Handbuilt wheelset question

[swalburn]

I'm thinking about having a handbuilt wheelset built for me in the future. I'm looking at either the dura ace hubs or the DT Swiss 240 hub matched with either a mavic open pro rim or DT 1.1. The dura ace set up would be over 125 dollars cheaper. I'm 190 lbs and going 32 spokes in the front and back. I'm probably going to get them from Colorado Cyclist. I have mountain wheelset from them, and it has been bombproof.

I'm going through old threads, but haven't found much comparing these wheelsets. Are the DT Swiss Hubs worth more than 125 dollars over the Dura Ace hub. I'm really looking for a lot of bang for the buck, but was hoping to get something in the 1550 gram range. Will the dura ace wheels be substantially heavier.

I appreciate any insight I can get.

[justinf]

I have both and I think the Dura Ace/OP is a greaat value. I don't see where you really lose much to the DT, which is also very nice.

Of course, if you run Campy then the choice is clear. But it sounds llike you're shimano.

[-dustin]

what spokes are you planning on using? i have 9sp D/A hubs laced to RR1.1s (eyelet) 32, 3x, 2.0, 1.8 Comps with brass nips...they aren't in the 1550 range...not even close. i built them to be strong and handle touring, which they did.

if money weren't an object, i would've gone with DT hubs...i like their engagement system more (Star Ratchet). though, D/A seals are damn nice (they were, at least).

bang for the buck will come from D/A, in my opinion. they definitely roll nicely, fairly light-ish, good seals, easy enough to work on.

oh, and DT for the rim.

[Fivethumbs]

I have Open Pros and they are nice wheels but after a while you start to hear an annoying "tick" when the wheel is spinning. I think my next wheels may be Velocitys.

[PK9]

Given your weight and the notion you want a sturdy set of wheels, I'd suggest the Dura Ace. As I understand it, the Dura Ace rear hub flanges are farther from the centerline which increases the strength of the wheel (all other things being equal).

As Jeremy at Alchemy explained it to me, wheel strength increases geometrically the farther you can get the flanges outward. The DT rear hubs (again, as I understand it) have pretty narrowly spaced flanges comparatively.

OTOH, the DTs are lighter.

So, if it's strength you're after, Dura Ace. Lightness, DT.

Hope that helps.

[cmg]

use Dt swiss revolution spokes or Sapim lasers, wheelsmith db15. thicker ones on the drive side.

[FierteTi52]

use Dt swiss revolution spokes or Sapim lasers, wheelsmith db15. thicker ones on the drive side.
DT hubs are nice, but not worth the extra money IMHO. The DT 1.1 rims are nice, but are a little harder to mount tires on than OP's. It is true that OP's have the ticking noise but you can only hear when the bike is on the workstand, not while on the road.

Here are few of my handbuilt varations using D/A hubs. They all ride very similar

1. 32 hole 10spd D/A hubs, Black Open Pro rims, Revolutions spokes 3 cross front, Revolution spokes non drive side, double butted drive side, with alloy nipples. (Local built)

2. 32 hole 10spd D/A hubs, Black DT 1.1 rims, Sapin Laser spokes 3 cross front, 3 cross Sapin Laser spokes non drive side, Wheelsmith double butted drive side, with alloy nipples. (Ergott built)

3. 32 hole 9spd D/A hubs, Black Open Pro rims, Revolutions spokes 2 cross front, 3 cross Revolution spokes non drive side, double butted drive side, with alloy nipples on all but drive side rear. (Excell built)

4. 32 hole 9spd D/A hubs, Silver Open Pro rims, Butted 3 cross front and rear, with alloy nipples. (Colorado Cyclist built)

I weigh 170lbs and have never had a problem.
Jeff

[swalburn]

Thanks for the info...I'm not too much of a weight weenie, but there is a set on weight weenies website that have the Dt 240 hub an DT 1.1 rim 32 spokes and it came in 1543 grams. I assumed the durace wheel would be in the same ball park.

Thanks again

[CNY rider]

Thanks for the info...I'm not too much of a weight weenie, but there is a set on weight weenies website that have the Dt 240 hub an DT 1.1 rim 32 spokes and it came in 1543 grams. I assumed the durace wheel would be in the same ball park.

Thanks again

I have almost the exact same set, built by Joe Young. He sent me a weight with them; I can't remember exactly but it was in that range.

I have 2 sets of wheels with DT 240s hubs and like them very much. I also have sets with DA hubs and Ultegra hubs, which are both excellent. You shouldn't feel like you are missing out if you decide to save the $125.

[marle]

Get fewer spokes in the front than the rear. For example, if you use 32 spoke rear wheel then get a 28 spoke front

[musgravecycles]

swalburn,

here's the dope yo. Get the Shimano hubs and use that extra $$ saved on the hubs to pay Joe Young, Eric, Jeremy, or one of several other "pro" wheel builders to build up the wheels.

Also I'd build them up with Velocity Fusions at your weight.

[musgravecycles]

2.0-1.8's with brass nipps, and Velocity rim plugs.

[Ken Robb]

I have 32 hole OPs on 6500, 6600 Ultegra and a set on Record and also Chorus.
No problems or clicks whatsoever.

I'm down to 200lbs from 215 and ride on crappy roads and I'm always fast downhill so they all must roll very well.

[Serotta PETE]

You weight is about the same as mine. The OPEN PRO 32 is fine with the brass niples (not alloy for they do not seem to last as long for me). As to Dura Ace vs DT hubs - - they both work. I have been unable to tell a difference in ride for me AND for 125 less I would go with DURA ACE (unless somewhere down the road I might want to convert to CAMPY and then the DT is easy to convert.)

I'm thinking about having a handbuilt wheelset built for me in the future. I'm looking at either the dura ace hubs or the DT Swiss 240 hub matched with either a mavic open pro rim or DT 1.1. The dura ace set up would be over 125 dollars cheaper. I'm 190 lbs and going 32 spokes in the front and back. I'm probably going to get them from Colorado Cyclist. I have mountain wheelset from them, and it has been bombproof.

I'm going through old threads, but haven't found much comparing these wheelsets. Are the DT Swiss Hubs worth more than 125 dollars over the Dura Ace hub. I'm really looking for a lot of bang for the buck, but was hoping to get something in the 1550 gram range. Will the dura ace wheels be substantially heavier.

I appreciate any insight I can get.

[jhcakilmer]

I have a set of DT Swiss 1450 wheels, and I love them!
240s Hubs
Aerolite spokes (28/28)
DT 1.1 rims

I bought them used with about 2000-2500 miles on them, and I've put 500-600 miles of hard riding on them. The only thing I would change is 1x or 2x in the front, I think it would improve the comfort a little more.

So far they are bomb proof, compliant, and reasonably comfortable.

I did have a handbuilt set of wheels with the Sapim CX-Ray spokes, which are comparable to the DT Aerolite spokes, and I thought they were great too....road for a year, and never had to true it. Some people might say these spokes are way to expensive, which is true, but I have had the best experience with them, and if I can afford it, will continue to use them! And at my weight 210-230lbs (seasonal..... ;) ) I've found they make a difference.

[Bradford]

Get the Shimano hubs and use that extra $$ saved on the hubs to pay Joe Young, Eric, Jeremy, or one of several other "pro" wheel builders to build up the wheels.
My thoughts exactly. I'm in the process of having a set of wheels built up with Jeremy. I told him what my needs were and let him decide the details. These guys know a heck of a lot more than I do about wheels, so it doesn't make sense for me to design mine.

I think it is worth the money to pay an expert to build your wheels instead of saving money with a mail order place. My experience with wheels has been:

-Pseudo hand builts (one from Excel, one unknown)---total disaster that didn't last
-hand builts from a leading LBS---one great wheel, one total disaster
-hand builts from master craftsman---great wheels

So, as you can imagine, I only go to one of the masters, it is worth every penny.

[swalburn]

I'm going to take a good look at some of these master builders you mention. The problem was that I was very uneducated about the subject. I had Colorado Cyclist build me a set of mountain bike wheels, and overall I've been extremley satisfied. But, I'm also checking Joe Young's site right now as a matter of fact. I really appreciate everyone's input.

[dekindy]

I have 32 hole OPs on 6500, 6600 Ultegra and a set on Record and also Chorus.
No problems or clicks whatsoever.

I'm down to 200lbs from 215 and ride on crappy roads and I'm always fast downhill so they all must roll very well.

That is what I used to think also. In reality, I believe it is our extra weight, not the superiority of our equipment. It's the dying truth!

[shanerpvt]

Where is Ergott? I always enjoy his enlightening posts about all things wheel related.

[shaq-d]

I have Open Pros and they are nice wheels but after a while you start to hear an annoying "tick" when the wheel is spinning. I think my next wheels may be Velocitys.

i don't have this prob and have had open pros for years now. u might wanna lube up/wd-40 the spoke nipples?

sd

[musgravecycles]

I too suffered the dreaded 'OP tick.' Spoke with Mavic at length about it, apparently the little piece of Al that holds the seam together while it's flash welded sometimes has a tendancy to come loose inside the rim after a big hit. The process was changed several years ago, supposed to be cured...

For the most part I've moved on to Velocity or Ambrosio and couldn't be happier...

[merckx]

I too suffered the dreaded 'OP tick.' Spoke with Mavic at length about it, apparently the little piece of Al that holds the seam together while it's flash welded sometimes has a tendancy to come loose inside the rim after a big hit. The process was changed several years ago, supposed to be cured...

For the most part I've moved on to Velocity or Ambrosio and couldn't be happier...

I am most certain that the click is not the result of the seam weld. If you grab a quad of spokes ( two in each hand and squeeze like you are stress-relieving), you will re-create the "click". The clicking sound comes from the furrells. That is why sometimes you can remedy the problem with a drop of oil in the nipple/furrel
area.

[musgravecycles]

OP's do have a tendency to loosen ferrules. This was a separate problem.

Mavic had me punch the dimples on either side of the seam a bit deeper (basically trapping the little guy in place) and wallah the problem went away...

[Vancouverdave]

Lifer mechanic's view on hubs here: I have seen almost no genuine failures of any Shimano hub--like two cracked flanges in 35 years of bike work, covering the range from Dura-Ace down to department store cheapos. Shimano hubs, like other free bearing hubs, will fail internally if you skip maintainance...................on the other hand, and having seen many fewer Hugi/DT hubs total, they seem to have had a lot of failures. Since they came on the scene in the early 1990s they have noticeable numbers of cracked bodies (mostly in the designs made for Rolf wheels,) a few cracked ratchets, and a noise like a Chris King hub amplified--well, maybe that's coasting prevention! I'd go Dura Ace, King, or White Industries.