Pics of rear dropout adjust. screws?

[IXXI]

Anyone available to post a couple closeup pics of their rear dropouts with adjusting screws included?

Purchased a repainted but most excellent vintage Serotta (ex 7-11 team; now painted w/ Serotta pearl white and charcoal decales) that came with the screws; would like to see how others have theirs set up, as I'm in the process of (re)building mine.

Have lots of questions about this set-up as I've never owned a bike with them: bike has 125mm rear spacing, can accomodate campy 8-speed (but would like to 'upgrade' to campy 8-speed ergo levers). What's a good starting point to position screws & rear axle? Am also curious about the history of these screws; ie. why they originated in the first place (to align rear tire, I know) since newer bikes (other than single speeds) have dropouts that don't require adj. screws.

Thanks to all in advance.

[rwl]

IXXI,

I've always adjusted the screws to line up the center of the axle with the projected centerline of the seat stays. I'm sure that there are good reasons to move it forward or back.

If you're assembling these for the first time, there's a spring, the long screw and a cap, on the original campy sets. It screws in from the front, so the cap is on the back. The spring does, well, pretty much nothing.

Rick

[IXXI]

Thanks for the insight on the screws, Rick.

I've still got a ways to go on the build, but the bike will be real looker when its done. Of course, will post pics when its ready.

Am still open to anyone else's experiences with these adjusting screws...

Thanks!

[Smiley]

did you get the STS stem yet ?

[Kevan]

I read somewhere that the adjustment screws are intended for wheel alignment on the frame, as well as, and more importantly, allow additional space, if larger/smaller treads or fender are used.

[IXXI]

Intersting. Am planning on this being a pretty limited use bike (one wheelset, no fenders.) Makes me sort of wonder if I "really" need the screws at all. Assuming I put the wheel all the way in and have it seated at the back of the dropout (the openings are horizontal, and openings face forward), would I be wrong in assuming the wheel is "straight" (a la the dropouts of today's frames with no screws?)

Oh, and Smiley-- no stem yet; but will check when I get home from work.

Andy

[Bill Bove]

For best indexed shifting, the wheel should be as far forward in the dropouts as possible while still maintaining complete contact between the dropout and the axle locknuts.

[Too Tall]

You don't really "need" the screws but I think they look great and if set correctly will locate the wheel properly with just a yank. The spring is to prevent the screw from rotating as it is a course thread that sort of rattles around if the threads are chased clean. Use some bee's wax on the threads in either case.

[woolly]

Sounds like you've got an excellent candidate for a cool single-speed or fixed-gear bike! Toss the adjusters, dump one of the front chainrings, lose the shifters & derailleurs, install a single rear cog w/ the appropriate amount of spacers to fill up the rest of the cassette body, and you're in business! Build up a rear wheel w/ a new hub & try fixed-gear riding too! Then, send Dennis Bean-Larsen a picture of your new baby to be included in www.fixedgeargallery.com. Too much fun!