Using Park Tool CT-5 on a Campy 10s chain

[Kervin]

I've got today off and I was going to put on a new campy chain and cassette. Normally, I use a connecting link, but I forgot to order one in my last batch of bits. The chain tool I use is a Park Tool CT-5. Will that work to assemble the chain?

[J.Greene]

I've got today off and I was going to put on a new campy chain and cassette. Normally, I use a connecting link, but I forgot to order one in my last batch of bits. The chain tool I use is a Park Tool CT-5. Will that work to assemble the chain?

it does for me.

JG

[Dave]

Any good quality chain too should work, but their is a trick to it. You must eliminate all tension on the chain, while the pin is installed from the left side of the bike, per the instructions. I do this by draping the chain over the BB shell, instead of the chainrings. There is till a chance that the pin can go in crooked, but I've only had it happen once.

Also be sure you know how to adjust chain length. There are more wrong ways than right ones. If you set the chain length in the little ring and smallest cog, you always get the longest length that will handle any cassette within the RD's wrap capacity.

When the ends of the chain are brought together, some movement of the lower pulley should occur, indicating tension is being applied. If there is no tension on the chain, remove two links (one inch) at a time, until there is. Two more links (another inch) may need to be removed, beyond the point of absolute minimum tension, to keep the chain from rubbing on the chain guide tab as it passes under the upper derailleur pulley. If you want to see how much lower pulley movement will occur, without removing the extra inch of chain, shift up four teeth (11 to 15 or 12 to 16). This has the same effect as removing two links. Once this is done, the chain is set to the maximum useable length. Removing additional links will do nothing but reduce the derailleur's capacity.

[wasfast]

The 2 things to watch out for when using a chain tool on 10 speed chains: 1) The pin must be absolutely centered between the 2 side plates. There is very little material on the side plates compared to older chains so if you're off more than .003" or so, the side plate can pull off the pin under load. It's not difficult to do, just pay attention.

2) Note that the sideplates may not be supported on both sides of the pin. It depends on facing direction of the tool/sideplate but if it's not supported, the chain will rotate, making the insertion not straight. I remove with the tool on the outside of the frame, reinstall from the inside.

[Dave]

The 2 things to watch out for when using a chain tool on 10 speed chains: 1) The pin must be absolutely centered between the 2 side plates. There is very little material on the side plates compared to older chains so if you're off more than .003" or so, the side plate can pull off the pin under load. It's not difficult to do, just pay attention.

2) Note that the sideplates may not be supported on both sides of the pin. It depends on facing direction of the tool/sideplate but if it's not supported, the chain will rotate, making the insertion not straight. I remove with the tool on the outside of the frame, reinstall from the inside.

You must be referring to Shimano replacement pins, not Campy. Campy pins have a small head on one end,so they should never be pushed in too far. The worst that can happen is a tight link. Campy HD-L pins are never removed and replaced with another. You get one pin with a chain and one chance to insert is straight in, from the left side of the chain.

If you read Shimano's instructions, new pins are to be inserted in the SAME direction as the old one was removed, not the opposite direction.

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_08V0C/SI_08V0C_13_v1_m56577569830612411.pdf

[chrisroph]

dave, do you have any idea why campy tells you to insert the link from the left side of the bike? i've always done it that way but i don't see the logic?

[Dave]

dave, do you have any idea why campy tells you to insert the link from the left side of the bike? i've always done it that way but i don't see the logic?

The only reason I can think of is they want the head of the pin on the left side. Someone must have figured that the the pin will have less chance of pulling out that way.

[thwart]

Thanks for the information, folks.

I learn more stuff here... :beer:

[wasfast]

I wasn't talking about the magic pin but the regular pins, should you decide to change the chain "differently".

[Dave]

I wasn't talking about the magic pin but the regular pins, should you decide to change the chain "differently".

None of the modern 9 or 10 speed "flush-pin" chains can be joined "differently", by simply removing a pin and reinserting it. Only older style protruding pins chains have that option and there are not many of those made anymore.

If you remove a heavily peened flush-pin, it destroys the peening on the end of the pin and when reinserted, will have nothing but a light press fit to hold it in placed. This works fine with lightly peened protruding pins.

[Kervin]

Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to be sure because I have not had a hollow pin chain since my Regina days. I have some SuperLink IV's on the way for when I swap chains.

[Kervin]

Well, I put on the new Record chain today using the supplied connecting pin. I careful with my stuff, but that little alloy pin is something else! I bent the first pin, but got it connected using the pin from a second chain. I think I'll be using a super link from now on.

[Dan Le foot]

Well, I put on the new Record chain today using the supplied connecting pin. I careful with my stuff, but that little alloy pin is something else! I bent the first pin, but got it connected using the pin from a second chain. I think I'll be using a super link from now on.

Same thing hapened to me, Kevin.
And try getting another connecting pin without buying the $20 link set.
I have swithched over to the super link for the first time on all the bikes. Don't need the $85 Campy chain tool either.
Dan