BlackTiBob
08-14-2007, 09:23 AM
Didn't want to hijack chakatrain's wobble thread so started another. Thanks for all the good info in his thread!
That thread helped me to find my wobble problems but now I'm working on fixing them. I had front wheel bearing play too loose issue and headset bearing play too loose issue.
Bike is 54 Ottrott with Cane Creek S6 headset, Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels.
1. Wheels- could move rim back and forth/sideways about 1/16". Wheel has black 1" diameter disk outboard of bearing with 5 small detents. Does Mavic make a tool that fits this? I used a wooded shish-ka-bob stick to "get er done" and turn in about 270 degrees. What's proper spec for wheel sideways movement at rim, 0 - 1/64"?
Or aim for 0, but don't want bearing to be too tight? Thanks
2. Headset issue is more mystifying to me as I don't really understand them (trying to learn) and another rider at club ride told me what I need to do and it doesn't make sense when I tried myself. I've gone to Cane Creek site and see schematic. He loosened stem clamp bolts and attempted to tighten compression bolt. It tightened somewhat but then "spun" so upper bearing cap that says Cane Creek can still be turned by hand but there is some resistance. Before tightening, it was easy to turn/very loose. Went on ride and front end feels more precise but no big downhills in the ride.
He said to remove compression bolt and top cap and take "bigger allen wrench" and tighten bolt or nut below, that inners may have moved up/ not allowing top cap to screw down to where it should???? I removed top cap and see a hollow alum "cup" with threaded hole at bottom but nothing in it to screw in. In fact, I see no star nut and schematic seems to have 2. Tonight I'll see if star nut is wedged inside top cap and I just was not aware of it being there. I'm "mystified in Minnesota".
I used the suggested: straddle front wheel facing rear, clamp on front brake, push front and backwards. Slop is better but still noticeable movement.
Any ideas/suggestions greatly appreciated. I really want to learn how to service the bike myself for the many years I'll be riding it. I also REALLY want to be comfortable in high speed downhills as I love them and the occassional high speed wobbling descent has spoiled the fun factor.
I do have decent downhill techique, I think, with a very aero shape, loose grip on the hoods etc. I try to let the bike run on it's own.
Thanks for any help/ideas/suggestions.
Bob
That thread helped me to find my wobble problems but now I'm working on fixing them. I had front wheel bearing play too loose issue and headset bearing play too loose issue.
Bike is 54 Ottrott with Cane Creek S6 headset, Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels.
1. Wheels- could move rim back and forth/sideways about 1/16". Wheel has black 1" diameter disk outboard of bearing with 5 small detents. Does Mavic make a tool that fits this? I used a wooded shish-ka-bob stick to "get er done" and turn in about 270 degrees. What's proper spec for wheel sideways movement at rim, 0 - 1/64"?
Or aim for 0, but don't want bearing to be too tight? Thanks
2. Headset issue is more mystifying to me as I don't really understand them (trying to learn) and another rider at club ride told me what I need to do and it doesn't make sense when I tried myself. I've gone to Cane Creek site and see schematic. He loosened stem clamp bolts and attempted to tighten compression bolt. It tightened somewhat but then "spun" so upper bearing cap that says Cane Creek can still be turned by hand but there is some resistance. Before tightening, it was easy to turn/very loose. Went on ride and front end feels more precise but no big downhills in the ride.
He said to remove compression bolt and top cap and take "bigger allen wrench" and tighten bolt or nut below, that inners may have moved up/ not allowing top cap to screw down to where it should???? I removed top cap and see a hollow alum "cup" with threaded hole at bottom but nothing in it to screw in. In fact, I see no star nut and schematic seems to have 2. Tonight I'll see if star nut is wedged inside top cap and I just was not aware of it being there. I'm "mystified in Minnesota".
I used the suggested: straddle front wheel facing rear, clamp on front brake, push front and backwards. Slop is better but still noticeable movement.
Any ideas/suggestions greatly appreciated. I really want to learn how to service the bike myself for the many years I'll be riding it. I also REALLY want to be comfortable in high speed downhills as I love them and the occassional high speed wobbling descent has spoiled the fun factor.
I do have decent downhill techique, I think, with a very aero shape, loose grip on the hoods etc. I try to let the bike run on it's own.
Thanks for any help/ideas/suggestions.
Bob