question about seat binder bolt

[itsflantastic]

This morning i was getting ready to commute to work (which I know get to do on my Serotta since I'm not in the city anymore. . .I've been loving it more and more each day and tweaking the position to get it just right. Almost there. . .)

Anyway,

I was doing just that, tweaking the seat height by about a cm or so, but when I tightened it back down, the bolt snapped! Half of it is still stuck in the seatpost lug on my CSI now, and I was wondering if anyone had some tips for getting it out.

I was thinking I could drill it out, but I'm reluctant to put a drill that close to an irreplaceable CSI.

help!
thanks!

no internet at my new apartment yet, I've DEFINITELy been missing the forum..

Dan

[rwsaunders]

Head to a trusted LBS or machine shop. They have a tap/die type device for removing damaged bolts, screws, etc. It's a risky job if you haven't done it before. I can see a torque wrench in your Christmas stocking.

[jthurow]

I had the same thing happen. I tried numerous things to get it out, spent lots of time and said lots of bad words. In the end I dropped it off at the lbs in the am and picked it up in the pm and it cost like $10. Definitely worth it to leave that one to the pros, at least for this ham fisted mechanic.

jimi

[Too Tall]

The stub is prob. fairly easy to get out if it was greased before it broke. Try carefull tapping on the broken end to "wind" it out...you might get lucky. Use some spray lube first.

If that does not work use an easy out kit. Piece of cake.

[davep]

The stub is prob. fairly easy to get out if it was greased before it broke. Try carefull tapping on the broken end to "wind" it out...you might get lucky. Use some spray lube first.

If that does not work use an easy out kit. Piece of cake.

Except an Easy Out kit will cost more than the $10 or so the shop will charge. Plus the cobalt bit to drill the stainess screw, which isn't the easiest thing to do with a hand drill. I would take it to a shop. (Actually, I would try to drill it out, but I've done it before and I have Easy Outs :)

As Too Tall said, if it was lubed it shouldn't be stuck to badly. You could even try gluing someting on to the broken end to give you someting to turn. A smaller screw with JB Weld may work.

If you do try to drill it, get a brand new bit, some cutting oil (WD40 works), center punch a divot to start so the bit doesn't slip, start with a small bit, GO SLOW, use lots of cutting fluid, and GO SLOW. Heat is your enemy.

[Too Tall]

Gasp...everyone doesn't have brad point bits and an easy out set???? Sad, really sad ;)

That's a GREAT idea using JBWeld + an cut off bolt. Slick.

[rwsaunders]

On second thought, maybe a new bike is in order. What size is your CSI? :cool:

[SPOKE]

The stub is prob. fairly easy to get out if it was greased before it broke. Try carefull tapping on the broken end to "wind" it out...you might get lucky. Use some spray lube first.

If that does not work use an easy out kit. Piece of cake.


what TT said!! if you try drill it out the broken stub will only spin further in while using a standard right hand style drill bit. now if you can locate a left hand drill bit then you can spin the stub right out in most cases.

[khjr]

I'm assuming that you have a two piece binder bolt - similar to what I have in my vintage steel frame. If so, and the coarse threads are reasonably greased, I've had decent luck with taking a sharp point (e.g. finishing nail) inserted through the sleeve end and winding the stub out in the same direction that it was screwed in from. Otherwise, the sleeve can be driven out with a large diameter punch from the other side (risks chipping the paint around the sleeve). I now make a habit of putting a slot in the end of the bolt so that when it breaks, I can use a jewelers screw driver through the sleeve end to unscrew the stub.