Need help Removing my ultegra 6600 triple Crankset

[Acotts]

Hey folks,

I finally have all the parts and I am starting the build. Thanks for all the suggestions on how to approach it.

Right now, I am stripping my old bike for good parts. But I am having trouble in a couple of places. First, I am having a hell of a time removing the drive side cranks from my Ultegra 6600 triple crankset. It is the 2006 model so it is the octalink with an external BB. I have removed the non-drive side crank, but the other wont budge. Any tips on how to get the other crank off? I have not removed the chain rings or anything and there does not seem to be any bolt to use a crank puller on.

Second, are rear cassette a real b*cth to pull off. Any tips on cassette removal? I have the proper key and chain whip tool; should I go to home depot and by a 18" plumbing wrench as well so that I can really put some torque on the bastard?

Thanks for the help folks,

Kindly,
Andrew

[bpm]

I think you have the terminology a bit confused, which makes answering your question difficult. If you have an Octalink bottom bracket, you don't have external bearings. Octalink is more of a "traditional" bottom bracket in that the bearings are internal to the bottom bracket shell, and the spindle is part of the bottom bracket. For that, you'll either need a crank puller or the crankset will need the self-extracting bolts. If you have the newer 10-speed Ultegra with the external bearings, the spindle is actually fixed to the driveside crankarm. To remove that, you first remove the non-driveside crankarm and then just pull the driveside off by hand.

I hope that helps.

[BarryG]

To answer the second question, cassettes shouldn't be that hard to pull off unless the lockring was seriously overtightened. Use a 15in Crescent (adjustable) wrench on the lockring tool with a chainwhip properly applied to a cog.

[Dave]

Hey folks,

Second, are rear cassette a real b*cth to pull off. Any tips on cassette removal? I have the proper key and chain whip tool; should I go to home depot and by a 18" plumbing wrench as well so that I can really put some torque on the bastard?

Thanks for the help folks,

Kindly,
Andrew

Cassette lockrings usually take a 50Nm torque. I'd buy a cheap beam type torque wrench so you can both remove and properly install the cassette lockring and the BB bearing cups.

It pays to read how to work on something before you try to do it and ruin something. The Park Tool website should prove helpful.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp

[tbushnel]

To answer the second question, cassettes shouldn't be that hard to pull off unless the lockring was seriously overtightened. Use a 15in Crescent (adjustable) wrench on the lockring tool with a chainwhip properly applied to a cog.

I find putting the lockring tool in a vise makes things easier. Less stuff to have to hold onto.
Ted.

[Acotts]

I am following the instructers per the Park Blue Book. But, I am sure many of you have noticed that the real world can deviate from the instruciton manual. I have seen the pics in the book, you can eat off the parts.

And as BPM suggested, i got the terminology wrong. I am using the Hollowtech II system, not the octalink. Oops.

That said, i followed the instructions. I removed the non-driveside crankarm , but the driveside crank arm is in there pretty well.

Now, I assume that it is the spindle itself that the non-driveside crankarm was attached to. Should I use a mallet on the spindle to try to drive the other crank arm out? Or will I will I start busting things?

THanks.

[bpm]

I'd be suprised if you couldn't pull the driveside off by hand. It's pretty snug but there's nothing mechanical holding it in place once the non-driveside is off. Having said that, a couple of gentle taps with a mallet on the exposed end of the spindle won't do any damage unless you really hit it.

[barry1021]

Cassette lockrings usually take a 50Nm torque. I'd buy a cheap beam type torque wrench so you can both remove and properly install the cassette lockring and the BB bearing cups.

It pays to read how to work on something before you try to do it an ruin something. The Park Tool website should prove helpful.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp

When I first started wrenching I printed out the relevant articles in color and put them in a notebook for reference, which I still use on occasion. You shouldn't need a pipewrench on a bike. The problem is that the teeth of the wrench are not made for bike parts. You are better served buying a piece of black pipe of sufficient diameter that slides over your socket wrench to use as a cheater bar. As mentioned, a good vise is helpful. Torque wrenches are important, although i would not use one to remove anything, just to install to the proper tightness.
b21

[biker222]

Shimano lock rings are torqued to 40NM (approx 29.7ftlbs), this is stamped on the lock ring.

[DRZRM]

I can't imagine what it is stuck to, but use a rubber mallet if you have one.

I am following the instructers per the Park Blue Book. But, I am sure many of you have noticed that the real world can deviate from the instruciton manual. I have seen the pics in the book, you can eat off the parts.

And as BPM suggested, i got the terminology wrong. I am using the Hollowtech II system, not the octalink. Oops.

That said, i followed the instructions. I removed the non-driveside crankarm , but the driveside crank arm is in there pretty well.

Now, I assume that it is the spindle itself that the non-driveside crankarm was attached to. Should I use a mallet on the spindle to try to drive the other crank arm out? Or will I will I start busting things?

THanks.

[dannyg1]

[QUOTE=Acotts)

Second, are rear cassette a real b*cth to pull off.

[QUOTE=Acotts)

Which company makes your rear freehub? If it's aluminum and you're a rider who rides hard, you'll run the cogs into grooves you create with pedaling force. Best thing for getting a cassette off a freehub with this condition that I've found is to take a screwwdriver, chainwhip and a small rubber headed hammer and hit the teeth of each cog gently away from pedaling direction. It helps to mount the rear wheel to the frame but the chainwhip won't clear on the smallest three cogs, which are usually the ones that are set most heavily in. It's a bear and it takes good time, but the lesson is a masher shouldn't be riding an aluminum freehub anyway.

Regards,
DG1

[BarryG]

Best thing for getting a cassette off a freehub with this condition that I've found is to take a screwwdriver, chainwhip and a small rubber headed hammer and hit the teeth of each cog . . . I suspect Andrew was asking about removing the lockring, not the cogs themselves.