Campy chain question

[Dan Le foot]

Hi everyone.
I am moving my Campy stuff over to the CDA. It is now my 1st stringer.
I carefully pushed a pin out of the chain for removal. (10sp)Can I push the pin back in when I assemple it on the CDA? Or do I need to get the special Campy link?
I understand why you need the special pin for Shamano but not sure about Campy.
Thanks.
dan

[CPP]

I just pushed the pin back in and so far so good. I think what's important is that you use the Campy chain tool.

[dave thompson]

Isn't there a good removable link, similar to the SRAM, that works well on the Campy chains?

[mschol17]

The shop guys around here told me that with Campy chains they don't mess around with reinserting pins, they always use a masterlink. I have a Connex link, and it seems to be working fine.

[Dave]

You should never reinsert a pin in any of today's flush-pin chains. Once you've done that and lost track of which pin was removed, the chain is trash.

With a Campy UN chain, the best way to remove and reinstall the chain is to remove the HD-L pin, the pin next to it on the same pair of outer plates and use a connector link. If some other pin was removed, it's not a big deal but if you've got a choice, remove the HD-L pin. Unless the chain is the record version, the HD-L pin is the only one with a hole in it.

A Wipperman connex link in the Shimano 10 version, a SRAM 10 speed link or a Forster superlink will all work and provide the proper side clearance for the Campy UN chain. The SRAM link is not supposed to be reused, but apparently some people do, using a special pair of Park Tool pliers to squeeze the rollers together and release the link.

Of course Campy sells a short section of chain with two HD-L pins to rejoin a chain, but it usually costs $18-22. Why bother when a new chain can be had for $42?

[toaster]

The best is the Forster Super Link-III (CH 4068 Model-4)

5.9mm

Fits:
Campy CN6-REX, CN6-CHX, CN6-VL

SRAM PC1090R, PC1090, PC1070

www.forstertool.com

(630)-616-8177

[thwart]

I will vouch for the Superlink, seems to work well with my UN Campy chain.

[CPP]

so I guess the next time i'm churning over my favorite hill, I risk snapping the chain and racking my balls , or flying over the bars and cracking my skull. Is that pretty much the scenario?

[Dave]

The best is the Forster Super Link-III (CH 4068 Model-4)

5.9mm

Fits:
Campy CN6-REX, CN6-CHX, CN6-VL

SRAM PC1090R, PC1090, PC1070

www.forstertool.com

(630)-616-8177

I haven't logged enough miles on the superlink to pass judgement yet, but I've read a number of complaints about them wearing out quickly. I also found the distance between rollers to be a bit longer than the rest of the links, but it seems to work fine. At $5 from Lickton's I thought it was worth comparing to the $10 connex link.

[Avispa]

...I carefully pushed a pin out of the chain for removal. (10sp)Can I push the pin back in when I assemble it on the CDA? Or do I need to get the special Campy link?

Dan,

I do this all the time (when I have to, that is) on my record chains, unless they have more than 2.5K miles or so... Just make sure that when you put the pin back it is inserted as much as the other pins.... Compare them using a magnifying glass if you have to. Also you may have to bend the chain side to side until it feels that the link in question moves freely like the rest of the chain. You do not want to have a hard link or a pin not fully inserted. I stopped using the removable link once the Ultra Narrow Record chain came around, because I had a hard time finding them. But if you need some, they are widely available now...

In my experience, the best tool for a Campy chain is the Narrow Chain Campy tool.

..A..

[CPP]

whew!

[RudAwkning]

Be careful what masterlink you use in combination with an 11 tooth outer. The Wipperman links hit the lock ring becuase they're cut assymetrical. We use the IRD 10 spd campy links which seem to work pretty good.

[Dave]

Be careful what masterlink you use in combination with an 11 tooth outer. The Wipperman links hit the lock ring becuase they're cut assymetrical. We use the IRD 10 spd campy links which seem to work pretty good.

The connex link should only do that if it's installed upside down.

[RudAwkning]

The connex link should only do that if it's installed upside down.

I never even thought about that. :crap:

What an epiphany!

[Dave]

whew!

Since one person has got by with a dangerous practice, you now feel safe? I'd rather buy a new chain than have a crash.

A flush pin chain it totally different than the old protruding pin chains. Old chains relied heavily on press fit pins and the protrusion to keep them together. With a flush pin chain the ends are heavily peened. Once a pin is pushed out (just one side) the peening on one end is destroyed. That link won't have a fraction of it's original strength.

[Big Dan]

I think you need to test more than one item before you go out making claims.

:confused:

[Dave]

I never even thought about that. :crap:

What an epiphany!

It's also more likely to come apart. The proper direction has the slotted end pointing toward the back of the bike, on the lower section of chain.

[stevep]

chain a little expensive.
busted collarbone ...very expensive
busted collarbones for 2 of yr friends that you take down..eternal daamnation

or worse

never reinsert a pin in a modern chain. not safe

[CPP]

Ok guys, Thanks
I hate racked balls or broken collarbones!
I'll buy a new chain

[Erik.Lazdins]

I haven't logged enough miles on the superlink to pass judgement yet, but I've read a number of complaints about them wearing out quickly. I also found the distance between rollers to be a bit longer than the rest of the links, but it seems to work fine. At $5 from Lickton's I thought it was worth comparing to the $10 connex link.


I rode with a Forster superlink a few years back and found it to wear out quickly - I currently install the chain and ride it until I replace it - I do use a couple different cassettes as the chain ages.

All that said - I keep a forster superlink in my saddlebag should I need a fix out on the road - they can be very handy!

[Dan Le foot]

Thanks all.
Looks like I'm going to order a new chain to be safe.
I have about 3500 miles or so on the chain.
Do you think I'm going to need to replace the cassette? I'm not a real masher. One leg guy with a triple. But I do a lot of climbing.
Thanks.
Dan

[soulspinner]

Dave, hope ya heal fast from your sand/silt caused crash. As usual, I learned something from form your post. :beer:

[Dave]

Thanks all.
Looks like I'm going to order a new chain to be safe.
I have about 3500 miles or so on the chain.
Do you think I'm going to need to replace the cassette? I'm not a real masher. One leg guy with a triple. But I do a lot of climbing.
Thanks.
Dan

Your cassette should be fine, unless you spend a lot of time using one cog. I wear out the 19T first, then the 21T. Riders on different terrain might spread the wear out among more cogs. I got chain skip on the 19T cog of a steel cassette after using one chain for 6,000 miles, even though the chain showed very little elongation. I also got chain skip on the 19 and 21T titanium cogs of a Record cassette after only 4,000 miles with one chain. Of course this chain had even less elongation and roller wear. No more Ti cogs for me!

I also discovered that a worn cog would skip with a brand new chain, but worked fine with a slightly used chain, with only a few hundred miles on it. Since then, I rotate 2-3 chains at 2500 mile maximum intervals, so I never put a new chain on cogs with much wear. I just put the third chain on a cassette, after 5,000 miles. At this point I know I'm good for at least 10,000 from the cassette (the expected life of the third chain). More likely, I'll remove the third chain after 2500 miles (7500 on the cassette) and start the second half-life of the three chains, rotating more frequently. With any luck, I may get 15,000 from the cassette. On the other hand, I may find that the tooth profile on the 19T cog becomes hooked and unuseable before reaching that mileage. Time will tell.

[toaster]

Is the Forster Super Link wearing out before the chain? You know, the link is not supposed to be re-used and put on another chain.

The Wipperman is good, is easy to install and re-install and seems quite durable. There is a wrong way and a right way that is goes on. Just make sure you watch it on the smallest cassette cog to be sure it's not upside down.

[Dave]

Dave, hope ya heal fast from your sand/silt caused crash. As usual, I learned something from form your post. :beer:

Thanks. I'm healing pretty well, but two crashes of this type in one year is too much! I rode this mountainous route for 3-1/2 years and never went down before. My overall luck hasn't been good in Colorado. Four wrecks in four years. Three were due to road hazards - two sand and one oil slick - and the fourth from a teen driver's error. After 23 seasons, I recall a total of 9 wrecks and 5 helmets.

I'm better off than some other riders. This year, two riders went over the guard rail on different occasions and one died from his injuries. I came upon one of these incidents after rescuers were going down the very steep mountainside to retrieve one of the riders. I'm ready for a beer myself - maybe some Great Divide Hibernation Ale. :beer: