Buildign first bike...any tips

[Acotts]

Greetings,

I bought a Fierte Steel yesterday! It is the shizz!

Anyways, I am building up my first bike. I am cannibalizing parts from another road bike. Any one have any tips for building a bike? I think I have a pretty good idea how to do it, and I am pretty sure I have all the necessary parts and tools. What I don’t have is a methodology.

Is there an advised system for installing parts? Like crankset first, then bars, then, drive train, then cables? Any places that first timers often get tripped up on? What are the most critical things to grease or not grease?

I am having the bike shop install the headset and fork as I don’t want to mess with it. Maybe next time. I have also done an audit with a mechanic to ensure that the parts I want to transfer are compatible.

Also, any tips for cleaning old parts? Thanks folks. I can’t wait to get this thing on the road! :beer:

Cheers,
Andrew

[Pete Serotta]

Bottom Bracket next, then other hardware..

As to cleaning - -Go over to SPOKES and use his cleaning machine ;)

[rePhil]

Develop your own sequence. Pete starts with the BB. I tend to assemble the BB and cranks with the wheels on and the bike on the ground. I like to lean over and pull up on the torque wrench when tightening the BB and crankarms. I start with the headset, then the rear derailleur..because I like to.
Take your time, use the right lubes and torque values.
For cleaning I use mineral spirits and / or brakeclean.

You'll get plenty of tips here. I'll start with don't let the bars swing around and bang on the top tube.

[CNY rider]

Little stuff that's easy to forget to have on hand:

Spacers
Cable ends
Little donut things that go on the cables to protect the top tube.

Measure twice, measure again, then cut.

You will at some point screw something up. Don't sweat it. For me on my first build it was a set of headset bearings.

If you do better with a manual to follow, I would suggest Barnett's. It's basically idiot-proof if you take the time to follow step by step.

Enjoy!

[regularguy412]

Develop your own sequence. Pete starts with the BB. I tend to assemble the BB and cranks with the wheels on and the bike on the ground. I like to lean over and pull up on the torque wrench when tightening the BB and crankarms. I start with the headset, then the rear derailleur..because I like to.
Take your time, use the right lubes and torque values.
For cleaning I use mineral spirits and / or brakeclean.

You'll get plenty of tips here. I'll start with don't let the bars swing around and bang on the top tube.

This is a good point, IMO. I like to do any of those 'torquey' things with both wheels on the ground. It's too easy to accidentally bend a frame tube.

Mike in AR

[Jeff N.]

Install in this order:
1. Seatpost and seat. Grease all metal to metal contacts throughout the installation process. I grease the s##t outa everything.
(At this point, clamp the post/frame in your work stand.)
2. Grease shell and BB threads, install BB and Crankset and pedals.
3. Press in Headset. Easy does it. Grease is the word!
4. Install fork, spacers, stem, and bar with brifters. You want free steering movement. Don't over tighten anything. Thats important.
5. Screw in rear derailleur.
6. Screw on calipers, front and back.
7. Install front derailleur, with cage 3mm above large chainring.
8. Install wheelset.
9. Install chain ( remove only enough excess chain that allows smooth
movement with the chain in the small chainring up front and small sproket
in the rear. Install pin).
10.Adjust limiter screw in the rear derailleur that allows the chain to flow smoothly in the small sproket.
11.Adjust front derailleur limiter screw that allows noise-free movement in the small chainring.
12. Install brake cables. Get your "doughnuts" ( cable silencers) handy, as well as ferrules and cable ends. Carefully cut to desired length before installation.
13. Properly align brake pads to your wheelset.
14. Install derailleur cables. Again, carefully cut cables and housing to the proper length. If Dura Ace, and you like the little gear indicator, take that into consideration when cutting length.
15. Put the front derailleur into the large chainring and adjust the cable barrel on your bike (impossible if you own a Meivici or any bike with fixed, non-adjustable cable barrels) to allow smooth, noise-free movement through the front derailleur. The outside limiter screw will have to be tinkered with for proper operation. You don't want your chain coming off inside or outside during a ride, right?
16. Now go to the rear derailleur and perform the same thing, using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur, or a combination of that and the barrel adjuster on your machine.
17. Shift through the gears repeatedly until you're satisfied that everything works beautifully. By now, you should be "getting wood".
18. Pinch on all cables ends.
19. Install bar tape, computer, seat bag, and any other accessory you have.
20. Take the bike out of the work stand.
21. Clip in and take a trial run and adjust seat, bars etc. to your liking. Some derailleur adjustment may also be needed at this time.
22. When you get back to your garage, lean the bike against something, stand back, and stare at it for a few minutes. Wipe it down.
23. Go crack a beer and repeat #22. Crack a smile too! I might've left something out. But you get the idea. Jeff N.

[Dekonick]

Install in this order:
1. Seatpost and seat. Grease all metal to metal contacts throughout the installation process. I grease the s##t outa everything.
(At this point, clamp the post/frame in your work stand.)
2. Grease shell and BB threads, install BB and Crankset and pedals.
3. Press in Headset. Easy does it. Grease is the word!
4. Install fork, spacers, stem, and bar. You want free steering movement. Don't over tighten anything. Thats important.
5. Screw in rear derailleur.
6. Screw on calipers, front and back.
7. Install front derailleur, with cage 3mm above large chainring.
8. Install wheelset.
9. Install chain ( remove only enough excess chain that allows smooth
movement with the chain in the small chainring up front and small sproket
in the rear. Install pin).
10.Adjust limiter screw in the rear derailleur that allows the chain to flow smoothly in the small sproket.
11.Adjust front derailleur limiter screw that allows noise-free movement in the small chainring.
12. Install brake cables. Get your "doughnuts" ( cable silencers) handy, as well as ferrules and cable ends. Carefully cut to desired length before installation.
13. Properly align brake pads to your wheelset.
14. Install derailleur cables. Again, carefully cut cables and housing to the proper length. If Dura Ace, and you like the little gear indicator, take that into consideration when cutting length.
15. Put the front derailleur into the large chainring and adjust the cable barrel on your bike (impossible if you own a Meivici or any bike with fixed, non-adjustable cable barrels) to allow smooth, noise-free movement through the front derailleur. The outside limiter screw will have to be tinkered with for proper operation.
16. Now go to the rear derailleur and perform the same thing, using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur, or a combination of that and the barrel adjuster on your machine.
17. Shift through the gears repeatedly until you're satisfied that everything works beautifully. By now, you should be "getting wood".
18. Pinch on all cables ends.
19. Install bar tape, computer, seat bag, and any other accessory you have.
20. Take the bike out of the work stand.
21. Clip in and take a trial run and adjust seat, bars etc. to your liking. Some derailleur adjustment may also be needed at this time.
22. When you get back to your garage, lean the bike against something, stand back, and stare at it for a few minutes. Wipe it down.
23. Go crack a beer and repeat #22. Crack a smile too! I might've left something out. But you get the idea. Jeff N.

Fierte steel - before you start use framesaver. :)

[Acotts]

Thanks everyone. This has been super helpful. I still have some parts comming in the mail so I wont be able to get to it until next week. But I am definately obsessing about it and trying to triple check that I have all the right tools.

The only tool that I dont seem to have would be a torque measure. I figured I could get by without one. Does that sound about right.

As for the framesaver, I am going to jump on that.

Thanks for the help folks. This is a good forum.

Testify!

[serpico7]

Yes, you can get by without one. But if you have a tendency to give bolts "just one more turn", a torque wrench can save you some headaches. I'm planning a bike build and just picked up a couple of torque wrenches - it's insurance against me damaging any (more) parts by over-tightening.

[Clydesdale]

Take notes on things like chain length, cable length, etc. It can save you some time when replacing by not having to stop and compare. Use a good cable cutter, it will save many headaches. If you are using barrel adjusters, leave yourself a few threads in both directions just in case. Don't get in a hurry and don't force anything that doesn't seem to want to go. Post pics when you get done.

[Ti Designs]

First build - keep the beer in the fridge until you're done. It's common knowledge that bringing beer to a bike shop can get your bike done after hours while you wait. The mechanics will crack open a beer while working on your bike - that's OK, they do this all day long. And they build bikes during the day too.

[Fixed]

First build - keep the beer in the fridge until you're done. It's common knowledge that bringing beer to a bike shop can get your bike done after hours while you wait. The mechanics will crack open a beer while working on your bike - that's OK, they do this all day long. And they build bikes during the day too.
cheers hic up :beer:

[MilanoTom]

From Jeff N:

"1. Seatpost and seat. Grease all metal to metal contacts throughout the installation process. I grease the s##t outa everything.
(At this point, clamp the post/frame in your work stand.)
2. Grease shell and BB threads, install BB and Crankset and pedals.
3. Press in Headset. Easy does it. Grease is the word!
4. Install fork, spacers, stem, and bar. You want free steering movement. Don't over tighten anything. Thats important."

I don't put the bar on until later in the process. With the bar off, it's easier (for me, at least) to intstall and align the height of the brake levers. Besides that, if the bar is installed early in the process, it's way too easy to have the bar swing around at some point and bang the top tube. I usually install the bars and the front brake right before I'm ready to start installing the cables.

Best of luck with the project.
Tom

[serpico7]

I like the idea of mounting the levers on the bars before attaching bars to bike. I'm also doing a build. Couple of questions:

1. With new Shimano shift and brake cables and housing, is there any need to apply grease/lube before install? This stuff is pre-greased, right?

2. Front derailleur - I recall reading somewhere that this should be aligned with (made parallel to) the chain, not the chainrings (subtle diff). Correct? I guess it should be aligned with chain in the biggest and smallest gear combos (big-small, small-big).

[MilanoTom]

I like the idea of mounting the levers on the bars before attaching bars to bike. I'm also doing a build. Couple of questions:

1. With new Shimano shift and brake cables and housing, is there any need to apply grease/lube before install? This stuff is pre-greased, right?

2. Front derailleur - I recall reading somewhere that this should be aligned with (made parallel to) the chain, not the chainrings (subtle diff). Correct? I guess it should be aligned with chain in the biggest and smallest gear combos (big-small, small-big).

DISCLAIMER - I'm not a pro - I'm just an amateur who has only built about a dozen or so bikes. I still make some fairly stupid mistakes.

I can't really speak to the first question. I use Campagnolo, and even though they're also pre-greased, Sometimes I end up putting some lube on a rag and running the cable through it (leaving barely enough coating to feel) before sliding it into the housing. A trusted mechanic told me to do it, so I do it. If I heard a more trusted wrench tell me otherwise, I'd reconsider.

When I install the front derailleur, I line it up first with the chainrings. After the cable and chain are installed, I always end up having to tweak the alignment. At that point, rather than being concerned with whether I'm aligning to the chainring or the chain, I fiddle with it until it works without the chain rubbing the cage in the gear combos you mentioned. I won't admit to doing the following myself, but I know plenty of old-school types who will bend a braze-on derailleur's cage if it can't be set perfectly within the derailleur tab's limits of alignment.

Regards.
Tom

[Acotts]

Thanks folks.

[Dave B]

Also.....Have fun. I remember when I first started building for myself I was very nervous and spent a few bucks fixing what i messed up.

Then when I began building them for buddies and they would critique what I did I got pissy and told them to do it themselves or pay soeone to do it instead of takig advantage of the time and money I spent to buy the proper tools, practice until i got it right and so on.

Then I started building them with my daughter watching (she is 2) and she would pick up a tool and go over and pretend like she was doing what Iwas doing.

I realized how fun building a bike can be.

Getting something right on the first try. Getting a wobble out of a wheel, or the brakes centered. i love when I take it out for a test spin and everythign is quiet, workign together like it should. Call it the Chi of a bike if you will. But building a bike is fun....don't let ego, information or lack ot it get in your way.

Enjoy the process and when somethign is frustrating, begin something else.

Say out loud what you are doing so that it makes sense. many people see bikes as machines...if you do then it will only be that.

When you put a bit of you into it, these machine parts become something.

Make it fun!

Prez

[sg8357]

I like doing the rear derailer setup without the chain.
Eyeball the top pulley and cog alignment to set the derailer limits.
You can rotate the derailer into the cogs to check the limits.
Then shift to the middle of the cassette and align the top pulley
with the cog, using the cable adjustment to get pulley & cog aligned.
The top pulley has some lateral play, so try to center it.

step 22a, lean bike against garage door, take pics, post to forum.

Scott G.

[MilanoTom]

Also.....Have fun. I remember when I first started building for myself I was very nervous and spent a few bucks fixing what i messed up.

Then when I began building them for buddies and they would critique what I did I got pissy and told them to do it themselves or pay soeone to do it instead of takig advantage of the time and money I spent to buy the proper tools, practice until i got it right and so on.

....

Prez

Heck, I built my first one for a buddy. Do you think I wanted to be my own guinea pig??? Seriously though, a few years back I'd bought a used Vitus for parts, but the frame was too big for me. I'd done most of my own maintenance, but not tried a complete build, so I rebuilt it with odds and ends (mostly 7 speed Shimano 105) and offered to my buddy to try on long term free loan. He initially resisted (Why would I want a road bike??? I like my mountain bike!"), but gave it a try anyway. Fast forward five years. He does his own builds (the latest being a Kelly Knobby-X for commuting) rides with me on centuries and MS-150 tours, and on a far too regular basis can kick my butt.

Prez - you got it right - have fun!!! That includes laughing at the mistakes.

(My favorite being the time I got a couple of the big spacers out of order on a Campagnolo 10-speed cassette. As 10-speed was pretty new at the time, it took close to an hour of examination by me and a professional mechanic to figure out why the heck it didn't shift quite right....)

Regards.
Tom

[serpico7]

For titanium bike builds, does anyone recommend using plumbing tape on the BB threads in addition to anti-seize?

[SoCalSteve]

For titanium bike builds, does anyone recommend using plumbing tape on the BB threads in addition to anti-seize?

Yes, Ive done that with all my Ti bikes with great results.

Steve

[serpico7]

Yes, Ive done that with all my Ti bikes with great results.

Steve
Great, thanks.

[Dekonick]

For titanium bike builds, does anyone recommend using plumbing tape on the BB threads in addition to anti-seize?

Yes - I do that now. Prevents the creaks...

[eddief]

before doing bar tape. If you do this there is actually a relatively high percentage chance you'll like your tape job when done. And then try to remember for the next time which side you start in which direction; clockwise or counter. Same with bb cups, same with pedal threads. Actually patience and grease are probably top of the list.

Prior to putting the mouse condoms on your cable ends while dialing things in, I like to apply super glue to the cable ends to avoid the piss off of frayed cables.

Good luck.

[DarrenCT]

For titanium bike builds, does anyone recommend using plumbing tape on the BB threads in addition to anti-seize?

my lbs did that on my sachs buildup

no probs to date...

[serpico7]

Building up a Fierte Ti and had a few questions about where I need anti-seize and where regular grease is sufficient.

1. braze-ons for the bottle cages made of alu? If so, just regular grease, right?

2. Rear derailleur hangar - Ti or alu?

3. Seatpost clamp - Ti or alu?

4. Threaded braze-on (not sure what these are called) on the headtube into which the barrel adjuster screws in - Ti or alu?

5. Front derailleur band clamp - should I use anti-seize or grease here before mounting to seat tube?

6. Insert in the seat tube for the seatpost is alu, right? So regular grease is fine?

TIA.