Campy bottom bracket corrosion

[shinomaster]

When this thing came out of my steel frame it had this MP pitting. It looks like alien acid was dropped on the thing. Is it safe to put back in the frame? Should I wrap the threads with teflon tape? Is this normal?

love,

me

[Serotta PETE]

That is a question for SPOKES>>>I have had many of them like that and they seem to "get lost" before I can say put them back in.

I have had POOR luck with CAMPY RECORD BBs

[chuckred]

That's ugly and scary looking... not that I know for sure, but I'd be afraid it would play havoc on the threads and would relegate it to paper weight status. Now I want to go look at mine!

[chrisroph]

Never seen such pitting before. I've had more than one campy bb fail from water intrusion but I've never seen that kind of etching into the alloy cups. If the spindle spins smoothly and without wobble, I'd probably grease it up real well and put it back in. I'd also start saving for a new bb. You will find available for free if you ask in the right circles campy bb cups because they usually outlast the bearing/spindle assembly.

BTW, you need my fork. :banana:

[shinomaster]

It screws in just fine. It is an older frame...and it ate my alloy chorus post the exact same way. If i put a new BB in I bet the same thing would happen over time. This thing has a lot of miles left in it.

[stevep]

interesting question is if these areas are at the bottom when threaded into the frame...
thereby being the location toward which water may drain and is likely to sit.
mark the outside of the cup shino when you put them back in and see.
bet its true.
i would probably reuse it if it was me but the next time i would buy a shimano one.

dagger to macclean....

[chrisroph]

interesting question is if these areas are at the bottom when threaded into the frame...
thereby being the location toward which water may drain and is likely to sit.
mark the outside of the cup shino when you put them back in and see.
bet its true.
i would probably reuse it if it was me but the next time i would buy a shimano one.

dagger to macclean....

I'd reuse it too with lots of grease but water shouldn't corrode alloy like that. Did you pour straight simple green down your seattube? Doesn't it take a strong acid to etch aluminum that badly?

[shinomaster]

I think it was corrosive crap left in frame from it's brazed construction. Not water. Never used simple green.

[A.L.Breguet]

I think it was corrosive crap left in frame from it's brazed construction. Not water. Never used simple green.
You might be on to something there.
Perhaps there is some sort of grease or something that will neutralize what appears to be a chenical reaction of some sort.

[thwart]

Certainly no expert here but I've seen trainer sweat do some very nasty things---although that looks very focal, the rest of the BB almost looks mint.

[ada@prorider.or]

well it could
i would use copper paste to fit it again to lower the surface tension

[AgilisMerlin]

i have a shimano bb. in my merlin, and it is about 3 years old. last year when i pulled it their was the exact kind of pitted corrosion, that started to eat away the threads.

i just cleaned it and put it back in.

my theory.............ti to alum. reacts with eachother in weird ways sometimes.


amerliN

[SPOKE]

i've removed several of the Campy BB's from my bikes and Pete's bikes that have cups that were "eaten up" by some kind of corrosive type of reaction. the only time i have seen this is when the BB is in a Ti frame or BB shell. my guess as to a reason is the fact that Ti and Aluminum when sprinkled with a bit of water or sports drink causes a glavanic reaction. Campy tried to minimize the possibility of this happening by annodizing the BB cups but the annodized coating gets rubbed off when installed so you get the Ti on aluminum contact which allows the chemical reaction to occur once water of sports drink is added. i've seen this same thing happen on Ti frames with clamp-on front derailleurs. the clamp really gets eaten up if you don't take the time to wipe this area down real good on occassion.

as for the BB cup in the pics, take my advice and replace them. replacement cups are available. you LBS can order them from QBP, Hawley or any number of other parts distributors. when installing the new ones in the frame be sure to apply a liberal amount of copper based anti-seize compound. also, don't over torque the fixed (drive side) cup. too much torque will crack/brake the flange on the cup.
good luck!

[vaxn8r]

I second the sports drink/sweat/moisture crapola.

If it were me I'd put an Ultegra in next time. Don't worry, we wont tell anyone.

[sspielman]

I wouldn't re-use it...just because it is a major PITA to get a stuck one removed....and the crummier the condition the threads, the greater the likelihood of sticking. The next time you put a BB in, try using ANTI_SEIZE COMPOUND instead of grease. It does a much better job at preventing this sort of thread/thread galling. You don't need a thick coating, but make sure all of the threads are covered...on both surfaces....

[Serotta PETE]

and it will work as good, if not better....BB Dave is making upi some nice yellow and black decals to cover the bad bad word = = SHIXXXO

I second the sports drink/sweat/moisture crapola.

If it were me I'd put an Ultegra in next time. Don't worry, we wont tell anyone.

[ada@prorider.or]

my theory.............ti to alum. reacts with eachother in weird ways sometimes.

amerliN

weird?


no that normal since the suface tension goes from higher to lower
that way you got a surfcace tension ,any body in the mechanics now this i gues.............

[shinomaster]

My frame was steel...is that normal with steel?

[pale scotsman]

Maybe it's the cups that suck. I've got one that looks like that after a year in my Legend Ti. I even used ti prep, but that bike did see it's share of rain. Another one in a steel bike had the same problem, though not quite as bad. I'll buy a phil next time w/ the ss cups.

[ada@prorider.or]

My frame was steel...is that normal with steel?
that depands or there was still liguid in side
and i guess not assembled with the right grease
some time´s wrong grease can make things worse depands on its additive´s

[Grant McLean]

Brush on lots of this stuff into the threads, and you'll never have a problem.
Some people do put some on, but not nearly enough. It goes on like peanut
butter, spread it on there.

(edit:)
Many kinds of grease sucks for threads. Some have additives that make them
very slippery, and lots of the modern slick greases are not very water resistant.
Be careful to choose a grease that is waterproof, and not just a great
bearing lubricant, because it won't necessarily make a great thread prep.



g

[ada@prorider.or]

[QUOTEGrease sucks. It's slippery, and lots of the modern greases are not very
water resistant. Grease is a great bearing lubricant, but not a great thread prep.
[/QUOTE]

meaby it a languege problem but there lot of grease specialy water resistance lots of cross people used here specialy with high pressure cleaning
there are also gerase even salt water resistance

remember grease = oil on soap basis


what you show in anti seize is copper oil on a soap basis
and some other additive´s
,as far i know in dutch its called copper pasta
and used a lot
apart from ingridiants it stays a grease

meaby i good advise shell make a very good book on oils and grease with good explanation whyat each purpose of oil and grease is

one off the most used grease and oil in all kind of form is
ensis oil +grease hence they even use it to water resistance in ships and engine.s

[Grant McLean]

meaby it a languege problem but there lot of grease specialy water resistance lots of cross people used here specialy with high pressure cleaning
there are also gerase even salt water resistance


hi cees,

i really just mean that many of the grease formuations that people have at
home for use in bearings don't work well for prep for threads. The finish
line grease, that is popular here, has teflon, and washes right out easily with
water. yes, there are many greases that are very resistant to water,
but cyclists aren't likely to have a tube of that stuff at home in their toolbox.
My main point is to use a proper product for the job of thread prep, instead
of just some bearing grease that you might already have laying around.

g

[ada@prorider.or]

completely understand

(by the way i want to see if you ever able to wipe our teflon on a subject)
i have to do very complected things to do this,but aside more on the tech side
of it)

[BumbleBeeDave]

That looks awful! Have you checked the inside of your bottom bracket shell on the frame to see what those threads look like? I hope your frame isn't also corroded like that.

BTW, if you put the Shimano BB in, zip and e-mail to Pedro's and they will send you some stickers! ;)

BBD

[labratmatt]

I purchased a used Chours bottom bracket (at a good price, so I wasn't expecting it to be perfect) and it had/has some of the same corrosion and pitting. No idea what causes it. I personally woulnd't have a problem using it.

[AgilisMerlin]

my damaged ultegra b.b. went back in, just like new.

the pitting and corrosion is negative in volume in its damage, so the rethreading is not a problem. :D



amerliN