Best Mechanical Disc Road Caliper

[BRad704]

By next Tuesday, I should have a 2020 Emonda SL7 Disc Frame to build. But I don't have any hydro disc groupsets laying around. I DO have a full R7000 group I can use, but will need mechanical disc calipers.

Is there something nicer (yet still affordable) than TRP Spyres I should be looking at?


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[ergott]

There are plenty of top tier choices that work well when set up properly. I'm building mid tier bikes with mech brakes from Tecktro et al and they are fine, but I take the time to not only insure the brakes are set up well, I insure the tabes they mount on are well surfaced. The Trek is probably fine, but I'm dealing with bikes that leave the tabs painted and that mucks up the alignment.

It's been a while since I've owned any, but I though Avid were nice. I like the idea of the newer ones that have both pads come in on the rotor but I forget which model does. Keep on the pad adjustment as they wear.

[BRad704]

There are plenty of top tier choices that work well when set up properly. I'm building mid tier bikes with mech brakes from Tecktro et al and they are fine, but I take the time to not only insure the brakes are set up well, I insure the tabes they mount on are well surfaced. The Trek is probably fine, but I'm dealing with bikes that leave the tabs painted and that mucks up the alignment.



It's been a while since I've owned any, but I though Avid were nice. I like the idea of the newer ones that have both pads come in on the rotor but I forget which model does. Keep on the pad adjustment as they wear.



Good idea about the surfacing. This bike is already built as an original SL7, I'm just getting the frame and wheels. Hopefully the disc mounting is already good to go.

I'll check into the Avids too.


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[Pelican]

Is there something nicer (yet still affordable) than TRP Spyres I should be looking at?

The Spyres are the best mechanical disc caliper IMHO. The only thing nicer is the SLC version with the carbon lever arms (I have some if you're looking).

I have Paul's Klampers too, in case anyone is going to suggest those.

[joev]

Another recommendation on the Avid's. I have the bb7 sl for mountain bikes coupled with Jagwire cables and housing and they work great. The mountain ones are black. I don't know if the mtn's have a different lever throw.
1698001901

[Gummee]

Even better than the TRP stuff is a set of Yokozunas or a pair of Juin Tech brakes. Same calipers, but the Yokozuna come with compressionless cables

M

[weisan]

Keyword: compressionless cables

[tkbike]

I have the Spyres on my touring bike and they work better than the Paul’s they replaced. Used the same jagwire cables with each set. I would like to try the Juin techs at some point, have heard nothing but rave reviews about them in the loaded touring community!

[Spoker]

Juintech with Yokuzuna cables.

[robt57]

Keyword: compressionless cables

Housings I think you mean. :)

Add highly polished quality stainless cables..

That and I find adding Swiss Stop Green Organic pad up front make for excellent stopping with either BB7 or Spyres. Have done both. And I am a Clyde and demand good brakes to stop my 200lb girth. I have also done the HY/RD and won't get more of those moving forward.

If you are big like me don't even thing of a 140 front rotor. I like the 180 best I have on one bike over the 160s when the going get tough for extended periods.

[slowpoke]

I'd be hesitant to recommend TRP Spyre disc brakes without mentioning a safety flaw in their design.

The 3mm adjustment bolt for the Spyre pads have backed out on some riders--reducing the braking power. TRP's fix for this is to advise people to apply Loc-tite on the threads to prevent the bolts from unscrewing on their own. It's crazy that a critical component such as a brake relies on bolt that turns loosely on its own--not held by any mechanical tension.

People here may tell you they've ridden 10,000s miles no problem, but I'd rather not be in the minority.

Examples:

What I have found though is that on the revised Spyre calipers, the new pad adjusters aren't too great, as once they are set they screwed in to set a pad position, they don't hold their adjustment. The screw must be loosening itself under use and resetting itself. I now compensate the brake for wear by using the cable adjuster and leave the pad adjusters wound all the way out. I suspect the problem is with the design, they are grub screws with a layer of thread lock on them, however I suspect under usage the heat renders it useless which causes it to reset. This seems like a poor workaround instead of locking it mechanically with a ratchet system like on Avid's BB7 calipers.
25 November 2014 - https://smutpedaller.blogspot.com/2014/11/trp-spyre-disc-brake-long-term-review.html

the pad adjusters don't stay put; after a while the soft threadlock on the pad adjusting screws doesn't do its job any more and the pads are on the move as you go down the road.
6 Aug 2018, 1:55pm - https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?p=1258982#p1258982


tuctrohs: Jan Heine complained that that adjustment screw can drift from vibration, and for that reason he no longer recommends those brakes. But blue loctite on those threads should work.

semyorka7: Yep. The pad adjusters have no retention features, and will back out if you use them. I had this happen to me while bombing down a rocky slope on a fully-loaded bikepacking trip.

~2019 - https://old.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/a8wb4m/trp_spyre_c_stopped_working_again/


hollyboni: Also make sure to strip them down every few months, and right when you get them give the pad adjustment screws a Loctite bath or they will go out of adjustment regularly.

~2019 - https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/trp-spyre-dual-vs-hydraulics/#post-10126961

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/ajbdiw/adjusting_trp_spyre_brake_pad_adjusters_how_to/

[wallymann]

BB7s are portly, bulky and a pain to adjust.

HY/RDs are portly and bulky.

I just picked up some JuinTech GT- Fs (new 4-piston design)... they're light and svelte, require no faffing about to fettle.

[robt57]

BB7s are portly, bulky and a pain to adjust.

Not had issue adjusting personally, but not 1st time I have heard the sentiment.

HY/RDs are portly and bulky.

And getting correct lever position is an issue, unless they fixed that is newer versions.

I just picked up some JuinTech GT- Fs (new 4-piston design)... they're light and svelte, require no faffing about to fettle.

Very interested in hearing the mid/long term reports on these.

Not to mention for campy these seem best choice non hydro as I understand it.

[wallymann]

Not had issue adjusting personally, but not 1st time I have heard the sentiment.

issue when combined with QR setup, not if a TA. QR wheels always-always-always recenter slightly off when reinstalled (infinitesimally small, but noticeable with discs). so the multi-step adjustment procedure becomes a PITA when required so frequently.

[robt57]

issue when combined with QR setup, less so if a TA. QR wheels always-always-always recenter slightly off when reinstalled (infinitesimally small, but noticeable with discs). so the multi-step adjustment procedure becomes a PITA when required so frequently.

Explained in my case as I lay the bike laying on side in CRV and wheel was never off, or seldom.

[blantonator]

BB7s are portly, bulky and a pain to adjust.

HY/RDs are portly and bulky.

I just picked up some JuinTech GT- Fs (new 4-piston design)... they're light and svelte, require no faffing about to fettle.

how do they compare and feel to full hydraulic?

[fogrider]

Yokuzuna makes the Ultimo which is a self contained hydro brake caliber but is cable actuated. you get all the benefits of hydro.

[wallymann]

Yokuzuna makes the Ultimo which is a self contained hydro brake caliber but is cable actuated. you get all the benefits of hydro.

juintech makes the yokozunas. the GT is the latest in their cable-hydro evolution...4 piston design!

how do they compare and feel to full hydraulic?

never ridden full hydros, but cable-hydros feel pretty dang good if you set them up properly and use compression-proof housing + polished cables and are sure that the caliper/lever pull ratios are sympatico.

the draw of cable-hydros is no faffing about with specialized tools to fit/trim hoses or with bleeding air from system @ installation. also, compatibility with "legacy" cable-based brifter systems.

[BRad704]

Thanks y'all. Some good new info to consider here.

I do know that I'm not looking to spend $300+ on the Juintech's. Seems to be coming to Spyres vs BB7's. And good compressionless hosting is vital.


Maybe I'll put a Giant cable hydro module on it. [emoji16]


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[Billybob62]

[QUOTE=BRad704;2738736]Thanks y'all. Some good new info to consider here.

I do know that I'm not looking to spend $300+ on the Juintech's. Seems to be coming to Spyres vs BB7's. And good compressionless hosting is vital.


https://www.amazon.com/JUIN-TECH-Hydraulic-Brake-JT1902/dp/B085FZ16QL/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=juin+tech+r1&qid=1592051372&sr=8-1

[wallymann]

I do know that I'm not looking to spend $300+ on the Juintech's.

i paid $230/pair for GT calipers (4 piston, current/latest design). prior design like the X1 calipers (2 piston) can be had for like $175/pair and the R1s for even less.

[BRad704]

Dang everything I was finding was double that much.

These could be a winner then.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085G381QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_z6m5Eb2VCKJJC



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[d_douglas]

I have the Juintechs and they’re great. TRP seems to be the standard though. I don’t hear much bad about them.

I have a NEVER USED flatmount set from another bike if you need em!

[BRad704]

I have the Juintechs and they’re great. TRP seems to be the standard though. I don’t hear much bad about them.



I have a NEVER USED flatmount set from another bike if you need em!



Thanks. I may hit you up on those. But now, as all plans change during a build, I've got a bit of a connection on some 8070 di2 hydro shifters.


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[Smitty2k1]

I'm switching over my BB7 w/ cheap pands, cheap jagwire housing and bottom tier Shimano rotors to Spyres with Swissstop green pads, jagwire compressionless, and Shimano ice tech rotors this weekend.

Not that stopping power has been a problem, but my previous components were used and no amount of alcohol and sandpaper could get rid of the squealing.

[mktng]

TRP Spyres are about as good as it gets for mechanical. Factoring in performance and cost.

Set up with proper cables and housing. They grab just as nice as some hydraulic offerings.

The benefit to full mechanical. Is ease of service, and weight.

[GimmeSerotta]

Since no one has posted it - Paul Klampers are great.

[robt57]

I have had the SLC spyres, and still have one on a rear with a HY/RD up front on my Strong All Road. The Helix Disc I just built up I went with the Spyre non SLC, 92.00 shipped eBay. I like the cable mounting point on the non SLC better. The reason I choose is because the SLC there is no way to alter the cable mount to change lever ratio. I was thinking about trying Ergo with them, but did not in the end.

I did do a cable ratio alteration on a Redline Conquest, 5800 Shifters, but I only had MTB BB7s, And the bike was all black and silver road BB7s would have looked stupid and I'd have to had bought them anyway. MTB kit was here already.

Compressionless JAG wire housings, polished cable [rear] and my requisite front swiss Stop green ads front. I did a kind of Shedon Brown Shemergo cable entry under the back side of the cable mount bolt from under the arm to change pull ratio and it worked great, and performance was just as good as this Helix I just did. As in excellent for stopping this Clyde.

Pic of MTB cable route mod/path on Conquest:

[robt57]

Since no one has posted it - Paul Klampers are great.

I have considered them on a few occasions. But posts in Tandem forums stating other systems worked better and the cost added up to not going that route.

Never touched one, so not more than here-say admittedly. Was good enough for me...

___
I grabbed a Trek Portland frame/fork in mint shape for dirt. Both for dirt price wise and for a dirt build. Got some BB7 silver road parts I got from Wallymann cheap been sitting around I will use. Gravel bike for my wife. Black would look better, but for this cheapo ghetto build for wife and loaner for friends when wife is not using.. yada.

Will get Swis Stop green organics front. Also, just FYI, I don't use polished cables for fronts, I don't bother after doing a test of normal SS Shimano and changed to JAG polished. Such a short run no need to spend on it IMO.

That reminds me, the JAG housings did not arrive in time for that Conquest build. I used Shimano housings figuring to change out when the JAG parts came. Never changed the housing, worked excellent with the Shimano. FWIW, I did use the JAG polished cable for the rear...

Will add: Have a Lynskey ProCx mogrelized into a 650b Gravel Beasty. It is bar cons with the TRP Hylex Hydro system, green swiss stop organic pads front as always. The lever feel is a tad better than the cable systems, doesn't stop any better. I am good either way personally. Still have Juicey Avids on my Smithsonial 29er converted 27.5, lever feel just like the Hylex.

[zap]

Just back from a tandem ride....Paul Klampers are fantastic. Had BB7's before but they do not match up all that well with Campy.

I was considering the Yokozuna calipers but their communication was zilch so I went with a firm that communicates with end users.

[ciclista_tifoso]

The Spyres are the best mechanical disc caliper IMHO. The only thing nicer is the SLC version with the carbon lever arms (I have some if you're looking).

I have Paul's Klampers too, in case anyone is going to suggest those.


I have the SLC version of the spyres on my 2019 Emonda SLR, and would echo the above. Very responsive - i've had the bike for over 18 months and the brakes have always worked as expected, if not better (i come from ultegra rim brakes).

(Side-note: i'm actually selling my Emonda to help fund a titanium build)

.

[Old School]

The new Origin8 look very similar. I do not know, and perhaps nobody in the Western World know, if these are the same, a knockoff, or the original manufacturer.

https://blueskycycling.com/collections/all/products/origin8-vise-road-mechanical-hydraulic-flat-mount-disc-brake

[BRad704]

To bring it all full circle, I ordered the Juintech F1's and a set of Sram Centerline 160's. Hopefully I'll have the bike built by next weekend. [emoji846]


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[merlinmurph]

Ahhhh, always like to have closure!

Let us know how they work out.

[robt57]

I thought Bluesky used to be good bargains? $200.00 pair is the sale price?? Aren't the actual brand version on eBay for like 60.00 less?

The new Origin8 look very similar. I do not know, and perhaps nobody in the Western World know, if these are the same, a knockoff, or the original manufacturer.

https://blueskycycling.com/collections/all/products/origin8-vise-road-mechanical-hydraulic-flat-mount-disc-brake

[robt57]

Anyone else have used the Spyre and SLC versions? I have used both and assume they work compatibly out of the boxes.

Although the setup I have now of the non SLC is a lot better than my last SLC in function. The better cables/housings and Swiss stop pads being the difference, noticeable difference.

[Old School]

I thought Bluesky used to be good bargains? $200.00 pair is the sale price?? Aren't the actual brand version on eBay for like 60.00 less?

I found that interesting as well. In fact, it seems like that the only thing on BlueSky that is anywhere near retail price.

I also note, it was somewhat difficult to find my regular sources selling the NEW caliper. Difficult being a relative term of course, meaning a 3 minute search on DuckDuckGo and a drive-by of all my favorite webstores.

The cable / hydraulic Origin8 Vise is more than BlueSky on ebay, on Amazon and everywhere else I could see.

[BRad704]

Epilogue.


First ride on the new bike today for 66 miles and 2800' of climbing. Did all the brake bedding before I ever reached the park with the hills.

The Juintech F1's are everything I expected and more. Using Sram Centerline rotors 160/160 and compressionless housings. Modulation and lever feel on the descents and hard braking were spot on.

I'll be buying another set for my Crockett to replace the Spyres before CX season.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/149897975519aeb2bbd1fc11ab7d5fac.jpg
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[Smitty2k1]

Chiming in to say I got my Spyres/Swissstop/Icetech installed during the week. Didn't do compressionless housing yet because I don't have another set of handlebar tape on hand. Did some minor bedding in and a 30 mile ride which went fine. Not enough experience (or proper install and bed in) to discuss improvements over my BB7s with cheap pads and rotors.

However, one item I do want to discuss is setting the height of the caliper on the rotor. I've got IS mounts on my frame and fork and post mount calipers. I just reused all the adapters and conical washers from the BB7s for the Spyres but felt the calipers were sitting too high. Then I removed the lower conical washers from between the caliper and adapter but it seemed then the calipers were too low. So I just threw a couple thin washers in as spacers. However this was all confusing because I thought only the BB7s needed the conical washers and thus the Spyres should have fit well without them.

Also it's hard to actually see where exactly the pad is making contact with the rotor to determine the right height, so once I put in a few more miles I suppose I'll check to look at the wear pattern.

Here's a reddit post with some photos if anyone cares to look: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/hatsbv

[Duende]

Save your money and upgrade your brake/shifters so that you can run hydro with your group

[BRad704]

Save your money and upgrade your brake/shifters so that you can run hydro with your group



After building an Emonda SLR with Ultegra Hydros last week, and then building my SL7 with cable/hydro.... I'm not sure I see full hydro as a blanket upgrade anymore.


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[mistermo]

Juintech with Yokuzuna cables.

Ive used BB7s, and TRP Spyres as well. The Juintechs w/ Yokuzunas are my favorites but hydraulic is better.

[robt57]

I'll be buying another set for my Crockett to replace the Spyres before CX season.



What pads did your spyres have?

If originals, garbage IMO.

[BRad704]

What pads did your spyres have?



If originals, garbage IMO.



Yah they're the original pads. I guess new pads woulda make the most sense to try first.


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[cabriggs]

What pads did your spyres have?

If originals, garbage IMO.

I have Spyres with original pads too. Any specific recommendations on replacement pads? I've seen suggestions for SwissStop, Kool-Stop, and TruckerCo. Thanks.

[robt57]

I have Spyres with original pads too. Any specific recommendations on replacement pads? I've seen suggestions for SwissStop, Kool-Stop, and TruckerCo. Thanks.

I find the swiss stop green organics a major improvement. Using them up front on everything. Don't bother on rear, don't want better rear brake. And the orig TRPs wet, OMG!