1' inch threaded headset question

[amator]

I am looking at a stronglight A9 with english thread.
Is this the same as ISO threading and do italian bikes (circa mid-90's) use this threading pitch on the steerer forks.

They also come in 1" threaded french size.

BTW, it says that "The Delta headset uses needle bearings, which have a much larger contact area than the ball bearings used in most headsets, and never develop "indexed steering.

BUT" They don't turn quite as freely as ball-bearing headsets."

Does this mean they arent as smooth? :confused:

[stevep]

get a shimano. far better product.
those roller things are fussy.

the shimano will last 20 years without being touched.

[J.Greene]

BUT" They don't turn quite as freely as ball-bearing headsets."

Does this mean they arent as smooth? :confused:

I'll be happy to sell you ceramic HS bearings for that Delta. It will save you 10 watts. I'm working on a way to use that energy savings to power a Schmidt dual light setup.

JG

[Peter P.]

Italian and Japanese threaded parts CAN be interchanged, but only once i.e., after you change from one one to the other, don't go back. The TPI is the same but the thread profile is different and by constantly changing you can damage the steerer threads, particularly if you use steel threaded adjustable cups and locknuts. Alloy parts are likely to shed some material during initial threading, but after that they should be fine. I still recommend following the rule above after installation.

[Big Dan]

get a shimano. far better product.
those roller things are fussy.

the shimano will last 20 years without being touched.


Listen to Steve.....


:)

[michael white]

the stronglight was legendary, and will last, but I find overall that the Shimano is the best deal for the money. The Delta works fine IF you have it set up exactly right and keep it greased exactly right. Even so, the little steel races can get dinged and mess the whole thing up.

The Shimano is foolproof.

[amator]

Thanks to all for their advice.

I would reall;y like something nice and shiny in the stronglight shape (coke bottle?)that isnt too fussy and errr strong.

Not that Im biased toward shimano or japanese stuff but Im going campy on this build and somehow a shimano part seems outta place. .. I know Im considering a nitto stem on the bike but shimano and campy is like putting too arch enemies in a small room.
:)
Any other recommendations?, the old record would be nice but not affordable .

[Grant McLean]

Italian and Japanese threaded parts CAN be interchanged, but only once i.e., after you change from one one to the other, don't go back. The TPI is the same but the thread profile is different and by constantly changing you can damage the steerer threads, particularly if you use steel threaded adjustable cups and locknuts. Alloy parts are likely to shed some material during initial threading, but after that they should be fine. I still recommend following the rule above after installation.

I think you are refering to interchanging ITA and ENG freewheel threads.

Steerer theads are steel, so an aluminum headset cup is not going to do
any damage to a steel threaded fork steerer whatsoever. Most headsets
will thread on by hand, unlike a freewheel in the other thread which has to
be forced.

I've put dozens of english thread headset cups on Italian thread forks,
and don't even need a wrench to thread it on.


-g

[Peter P.]

I think you are refering to interchanging ITA and ENG freewheel threads.

Steerer theads are steel, so an aluminum headset cup is not going to do
any damage to a steel threaded fork steerer whatsoever. Most headsets
will thread on by hand, unlike a freewheel in the other thread which has to
be forced.

I've put dozens of english thread headset cups on Italian thread forks,
and don't even need a wrench to thread it on.


-g

No; I'm not referring to freewheels. I got this information from my Sutherland's Manual. The separate part about "damaging" the threads is my experience. You won't damage the threads per se so that they're unusable, but you WILL shed metal from the aluminum parts or, in an attempted steel to steel match up, some metal will have to come off either the steerer or the headset because the thread PROFILES are different; their PITCH is still the same.

[Grant McLean]

No; I'm not referring to freewheels. I got this information from my Sutherland's Manual. The separate part about "damaging" the threads is my experience. You won't damage the threads per se so that they're unusable, but you WILL shed metal from the aluminum parts or, in an attempted steel to steel match up, some metal will have to come off either the steerer or the headset because the thread PROFILES are different; their PITCH is still the same.

It's not my experience that any material will be removed by installing an english
thread headset on an italian fork, like the original poster asked doing.
In my 25+ years as a bike mechanic, I can't even recall ever seeing a dura-
ace threaded headset in italian thread, yet alone using one in the shop.
Yet somehow there are thousands of Italian bikes out there with dura ace
headsets. I've got several Derosa and Colnago bikes in my basement with
dura ace headsets, and I can tell you I would never force on a headset cup
to install it, they thread right on, usually without a wrench, just by hand.

I can't say what your experience is, maybe the other way around, (an Italian
cup on an english frame) is tighter? Can't say for sure i've never knowingly
tried that.

-g

[michael white]

Thanks to all for their advice.

I would reall;y like something nice and shiny in the stronglight shape (coke bottle?)that isnt too fussy and errr strong.

Not that Im biased toward shimano or japanese stuff but Im going campy on this build and somehow a shimano part seems outta place. .. I know Im considering a nitto stem on the bike but shimano and campy is like putting too arch enemies in a small room.
:)
Any other recommendations?, the old record would be nice but not

affordable .

I use an ultegra headset and Phil bb on my Colnago--just about everything else is Campy Super Record. That's because those two sealed items make a really big difference over time. You know, in the 80's, just about every Italian bike you'd see on the road had a mix. Very few complete groups.

Besides, if the Campy components have a problem with the Shimano headset, they sure haven't mentioned it to me. . . Maybe they're just being polite about it.

mw

[dirtdigger88]

Besides, if the Campy components have a problem with the Shimano headset, they sure haven't mentioned it to me. . . Maybe they're just being polite about it.

mw

your campy stuff knows its place :D

Jason

[Vancouverdave]

The BSA threading will work on an Italian fork--some mechanics insist that it's slightly better as the threads will turn a little less freely thus making adjustment slightly easier.
Your frame/fork need to be closer to absolutely perfectly faced to keep a STronglight (or a Chris King) headset happy. Shimano and Cane Creek use a cartridge bearing and tapered cones, and their system is much more tolerant of less than perfectly parallel surfaces. Also, the Stronglight as well as the Shimano system have the advantage of no permanent bearing surface to damage; all of the parts in either one that can wear are replaceable.
The Shimano headset will be much easier to keep adjusted. Buy an Ultegra or a 105, though--there is NOTHING about a Dura Ace that's worth the extra sheckels.