Campy Zonda Front Hub Disassemble Q

[flying]

Can anyone who has rebuilt the Zonda front hub comment on this problem I'm having?

I have noticed some creaking so went to check adjustment on front hub bearing etc

I notice the cone adjustment does not have any reaction to full loose or tightening which more so makes me want to open & rebuild it/grease etc.

But when I go to take the axle end cap apart the wrong side comes loose.

Meaning of the two 5mm ends of the axle...The side with the cone adjust ring is suppose to loosen but on mine the opposite side does making it impossible to pull axle as I need to remove the 5mm on the adjust ring side of wheel

I am worried about clamping the opposite of the adjustment end as I may deform it.

Anyone run into this?

Thanks for any info/help

[Ralph]

I just did this a couple day ago. No issues at all. Did you pop the plastic side plate off, where it snaps up around the spokes. My Zonda's are around 2013 or 2014 versions. Gotta think about it.

There is a U tube.

[flying]

I just did this a couple day ago. No issues at all. Did you pop the plastic side plate off, where it snaps up around the spokes. My Zonda's are around 2013 or 2014 versions.

There is a U tube.


Thanks & yes I did pry that ring off but....That is another difference between older & newer Zonda's

Mine are the 2018 C17 models & that plastic cap is not out to the spokes but a smaller ring & was not easy to get off while trying not to deform it & also was tough getting back on when I abandoned :)

See pics below


https://i.postimg.cc/4m8dbXw6/IMG-20200606-154432038-HDR.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4m8dbXw6)

https://i.postimg.cc/3yGxTmh1/IMG-20200606-154532973-HDR.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3yGxTmh1)

[Ralph]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Service+Campagnolo+Zonda+front+hub&docid=608003460041212287&mid=1F8CE6CB622F115E2A721F8CE6CB622F115E2A72&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

[flying]

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Service+Campagnolo+Zonda+front+hub&docid=608003460041212287&mid=1F8CE6CB622F115E2A721F8CE6CB622F115E2A72&view=detail&FORM=VIRE


Yes that is the video I initially watched too...before I found out these are different. Does not help that even Campy Site has only that older style tech manuals

Everything I have read on it state that non adjust side is fixed & does not come off so I was surprised when mine spun off

So on these on the adjusting ring side you cannot remove that dust cap as it is under the adjusting ring which should spin off after 5mm bolt is removed but again the opposite side spun off instead:confused:

[Ralph]

Don't have a clue. Mine won't come off. Maybe OP will chime in in AM. Good luck.

[oldpotatoe]

Can anyone who has rebuilt the Zonda front hub comment on this problem I'm having?

I have noticed some creaking so went to check adjustment on front hub bearing etc

I notice the cone adjustment does not have any reaction to full loose or tightening which more so makes me want to open & rebuild it/grease etc.

But when I go to take the axle end cap apart the wrong side comes loose.

Meaning of the two 5mm ends of the axle...The side with the cone adjust ring is suppose to loosen but on mine the opposite side does making it impossible to pull axle as I need to remove the 5mm on the adjust ring side of wheel

I am worried about clamping the opposite of the adjustment end as I may deform it.

Anyone run into this?

Thanks for any info/help

I don't have one here but the 5mm axle end is coming loose on the side opposite the adjust plate..right? VERY unusual as this is 'supposed' to be a one piece unit. Can you take a pic(larger) of the axle end off the axle? It's threaded??

[Dave]

I have newer zondas and have figured out a few things. I tried to take my axle out, but had the same problem. The non-adjustable axle end came off, by turning the 5mm hex wrenches counterclockwise, assuming a RH thread.

I then made the mistake of trying to turn the wrenches clockwise, but that didn't work. I then tried my second front wheel, that I've had apart. Both sides do have right hand threads. There are wrench flats on the non-adjustable axle side, but a cone wrench will most likely not hold and strip the flats. Don't try to loosen the adjustable side end cap without the other end cap screwed in, or you may mishape the axle and not be able to thread the end cap back in.

I'm going to assume that the axle end on the adjustable side will never come off and I'll destroy at least one end cap and maybe the axle too, whenever I decide to overhaul that hub. Seems like one end should have had left hand threads, so removing the adjustable side end cap tightens the other one.

[flying]

I don't have one here but the 5mm axle end is coming loose on the side opposite the adjust plate..right? VERY unusual as this is 'supposed' to be a one piece unit. Can you take a pic(larger) of the axle end off the axle? It's threaded??

Yes the 5mm opposite side of adjust plate & Yes Very Unusual as all Campy tech manuals claim the opposite:confused:
Meaning that side is supposed to remain fixed. But then again all manuals show the older type with the larger dust caps out to the spokes

Yes the non adjust side was threaded & very fine thread too & was easy to restart because I did try as the Dave described to grab the flats & remove the other side with fixed side removed

Luckily I did finally get the non fixed side re-threaded and called it a day
I have no play as stated previously but thought it odd that I could also not induce any play which is why I was going to rebuild it.

I have also emailed Campy USA & will see if I can get an answer from them too

Thanks

[flying]

I have newer zondas and have figured out a few things. I tried to take my axle out, but had the same problem. The non-adjustable axle end came off, by turning the 5mm hex wrenches counterclockwise, assuming a RH thread.

I then made the mistake of trying to turn the wrenches clockwise, but that didn't work. I then tried my second front wheel, that I've had apart. Both sides do have right hand threads. There are wrench flats on the non-adjustable axle side, but a cone wrench will most likely not hold and strip the flats. Don't try to loosen the adjustable side end cap without the other end cap screwed in, or you may mishape the axle and not be able to thread the end cap back in.

I'm going to assume that the axle end on the adjustable side will never come off and I'll destroy at least one end cap and maybe the axle too, whenever I decide to overhaul that hub. Seems like one end should have had left hand threads, so removing the adjustable side end cap tightens the other one.


Hi Dave & thanks for the info

Your experience is the exact same as mine & I wish I had asked you before trying ;)

Because I did just as you described after getting the wrong side loose & tried to grab the flats with a wrench & loosen the adjustable side which just as you said results in slipping on flats.

I was worried if I clamped anything greater than a wrench it may deform the hollow axle & I would never get that fine threaded 5mm back in.

So I reassembled it & called it a day.

On yours did you also notice you could not induce play in axle by loosening the adjustable ring as loose as it could go?

Thanks for sharing your experience :beer:

[Dave]

To induce play, the bearing adjuster must be loosened first. Then tap lightly on the end of the axle on the adjuster side. That should do it.

I've come to the conclusion that the axle end will never come off without buggering up something. A pair of thin jawed vice grip pliers might hold, but it will chew up the aluminum axle. Of course the axle end must be left on because the axle is very thin walled.

[flying]

To induce play, the bearing adjuster must be loosened first.
Then tap lightly on the end of the axle on the adjuster side. That should do it.

I've come to the conclusion that the axle end will never come off without buggering up something.
A pair of thin jawed vice grip pliers might hold, but it will chew up the aluminum axle.
Of course the axle end must be left on because the axle is very thin walled.


Thanks for that info to induce play & yes I agree axle will get buggered if clamped & could only be clamped with that 5mm in place.
Then as you say you would need basically a needle nosed vise grip as that 5mm has that larger than axle built in washer

Really odd situation!

I will post any info service@campagnolona.com shares ;)

[Dave]

Here's a possible solution. If the wrong end of the axle comes loose, clean the threads, apply red loctite and reassemble. Let the loctite cure for a couple of days and then try to disassemble.

I see the spare parts catalogs fail to show the correct parts.

[flying]

Here's a possible solution. If the wrong end of the axle comes loose, clean the threads, apply red loctite and reassemble. Let the loctite cure for a couple of days and then try to disassemble.

I see the spare parts catalogs fail to show the correct parts.

I guess that is a possibility as long as later that side doesn't need to be removed for axle removal :)

Yes as you said all spare part manuals & tech manuals are of the old style wheels/axle

You know it makes me wonder as mine were super tight to even break that 5mm loose

I wonder if they actually went the way you mentioned previously & made the new model reverse threaded on the adjusting side?

That would explain a lot:confused:

[Dave]

I have two sets of the newer model. I've had the other front hub apart and no it's not left hand threaded. I loosened the adjuster side axle end, just today.

[m_sasso]

Like Peter said, been using oversized axel hubs back to 1999 and never seen the non adjustable axel side end cap as a separate piece. All the parts catalogs I have or are available on the Campagnolo support back to 99 show the axel and nonadjustable end cap as one piece.

What is strange is the 2017 parts catalog shows the Zonda front axel as not having threads for the adjuster to thread on to the axel and adjust the cones however it is still showing the axel and nonadjustable end cap as one piece.

Something must have changed, please post up some pictures, my 2017 Eurus and Shamal Ultra's are not built this way.

[flying]

I have two sets of the newer model. I've had the other front hub apart and no it's not left hand threaded. I loosened the adjuster side axle end, just today.

So you did get that 5mm end of the adjuster side?

Did it just happen to break loose before the non adjust side?

Now I'm really confused hahah

Thanks

[Dave]

Yes, the adjuster side axle end came loose first on one of my wheels. The other end doesn't need to be removed.

[flying]

Yes, the adjuster side axle end came loose first on one of my wheels. The other end doesn't need to be removed.

Thanks for that at least I know now that
it is in fact standard direction threaded & that it does come off.

[Dave]

I took my own advice and applied red loctite to the threads on the axle end of the non-adjustable side. This morning, I managed to remove the other end of the axle, without stripping the 5mm hex socket. The axle can then be removed with no problem.

Some sort of thread locker should have been applied at the factory to prevent this problem, IMO. I also won't tighten the axle end so tight. I had to apply a ridiculous amount of torque to loosen the axle end. I also put some anti-sieze on the threads.

[flying]

I took my own advice and applied red loctite to the threads on the axle end of the non-adjustable side. This morning, I managed to remove the other end of the axle, without stripping the 5mm hex socket. The axle can then be removed with no problem.

Some sort of thread locker should have been applied at the factory to prevent this problem, IMO. I also won't tighten the axle end so tight. I had to apply a ridiculous amount of torque to loosen the axle end. I also put some anti-sieze on the threads.


Thank You Dave for this ^^^

I will do the same as soon as I get some red loctite

I also agree about the ridiculous amount of torque to loosen the axle end!!!

I was afraid I was going to snap something loosening it myself & thought it must be reverse thread or....Till that non adjustable side broke free

Anyway thanks again for sussing this out. ;)

[flying]

I did get a reply from Campagnolo support today & it is very helpful too;)

They said yes on new Zonda, Shamal & Bora's both end caps are removable & the answer is to use a 14mm wench on the flats of the non adjustable side
BUT only with that end cap in place or you will slip as I did because soft alloy with cap off :no:

I will paste his answer & also attach file he sent as photo for others


-----------copied & pasted email response---------------

The newer Zonda, Bora and Shamal have moved to a system where both end caps are removable.
Therefore it is important to leave the end cap in place on the non-adjustment side and use a 14mm box wrench on the flat slot of the axle on that same side.
Then, with the wrench holding the axle in place you can use a 5mm hex to remove the adjustment side end cap.
It is important NOT to use the 14mm wrench on the axle if the end cap on that side has been removed.
Without the end camp in place the wrench which ovalize the axle since it is softer aluminum.
Make sure to use a very well fitting 14mm wrench to avoid rounding the axle.



Beyond that the maintenance procedure is exactly the same.
I’ve also attached the technical bulletin that mentions this new procedure. Hopefully this helps!

-------------end pasted email----------------


https://i.postimg.cc/Vvmy5c91/zonda-adjust.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LYCQ0w00)

[Dave]

The only problem with that suggestion is the flats are too narrow to withstand much torque. A cone wrench is almost guaranteed to round off the flats and standard wrenches are too wide. I had a cheap standard 14mm wrench in my tool box and used my disc sander to thin it just enough to fit.

[flying]

The only problem with that suggestion is the flats are too narrow to withstand much torque. A cone wrench is almost guaranteed to round off the flats and standard wrenches are too wide. I had a cheap standard 14mm wrench in my tool box and used my disc sander to thin it just enough to fit.


In my case they also wanted to round but I had that 5mm end cap out so probably made it easier to deform

I'm thinking I like your red loctite idea still ;)