Compact doubles

[eddief]

Seriously considering putting a compact double on next build. Would I be naive not to be concerned about getting used to this setup after riding triples for a few years? Are the logistics of when and how often you shift gears on a compact double worlds apart from those of a triple. I've printed out the gear charts for both and I can "read" what is going to be happening, but reading ain't real life riding and I wonder if my brain and body will freak when they try grock a compact double. I find the topic quite interesting. And by now we know I'm not the racer type who wrote the following description of his compact double experience.

From a rider who was selling an FSA compact double on ebay------

First, I should preface that I was looking for something to get up hills better in the off-season and for an upcoming trip to Europe. My weight is normally 185 or so and I have put on 15# - I am 6'/48yo/cat3/40+. I used several calculators to look into gear inches and found that with a 12/25 (I use campy) I could match a low of a 29, high of a 13 and still keep close to 90" for tempo work or 21.5 paceline. Got the cranks and ti isis bb from a friend and put in on in total excitement. First thing I noticed was my knees were hurting on the inside. I use speedplays, 1cm of cleat
>adjustment; mine were set in the middle. Did not think I was sensitive to Q factor - wrong. Campy cranks are 147, fsa 150 - adjusted the cleat in 2.5mm and no pain. Climbed latigo, moderate, 10 miles or so - noticed very little change, was not able to spin the 34/25. Revelation is climbing is more weight related than gearing, which I rather knew all along, but not to what extent. I did like the 34/23, almost a 27. Tons more shifting - when you hit 19-20 in the 34/12 and go big-ring you have to shift up 3-4 cogs to match speed. But the real shock was when I did a fast morning club ride - 25+ - I completely lost all the ratios that I came accustomed to - everything from the 12-16 was .5 to 2" different - tons more shifting with few results. I had either a high hr from spinning or muscle fatigue from pushing. I could not find any gear I felt comfortable in. If everyone is using a 53 in a fast ride or crit, you will notice the difference. It is not a matter of spinning more or pushing more, its ratio comfort. I could not wait to get rid of this thing. No moral to the story, if you ride alone or are not sensitive to these things then good for you.

[H.Frank Beshear]

I just finished my waterford frame with a T-A 48-34 double and if the weather gets above 30 I am going for a little spin to test it. I have ridden a triple for the last 6 years and wondered the same thing. The numbers look good the bike looks fantastic and I dont make a habit of riding 25mph+ so the fast group wont be a big issue:p . I will let you know how it works out its supposed to be in the 50's over the weekend so if today doesn't work its not a big deal. Take care Frank

[Cranstone]

I recently switched to a FSA compact 50/34 with a 11/27 campy compatible from Wheels Manufacturing on the rear. It gives me 90+% of everything I had with a triple but with an additional weight savings. To me this is the ultimate set up. In the winter I ride a 13/29 on the rear but in a recent hard ride found the same problem as EddieF that I was constantly switching gears and never in the right one – in fact to stay competitive I had to remain in the big ring going up small inclines. The 11/27 on the rear removes this problem (at least for me). Remember a 50/11 is a higher gear than a 53/12 and provides you the extra oomph you need while at the low end the 34/27 will get you up most anything in CO.

All the best

Peter

[victoryfactory]

After riding the traditional 52/39 double for years, I put the FSA 50/34 on my Atlanta. Yeah, it's different. But thats the feeling I get whenever I change gearing, be it chainrings or cassette.

If you ride the new setup long enough, you will get used to the new gearing, you will find gear combos that work. then when you switch back, the old setup will feel strange.

The main thing to watch is if you have a "crusing" gear that you use much of the time on the flats, you may need to find that gear on a different chain ring after the switch.

If you are super finely tuned, or a pro who needs a specific speed vs rpm setup, you might be dissappointed, but coming from a triple, you have already been dealing with lots of gears.

Finally, I've found the FSA is a good replacement for a triple (which I never liked) especially if you use a 12/27 cassette.

VictoryFactory