What's your chain cleaning routine?

[reconstyle]

I normally use the park tool chain scrubber, but unfortunately it fell off my workbench and cracked in half.

That's the only chain scrubber I've ever used, but before I buy another one I was wondering if there's something better on the market.

Also, what's everyones thought on this chain lift thing? I was using the park dummy hub on my QR axle bike, but I've switched thru axles now.

https://chainlift.com/

[dbnm]

I think the Pedro's Pig or whatever it's called is better than the Park.

I used some WD-40 bike degreaser and simple green.

Then rinse and lube.

About once a week or 100+ miles.

[eddief]

quick link and real cleaning...then NFS.

some form of doing this is what i do. i learned this when i was waxing but then became NFS disciple:

https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/clean-your-chain

[johnniecakes]

A couple of rags soaked with gas. Hand held around the chain while pedaling applying pressure in different directions. Keep going repositioning the rags a few times until it's clean. Run it through a dry rag and let it air dry a few hours, apply NFS.

[Louis]

This may be heresy, but the only times I bother to "officially" clean my chains (that is, use the machine intended for that purpose, with the chain still on the bike) is after particularly wet or dusty rides. (Which isn't that often)

Other than that, I just add more lube (ProLink) when things get a bit loud and wipe of the excess. (which IMO does a fairly decent job of cleaning things) I also wipe off the chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. Things seem to last just as long as when I used my Park chain scrubber machine on a more regular basis.

[reconstyle]

quick link and real cleaning...then NFS.

some form of doing this is what i do. i learned this when i was waxing but then became NFS disciple:

https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/clean-your-chain

What does NFS mean?

This may be heresy, but the only times I bother to "officially" clean my chains (that is, use the machine intended for that purpose, with the chain still on the bike) is after particularly wet or dusty rides. (Which isn't that often)

Other than that, I just add more lube (ProLink) when things get a bit loud and wipe of the excess. (which IMO does a fairly decent job of cleaning things) I also wipe off the chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. Things seem to last just as long as when I used my Park chain scrubber machine on a more regular basis.

Unfortunately, being in Central Florida, I encounter wet roads more frequently that I'd like.

[Matthew]

I do the same as Louis. Apply lube, run the chain through a rag a few rotations, clean pulleys and rings if needed. Usually cleans cassette cogs too. Seems to work well for me but I try to avoid rain, gravel,etc.

[sw3759]

What does NFS mean?


nixfrixshun lube...has developed quite a following here and across the hall

http://nixfrixshun.com/nixfrixshun-ultimate-bicycle-chainlube/

[fkslksj]

I ride pretty much exclusively in the dry, other than the very off chance I'm riding after a recent rain. Frequency is every 100ish miles

I use kerosene as my degreaser, same as I use on my motorcycle chain. Watched a video a while back by Revzilla where they said it was a rather mild solvent that breaks down grease well.

Spray down the entire chain, use three sided chain brush to agitate dirt, spray down with kerosene, and wipe off what comes out with a rag. (Then I repeat this step once or twice depending on dirt level)

Do this same process for cassette using cassette brush and chainrings using single sided brush.

By this point everything is usually bright and shiny, and I'll do a final wipe down with the rag to dry up any excess kerosene that may have been left, and lube the chain, wipe off excess lube, and finally quick ride to run through all the gears. I'm not sure if that last part does anything but I love the feel of a freshly cleaned chain :)

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

[smead]

Fresh Dumonde Lite about every 400 miles. It dries out after that, and with a clean rag I just wipe down the chain and it comes out clean enough. Clean the pulleys and cassette and big ring, relube and go. Easy peasy, no mess, no harsh cleaners.

[eddief]

running a cleaned chain through a clean rag and having no black come off. really makes me feel great the next time i get on the bike. psych speed is what i call it. same feeling as four new tires on the car, but way cheaper.

[ScottW]

Another NFS user here. So glad I learned about that stuff here on PL. In normal clean/dry road use it will go a couple hundred miles easily without needing to add more.
When chain gets too dirty lookin, just wipe it down with a rag until most of the black stuff comes off (jockey wheels too), apply more NFS and wipe off the excess, good to go another couple hundred miles.

For any deeper cleaning I take the chain off the bike (master link) and put it in a jar with some gasoline, shake it around, pull it out, wipe it down and hang to dry, put it back on the bike and then re-lube with NFS.

[joosttx]

1) remove
2) sonic clean 30minutes
3) Molten wax

[Louis]

Usually cleans cassette cogs too.

I forgot to mention that after I lube the chain I also clean the cassette by folding up a paper towel a few times, stick it between each of the cogs and backpedal a bit to remove the bulk of the collected gunk.

[kppolich]

Spray rag with degreaser
Wipe chain, flip rag til clean
Let dry
Lube

[kiwisimon]

Spray rag with degreaser
Wipe chain, flip rag til clean
Let dry
Lube

I take it off every 6 weeks or so, kerosine soak, rinse, dry, hot wax.

[54ny77]

Park Tool chain cleaner tool. I ran outta their orange-smelling degreaser and on a whim ordered this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-Original-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000EALHHG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Oil+Eater+Original&qid=1599795037&s=automotive&sr=1-1

The stuff rocks, and its only 9 bucks a GALLON. It's as good if not better than the Park stuff. And it's concentrated, so you can stretch it even more.

[SlowPokePete]

I drip WD40 from an old Rock n Roll bottle, really soak the chain til it drips, backpedal a bunch of times, wipe thoroughly with paper towel. Then wipe throughly with clean rag (old t-shirts). Screwdriver to the inner and outer sides of the jockey pulley's to avoid having a rear derailleur looking like the one Angry posted a while back.

I like using a couple of pipe cleaners (retired Kindergarten teacher...wonder where all those came from) to get in between the cogs. Spin rear wheel backwards and floss. Wipe again with clean rag.

Usually I let it sit overnight, then apply NFS sparingly, back pedal like 100 revolutions to distribute, and wipe clean with cloth rag.

Every once in a while I will fold a pipe cleaner over and use it to loosen up the gunk in between each link. When I do this, I usually repeat the WD40 on the whole chain, wipe clean again, then NFS.

and I never hose my bike with water.

SPP

[weisan]

Now that's what I call...the Ultimate Spa Treatment.

[happycampyer]

quick link and real cleaning...then NFS.

some form of doing this is what i do. i learned this when i was waxing but then became NFS disciple:

https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/clean-your-chainI love how they recommend that one perform this 12-step cleaning ritual with a new chain. Obviously, any oil residue needs to be removed from the chain before wax can be applied, but that's a lot of work to prep a brand new chain...

[smontanaro]

This may be heresy, but the only times I bother to "officially" clean my chains (that is, use the machine intended for that purpose, with the chain still on the bike) is after particularly wet or dusty rides. (Which isn't that often)

This. I've been up to the vacation home in SW Michigan a few times this summer and have managed to take a bike each time. There's a half-mile+ of dirt to get to the highway (ongoing tree work after a storm in June felled a lot of trees and made the fire lane worse than usual), and I'll often be riding along on some rural road when it will turn from paved to dirt/gravel for a mile or so.

I notice the sluggish shifting pretty quickly (old Cyclone GT rear derailleur with SRAM 8sp chain on my Eisentraut Limited), so I've used my chain cleaner several times already this year. The silver lining is that my chain is generally cleaner overall and the bike gets a bit more attention with a rag, so it looks a bit better too. :)

My chain cleaner is nothing to write home about, a cheaper version of the Park tool (which I destroyed a few years ago thinking I'd clean *it* in my ultrasonic cleaner - don't do that kids)...

[oldpotatoe]

Once per month I take chain off(KMC quick link, second time off, Campag chain), chainrings off, pulleys off, cogset off..clean all..Simple green and hot water, scrub..wipe off, let dry, back on, lube, whatever is handy..NFS, WD-4 LUBE, little Boeshield.

Between that, some WD-4 on a rag, run chain thru it.

[OtayBW]

Wipe clean after every ride. That keeps the plates shiny. I can go a LONG way with essentially zero drivetrain noise and great shifting, so I don't go all bull honky on it unless it needs it....:eek:

[Ralph]

I just use it a while, and run it thru my hand a few times, add a couple drops every other ride, etc. When it gets real dirty, just replace it. KMC's at $20 each, not worth it to me to make this complicated.

[biker72]

I've been using WD40 as a degreaser. All 3 of my bike have quick links so I'm considering just removing the chain and soak in mineral spirits. Then after drying with a rag applying Rock N Roll Gold. The cassette gets cleaned every time the chain does.

[weiwentg]

Currently, I'm on Silca's drip wax, and I was on NFS's biodegradable lube before that. With a new chain, I'd degrease it off the bike in repeated solvent baths, then apply lube. After that, I just wiped the chain and pulleys off every ride, then re-lubed every about 200 miles. I clean the chain off the bike irregularly, basically after a few months, and usually after a wet or dirty ride.

With Silca's drip wax, Josh recommended that if you want to clean the chain, you just swish it in boiling water, much like you would for molten wax - it basically melts the dried wax off. The wax doesn't really respond to standard solvents. With this wax, the pulleys tend to be pretty clean, so I haven't needed to clean them off the bike when I take the chain off. With NFS, I'd occasionally need to pull the pulleys out.

I'm transitioning to Silca's molten wax, but I'm going to basically do the same as above, except that I'm think it's no longer recommended to wipe the chain off after a normal ride.

I used to be very bad about maintenance! I'd lube the chain occasionally, maybe every 500 miles, or when it started squeaking. I didn't even wipe it off after a ride. Big mistake there! I did used to degrease it with a rag and degreaser in college, but eventually I figured that I was just spreading grease all over the rag, so I stopped doing that. Well, change the rag, right? I did figure that chains were cheap, so why be too obsessed. Then I got older and I had fewer watts to spare, plus I realized never mind the cost, that thing is made of steel, and I don't know if it recycles well. So, I figured I should be more conscientious about it.

[Seramount]

my SOP is very basic...just can't be bothered to obsess over a $30 wear item.

wipe with old t-shirt after every ride.

lube with Chain-L every 700-800 miles.

chain never comes off the bike except to be replaced (~10K miles).

[OtayBW]

my SOP is very basic...just can't be bothered to obsess over a $30 wear item.

wipe with old t-shirt after every ride.

lube with Chain-L every 700-800 miles.

chain never comes off the bike except to be replaced (~10K miles).
:beer:

[madsciencenow]

I've been using WD40 as a degreaser. All 3 of my bike have quick links so I'm considering just removing the chain and soak in mineral spirits. Then after drying with a rag applying Rock N Roll Gold.


I use WD40 as cleaner, let dry as much as possible and then add Rock N Roll (the orange colored one). I previously did the mineral spirits thing but it’s a PITA and i didn’t see much benefit to this. In addition, I felt like it took a couple of lube cycles post cleaning to get the chain fully lubricated again.

I’ve also used the park cleaner and it works well but is a PITA to keep clean.


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[Bob Ross]

my SOP is very basic...just can't be bothered to obsess over a $30 wear item.

I must confess, after being on the Park Chain Cleaning Gizmo bandwagon for a number of years, I've recently come to the realization that A) my time is worth money, B) I don't really have a convenient location where I can deploy copious quantities of degreasers, or mineral spirits, or soap&water, or water-displacers etc., and C) that I no longer find joy in obsessing over the minutiae of bike maintenance...although that may have something to do with having too many bikes.

So these days, yeah, wipe down the chain after every ride, apply NFS or ProLink once every 200-300 miles, and buy a new chain when the shifting gets irrevocably wonky. I know, I'm lazy...

[Coffee Rider]

I spray a bit of Morgan Blue on the chain and cogs and then turn the pedals while using a brush and running the brush through the cogs. I let it sit for a few minutes, then hose off the chain and cogs. After that, I run the chain through a rag long enough to apply pressure on all sides of the chain. I also apply the rag to the pulleys and the big chain ring. I let the bike sit out to dry and then reapply NFS.

[John H.]

I used Molten Speed wax. I reapply about every 200 miles.
In between I used Dawn detergent and water- same as the rest of my bike.
I give the chain a few cycles in a metal Park Chain Cleaner with the same Dawn/water mix.

[Tony]

I clean my chain, pulleys, cass (edge of and rag and tooth brush) and rings with a rag. After the rag I use toilet paper, catch it between the rings and pulleys running it through several times. With bike upside down i apply Dumonde Lite where the chain bends at the bottom pulley. I run the chain in a S bend in my fingers several times forcing lube between the plates. Let lube sit on chain for a minute, then wipe down chain and pulley. This whole process take just a few minutes.
Every now and then will clean chain with kerosene.

[OtayBW]

I must confess, after being on the Park Chain Cleaning Gizmo bandwagon for a number of years, I've recently come to the realization that A) my time is worth money, B) I don't really have a convenient location where I can deploy copious quantities of degreasers, or mineral spirits, or soap&water, or water-displacers etc., and C) that I no longer find joy in obsessing over the minutiae of bike maintenance...although that may have something to do with having too many bikes.

So these days, yeah, wipe down the chain after every ride, apply NFS or ProLink once every 200-300 miles, and buy a new chain when the shifting gets irrevocably wonky. I know, I'm lazy...
Again, I say..........:beer:

[old_fat_and_slow]

Can anyone explain why most chain lubes have gone to drip application instead of aerosol. I can't believe it could be concern over ozone depletion. It must be cheaper to manufacture. I'm still using my old aerosol cans of Boeshield, and I'm not looking forward to transitioning to drip application. Very few aerosol options available now. :mad:

Oh yeah, my routing is never clean. Just add new lube, and wipe chain, cassette and rings with paper towel. Used to do the degreaser in reservoir and the spinning brushes routine, but you have to change the degreaser 3 or 4 times to get the chain to come out really clean. Too much hassle.

[Tony]

Can anyone explain why most chain lubes have gone to drip application instead of aerosol. I can't believe it could be concern over ozone depletion. It must be cheaper to manufacture. I'm still using my old aerosol cans of Boeshield, and I'm not looking forward to transitioning to drip application. Very few aerosol options available now. :mad:

Oh yeah, my routing is never clean. Just add new lube, and wipe chain, cassette and rings with paper towel. Used to do the degreaser in reservoir and the spinning brushes routine, but you have to change the degreaser 3 or 4 times to get the chain to come out really clean. Too much hassle.

Aerosols are somewhat messy.
I stopped using aerosols on my motorcycle and switched to a paste. I went back to an aerosol after using this product, Grease ninja, 5:50 in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7H5hgVbTvhg

[Louis]

Aerosols are somewhat messy.

Yup

I've always used drip bottles, and it couldn't possibly be easier:

Left hand holds the bottle upside down over the chain, right hand the pedal. Squeeze bottle intermittently and backpedal slowly for a while, until the chain shows sufficient lube. Stop applying lube. Backpedal a bit longer to be sure that the lube is well distributed. Wipe excess off chain, chainrings and cassette. Wipe down anything that splattered. You're done. About 5 minutes total, 10 if you're meticulous / anal and want to do a bit more cleaning.

[BlueHampsten]

I use ProLink to clean and lube the chain about once a month or every 400-500 miles. I ride in dry conditions so that is about the right interval. Lube too often and it just attracts and traps the dust and dirt. Don't lube often enough and you get flecks of metal when you wipe lube off the chain. I put a drop of ProLink on each link and then wipe clean with a towel by running the crankset backwards.

Clean the jockey wheels, chainrings and cassette at the same time with Finish Line Citrus degreaser.

[cmbicycles]

Wipe with a rag when dirty, relube, ride... replace when worn. Dont care enough about a consumable/wear item to spend a lot of time and resources cleaning to save 10% of it's useful life which equates to about $2-3. For my personal bikes, I have better uses of my time.

[RoosterCogset]

Spray rag with degreaser
Wipe chain, flip rag til clean
Let dry
Lube

^^
This

[MO Will]

I have used Rock n Roll Gold. Wipe with a rag and apply as directed. Sometimes I use a Clorox wipe.

I am thinking of trying NFS. is there a difference between NFS and Silca NFS?

Thx

[Dave]

The dirt that causes wear is inside the chain, so external wiping only makes the chain look better. I take mine off and place it in an old water bottle containing no more than 8 ounces of camp stove fuel. Shake vigorously, let sit for awhile and shake again. Pour solvent into storage bottle for reuse. Repeat with more clean solvent.

Allow to dry for a day, then lube with my pennies per ounce home made wax lube. This lube is nearly as clean as hot dip wax, so very little sprocket or jockey pulley cleaning is needed.

[mikehkaiser]

Aerosols have drying agents in them. So just like spray sunscreen, it's harder to make sure you get enough of it where you want it, and you waste a lot in application.

Happy to see this thread. I've been needing to clean my chain.

[reuben]

Back when dinosaurs shat in the woods, I cleaned my chain about twice per year. Maybe three. Granted, I rode on pretty good roads.

Is this every 100/500 miles or so really necessary? I realize that we ride in different conditions, but I would ride 100+ miles per week, and I NEVER cleaned with anything like the frequency y'all are talking about. I wouldn't even wipe it off unless a few months had passed or it started making noise.

[9tubes]

I don't have much to add to the above except that I use acetone as the solvent on the rag. It cuts through any chain lube instantly and it evaporates very quickly. Rubber gloves are recommended.

For lube I am using the Rock n' Roll Holy Cow lube. Wonderful stuff. Even better than the Rock n' Roll Gold. It doesn't gather dirt so the chain stays clean. I wipe with a rag (plus the jockey wheels) and lube every 100-150 miles.

The Holy Cow lube has very little residue or buildup but I remove the cassette maybe every 500-600 miles and clean separately. If I'm feeling ambitious I also might remove the chain at the same time and clean with Citrasolv or Park cleaner to wash out the dirt inside the rollers.

With this routine the chain always looks new, shifts perfectly, and I find the wear level to be very low. I usually change chains because of shifting performance rather than because of chain stretch. Besides, chains are cheap and cassettes/chainrings are expensive (SRAM Red here).

[Seramount]

I learned the lesson about being a chain 'fetishist' in the late 80s.

remove chain, soak in gasoline, scrub with toothbrush, wash in hot water/soap, dry in 250F oven, dip in paraffin, reinstall...

for all that time and labor, the chain would show rust spots and start squeaking in 75-100 miles. so, you'd have to repeat the whole stupid process.

effin silly.

[bikerboy337]

I’ve just been using White Lightning Ride Lube for all my bikes for about 10 years now. Apply a good bit, wipe clean. Drivetrain is noiseless and I’ve never had any issues. Apply some lube to derailleur about every 300 miles or so. Line chain about every 100 -150, probably too often but it’s so easy and takes about a minute....

Never had to clean a chain or drivetrain other than the normal bath I’ll give my bike after rain rides or 2-3x a year....


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[Gummee]

I can't be bothered.

About every other Friday or so I'll spray something like Finish Line in the red spray can, Motorex, or other dry lube on the chain, wipe off, clean the pulleys, wipe down the rings, floss the cogs with an old t-shirt and put the bike away.

Gravel and mtn bikes get the same treatment, but typically after every ride.

I'm 'the mechanic' so my stuff has to work and not make noises

M

[Upcountry]

I'm on board with the hot wax routine. So with that, I have 4 "road chains". I'll swap a cleanly waxed one on every 300-400 miles/2-4 weeks, or a day or two prior to a race(with wax, it can take 20-30 miles to loosen up and start shifting perfectly). So at that rate, I really only have to process the batch of them every few months. When that time comes, it's a bath of acetone, then mineral spirits, then hang dry. Then 10 minutes in the crockpot bath with wax(paraffin/speed wax mix), then hang dry. I even re-use the quicklinks, but don't tell!!!

[eddief]

Just curious. I hear that you hang the chains until dry but are not mineral spirits petroleum based and does that not leave a residue that would make it harder for the wax to stick? Would finishing with an alcohol rinse after mineral spirits be better for wax adhesion?

I'd like to see this thread get to 2000 entries anyway :).

I'm on board with the hot wax routine. So with that, I have 4 "road chains". I'll swap a cleanly waxed one on every 300-400 miles/2-4 weeks, or a day or two prior to a race(with wax, it can take 20-30 miles to loosen up and start shifting perfectly). So at that rate, I really only have to process the batch of them every few months. When that time comes, it's a bath of acetone, then mineral spirits, then hang dry. Then 10 minutes in the crockpot bath with wax(paraffin/speed wax mix), then hang dry. I even re-use the quicklinks, but don't tell!!!

[reconstyle]

Just curious. I hear that you hang the chains until dry but are not mineral spirits petroleum based and does that not leave a residue that would make it harder for the wax to stick? Would finishing with an alcohol rinse after mineral spirits be better for wax adhesion?

I'd like to see this thread get to 2000 entries anyway :).

FWIW the MSW chain cleaning process linked earlier in the thread has the process going through 3 Mineral Spirit baths, then 2 baths in denatured alcohol.

I actually read those directions incorrectly and started on a new chain with the denatured alcohol and it did nothing to get the waxy layer off from a new chain. A couple baths in mineral spirits took care of it quite well, though.

[slowpoke]

Californians, do you use the odorless mineral spirits that we can only buy here like this to clean your chains?

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/green-odorless-mineral-spirits-for-california

Does it work just as well, or should I look into some other solvents?

[PQJ]

nixfrixshun lube...has developed quite a following here and across the hall

http://nixfrixshun.com/nixfrixshun-ultimate-bicycle-chainlube/

For good reason. It's the bees knees.


I am thinking of trying NFS. is there a difference between NFS and Silca NFS?

Thx

Yes, I believe there is, though I can't speak to the science. There is a gentlemen here who speaks for Silca from time to time and I'm sure he'll chime in. Too Tall, the NFS proprietor, can probably weigh in as well but you may need to hit him up Across The Hall.

[Ozz]

Zep Citrus Degreaser (gallon size from Home Depot) in the Park chain tool to get most the junk...wipe with towel, then a quick spray of Finishline Speed degreaer on each link to blow out gunk inside links. Wipe with towel and let dry.

Then I apply ATB lube

I've been thinking of trying a quick-link or such so I can take chain off to clean...not sure how those work yet, or compatibility with my chains/drivetrain.

[Dave]

Californians, do you use the odorless mineral spirits that we can only buy here like this to clean your chains?

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/green-odorless-mineral-spirits-for-california

Does it work just as well, or should I look into some other solvents?

If the product is milky looking, it's not odorless mineral spirits, but yes, it should degrease a chain just fine.

Crown brand camp stove fuel dries faster and is much less expensive from walmart, but may not be sold in CA.

[SlowPokePete]

Here's my routine...

I use NFS lube, wipe down after every ride.

About every 150 miles...

1. WD-40 out of a drip bottle to remove old lube and dirt, etc.

2. Wipe very thoroughly with clean rag.

3. Small screwdriver on jockey pulleys to remove any build up of crud.

4. Often times use pipe cleaner spin rear wheel backwards and "floss" between cassette cogs.

5. Wipe chain thoroughly again.

6. Apply 10-12 drops of NFS spaced evenly on chain. I usually do this the next day to allow any residual WD-40 to evaporate.

7. Backpedal at least 100 revolutions to distribute lube.

8. Wipe thoroughly to remove as much excess lube as possible.

It's super important to wipe down the chain after (or before) every ride.

SPP

[Dead Man]

when i have a garage aka bike room: hose chain down w WD-40, turn cranks to rub off excess, then blast chain with compressed air to blow out all the stuff inside, turn cranks to drip oil to each link, wipe again. no preference for oil - its just gonna get stripped off and reapplied in the near future anyway.

when apartment living: turn crank to wipe off chain, lightly add mobile 1

cant say ive noticed a difference in chain life.... my own life is too chaotic to be paying attention to such things.. to me the only difference it makes is in how likely i am to get chain tats on my calf

however... in college when i was commuting hundreds of miles a week in 9 months of rain in the PNW, i did the first method every day (that i rode) and did suddenly stop burning thru chains every few weeks. i mean i was going thru chains like crazy. i suspect the wear was more due to rain/rust abrasion than anything, so soaking in a water disperser then blasting dry pretty much ended my issues

[cabbagelookin]

Another wax convert. It's not no-work to set up, but I love the almost-zero maintenance between waxes and the silent drivetrain. Plus, I kind of like putzing around in the bike barn, so it's a little meditative. (I do NOT enjoy cleaning bikes though - this feels more wrench-y than clean-y.)

Degreaser - Simple Green Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner (a James Huang recommendation)
Prepping - Denatured alcohol
Wax - Molten Speedwax

I also have an ultrasonic cleaner but don't use it much for chains, just agitating chains in jars with degreaser or alcohol.

JB

[Ozz]

when i have a garage aka bike room: hose chain down w WD-40, ...
The instructions on my ATB lube specifically mention WD-40 as a chain cleaner.....

[weaponsgrade]

I'm on the wax bandwagon too. Conditions here in Nor Cal don't get too muddy. After about 200 miles, I'll pull the chain off, boil it in water to clean it, and dry it, and into the slowcooker it goes.

[thwart]

I can't be bothered.

About every other Friday or so I'll spray something like Finish Line in the red spray can, Motorex, or other dry lube on the chain, wipe off, clean the pulleys, wipe down the rings, floss the cogs with an old t-shirt and put the bike away.

Gravel and mtn bikes get the same treatment, but typically after every ride.

I'm 'the mechanic' so my stuff has to work and not make noises

M

This.

My chains have lasted a very long time, and have been generally quiet.

I use NFS (so not a wax-based lubricant) on bikes that will see rain, crud, salt, etc., otherwise I’ve had very good luck over the past several years with White Lightning Clean Ride.

[joosttx]

Waxing a chain is the bomb

[parallelfish]

Waxing a chain is the bomb

Yep!

[slowpoke]

I'm on the wax bandwagon too. Conditions here in Nor Cal don't get too muddy. After about 200 miles, I'll pull the chain off, boil it in water to clean it, and dry it, and into the slowcooker it goes.

I believe the consensus in this thread is that waxing is the way to go, esp for dry dusty conditions.

Now how do you clean in California (i.e. what solvents are you using) since we don't have easy access to denatured alcohol or mineral spirits?

[cabbagelookin]

I believe the consensus in this thread is that waxing is the way to go, esp for dry dusty conditions.

Now how do you clean in California (i.e. what solvents are you using) since we don't have easy access to denatured alcohol or mineral spirits?

I ordered denatured alcohol from Amazon. Don't tell anyone.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XSD6F1Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Dead Man]

why on earth is denatured alcohol banned in cali?? cuz methanol?

[Gummee]

This may be heresy, but the only times I bother to "officially" clean my chains (that is, use the machine intended for that purpose, with the chain still on the bike) is after particularly wet or dusty rides. (Which isn't that often)

Other than that, I just add more lube (ProLink) when things get a bit loud and wipe of the excess. (which IMO does a fairly decent job of cleaning things) I also wipe off the chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels. Things seem to last just as long as when I used my Park chain scrubber machine on a more regular basis.

I need to go clean the bike I just rode. Put some Muc-Off wet lube on the chain before 2hrs of riding in the rain and it's a black, nasty mess right now

M

[MikeD]

why on earth is denatured alcohol banned in cali?? cuz methanol?


It isn't. It's also not a very good degreaser. You can buy mineral spirits at Lowe's or any hardware store. Probably Walmart too.

I use Simple Green in boiling hot water.

[glepore]

I believe the consensus in this thread is that waxing is the way to go, esp for dry dusty conditions.

Now how do you clean in California (i.e. what solvents are you using) since we don't have easy access to denatured alcohol or mineral spirits?

I wax but don't clean, other than the initial removal of the factory grease-which I usually do with a degreaser and an ultrasonic cleaner. Otherwise, I just throw the chain in the crockpot for 1/2 hour. Any dirt (there isn't much, as there's no sticky lube for it to adhere to) settles to the bottom. Change the wax maybe once/2x a year.

[charliedid]

The most important thing is to do SOMETHING regularly to clean chain and add lube or wax etc. It all works fine through conditions and environmental factors may dictate preferred method. If you ride in wet city grime a ton I don't suggest wax though I know people who use it. Doesn't jibe with my jib but it might with yours.

Work in a bike shop for a while and you will quickly learn that there is three kinds of cyclists. Those who do nothing (many many) those that do too much (many) and those like folks here who have a method and process that works for them.

The too much camp is the grossest thing. 'Hi can you just adjust my gears a little?" I don't even know how to respond to that.

https://i.stack.imgur.com/eE2q4.jpg

[cabbagelookin]

It isn't. It's also not a very good degreaser. You can buy mineral spirits at Lowe's or any hardware store. Probably Walmart too.

I use Simple Green in boiling hot water.

I use alcohol as a step after Simple Green degreasing to get it minty. YMMV.

[Dave]

Anyone recommending wd-40 as a cleaner apparently doesn't realize that there's plenty of oil in it and you've contaminated your chain with a light weight oil, before applying your high buck lube.

I like wax too, but only in liquid form. With hot dipping, the majority of the wax is wasted on parts that don't need lubrication.

[weaponsgrade]

I believe the consensus in this thread is that waxing is the way to go, esp for dry dusty conditions.

Now how do you clean in California (i.e. what solvents are you using) since we don't have easy access to denatured alcohol or mineral spirits?

I was able to buy mineral spirits and denatured alcohol at my local Home Depot - or at least it was marketed as such. I only did the full monty chain clean when the chains were new to remove the factory oils.

[George_H]

I have two loaf tins from the dollar store with paraffin from Hobby Lobby. They both go into the toaster over, one of them containing my dirty chain. It melts, then I agitate it and fish out the chain and quick link with a paper clip.

The relatively clean chain goes into the "clean" wax in the other loaf tin. When the clean chain gets removed from the wax, it hangs and will dry almost immediately. I do it every other week and kind of enjoy doing it.

[dddd]

With so many options, I have to ask first what are the priorities?

1) Fast application. Lube should thus be well-diluted with some kind of solvent so that the lube comes out of the bottle in a continuous stream.
So the application should take no more than 20-30 seconds.
The high solvent content also assures that the amount of potentially-messy lubricant that stays inside of the chain is low enough to preclude oozing out of the links during subsequent rides. The chain is thus best left to dry out for some hours after lubing.


2) Fast wipe-down. Using terry-cloth and a back-and-forth action against the moving chain cleans off the dirt and excess lube in about 45 seconds.

For really dirty chains or with a lot of grit present, I sometimes repeat all of the above.

I should do a video to show how quickly all of this can be done, including some bit of wiping of pulleys and sprockets as needed.
I don't ever let chains get really dirty but sometimes work on bikes where aged encrustations of lube/dirt will require more time to remove.

My chains only leave a very mild "tatoo" since they are wiped down thoroughly and with diluted "light" lubes used exclusively.

I blend my own lubes using motor oil diluted a full 75% with either mineral spirits or the solvent/ptfe liquid from the middle large aerosol can shown (the silicone lubes I use only for cables!).

https://live.staticflickr.com/4842/46118949754_368b5aa99f_c.jpg

[ChainNoise]

It isn't. It's also not a very good degreaser. You can buy mineral spirits at Lowe's or any hardware store. Probably Walmart too.

I use Simple Green in boiling hot water.

Wd-40 is an excellent degreaser followed by alcohol, and can't forget to wipe whatever it is you're cleaning with a rag or something just after applying the alcohol.

[johnniecakes]

Over the past weekend I removed 6 chains and cassettes. Each chain and cassette got soaked in gasoline to remove the major crud. Next they go into a metal coffee can and get shaken vigorously with a little more gas. Next they move into a 10" square metal pan where they get scrubbed was gas and a brush. The chain get hung up to drip dry while the cassette get dried with paper towels. After hanging for a few minutes I run a propane torch down the length of hanging chain to burn off any remaining gas. Wipe down the chain rings to clean them up. Reassemble back on the bike and apply NFS. Each chain cassette combo is handled separately so they remain matched

[glepore]

Over the past weekend I removed 6 chains and cassettes. Each chain and cassette got soaked in gasoline to remove the major crud. Next they go into a metal coffee can and get shaken vigorously with a little more gas. Next they move into a 10" square metal pan where they get scrubbed was gas and a brush. The chain get hung up to drip dry while the cassette get dried with paper towels. After hanging for a few minutes I run a propane torch down the length of hanging chain to burn off any remaining gas. Wipe down the chain rings to clean them up. Reassemble back on the bike and apply NFS. Each chain cassette combo is handled separately so they remain matched

Where does the dirty gas go?

[Louis]

Where does the dirty gas go?

https://qympt437y6t15jza3hs3hy1c-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/coal-rolling-a-bicyclist.png

[Dead Man]

https://qympt437y6t15jza3hs3hy1c-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/coal-rolling-a-bicyclist.png

lol'd

[charliedid]

Haha

Light your chains on fire.

[Hellgate]

I changed up my routine recently.

Automotive brake cleaner. Leave the chain in place. Blast it, the cassette, derailleurs. Let dry. Your lube of choice [emoji6]. Ride.

[Hellgate]

Over the past weekend I removed 6 chains and cassettes. Each chain and cassette got soaked in gasoline to remove the major crud. Next they go into a metal coffee can and get shaken vigorously with a little more gas. Next they move into a 10" square metal pan where they get scrubbed was gas and a brush. The chain get hung up to drip dry while the cassette get dried with paper towels. After hanging for a few minutes I run a propane torch down the length of hanging chain to burn off any remaining gas. Wipe down the chain rings to clean them up. Reassemble back on the bike and apply NFS. Each chain cassette combo is handled separately so they remain matchedThat's a technique.

[alleznathan]

This thread parallels the coffee thread in a lot of ways - many ways to get caffeinated/cleaned up, many of them remarkably intricate and probably quite meditative. In the end though, it's all in service of getting back on the road.

[Louis]

This thread parallels the coffee thread in a lot of ways - many ways to get caffeinated/cleaned up, many of them remarkably intricate and probably quite meditative. In the end though, it's all in service of getting back on the road.

Time for a thread on the best way to install tubulars tires.

[johnniecakes]

Where does the dirty gas go?

I ended up with just over a quart of dirty gas when everything was done.
Double layer of coffee filters over a funnel and added it to the just filled Subaru gas tank. 1 quart into 56 quarts of really dilutes it before the engine gets it.

[J.Higgins]

I am constantly amazed at the diversity of answers in threads like these, and how everyone feels it necessary to puff out their chests and crow about their personal methods. :rolleyes:

I guess I'm jaded after years of reading these types of threads; they've apparently become shop-worn.

[oldpotatoe]

I am constantly amazed at the diversity of answers in threads like these, and how everyone feels it necessary to puff out their chests and crow about their personal methods. :rolleyes:

I guess I'm jaded after years of reading these types of threads; they've apparently become shop-worn.

No kidding...:eek:

Geez, it's a bike chain...not a chain used in the linkage of an aircraft.

I put it and the cogs, pulleys, chainrings into a tub with hot water and Simple Green..scrub, scrub...let dry(not too long..the chain 'can' rust).

And lube with whatever I see first on my bench..NFS, WD-40 lube, even Boeshield...Some stuff in a bottle that has the label worn off, not even sure what it is..bike chain tho...

:eek::eek::eek:

[Tickdoc]

Often repeated but useful thread.

Simple routine maintenance for me is simple green brushed and washed while on a stand about three times followed by phil's tenacious. I like the way simple green doesn't get rid of every last ounce of gunk and I like how such a small amount of phil's lasts forever and is silent.

I used to use a pedro's attached cleaner and boeshield, but I like to just combine the chain cleaning with a whole bike cleaning now and I don't miss fiddling with the pedro's cleaning thingy.

Too dusty here for wax to last long enough to make it worth the trouble. I have an ultrasonic cleaner but I don't like the thought of continual shakedown of all interior gunk.

[Greatestalltime]

1) remove
2) sonic clean 30minutes
3) Molten wax

If Shimano do you reuse the quick link?

[MikeD]

I've got one of these ultrasonic cleaners https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

Problem is I don't know if it's working all that well. It heats and buzzes, but I'm not seeing small bubbles coming off the chain. Using water with a bit of Simple Green ProHD. I put each chain in a zip lock bag with the solvent mix and water in the cleaner (this keeps the tank clean). The chains get pretty, but not perfectly clean though and I think it's mostly the hot water doing the work. I'm thinking of buying a better ultrasonic cleaner, but don't know if it will work much better.

[fmradio516]

somewhat related question: has anyone gone from waxing a chain back to lube? I have a chain that has been waxed but wondering if its too late to go back to the ol drip lube since all the internal factory grease is washed out.

[russd32]

Once the chain is black and it makes a sound like "YAARRRRG YAAAARG GRRRRAAMPPPFFF" I stand about 2 ft back with a can of WD and give it the fountain until she quiets down.

[Hellgate]

If Shimano do you reuse the quick link?I use a Shimano quick link on Campy 11 chain. Shhhh... don't tell anyone.

[johnniecakes]

If Shimano do you reuse the quick link?

I reuse the KMC link on Shimano chains.

[torelli]

For me nothing complicated, simple green for routine cleaning, rock n roll lube on the chain. I was using Muc Off ceramic lube, swore by the stuff, but reapplying every 100 miles meant doing the above and I just couldn't be bothered. For more intensive cleaning try the Finish Line Speed Degreaser. It will make quick work of cleaning between the links of the chain and the pulleys.

And I never take my chain off. I like to make quick work of cleaning the bike.

[MagicHour]

Finish Line chain cleaner gizmo and Park Bio chainbrite a couple times per season. Run it through a couple revolutions, wipe clean and dry then lube w/ Dumonde Tech Lite. More frequently if it's not too dirty I just run chain through an old rag with some Chainbrite.

[sg8357]

No chain clean thread is complete without the ShelBroCo system illustration...

[reuben]

No chain clean thread is complete without the ShelBroCo system illustration...

I hear it works on dentures, too.

[dddd]

...and i never take my chain off. I like to make quick work of cleaning the bike.


word.

[dddd]

somewhat related question: has anyone gone from waxing a chain back to lube?...

All do, eventually.

[joosttx]

I reuse the KMC link on Shimano chains.

What Johnny Cakes said get a KMC link and reuse it. I now just dip my chain in boiling water for approximately 30 seconds instead of using a sonic cleaner.

[alleznathan]

somewhat related question: has anyone gone from waxing a chain back to lube? I have a chain that has been waxed but wondering if its too late to go back to the ol drip lube since all the internal factory grease is washed out.

Don't think this would be a problem - would imagine cleaning the wax out of a chain is easier than getting rid of the factory grease. But could be wrong. Many wet lubes also recommend removing all factory grease

[Louis]

Geez, it's a bike chain...not a chain used in the linkage of an aircraft.

Chains can be lifesavers:

https://www.idahostatejournal.com/freeaccess/emergency-responders-rescue-two-people-dogs-from-pickup-hanging-perilously-from-malad-gorge-bridge/article_8c21820d-32f8-53ed-9bf6-3ad6a0986717.html

https://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/idahostatejournal.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/8/8f/88f7d217-c651-56fb-bf14-9b0691d0eb56/605042d290563.image.jpg?resize=750%2C624

[geoffreychin08]

WD40 the chain and wipe with old cut up undershirts I find works best to get most of the old lube and gunk off. Clean pulley wheels. Then use a new cut piece of t-shirt sprayed with WD40 to "floss" the cassette in-between each cog. Wipe down with a clean shirt square. Then lube chain, wipe away excess. Doesn't take more than 10-15.

[paredown]

What--no love for home brew anymore?:banana:

[charliedid]

This forum sure loves WD-40 and automotive brake cleaners...

[pdonk]

In prepping my chains for a waxing, I used the silica method and degreaser suggested, first into a jar with the degreaser, shake for a few minutes, let sit, wipe. Into a new jar of the same degreaser, repeat. Then into a jar of acetone, shake, wipe let dry.

It was a bit of an exercise, but I have never had chains so clean, then into the wax.

The idea that the next cleaning will simply be into boiling water is appealing.

Now to try and figure out what to do with my old lubes I have, especially the muc off with the "forever" chemicals. Feel bad about owning it now.

[russd32]

In all honesty I'm in the camp of wipe down/floss and wax. All my bikes have a quick link, so probably a couple times a year I pull the chain and cassette to give them a legit cleaning in degreaser.

[dddd]

What--no love for home brew anymore?:banana:

Definitely, I mentioned this in my earlier post, works the best for me!

I put DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant aerosol liquid into a TriFlow or WL squeeze bottle, add ~25% motor oil and an applicator tube and Bob's your uncle!
I do find that the bottle/liquid needs to outgas for a day in a warm location so that it doesn't behave like it's carbonated!

The applicator tube and soft-sided squeeze bottle is critical to giving the right controlled flow onto the chain, making the whole process super-fast, tidy and and easy.

I would never shoot an aerosol lube on my chain, though I have applied Finish Line degreaser that way from the left side of the bike (through the spokes) and with the bike leaning to the right (followed by a high-pressure water blast, again from the left side along the free run of the chain).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51005049545_7b54f4f7ab_c.jpg

[Ozz]

This forum sure loves WD-40 and automotive brake cleaners...
Relatively cheap, effective, and blows the gunk and water off the chain.....

Finishline Speed Degreaser does pretty much the same for a lot more....

[OtayBW]

Finishline Speed Degreaser does pretty much the same for a lot more....Agreed. I use it sparingly, but geez, it is really effective.