safely,
if not
2) converting it to threaded so that I can use a quill and raise it up?
Don't know what stem you have but one with more angle could be a solution.

[Dave]

After reading this proposed "solution" to a too-short steerer, my immediate thoughts were;

1) The steerer is what keeps your teeth in your head.

2) This is a joke, right?

Not a joke, but the procedure is aimed at carbon steering tubes and the increase in length should be limited to about 1cm. I did this to a LOOK carbon steering tube and I've ridden the bike thousands of miles since. 3/4 of the steering tube in the stem clamp area is the original.

As long as weight is not an issue, it would be simple to machine up an extender that could be epoxied or brazed in place. Unless you've got a friendly machinist, the cost would probably be prohibitive.

[chrisroph]

hmmmm, new fork, $400 or so, teeth, facial bones, healthy brain, and piece of mind worth .....hard to say but certainly more than $400.

[sevencyclist]

Is this the type you are looking for? If so there are many options in 1-1/8 size; which may also work on a 1-inch steerer with a standard 1 X 1-1/8 stem shim. I'd ask the manufacturer if you can't locate a 1-inch size.
I have used this on my commuter Surly Crosscheck to get a more heads up position, and it has worked well. They come in 1 inch as well as 1 1/8 inch sizes. If you can get over the stigma, I think it is good.

The clamp on is no less secure than the threadless stem installation.

[Tobias]

not quite, possibly this..if i can figure out whre the top cap fits
http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPSTADJ/SM1141As stated by others, that type of extender is meant for steerer tubes that were threaded; which have thicker walls, typically smaller ID, and most importantly the inside is not tappered.

Many threadless steerer tubes are tapered and may not have a uniform internal diameter -- they are thicker at the bottom where the stresses are higher. If you wish to use an adapter, it should clamp on the outside unless you confirm the WT is compatible.

As mentioned above another solution if you are only looking for a little extra rise is a high-rise stem; which is simpler and lighter weight. Whether that will work depends on what you are using at present; but I expect you already know that.

[amator]

As stated by others, that type of extender is meant for steerer tubes that were threaded; which have thicker walls, typically smaller ID, and most importantly the inside is not tappered.

Many threadless steerer tubes are tapered and may not have a uniform internal diameter -- they are thicker at the bottom where the stresses are higher. If you wish to use an adapter, it should clamp on the outside unless you confirm the WT is compatible.

As mentioned above another solution if you are only looking for a little extra rise is a high-rise stem; which is simpler and lighter weight. Whether that will work depends on what you are using at present; but I expect you already know that.

Currently have a 82 or 84, Are there 86 degree stems... the look of riser/flipped stems doesnt gel well with me.

[amator]

As stated by others, that type of extender is meant for steerer tubes that were threaded; which have thicker walls, typically smaller ID, and most importantly the inside is not tappered.

Many threadless steerer tubes are tapered and may not have a uniform internal diameter -- they are thicker at the bottom where the stresses are higher. If you wish to use an adapter, it should clamp on the outside unless you confirm the WT is compatible.

As mentioned above another solution if you are only looking for a little extra rise is a high-rise stem; which is simpler and lighter weight. Whether that will work depends on what you are using at present; but I expect you already know that.

Currently have a 82 or 84, Are there 86 degree stems... the look of riser/flipped stems doesnt gel well with me.

[Tobias]

Currently have a 82 or 84, Are there 86 degree stems... the look of riser/flipped stems doesnt gel well with me.amator, I understand that when it comes to aesthetics, only you can be the judge.

A six degree (i.e. -- 84) stem is much more common than an eight (82 degree), so that's more likely what you have if it's in that range. The next common stem angle you can use is a 0 degree, or 90 if you wish to look at it that way.

The down side IMO to a 0 degree stem is that it can't be flipped over which means it has a lot less adjustability. Regardless, if you have a stem that is about 6 degrees, I personally think it would look better in the +6 position than having an extender on the steerer tube and then having the stem in the -6 position. Not only would it look better IMO but it would probably function better as well (lighter, stronger, etc.).

[dvancleve]

amator,

If this is a nice steel fork that matches the frame (key point) you can have a custom quill style steel threadless stem made for less than a new fork and you don't have to worry about the paint on the replacement fork matching. This is a stem that Rick Hunter did for me (it is being painted now, I think): http://tinyurl.com/24lxuq. The angle etc. are all configurable (this one is intended to be parallel to a slightly sloping top tube) and if the "quill" is made of reasonably stout tubing it is plenty strong to extend up a bit past the end of the steerer... Tony Pereira also does this style stem (so does Sacha White and probably many others) and told me there was no problem making it strong enough to compensate for a really-too-short steerer. Obviously these are not light stems but they are good looking (IMHO anyway)...

Doug

[amator]

amator,

If this is a nice steel fork that matches the frame (key point) you can have a custom quill style steel threadless stem made for less than a new fork and you don't have to worry about the paint on the replacement fork matching. This is a stem that Rick Hunter did for me (it is being painted now, I think): http://tinyurl.com/24lxuq. The angle etc. are all configurable (this one is intended to be parallel to a slightly sloping top tube) and if the "quill" is made of reasonably stout tubing it is plenty strong to extend up a bit past the end of the steerer... Tony Pereira also does this style stem (so does Sacha White and probably many others) and told me there was no problem making it strong enough to compensate for a really-too-short steerer. Obviously these are not light stems but they are good looking (IMHO anyway)...

Doug

Nice :beer:
I saw that same style on a kirk