1" threaded headset spacers?

[mhespenheide]

Spacers for 1.125" threadless forks are all over the place. I can also easily find spacers for 1" threadless forks.

I'm wondering about the old-school spacers for threaded forks, 1", where the spacers go in between the first nut above the top portion of the headset and the threaded top cap that screws on to the top of the fork.

Does anyone have a contemporary source for these? Are they the same size as spacers for 1" threadless (I don't think so...)?

Thanks!

[thirdgenbird]

I used the same spacers with zero issue. Just keep the keyed washer there.

[ColonelJLloyd]

They are the same. You do need the one spacer/washer with the key below the top nut.

[RWL2222]

I used the same spacers with zero issue. Just keep the keyed washer there.

May I see a pic of your stem setup?

[David Kirk]

How thick do you need them to be and what color?

dave

[thirdgenbird]

May I see a pic of your stem setup?

Sure, it’s not the best picture but what I have. The spacer has machined slots so it looks a bit odd, but it met the gold theme.

[ddeand]

I picked up a set in various sizes on eBay a couple years ago. Here’s my 1980 Miyata Pro with A larger 1989 Pro fork. Shouldn’t be too hard to find.

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1034344/24600599/414430776.jpg

[RWL2222]

Sure, it’s not the best picture but what I have. The spacer has machined slots so it looks a bit odd, but it met the gold theme.


Thanks. Is the intent to give you more height on your existing quill stem, rather than changing to a different stem? That looks great.

[mhespenheide]

How thick do you need them to be and what color?

dave

Dave, thank you for the implied offer; I don't know yet. I bought a frame and fork off ebay and it looks like the steerer tube on the fork is long enough that I'm going to need spacers. But it's not here yet. I'm just trying to get ahead of any potential problems. (But silver!)

[mhespenheide]

Thanks. Is the intent to give you more height on your existing quill stem, rather than changing to a different stem? That looks great.

With an original frame and fork, the intent is to be able to raise the (quill) stem higher. So yes.

Alternately, a good shop would often use at least one small spacer so that if you ever wanted to use a different headset with a little more stack height, you weren't automatically SOL.

If the fork is not original to the frame, some extra spacers can save you the hassle of cutting down the fork, especially since many shops don't have the tools or practice to do it well at this point. It's an old-school skill by now.

[mhespenheide]

I used the same spacers with zero issue. Just keep the keyed washer there.

They are the same. You do need the one spacer/washer with the key below the top nut.

Awesome, thanks. I didn't know they were the same. I've got a couple random ones that might work, then, but at least I know I can find them if needed.

[donevwil]

My semi-recent Merckx purchase has a much longer steerer than head tube. That's a good thing for me, shown here massively zoomed with a 1" threadless spacer, but an extended HT lug would be more aesthetically pleasing IMO. Definitely need a thinner wall spacer to work with this headset. You can imagine how odd it would look with the era appropriate Campy headset.

1698000143

[mhespenheide]

My semi-recent Merckx purchase has a much longer steerer than head tube. That's a good thing for me, shown here massively zoomed with a 1" threadless spacer, but an extended HT lug would be more aesthetically pleasing IMO. Definitely need a thinner wall spacer to work with this headset. You can imagine how odd it would look with the era appropriate Campy headset.

1698000143

That needs a Freuler head tube! ;)

[thirdgenbird]

Thanks. Is the intent to give you more height on your existing quill stem, rather than changing to a different stem? That looks great.

My intent was to get the headset tight without cutting the fork shorter. My wife probably appreciates the extra height however.

[jemdet]

As others have said, threadless spacers are fine as long as you've got a keyed washer below the locknut. Keyed washers can be found on eBay.

I try to keep stack as low as possible but a spacer opens you open to a potential road repair. If it comes loose you can fix it with two adjustable wrenches. Much easier to find than a headset wrench.

[oldpotatoe]

Spacers for 1.125" threadless forks are all over the place. I can also easily find spacers for 1" threadless forks.

I'm wondering about the old-school spacers for threaded forks, 1", where the spacers go in between the first nut above the top portion of the headset and the threaded top cap that screws on to the top of the fork.

Does anyone have a contemporary source for these? Are they the same size as spacers for 1" threadless (I don't think so...)?

Thanks!

Same spacers..OD of steerer is the same..either headset, just one is threaded.

[martl]

Spacers for 1.125" threadless forks are all over the place. I can also easily find spacers for 1" threadless forks.

I'm wondering about the old-school spacers for threaded forks, 1", where the spacers go in between the first nut above the top portion of the headset and the threaded top cap that screws on to the top of the fork.

Does anyone have a contemporary source for these? Are they the same size as spacers for 1" threadless (I don't think so...)?

Thanks!

I do remember that "Brügelmann", high end bike Mail order pioneer here in Germany, had a huge warning about adding spacers to threaded headsets. (their printed catalogue was full of such little tips and hints, sometimes amusing to read today, based on their quite huge workshop experience, but also often driven by bike tech folklore more than engineering acumen..)

the gist was, we will sell small spacers, but don't come to us crying if you break your forks steerer tube.
They also advised strongly against using a fork where the length of the threading didn't exactly match up with the frame size, leaving too much threaded length in the open, so to speak.

[Mark McM]

I do remember that "Brügelmann", high end bike Mail order pioneer here in Germany, had a huge warning about adding spacers to threaded headsets. (their printed catalogue was full of such little tips and hints, sometimes amusing to read today, based on their quite huge workshop experience, but also often driven by bike tech folklore more than engineering acumen..)

the gist was, we will sell small spacers, but don't come to us crying if you break your forks steerer tube.
They also advised strongly against using a fork where the length of the threading didn't exactly match up with the frame size, leaving too much threaded length in the open, so to speak.

I'm having trouble understanding what the problem is with headset spacers. What's the difference between, say, a 200mm steerer with a 160mm headtube + 40mm headset, vs. the exact same 200mm steerer with a 140 mm headtube + 40mm headset + 20mm spacer? (particularly if used with the same stem, raised to the same height?)

[martl]

@Mark McM: beats me tbh.
let's gather some facts (interactive thinking)

1) a 1" steering tube is a flexy thing to begin with and cutting threads creates stress attack points, so in general you want to keep it as short as possible, especially for stronger/taller/heavier riders. (Steel shaft being more polite to both, flex and stress sensitivity, than aluminum)

What is the difference between having a 200mm steerer in a large frame with no spacers, and in a smaller frame *with spacers?

2) larger stick out (bigger lever)

3) bigger distance between top cap and counter nut

4) the point where the quill stem does its internal clamping may move closer to the upper bearing race

I don't think 4) is an issue as long as the spacer isn't so silly long that the clamp point moves to or even beyond the upper bearing race.

For 2) my engineering instincts fail me and I'd need a look at some FEM simulation which I don't have. Any thoughts?

I think a quill stem with a long shaft may cause similar problems (long lever) but it is the stem shaft that flexes, not the threaded steering tube - softer on the bearings, less stress on the threaded area. I guess the question is which fails earlier, the stem or the fork steering tube.

3) I do not see much reason why the locking nut would need to be close to the upper bearing race cup if the spacer is machined properly and assembled likewise (parallel surfaces, no grit on the contact area). It's purpose is to act as a counter (unscrew protection) for it nothing more.