stripped allen head removal?

[tv_vt]

I've got a stripped 3mm allen bolt on a frame. Not the threads, just the top of the bolt where you insert the allen wrench. The corners are rounded off, from too much torque, probably. Any ideas how to get these off?

Thanks,

TV

[maunahaole]

maybe try an ez-out, might be tough in that size though.

[rbtmcardle]

vice grips

[norman neville]

I've got a stripped 3mm allen bolt on a frame. Not the threads, just the top of the bolt where you insert the allen wrench. The corners are rounded off, from too much torque, probably. Any ideas how to get these off?

Thanks,

TV

a little spot weld'll do it. i guess of touch of solder too if you have that stuff instead. it's a pain, but fairly easy if you take your time.

ez-out is a possibility if you dabble in watchmaking...

[mjmcgee]

You might also try either a slotted or phillips screwdriver... Sometimes you can get just enough grip inside the rounded hole with one or the other.

Otherwise, find an old allen wrench and JB weld it onto/into the hole on the bolt, wait a couple hours, and it should screw right out.

Mike

[norman neville]

vice grips

yeah, that. good call

i was thinking that the bolt head itself was destroyed or broken off.

really, any way you can get some purchase on it to get it started. again, the idea is to keep it steady and it should twist out.

was this bolt rounded because it is fused in the hole?

[tv_vt]

about it being fused in the hole. I think it was stripped because of too much torque being applied. It's the bolt(s) on the rear adjustable dropout of a Look 481sl frame. It's not the end of the world to just leave it the way it is, but I'd like to lengthen the chainstay length a bit by sliding the rear dropouts back to smooth out the ride and get the tire farther away from the seat tube. It's only 3-4 mm away now. But I need to be able to unscrew the bolts to move the dropout plates back...

Thanks for the ideas. Not sure what ez-out is.

[benb]

First try the vise grips... then if that doesn't work if you have a grinder (e.x. Dremel) grind a slot in it for a flathead screwdriver.. that always works well.

Needlenose pliers can sometimes be used on a lower torque bolt if you can't get vise grips into the location.

[Dan Le foot]

I've had good look with ez out. Get the right size. Good luck.
Dan

[Dave]

The bolts on my KG 381 were button head M5, with a 3mm hex socket. They do strip easily and they are nearly impossible to grab with vise grips. I replaced mine with standard socket head cap screws in stainless steel, so they took a larger 4mm wrench. Not as sleek, but more functional.

An easy-out requires a hole to be drilled in the bolt, then a tapered tool with left hand spiraling is screwed into the hole, hopefully backing out the bolt.

Worst case, enough drilling with a 7/32" drill bit will take the heads off. Then the dropout can be removed and vise grips used to unscrew the remaining bolt.

[coylifut]

In the past, I've taken a dremel and cut a slot and then backed it out with a screw driver. I don't know how much bolt head you have to work with. Yes. It takes a steady hand.

[Hardlyrob]

The dremel trick works great, but if you're not comfortable with the tool, you do risk chewing up the finish if it slips.

Another trick I've use on my old MG when a 40 year old rusty bolt snaps is to get some JB Weld epoxy and epoxy an old allen wrench to the head. when the epoxy sets, you can use the leverage from the allen wrench to back the bolt out, and admire your new "tool" when you're done.

I don't know where I first saw that technique, but it works when nothing else will.

Cheers!

rob

[Fixed]

The bolts on my KG 381 were button head M5, with a 3mm hex socket. They do strip easily and they are nearly impossible to grab with vise grips. I replaced mine with standard socket head cap screws in stainless steel, so they took a larger 4mm wrench. Not as sleek, but more functional.

An easy-out requires a hole to be drilled in the bolt, then a tapered tool with left hand spiraling is screwed into the hole, hopefully backing out the bolt.

Worst case, enough drilling with a 7/32" drill bit will take the heads off. Then the dropout can be removed and vise grips used to unscrew the remaining bolt.
+1 some times it caves in on itself and you can pull it (work it ) out
cheers

[Orin]

Worst case, enough drilling with a 7/32" drill bit will take the heads off. Then the dropout can be removed and vise grips used to unscrew the remaining bolt.

Even better if you can find a left-hand drill bit - then if you are lucky, it unscrews while you drill it. If it doesn't, you are no worse off.

Orin.

[tv_vt]

You forumites are great. Thanks for the tips. Maybe my local general store (Dan and Whit's - "if we don't have it, you don't need it") will have a reverse drill bit. Never heard of that before. Don't have a dremel, but the slicing a slot idea sounds good, too. Dave, you are right on about bolt size and thread. M5 threading. Just bought some replacements today. Not sure what I'll do, but you've given me some possibilities.

Thanks again.

TV

[vaxn8r]

In the past, I've taken a dremel and cut a slot and then backed it out with a screw driver. I don't know how much bolt head you have to work with. Yes. It takes a steady hand.
This works.

[93legendti]

You might also try either a slotted or phillips screwdriver... Sometimes you can get just enough grip inside the rounded hole with one or the other...

Mike
Great advice, the slotted screwdriver just helped me remove a stripped stem bolt. Took about 5 seconds.
Thanks.

[Ken Robb]

If the screwdriver-in-the-hole isn't getting quite enough grip you can tap a slightly oversize one into the hole and see if it bites enough then. Usually the screwdriver blade is tougher than the screw head and it will cut a groove for itself in the screwhead.

[DRZRM]

+1

1. Epoxy in a new, cheap allen wrench
2. Pull out bolt and allen wrench
3. dispose of both

The dremel trick works great, but if you're not comfortable with the tool, you do risk chewing up the finish if it slips.

Another trick I've use on my old MG when a 40 year old rusty bolt snaps is to get some JB Weld epoxy and epoxy an old allen wrench to the head. when the epoxy sets, you can use the leverage from the allen wrench to back the bolt out, and admire your new "tool" when you're done.

I don't know where I first saw that technique, but it works when nothing else will.

Cheers!

rob

[weaponsgrade]

One more trick for the record: drill out the head. The bolt is in tension and drilling out the head will release the tension and (provided the threads aren't frozen), it should unscrew pretty easily.