Building a fixie

[shinomaster]

I have always wanted a cute single speed bike for riding around town. This goes way back to to when I was in art school--when all the cool kids were riding fixed gears around Boston.
I have a beautiful, old beat up Tommasini road frame with a chrome fork and 126mm spacing in the back. It has adjustable drop outs. I have all of the obvious parts, like a post stem saddle and a set of cheap track wheels on the way from e-bay with a flip flop formula rear hub. I'm wondering if I can use the 2003 chorus road cranks I have. I hate the look of having the ring on the inside of the spider. How do you figure out the chain line? I know the wheels will have to be spaced out a bit. I know nothing about track cranks and BB's. How are they different from road cranks? What kind of chain do I use? Do I need a single speen chain ring? I want a basket on the front too..Help I don't know anything. Chrisroph can I use your garage?

[Louis]

John,

Be sure to post pics when you're done ;)

[weaponsgrade]

Here's how I check chain line. Screw the track cog on and put the rear wheel in. Take a long straight edge, like a yard stick and slide it up against the side of the cog. See where the other end of the yard stick ends on your crank rings. It should be within a millimeter or two.

[sbornia]

What kind of chain do I use? Do I need a single speen chain ring? I want a basket on the front too..Help I don't know anything. Chrisroph can I use your garage?

My 2 cents, hopefully not with any glaring errors:

If you use your old road crank, you'll have to determine if the inner or outer ring placement will give the best chain line. Checking with a straight edge per the suggestion above should make that clear.

You definitely need a chainring without any ramps or pins, which are used for shifting. Track/SS rings are available in different BCDs for different cranks, so you'll have to check that of course to match your crank. And track rings (and chains) come in two different standards (widths?): 3/32" (typical road/mtb) and 1/8". I believe that you need to match the chainring, chain, and cog so that the drivetrain works properly. (I suppose you could use a 1/8" chain on the smaller 3/32" ring or cogs, but it might have some negative side-effects.)

For the chain, you can probably use a single speed chain from Wipperman or SRAM. Not sure of the model numbers.

[shinomaster]

Why cant you use a regular ring up front?

[Marburg]

For maximum safety, you don't want any parts in your drivetrain which are designed to "drop" the chain. This includes chainrings with cutouts to drop to a lower rings (outers for doubles and outer/middles for triples), chains that have been beveled or relieved (9- and 10-spd?), or loose cogs from multi-speed cassettes.

Why? If you get the chainline off by even a little bit, your chain might try to "shift" maybe when you're torquing the frame a little bit on a big climb. Believe me, having your chain shift on a fixie is muy bad.

Start off cheap. Use whatever cranks you can get. Get cheap SS ring (does Salsa make 135BCD?). If your proper chainline is on he inside, get one of those dope Salsa "Crossing Guard" chain guards.

Oh, to answer other question. Track cranks == typically lower profile/lower Q-factor. Real track equipment is 144BCD, though you can find 130 and 135 'single speed" cranks. Track BBs are often built for lower resistance at the expense of being less sealed to the elements. In short, until you decide you need one (for the bling), just run what you've got.


Oh, and don't stress about the rear spacing. Steel frame = more than enough spring to take up that 6mm difference. I ran a track 120mm rear in a 135mm frame forever with no ill effects.

[shinomaster]

yeah I do want it to be safe...that makes sense. No face-plants for me.

[bironi]

Shino,

I've been on mine for nearly a year. I defaulted to what our local frame builder and racer of many years put together on a Medici frame and fork I bought here on the forum. If I were to start from scratch on a new fixie, I would have no problem with the frame and fork. I would go with the most bulletproof setup for gear. I currently use Campy quick releases, but would go with something designed for a track rear wheel for security reasons. I would also opt for 1/8 track style cogs, chainrings, and chain for the same reason. I would go for some low maintenance hubs due to our shared PNW winter weather. Make sure you have room for fenders with Michelin 25's. I have a front brake, but only use it as an emergency bailout.

When you get it together, and start riding, be sure to futz with every little comfort adjustment you can make. You will find that it is much more important to get the fixed gear dialed just right, than it is on your geared bikes.

You'll love it. Post a ride report and some pics when the time comes.

Byron

[SoCalSteve]

Shino,

I've been on mine for nearly a year. I defaulted to what our local frame builder and racer of many years put together on a Medici frame and fork I bought here on the forum. If I were to start from scratch on a new fixie, I would have no problem with the frame and fork. I would go with the most bulletproof setup for gear. I currently use Campy quick releases, but would go with something designed for a track rear wheel for security reasons. I would also opt for 1/8 track style cogs, chainrings, and chain for the same reason. I would go for some low maintenance hubs due to our shared PNW winter weather. Make sure you have room for fenders with Michelin 25's. I have a front brake, but only use it as an emergency bailout.

When you get it together, and start riding, be sure to futz with every little comfort adjustment you can make. You will find that it is much more important to get the fixed gear dialed just right, than it is on your geared bikes.
You'll love it. Post a ride report and some pics when the time comes.

Byron

I'm curious to know why its (comfort adjustment) more critical on a fixed gear over a multi gear bike.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[hypnos]

I have a new/hardly used EAI 16 and/or 17 tooth cogs, 3/16 inch. Also a very slightly used SRAM 9 speed chain, top shelf model. These would mate perfectly with your 3/16 inch road chairings. They have spent some time in the parts box, as they are way too gooa to throw away. I'll let them go cheep.

Jeff

[bironi]

I'm curious to know why its (comfort adjustment) more critical on a fixed gear over a multi gear bike.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Steve,

The reason comfort and fit are even more important than on the geared bike, is that you are stuck with one position for much longer periods. You are on the saddle except when the terrain allows you to stand. There is no rest position to stretch your body on descents. You need to be comfortable grinding up a hill when you would normally shift to a faster cadence with gears, and you need to spin like hell on a steep descent.

I am not saying that dialing in a geared bike is not important, but you will pay a higher price for a fixie that is not just right.

Byron

[SoCalSteve]

Steve,

The reason comfort and fit are even more important than on the geared bike, is that you are stuck with one position for much longer periods. You are on the saddle except when the terrain allows you to stand. There is no rest position to stretch your body on descents. You need to be comfortable grinding up a hill when you would normally shift to a faster cadence with gears, and you need to spin like hell on a steep descent.

I am not saying that dialing in a geared bike is not important, but you will pay a higher price for a fixie that is not just right.

Byron

I had a feeling thats what you were going to say, just checkin'

Thanks,

Steve

[chrisroph]

Chrisroph can I use your garage?


Sure,I'll help you with the build, its not that hard. Do you know if your wheels come with a cog? If so, is it 3/32 or 1/8? If you don't know we can figure it out when it arrives.

[RIHans]

I built up an older Itala Pro ('73-ish...no braise-ons at all...columbus tubes...straight as hell) and the people at Harris Cycley sent me the correct parts via UPS, pronto. The website is ...sheldonbrown.com/harris.
Check out the site...lots of info regarding fixies, chain-line, special chainwheel bolts ( I needed), and much more.
Hey, enjoy...I love my fixie...We all should learn to ride one! Hans

[Dekonick]

+1 on sheldon brown

I used an ultegra crank with the ultegra 39 ring in front with no issues. Just make sure you get the chain line right. I did use the larger chain. Now I have switched to all 1/8" gear - no real difference except I feel better about it.

Given a choice, go buy a single speed crank. They are reasonable at the harris bike shop - again - search sheldon brown for lots of information.

It is a blast! You won't go back.

Dek

[Ray]

Steve,

The reason comfort and fit are even more important than on the geared bike, is that you are stuck with one position for much longer periods. You are on the saddle except when the terrain allows you to stand. There is no rest position to stretch your body on descents. You need to be comfortable grinding up a hill when you would normally shift to a faster cadence with gears, and you need to spin like hell on a steep descent.

I am not saying that dialing in a geared bike is not important, but you will pay a higher price for a fixie that is not just right.

Byron
The other side of this point is that MOST people don't ride fixies as far/long as geared bikes, so its easier to ignore a slightly less comfortable position. If you're one of those folks who regularly does metrics and centuries on the fixie, this doesn't apply to you and the point made above is right on. I rarely ride the fixie more than about 30 miles, almost never more than 40-45. And I find that I need a slightly more aggressive position to keep the spin going strong. Which is actually a less comfortable position for me, but I don't mind for the couple of hours I usually spend on these rides. I also live in a hilly enough area that I frequently have opportunities to stand and stretch on a climb, so that helps me deal with the slightly less comfortable position.

-Ray

[Andreas]

I also live in a hilly enough area that I frequently have opportunities to stand and stretch on a climb, so that helps me deal with the slightly less comfortable position.

-Ray

All the points made are right on.
I ride my fixie long distances (centuries plus) and it is made for that, not track [Quickbeam]. Stretching while riding is something to be learned on a fixie. I also live in a very hilly area so it is easier here to stretch. Climbing is about 10k feet per 30-40 miles of riding so there are plenty of opportunities.

Stretching while doing 140rpms is hard.

[pdxmech13]

sino..........

don't bye into these fads
i know you don't ware yur ball cap backwards

[fierte_poser]

So what is the recommended crankset if I don't have an old road crankset to scavenge...

Sugino 75
Sugino XD
Sugino RD
White Industries Eno
Truvativ ISO Flow
Miche

Thoughts? Cost is not the most important factor...its going on a nice framset.

Rear wheel/hub will be a White ENO flip-flop.

Thanks,
Kent

[SoCalSteve]

So what is the recommended crankset if I don't have an old road crankset to scavenge...

Sugino 75
Sugino XD
Sugino RD
White Industries Eno
Truvativ ISO Flow
Miche

Thoughts? Cost is not the most important factor...its going on a nice framset.

Rear wheel/hub will be a White ENO flip-flop.
Thanks,
Kent

I have a brand new one in a box for sale...32 hole, if you need one. Conact me...Local399@aol.com or PM me...

[chuckred]

All the points made are right on.
Climbing is about 10k feet per 30-40 miles of riding so there are plenty of opportunities.



We average about 1000 feet of climbing per 10 miles (assuming same start/finish elevation) from what I can tell... That puts you in an area with almost 3x's the climbing as Colorado!