Do you crimp your...

[Kevan]

ferrules and if so, why?

Like my style, I don't.

[sg8357]

The skilled solder the ends of the cable.
I've tried heat shrink tubing, works nicely, doesn't smush the cable.


Scott G.

[Kevan]

I'm referring to the ferrules used on housing ends. I've seen'm crimped and uncrimped and my impression is it ain't needed, but am open to argument.

[barry1021]

Doesnt make sense to me, after carefully rounding the housing so the cable runs smooth, why would you crimp the fitting? You are talking about the ferrules that interface between the housing and the derailleurs, shifters, brkes etc?? Emphatically no.

b21

[benb]

You can crimp them just a little bit to make them stay in place without deforming the inside of the housing...

I do if I think it's needed to keep the ferrules from coming loose... if they fit snugly I don't bother.

[Kevan]

You are talking about the ferrules that interface between the housing and the derailleurs, shifters, brkes etc?? Emphatically no.

b21

I've removed old stuff and found that the ferrules had been pressed against the housing ends for both brake and derailleur lines and got to wondering why. Also, a while ago I stopped by a shop and bought a short stretch of housing to replace the old one for my rear derailleur. I handed over my old one so they could match the length, I got engaged in conversation with one of the shop owners and this guy walked up with the new housing with the ferrules already crimped in place, housing length was matched. Ultimately, it didn't last long the plastic on the housing cracked, I think doing the crimping is a no-no. I don't think the new housings require it.

This topic is pretty minor, but it is one of those nagging little questions.

[Kevan]

You can crimp them just a little bit to make them stay in place without deforming the inside of the housing...

I do if I think it's needed to keep the ferrules from coming loose... if they fit snugly I don't bother.

Frankly, I personally don't even go that far. Thanks!

[benb]

What I'm way more wary of is corrosion between the ferrules & the frame..

I had this happen on an aluminum frame.. it was quite a mess.

[Jeff N.]

ferrules and if so, why?

Like my style, I don't.I sometimes do, but just slightly. Probably generally not necessary, but if they fit loosely, crimping just helps hold 'em on during the build process.

[gdw]

It shouldn't be necessary especially on a road bike. If your housings are moving within the ferrules than they are the wrong length.

[Too Tall]

Yes and no. Brake end caps don't really need a crimp because the cable housing are made of plastic coated spiral windings thus the ends will remain a consistent shape when under a load over time...I lightly crimp them so that when the bike is partially disassembled for washing etc. they do not get slightly out of place on the housing end...reassembled incorrectly than whamo the first time you wang hard on the brakes you need to re-position the brake cable..duh..so I generally use a light crimp.

Shift cables absolutely MUST have a proper crimp pref. using a shimano tool that will create two sharp shallow crimps a few mm's back from the end where it will not deform the cable housing opening. As mentioned prior, the end cap is a must to prevent the ends of the shifter housing which are parallel wires bound with plastic from moving when under load...if you do not crimp than the individual wires will push the cap forward and cause lousy shifting after a while.

So there you have it. Sigh.

[Geoff]

aren’t the ferrules on the Shimano shifter cable plastic (except one on the little piece at the RD cable stop)? I know the ones I installed yesterday are? Am I using the wrong ones or could some one enlighten me as to how you crimp plastic with out breaking of cutting it?

G

[benb]

Plastic ones usually don't require crimping to stay in place in my experience.. and I like them cause they don't corrode to the frame.

[Too Tall]

;) hehe. I chuck the plastic ones in the trash straight away. They fit nice and tight...yes they work beautifully for a while than crack and the housing will deform. When installing aluminim end caps use a dab of white lithium grease on the end so that the housing stop will have a layer of lube...that will prevent corrosion. I could guess why Shimano went to the plastic end caps but than I'd have to kill me.

[gdw]

Interesting information from Too Tall. I've seen the individual steel wires start to seperate on several bikes I've worked on for friends. One or two wires worked their way through the opening at the end of the ferrule and I assumed that the hole was oversized especially since it hasn't occured on any of the smaller diameter Shimano housings with plastic ferrules.

[Kevan]

Yes and no. Brake end caps don't really need a crimp because the cable housing are made of plastic coated spiral windings thus the ends will remain a consistent shape when under a load over time...I lightly crimp them so that when the bike is partially disassembled for washing etc. they do not get slightly out of place on the housing end...reassembled incorrectly than whamo the first time you wang hard on the brakes you need to re-position the brake cable..duh..so I generally use a light crimp.

Shift cables absolutely MUST have a proper crimp pref. using a shimano tool that will create two sharp shallow crimps a few mm's back from the end where it will not deform the cable housing opening. As mentioned prior, the end cap is a must to prevent the ends of the shifter housing which are parallel wires bound with plastic from moving when under load...if you do not crimp than the individual wires will push the cap forward and cause lousy shifting after a while.

So there you have it. Sigh.

You've got my ear...er, eyes. I don't own this shimano tool you refer to, but I do have a Park http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=14&item=CN%2D10#

Does the Park lack what's needed? What specific Shimano tool you talking about? Yet more tools are needed?!

Thanks for your comments, I think you've caught others, besides myself, unaware.

What can I tell you? I wasted my misspent yoot in a hardware store, not a bike shop.

[Too Tall]

....The CN-10 has a built in crimper for cable end caps ...

Ayup, you got the goods. Do a few test crimps.

[BdaGhisallo]

I am with Too Tall. I get the cnc crimpable ferrules from biketoolsetc.com and I crimp them. They may not need it, but crimping them makes sure that they go nowhere! And I have been using 5mm shift housing with my STI for the last few years. It's much stiffer and allows for a better shift, imo.

I use this special crimping tool. It does 4mm right through 6mm, including inner cable tips, IIRC. It crimps 360 deg around the ferrule. It's nice! It ain't cheap, but it is worth it since it will last forever.

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=457514754376&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Cable-and-Housing&tc=Crimpers&item_id=LY-T08

Geoff

[Too Tall]

Geoff, that's kinda slick. Isn't that same as a video/audio connector crimper? I wonder.

[BdaGhisallo]

It may well be TT. It does a super job on cable ferrules. I don't know how well it works with normal metal ferrules. The ones I use are the cnc ferrules from biketoolsetc.com that specifically say they are made to be crimped. I combine these with the Jagwire teflon lined housing they sell along with the Jagwire teflon coated cables, and I couldn't imagine wanting a better housing/cable setup. It's nice to be able to get housing in something other than Shimano's drab grey.

Here's a link to them, available in 4 or 5mm and in silver or black, if my memory serves.

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=457514754376&d=single&c=Repair-Parts&sc=Cable-and-Housing&tc=Ferrules-5-mm&item_id=JW-1153BK

A bottle of these will last you forever!

Larry at Biketoolsetc is a wealth of knowledge and very helpful.

[barry1021]

thanks for a-learnin' me.

b21

[Too Tall]

I think those are what wheels mfg makes...yep I've got a shelf full of crimps and ferrules from him...GREAT stuff. Hmmm, I may have to see if a cheapo audio crimper will do the job I really like what you are doing with circular crimps. A small prob. I have with the Shimano tool is if the specs of the end caps are not exactly same as shimano it will ovalize the resulting crimp slightly which takes some practice to get it right...but your way is much better.