Night Road Riding

[rdparadise]

Well, with the shorter days, comes the night road rides. I've been leading a Tuesday night ride here in So. Jersey for over 10 years now and been riding through the winter at night for the past 4-5.

We had a good crowd last night with 11 guys, ended up doing just north of 35 miles. My ride starts in Glocester County and goes south to Salem County before returning. The route includes mostly farmland with few, if any stoplights. :beer:

Just wondering if anyone has used a dynamo hub light for the front and back for night riding? I've been considering and just wondering if it's a worthwhile upgrade. I don't typically commute to work in the winter so it'd only be used for recreation.

For the first hour or so, we had daylight into dusk and then darkness. Street lights are not existent so good bike lighting is paramount.

Just wondering what everyone else is doing now that the days are becoming much shorter for weekday riding? :confused:

Bob

[J.Greene]

Just wondering what everyone else is doing now that the days are becoming much shorter for weekday riding? :confused:
Bob

Dinotte in front with a large rear blinkie light (cateye i think). I like the ability to ride different bikes and those lights make for an easy switch.

JG

[De Vingard]

I use a "Lupine Nightmare Pro" which has enough power to light for 2.5 to 4 hrs. (depending on what level of light is used, 9 Watt or 25 Watt).

Dynamo is an option but as J.Greene I like to use my lightsystem for different bikes (MTB, Crossbike, Road bike) and the Lupine takes about 2 minutes to mount it on a different bike.

[mschol17]

The E6 light is perfect for fast riding in dark conditions; the optics are very good, so the vast majority of light falls in a trapezoid directly in front of you. It will generally be better than most LED lights at speed, since it's point source can be better columnated than an LED's less than point source. See Peter White's website for everything you need to know about lighting.

If you have fenders, the Spanninga battery-powered taillight is the way to go; I didn't want to run a wire all the way to the back of the bike.

If you're afraid of cars at all, the DiNotte tail light is something to see. It's pricey, though. I'm building a copycat version of the 3W taillight for my somewhat hazardous commute.

[palincss]

Just wondering if anyone has used a dynamo hub light for the front and back for night riding? I've been considering and just wondering if it's a worthwhile upgrade. I don't typically commute to work in the winter so it'd only be used for recreation.

For the first hour or so, we had daylight into dusk and then darkness. Street lights are not existent so good bike lighting is paramount.

Just wondering what everyone else is doing now that the days are becoming much shorter for weekday riding? :confused:

Bob

I use generator hub powered headlights, but typically have used a couple of battery powered taillights. However, the setup you describe is not at all uncommon and works quite well. For me, the big issue has been that I don't care for the look of wires draped across the frame and routed up inside the fender for the taillight. (I do have one bike set up that way, but it's got a fork-mounted sidewall generator.)

If the question is are generator hub powered lights good, absolutely yes. They are extremely common among randonneurs - and if there's anybody who is really serious about long distance all night road riding, it's them.

One really great thing about that kind of setup is it's always there, ready when you need it with no need for prior charging or attention or pre-planning. Hit the switch, voila you have lights. When they're not on, you'll probably never know you've got a generator hub (assuming you get a SON or one of the top-line Shimano models) rather than a regular wheel.

[davep]

I use a Schmidt generator hub for randonneuring where carrying and changing batteries is a hassle, but for rides of a couple hours I wouldn't bother with a generator. I have a Dinotte 600 that is brighter than anyting I have seen with a generator, and it came with two rechargeable battery packs and a killer taillight.

[dauwhe]

The Schmidt generator hub is great. Always there, and no need to worry about batteries. I do use battery taillights, but those last a good long time.

Peter White is a good place to start researching this stuff:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm

Dave

[gdw]

I'm currently running a 12 watt halogen single beam for riding on both dirt and paved roads. The lamp has a 30 degree floodlight which provides adequate lighting for the evening commute but isn't ideal for speeds over 15mph. I'm planning to replace the bulb with a 10 degree spotlight which should be adequate for higher speeds. The light is powered by a compact 6 volt battery pack which provides about an hour and a half of runtime. I use an old red CatEye LED for my tail light.

This link provides some pretty good info on the different lighting systems:

http://nordicgroup.us/s78/

The author isn't a fan of dynamo systems.

[David Kirk]

I see dead people.

Dave

[gdw]

I don't see dead people but a mountain lion crossed the road in front of me last week. BFK, big f*****g kitty.

[Volant]

I built my own - I'll have to post some beam shots as you wouldn't believe me if I told you how much light they put out (relatively light with 4.8Ah, 14.8v li-ion batteries). A little brighter than a BMW high-beam. :banana: :banana: :banana:

[gdw]

Halogen bulbs? You can really throw some light with overvolted MR11's or 16's.

[thejen12]

I'm using a NiteRider MiNewt X2 Dual headlight (dual LED lights with rechargeable Lion battery) and a couple of Cateye taillights. I like the dual headlights because they are independently aimable, so I can get whatever coverage I want (wide or deep or a bit of a combination). What I don't like about them is that they are not independently controllable - for example they are both on high or both on low or both on blink - can't mix and match the intensity. Even so, they're a huge improvement over the 15 watt halogens I used in years past.

Jenn

[Homsie]

I use a Light and Motion ARC HID that I have mounted on my helmet. I have a couple of different other clip on lights for the rear and as a backup light for the front. My latest acquistions are the KNOG frog lights which are single LED lights in white and red. They can be mounted easily on your bars and your seatpost and can flash or just be on. They are supposed to last 140+ hours using a watch battery. They are good "be seen lights" that augment the HID. I also use them late in the season when I have just a short way to go after a group ride.

James

[Too Tall]

I use a Schmidt with an E6. Perfect :) That is a great combo. Plently of light. My E6 is located on a custom fr. skewer mount nice and low. I do have a nightrider HID and like that much better when there is no moon or I'm in the mood to hammer in the dark. Nothing beats massive overkill yah know?

[TimD]

I join an 0545 group ride periodically. Reaching the start on time means leaving home at 0525. It is pitch dark at that hour these days.

I really like riding at night but recognize it isn't for everyone and is inherently more risky than is riding in daylight.

I've recently switched from a custom 10W halogen system to a NiteRider MiNewt X2 with a single LED. It is a nice setup available at a reasonable cost (I consider $600 for an HID system unreasonable, but admire the output). I would like a few more battery mount options; the length of the supplied cable essentially restricts mounting to the top of the stem.
Occasionally I augment this light with a cheap 5 LED headlamp set to flash.

On the rear I've been using a Cateye 5-LED taillight, with a fixed mount. This is very bright, at least when the 2 AAA batteries are fresh. Cateye seem to have standardized on a 0.5" square mounting tab on their lights and offer fixed mounts (of varying diameter) as spare parts. This allows one to attach fixed mounts to several bikes, on the seat tube, seatpost, seat stay, or wherever. One may then simply unclip the light itself when it is not in use or is needed on a different bike.

Unfortunately during a single-speed downpour ride the other day I drowned one of these taillights, so if you choose one and plan to ride in the rain you might want to seal the battery cover and seam between the lens and the body with electrical tape.

Reflective ankle straps complete the scene... All up, a far cry from riding through Boston on a Saturday night with no helmet, no lights, and no reflectors...

[thejen12]

I've recently switched from a custom 10W halogen system to a NiteRider MiNewt X2 with a single LED. It is a nice setup available at a reasonable cost (I consider $600 for an HID system unreasonable, but admire the output). I would like a few more battery mount options; the length of the supplied cable essentially restricts mounting to the top of the stem.

Tim,

Have you considered mounting the battery on the head tube, or under the top tube? Just some suggestions I've read elsewhere. I also think you can buy an "extension cord" from NiteRider, as well.

Jenn

[Too Tall]

Glad y'all are thinking about lights. Every freakin' day I see riders on dark roads with nothing or worse. Today I was riding behind a guy on the trail to work and realized he had no front light. I pull up beside him and say "how can you see?" (It was pitch dark) and he replies "I can't I'm depending on you". :rolleyes:

[Fixed]

bro i have a little ft, blinking light it's worse on back streets black holes pop up
cheers imho

[Ozz]

L&M Arc HID in front...mounted on bars (I don't like things on my head....)and a Niterider Tailfazer blinky in back....

I'd like to get a dedicated commuting type bike with generator hub and such...maybe someday.

[djg]

L & M ARC HID in front and whatever of various blinkies I have around (or on the bike), depending on the bike. I also have various reflective strips on, e.g., my various commuting bags.

I gather you'll get all sorts of praise for generators from folks in the rando crowd or others who ride all (or mostly) through the night with some frequency, and if you're interested in that sort of riding or any number of things, there's no reason not to have a bike set up that way, but, ... for most of us, dealing with an hour or so of after-work commuting or the tail end of a club ride, it's not just overkill but overkill that's not that flexible. Battery lights have their limitations (such as battery life), but most are compact and easily transferred from bike to bike, and plenty throw out plenty of light. My main head lamp, the L&M, is great -- I can point it down and to the right a bit, so the main beam is slightly away from oncoming riders, and still get excellent illumination of my path of travel and excellent visibility to the outside world. I get a few hours per charge.

[rdparadise]

Guys:

Thanks for your thoughtful responses. I've had various degrees of effectiveness with battery powered lights, that's why I asked about the dynamo system. I'm going to check into the Nitto to see what that runs $$$ wise.

I've used blinkies in the back and have the lastest Cateye which is blinding with fresh batteries. I'll probably continue this route in the back for now. I don't like wires running all over my bikes either, as some have mentioned.

I don't expect to really do the rondoneuring thing anytime soon, although I have done a double century in the past.

Thanks for your thoughts! It's much appreciated.

Bob

[Bud]

Ijust ordered a cygolite dual cross 200 to use on the commute. It looks like I can also easily mount it to my ski helmet for night skiing in the backcountry. In the past, I've had a nice halogen Nite Rider product (for caving) and was pleased with it, though it was rather bulky. This cygolite unit has a nice compact NiMH battery. I'll let you all know how it shakes out when I get the thing...

[mjb266]

One of the best tricks I thought up was to buy reflective stickers from McMaster. I was going to put them between every spoke hole or every other spoke hole but upon testing I found that stickering 1/2 of a wheel with white reflective stickers creates a flashing rim front and rear. It can be seen from drivers behind you, in front of you and if you have a rim with anything but a box profile then you can be seen from the side.

Of course I also sprung for the Niterider HID for the front, a rear seatpost flasher and three of the frog lites on the back. in White and red. The Frogs are awesome and worth the $10/each.

[Too Tall]

One of the best tricks I thought up was to buy reflective stickers from McMaster. I was going to put them between every spoke hole or every other spoke hole but upon testing I found that stickering 1/2 of a wheel with white reflective stickers creates a flashing rim front and rear. It can be seen from drivers behind you, in front of you and if you have a rim with anything but a box profile then you can be seen from the side.

Of course I also sprung for the Niterider HID for the front, a rear seatpost flasher and three of the frog lites on the back. in White and red. The Frogs are awesome and worth the $10/each.
Actually if you put one 2" strip of 3m reflective tape between just one spoke pair on the rim it creates an awesome light show ;) Don't forget a small hunk on your crank arms.

[TimD]

Have you considered mounting the battery on the head tube, or under the top tube? Just some suggestions I've read elsewhere. I also think you can buy an "extension cord" from NiteRider, as well.

Jenn, thanks, yes, I have tried that. With an 1.5cm HT extension, 2 cm of spacers, and a 120mm stem the supplied cable is a bit short. I'm aware of the extension cable (which I think may be long enough for a helmet mount) but I think they retail for $30.


Actually if you put one 2" strip of 3m reflective tape between just one spoke pair on the rim it creates an awesome light show Don't forget a small hunk on your crank arms.

I've done something similar. A low-cost solution is to use reflective mailbox number stickers - in particular, the 'blank' !
Thirty cents for a 2"x3" rectangle which may be cut to fit.

Few things cooler than silently rolling through the night under a moonlit sky... :cool:

[Ahneida Ride]

Dinotte in front with a large rear blinkie light (cateye i think). I like the ability to ride different bikes and those lights make for an easy switch.
JG

The Dinotte tail light is beyond description. ;)

[Tom]

My new 10-led Cateye blinky came in the mail yesterday. I made the mistake of loooking at it after I put in the batteries and turned it on.

Blue spots for twenty minutes. Now I can piss off the cars coming and going.

[palincss]

My new 10-led Cateye blinky came in the mail yesterday. I made the mistake of loooking at it after I put in the batteries and turned it on.

Blue spots for twenty minutes. Now I can piss off the cars coming and going.


Is that really what you want?

[thejen12]

My new 10-led Cateye blinky came in the mail yesterday. I made the mistake of loooking at it after I put in the batteries and turned it on.

Blue spots for twenty minutes. Now I can piss off the cars coming and going.
Curious, was that the TL-LD1000, or the newer TL-LD1100? I have the 1000, and I'm bummed that just a few months after I got it the 1100 came out. However, my riding buddy said she could hardly ride behind me last night without getting sick from my tail light, and it wasn't even dark yet!

Jenn

[Tom]

I leave it on steady and use my older blinky for blinking. There are so many confusing blinky patterns with the new one, if I were driving up behind me I'd get all confused and drive right into it.

Besides, somebody on here wrote something about reading that blinkys on blinky confuse people's depth perception so I leave the one blinky on blinky to catch their attention and then have the other blinky on steady so they know where I am.

[thejen12]

somebody on here wrote something about reading that blinkys on blinky confuse people's depth perception so I leave the one blinky on blinky to catch their attention and then have the other blinky on steady so they know where I am.
I've been watching blinkies in the morning to see what seems to work best, and this is just the conclusion I've drawn so far:
- One steady blinky, so you're always seen.
- One flashing blinky to grab attention, and also because a flashing blinky usually indicates "bicycle", whereas a steady blinky might just be a stationary vehicle on the side of the road, or something.
- One "traveling" blinky (the one that goes from side to side) because it looks kind of wobbly and I think it says, "give me a little more space, I'm not sure if I'm going to be a little to the right or a little to the left of where I am now".

Then sometimes I think I'm over-thinking it, because even with just one little flashing blinky the bikes are pretty noticeable from behind.

Jenn