Need a little stem help

[regularguy412]

OK, here's the deal. I recently stripped down my 25th anniversary SCI 56 cm w/ the original F1 carbon fork (steel steerer). I've sent it back to Saratoga Springs for some minor repair (the rear brake cable bosses that hold the ends of the housing were slightly rusted and needd to be replaced). It's also getting a full repaint.

In the process of assessing the condition of the frame and fork, techs at Serotta determined that one of the dropouts on the F1 fork was a little loose. So I am getting a replacement Reynolds Ouzo carbon fork w/ carbon steerer.
Which is GREAT!, but it necessitates that I now replace my headset and change stems.

I'll be getting a Chris King headset. That part is a no-brainer. However, I still need to replace the Cinelli Grammo Ti quill stem. I had been running the Cinelli right down on top of the lock nut, albeit, I had never cut the steel steerer down and had about 1" of spacer between the adjuster and the lock nut.

So my dilemma is this: It appears that most 'all' of the 'new' style Ahead stems do not have the same rise(drop) as the older, quill-type stems. The Cinelli quill was approximately 17 degree drop, 12 cm reach ,, such that it was basically horizontal to the ground when installed (given a 73 degree head tube angle). Since I've never owned an Ahead style steerer/ stem combo before, what is the best way to determine how to get the bar at the same height below the saddle and reach as it was before (using the old fork/steerer/ headset/ stem combo?

I'd still like to use my Cinelli Eubios 42cm bars that have been on the bike. The bar takes a 26.0 clamp. It appears there are very few 26.0 clamp stems that are also available for a 1" carbon steerer AND have the appropriate rise(drop).

Is it possible that the new, carbon steerer/ headset will be so 'low' compared to my previous combination that a new , Ahead-style stem will actually 'need' some rise in order to get the bar to the same place that it was when I was using the old setup?

Thanks for any help on this you can provide. I'd also appreciate any suggestions for brands of stems for this application. It would be nice to have something kinda shiny (like the Cinelli Ti quill that was previously on there) but it's not critical.

THanks again,

Mike in Arkansas

[Bill Bove]

I have a Cinelli Grammo stem in 1" threadless, but I think it may be a 13. Let me know if you're interested. I also have a 12 in 1 1/8 but i may use it again so you'd have to make it a sweet offer :beer: fd

[Marcusaurelius]

Ritchey makes a road stem in -17 angle and most come with the adapter to use it with a 1" threadless fork. I am not sure if the 1" ouzo pro will be as stiff as the F1 fork (steel versus carbon).

I tried a 1" threadless carbon fork and found it a little too flexy but it wasn't a reynolds ouzo pro.

[regularguy412]

I have a Cinelli Grammo stem in 1" threadless, but I think it may be a 13. Let me know if you're interested. I also have a 12 in 1 1/8 but i may use it again so you'd have to make it a sweet offer :beer: fd

Thanks for the input, Bill. I think a 13 might be a little too long. I'll just have to check it out when I get things put together.

Mike

[regularguy412]

Ritchey makes a road stem in -17 angle and most come with the adapter to use it with a 1" threadless fork. I am not sure if the 1" ouzo pro will be as stiff as the F1 fork (steel versus carbon).

I tried a 1" threadless carbon fork and found it a little too flexy but it wasn't a reynolds ouzo pro.

I've always had steel steerers, too,, even on aluminium forks. I'll be interested to see how carbon compares. I'll take a look at the Ritchey stems.

Thanks,
Mike

[RPS]

So my dilemma is this: It appears that most 'all' of the 'new' style Ahead stems do not have the same rise(drop) as the older, quill-type stems. The Cinelli quill was approximately 17 degree drop, 12 cm reach ,, such that it was basically horizontal to the ground when installed (given a 73 degree head tube angle). Since I've never owned an Ahead style steerer/ stem combo before, what is the best way to determine how to get the bar at the same height below the saddle and reach as it was before (using the old fork/steerer/ headset/ stem combo?Mike, I won’t say it’s the best way, but a very simple way for me to work with this exact problem is to use the equivalent horizontal length of stems measured along a horizontal line from the bars to the steering axis – which we know are fixed points provided you plan on keeping the bars at the same location.

For the bars to end up at the same exact point, you will need a stem with the same 12 CM extension measured along the horizontal.

The simplest way I know is to use a 12 CM at -17 degrees if that can give you the right elevation without too many spacers. If you go to a -10, -6, or 0 degree by 12 CM stem, the respective equivalent reach will be 12.35 CM; 12.48 CM, or 12.55 CM (you’ll end up with about an extra ½-CM of reach).

IMO, the bottom line is that unless a -17 degree X 12 CM works for you (and it wouldn’t if it were mine because I’d want fewer spacers), you would need an 11.5 CM stem to duplicate the position more closely (although a ½ CM wouldn’t bother me personally).

[regularguy412]

Thanks to all that provided input. I think I've landed on a stem that I can live with. Does anyone have any experience/ opinion on Oval Technologies R700 aluminum stem? It seems to have a novel design, is available in -17 degree and -6 degree versions and either the 31.8 or 26.0 diameter bar clamp.

Thanks,
Mike in AR

[cadence90]

I was going to suggest the stem you just found: Oval Concepts (not Oval Technologies). They are excellent.

[cs124]

I was going to suggest the stem you just found: Oval Concepts (not Oval Technologies). They are excellent.

I like mine too. Good solid gear.