Suggest a spray degreaser for sealed bearing cartridges?

[mokofoko]

I'm about to degrease and repack the cartridges in some Campy Bullet hubs (rear axle spins a bit gritty by hand with any sort of preload), and I'm having trouble picking out a spray degreaser. I prefer Finish Line Speed Degreaser, but with many bike shops currently closed, it's not an option...

Please suggest something you've tried that fits these criteria?
1). aerosol spray, non-foaming, non-citrus?
2). readily available from a common essential store (walmart, home depot, etc)
3). leaves no residue behind

Some videos and comments I've seen online suggest standard WD-40, but I'm concerned about the lubricant film it will leave behind. CRC brakekleen is also a common suggestion, but I've tried that in the past and it shriveled up the rubber cartridge shields (absolutely unacceptable!). No easy access to 99% isopropyl due to the pandemic, and I'd prefer not to mess with gas as I'm opting not to remove the cartridges from the hubs at this time. My current choices to go with are White Lightning Clean Streak Degreaser or WD-40 Bike Degreaser (apparently foaming though).

Please suggest what has worked for you in the past... I've already wasted 2+ hours reading and watching videos, and I've yet to find any real consensus on this topic. I plan to do the work tomorrow afternoon, so prompt suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks much.

[Steve in SLO]

Assuming you are going to use a dental pick or some other sharp implement to pick out the seal and expose the bearings?
If so, odorless mineral spirits has worked well for me in the past. Just soak them, Then use a toothbrush, toothpick or something similar to pick out and scour away old grease from the bearings.
The OMS will evaporate fairly quickly, and you can then pack the bearing cartridge to the brim and press the seal back in place.
Oops. Missed the aerosol part of it. Substitute the words “Brake cleaner“ for OMS.

[Peter P.]

Assuming you ... “Brake cleaner“ for OMS.

OP needs it in a spray can because he's not removing the bearings from the hub. OMS doesn't meet that criteria.

[Steve in SLO]

OP needs it in a spray can because he's not removing the bearings from the hub. OMS doesn't meet that criteria.
Yep. See my last line...saw it after my initial reply.

[Peter P.]

Yep. See my last line...saw it after my initial reply.

Thanks. I'm not sure there's a product the OP will find to do what he needs.

I'd say flush the bearings with WD-40, then blow out with a can of compressed air. That's about as close as I can come up with for a solution.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm about to degrease and repack the cartridges in some Campy Bullet hubs (rear axle spins a bit gritty by hand with any sort of preload), and I'm having trouble picking out a spray degreaser. I prefer Finish Line Speed Degreaser, but with many bike shops currently closed, it's not an option...

Please suggest something you've tried that fits these criteria?
1). aerosol spray, non-foaming, non-citrus?
2). readily available from a common essential store (walmart, home depot, etc)
3). leaves no residue behind

Some videos and comments I've seen online suggest standard WD-40, but I'm concerned about the lubricant film it will leave behind. CRC brakekleen is also a common suggestion, but I've tried that in the past and it shriveled up the rubber cartridge shields (absolutely unacceptable!). No easy access to 99% isopropyl due to the pandemic, and I'd prefer not to mess with gas as I'm opting not to remove the cartridges from the hubs at this time. My current choices to go with are White Lightning Clean Streak Degreaser or WD-40 Bike Degreaser (apparently foaming though).

Please suggest what has worked for you in the past... I've already wasted 2+ hours reading and watching videos, and I've yet to find any real consensus on this topic. I plan to do the work tomorrow afternoon, so prompt suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks much.

Couple of things..
-Is it the rear hub bearing or a bearing in the free hub body that is gritty?
If it's the lower bearing in the FHB..really tough to access w/o removing it. Possible but difficult.

-Anything that you use to flush out the bearings(assuming you pry off the seals to expose the bearings and then try to flush)..it's going to take a while to have that whatever evaporate completely. If you don't, then adding grease to that solvent will render the added grease not as effective.

I know you don't want to do that but I'd recommend replacement of any bearing that feels like its toasted..
I'd say flush the bearings with WD-40, then blow out with a can of compressed air. That's about as close as I can come up with for a solution.
__________________

I agree and even WD40 will leave behind some 'lubricant'..but I've never been a fan of 'unseal/flush/regreease/seal back on'..for cart bearings.

[oldguy00]

I think the folks at BBinfinite recommend white lightning clean streak aerosol

[mokofoko]

Thanks all... as no new products were mentioned that fit the criteria, I think I'll go with my previous plan, which was to start with a first pass of WD-40, then do a final cleanup with white lightning clean streak (since it's non-foaming and apparently leaves no residue behind).

When I'm done I'll post with my results in case anyone else runs into a similar situation.

[mokofoko]

Assuming you are going to use a dental pick or some other sharp implement to pick out the seal and expose the bearings?
If so, odorless mineral spirits has worked well for me in the past. Just soak them, Then use a toothbrush, toothpick or something similar to pick out and scour away old grease from the bearings.
The OMS will evaporate fairly quickly, and you can then pack the bearing cartridge to the brim and press the seal back in place.
Oops. Missed the aerosol part of it. Substitute the words “Brake cleaner“ for OMS.
Thanks for the suggestion--I do have mineral spirits onhand, but not sure I want that liberally soaking in the hub area for a time. The one brake cleaner I used before for carts completely messed up the rubber shields, so I'm wary of trying any similar products.

Using a razor blade to pry off the seal--done it many times, no problems. I've tried a pick before and it didn't work as well.

Thanks. I'm not sure there's a product the OP will find to do what he needs.

I'd say flush the bearings with WD-40, then blow out with a can of compressed air. That's about as close as I can come up with for a solution.
At the very least, white lighting clean streak is supposed to meet all of the criteria listed... but I don't know how good it really is.

I just can't believe that there's no other similar product to Finish Line's Speed Degreaser readily available from a non-bike shop.
Couple of things..
-Is it the rear hub bearing or a bearing in the free hub body that is gritty?
If it's the lower bearing in the FHB..really tough to access w/o removing it. Possible but difficult.

-Anything that you use to flush out the bearings(assuming you pry off the seals to expose the bearings and then try to flush)..it's going to take a while to have that whatever evaporate completely. If you don't, then adding grease to that solvent will render the added grease not as effective.

I know you don't want to do that but I'd recommend replacement of any bearing that feels like its toasted..


I agree and even WD40 will leave behind some 'lubricant'..but I've never been a fan of 'unseal/flush/regreease/seal back on'..for cart bearings.
Hubs, freehub body is fine I believe. Applying pressure against the non-driveside has it feeling a bit rough, despite still being packed with grease. I agree it would be best to remove or replace for repacking, but I don't have the press/removal tools onhand, and the turnaround time for repairs at my LBS is 1+ week which is just way too long.

Not detecting any play, so the bearings are probably still fine (and the wheelset is less than 2 years old). Assuming just a little grit got in, which is why I"m attempting this before opting for a cartridge replacement.

I will be spraying everything down with air and waiting for a full dry overnight.

I think the folks at BBinfinite recommend white lightning clean streak aerosol

I've heard some good things about it recently, but it's hard to know what's marketing hype or general consumer praise (which means little). Will give it a shot, since it's available in all the local walmart bike sections... I guess no one here has actually use it for cleaning out cartridge bearings? I've seen 3-4 videos of people spraying down bearing cartridges with standard WD-40, but it just seems like a terrible idea to have that lubricant mixed in with the grease...

[charliedid]

Isn't the finishline spray just brake cleaner? Stuff is nasty.

[bart998]

I also have Bullet wheels and cleaned/lubed the bearing recently... I usually use Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner for this purpose... spray can, dissolves grease and deposits, evaporates quickly and leaves no oily residue to dilute/contaminate the new grease... a plus is it's cheap ($4) and widely available at most auto parts stores and Walmart.

[m_sasso]

This will do the job, evaporates super fast, dissolves oils, non-polar lubricants and zero residue. It is also certified for use in food facilities so very clean.

Should be able to pick it up from any good electronics retailer.

https://www.diverseelectronics.com/upload/products/MG-409B-340G.jpg

[mokofoko]

I also have Bullet wheels and cleaned/lubed the bearing recently... I usually use Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner for this purpose... spray can, dissolves grease and deposits, evaporates quickly and leaves no oily residue to dilute/contaminate the new grease... a plus is it's cheap ($4) and widely available at most auto parts stores and Walmart.
Interesting, same situation--carts still seated during the clean? And it didn't cause any damage or leave any smells etc? I may have to give that a shot. $3.18 at walmart, half the price of the white lightning.

This will do the job, evaporates super fast, dissolves oils, non-polar lubricants and zero residue. It is also certified for use in food facilities so very clean.

Should be able to pick it up from any good electronics retailer.

https://www.diverseelectronics.com/upload/products/MG-409B-340G.jpg
I think I saw that recommended elsewhere, but I'm not quite sure where I'd find it locally, and the google locator is no help for this one. CRC contact cleaner is carried at Lowes, probably something I should have in my kit anyhow.

[bart998]

Yes, I leave the bearings in... just take-off the seals, spray them clean, blow out any debris or residual liquid with a compressor or even canned air for computers... re-grease with a quality lube like Park or Phil, put the seals back and go on your way.

Interesting, same situation--carts still seated during the clean? And it didn't cause any damage or leave any smells etc? I may have to give that a shot. $3.18 at walmart, half the price of the white lightning.


I think I saw that recommended elsewhere, but I'm not quite sure where I'd find it locally, and the google locator is no help for this one. CRC contact cleaner is carried at Lowes, probably something I should have in my kit anyhow.

[mokofoko]

Yes, I leave the bearings in... just take-off the seals, spray them clean, blow out any debris or residual liquid with a compressor or even canned air for computers... re-grease with a quality lube like Park or Phil, put the seals back and go on your way.

Thanks, have a followup on the grease topic since you mentioned it.

Thoughts on Phil vs Park for sealed cartridges? Park is thinner, but heard lots of stories of people ruining their bearings (rusted/pitted due to moisture, contamination, etc). With Phil Wood grease though, it's plenty thick so might not be the best choice for sealed cartridges, especially if you really pack it in? As much as I love Phil Woods longevity, introducing drag is no fun. Never tried phil grease for sealed cartridges--did it work well for you?

[Peter P.]

Never tried phil grease for sealed cartridges--...?

From the Phil Wood website:

"Our Standard bearings are an extremely high quality stainless steel cartridge bearing with a 100% Phil Waterproof Grease fill..."

Coincidence: Today I ordered new bearings from Phil Wood for my cassette hub.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks, have a followup on the grease topic since you mentioned it.

Thoughts on Phil vs Park for sealed cartridges? Park is thinner, but heard lots of stories of people ruining their bearings (rusted/pitted due to moisture, contamination, etc). With Phil Wood grease though, it's plenty thick so might not be the best choice for sealed cartridges, especially if you really pack it in? As much as I love Phil Woods longevity, introducing drag is no fun. Never tried phil grease for sealed cartridges--did it work well for you?

Grease is 'oil in soap'..any grease will do fine. I prefer a lighter color so you can see when it's dirty. Any draggy issues are lost in the noise..Only place you will 'feel' that is spinning axle in the our hand..you won't 'feel' anything when riding.
PLUS, "Bike" grease is more expensive cuz it's 'bike' grease.
I get a 500g tub of white lithium and 500g tub of blue 'boat' grease and mix 50-50..pretty light blue color, really inexpensive..good enough for a car or boat, good enough for a bike hub.

Can't really use too much grease..if some ooozes out, good seal from outside crud..

[mokofoko]

From the Phil Wood website:

"Our Standard bearings are an extremely high quality stainless steel cartridge bearing with a 100% Phil Waterproof Grease fill..."

Coincidence: Today I ordered new bearings from Phil Wood for my cassette hub.

Grease is 'oil in soap'..any grease will do fine. I prefer a lighter color so you can see when it's dirty. Any draggy issues are lost in the noise..Only place you will 'feel' that is spinning axle in the our hand..you won't 'feel' anything when riding.
PLUS, "Bike" grease is more expensive cuz it's 'bike' grease.
I get a 500g tub of white lithium and 500g tub of blue 'boat' grease and mix 50-50..pretty light blue color, really inexpensive..good enough for a car or boat, good enough for a bike hub.

Can't really use too much grease..if some ooozes out, good seal from outside crud..

I ended up going with the phil wood grease I had onhand--and packed it tight. After a week or two of riding things freed up nicely--I could tell a good amount must have worked itself outside the seals.

I've been reading enough that I believe you when you say that bike grease is just grease and nothing special. That said, stick me in the "fool" category for electing to pay the exorbitant rates for the bike-branded stuff. I just don't use the stuff in enough volume to impact the wallet much. It is nice to just grab a tube and go...

[oldguy00]

Did anyone else ever have a tub of this stuff?
Was like a religious experience packing a new campy bottom bracket with this stuff back in the day (so for me, like '89/'90)... :)

[mokofoko]

Quick followup question for future work. After doing further research, it seems like electrical contact cleaners are the best option for future jobs--seems there are no real downsides to it aside from price.

The brake cleaner option dries clean, but isn't safe for paint (?) and will potentially damage rubber seals if used in copious amounts.

Carb/choke cleaner (which I used this time) is really effective (especially the red chlorinated type!), but is apparently unsafe for both paint and plastics. Plus it leaves behind some lubricant--not good.

Most of the good/expensive electrical contact cleaner options (see previous page) are mainly available in specialty stores, and about the only thing I could find locally is this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418
Has anyone tried it for bike jobs covering plastics/paint?

Would this be in any way superior? (only other option I could find locally at a big box store)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
Also saw this on the shelf at HD. Packaging says it leaves no residue, but every WD product I've ever used seemingly left behind some kind of lubrication:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-30055/307599950

[Ozz]

I'm about to degrease and repack the cartridges in some Campy Bullet hubs (rear axle spins a bit gritty by hand with any sort of preload), and I'm having trouble picking out a spray degreaser. I prefer Finish Line Speed Degreaser, but with many bike shops currently closed, it's not an option......

I know it is not on your list of purchase locations, but I just bought a 3 pack via Amazon.

REI sometimes carries it as well...

[mokofoko]

I know it is not on your list of purchase locations, but I just bought a 3 pack via Amazon.

REI sometimes carries it as well...

I think I saw that, but I'm all about the instant gratification--I want stuff, and I want it now (even if I have to drive all over town).

Wish there was an REI close by. My favorite B&M store. They really need to consider opening more locations.

[oldpotatoe]

Did anyone else ever have a tub of this stuff?
Was like a religious experience packing a new campy bottom bracket with this stuff back in the day (so for me, like '89/'90)... :)

Still do and used on Campagnolo stuff only..still about 1/2 full. :)

[mokofoko]

Quick followup question for future work. After doing further research, it seems like electrical contact cleaners are the best option for future jobs--seems there are no real downsides to it aside from price.

The brake cleaner option dries clean, but isn't safe for paint (?) and will potentially damage rubber seals if used in copious amounts.

Carb/choke cleaner (which I used this time) is really effective (especially the red chlorinated type!), but is apparently unsafe for both paint and plastics. Plus it leaves behind some lubricant--not good.

Most of the good/expensive electrical contact cleaner options (see previous page) are mainly available in specialty stores, and about the only thing I could find locally is this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418
Has anyone tried it for bike jobs covering plastics/paint?

Would this be in any way superior? (only other option I could find locally at a big box store)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
Also saw this on the shelf at HD. Packaging says it leaves no residue, but every WD product I've ever used seemingly left behind some kind of lubrication:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-30055/307599950

Following up on this, I did a little testing of various sprays yesterday.

Super Tech Carb/Choke cleaner (walmart brand, cheap @ $2) --
works well, roughly equivalent to the gumout I've been using. Most DEFINITELY damages rubbers/plastics after only a few minutes of submersion. Otherwise works great for clearing out gunk without leaving behind any residue.

CRC QD Electrical Cleaner (red chlorinated can, $5) --
the best I've tried so far, but read those warnings (keep it off your skin). Dries quick, blasts through grime, leaves zero residue, and seemingly safe for use on paint/rubber/plastic. Rather pricey, but this will likely be my go-to cleanup choice. Note that there is an alternative CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can, non-chlorinated) at Home Depot (costs more @$8), and from the comparison research I did, the cheaper electrical cleaner is at least as effective to use (on the bike, not your skin).

WD-40 (regular stuff) --
while it doesn't tear through the gunk like the above, it was extremely effective in freeing up some seized caliper brakes. And while it does leave behind a film lubricant, it is seemingly safe to use on paint and plastics/rubbers.


My plan from this point forward will be to use brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner for cleanup of metals ONLY. When plastics, rubber seals, or paint are involved, I will be doing an initial spray down with WD-40 and/or degreaser, with a final pass of CRC Electrical Cleaner before moving on to applying my choice of lubricant.

[Lovetoclimb]

Bumping this as I need somewhat of a specific recommendation:

Per the CK hub service videos on their website, a “non-citrus” degreaser is to be used for cleaning out the bearings before fresh lube is applied. I would like to give it a go doing this simple service to the hubs. What degreaser would someone recommend that fits this bill? Keep in mind I’m in Germany and while we do have a Home Depot like store, I’m not exactly sure what they have. “Bike” focused degreasers would be easiest to get from a shop or website.

Many thanks

[.RJ]

but I've never been a fan of 'unseal/flush/regreease/seal back on'..for cart bearings.

Why? A flush of bearings after a muddy ride or race can keep them going just fine as long as you get to them quickly.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks for the post and sorry you’re having trouble with your Campy Bullet hubs! It can be a bummer when you don’t have access to a bike shop. I’d suggest you go with White Lightning Clean Streak Degreaser.

Another FNG biting onto a zombie thread(last post 18 months ago)...welcome to the jungle. :)