Not another wheel question.....yup

[nortx-Dave]

I know I know. I hate threads where people ask what component to get.....or what wheels they should buy....or ask opinions about one brand versus another. But......here I am - asking a question regarding wheels.

I've been in Chris Bishop's queue for a couple of months and just yesterday learned that he's going to start building my frame within the next 4 - 6 weeks. :banana: I'm beyond excited! Now the fun begins - choosing components, paint etc.

I asked Chris to build me a steel bike with road race geometry that has room for 28 - 30 tires. I'm not interested in a "gravel" bike, but the chip and seal roads around me in rural North Texas beat me up on 25's, and there are short sections of gravel that connect pavement that I would like to ride also. I want a mechanical drivetrain and direct mount rim brakes.

I'm 155 pounds on a heavy day and in the middle of Summer get down to around to around 150. I'm a spinner and fairly easy on my equipment. I ride solo 95% of the time and like to push the pace as much as my 58 yr old body will allow - usually between 18 and 20 mph. I'm retired military so I ride daily - between 30 and 40 miles/day. Over the last 5 years since my retirement from the Army I've averaged about 8400 miles/year.

I've got a 10 year old Lynskey R331 with 67,500 miles on it and I've maxed out the tire space with 25's. I've used Fulcrum racing 5's (X2) and now ride Campy Zonda's on the Lynskey which I really like.

So....I've always thought Aluminum rims would be more durable and stand up to rough roads "better" than carbon. True? False?

I'm not going to beat the crap out of the Bishop, but I do plan to pile on the miles.

I value....#1 durability...#2 light weight.....#3 aerodynamics....#4 cost.

I'm going to use tubes - just because and I want a rim that can accomodate tires in the 30mm range.

This Bishop is going to be my dream bike and likely the last bike I ever buy. A one-and-done custom. So while I don't want to spend $3,000 on a wheelset, I will spend money on real performance.

I've spoken to Chris about using WI T11 hubs and maybe HED Belgiums or Ardennes + rims.......but think now that that approach might be overbuilt for me. Maybe I need something "snappier?"

[HTupolev]

So....I've always thought Aluminum rims would be more durable and stand up to rough roads "better" than carbon. True? False?
Structural rim failures in either aluminum or carbon are pretty rare. If you're not bottoming the tire out on a regular basis, there's not much reason to expect that it would fail either way. Even if you are bottoming the tire out on a regular basis, carbon isn't necessarily any worse than aluminum: aluminum rims are often still usable with minor dings, but they're also usually more susceptible to such dings.

I'm going to use tubes - just because and I want a rim that can accomodate tires in the 30mm range.
Pretty much every road rim ever made can accommodate tires in the 30mm range. Obviously if you want good aero with 30mm tires you'll need a fairly wide rim such as an ENVE 4.5 AR, but even the silly narrow 13mm-internal rims from the 1990s won't explode or something if you stick a 30mm tire on them.

This Bishop is going to be my dream bike and likely the last bike I ever buy.
"This is the last bicycle I'll ever need."
-Everybody, moments before taking receipt of a bicycle and beginning the process of shopping for their next bicycle

I will spend money on real performance.
Put aero above weight in your priority list. Wheel weight can easily be felt, but its impact on real performance is tiny compared with aero differences.

[steelbikerider]

Any of the top 3 rims, Easton HED or AF33 will work fine. Use 24/28 DA hubs, Sapim aero spokes and they will roll as well as any and last forever. At your average speeds, the aero advantage will be on the order of .2 - .3 mph max. You will get more aero advantage paying attention to clothing, positioning and a 2 cm reduction in handlebar width for less than the cost difference with carbon rims.
A Conti 5000 28 on a 19mm internal width rim measures a hair over 29mm.

[NHAero]

My used Firefly came with HED Belgiums spoked to WI T11 hubs. Lovely wheelset. I recently bought used set here on PL of Easton EC90SL rims laced to Tune hubs, and put somewhat light tires and tubes on, and cut over pound off the wheels. Feels pretty nifty even though I doubt I'm any faster.

I'm 5 lbs lighter than you. I bet you can get away with some light and aero wheels. This thread has a lot of good info:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=247830

And these wheels looked like very good value:
https://carbonbikewheels.com.au/us



I know I know. I hate threads where people ask what component to get.....or what wheels they should buy....or ask opinions about one brand versus another. But......here I am - asking a question regarding wheels.

I've been in Chris Bishop's queue for a couple of months and just yesterday learned that he's going to start building my frame within the next 4 - 6 weeks. :banana: I'm beyond excited! Now the fun begins - choosing components, paint etc.

I asked Chris to build me a steel bike with road race geometry that has room for 28 - 30 tires. I'm not interested in a "gravel" bike, but the chip and seal roads around me in rural North Texas beat me up on 25's, and there are short sections of gravel that connect pavement that I would like to ride also. I want a mechanical drivetrain and direct mount rim brakes.

I'm 155 pounds on a heavy day and in the middle of Summer get down to around to around 150. I'm a spinner and fairly easy on my equipment. I ride solo 95% of the time and like to push the pace as much as my 58 yr old body will allow - usually between 18 and 20 mph. I'm retired military so I ride daily - between 30 and 40 miles/day. Over the last 5 years since my retirement from the Army I've averaged about 8400 miles/year.

I've got a 10 year old Lynskey R331 with 67,500 miles on it and I've maxed out the tire space with 25's. I've used Fulcrum racing 5's (X2) and now ride Campy Zonda's on the Lynskey which I really like.

So....I've always thought Aluminum rims would be more durable and stand up to rough roads "better" than carbon. True? False?

I'm not going to beat the crap out of the Bishop, but I do plan to pile on the miles.

I value....#1 durability...#2 light weight.....#3 aerodynamics....#4 cost.

I'm going to use tubes - just because and I want a rim that can accomodate tires in the 30mm range.

This Bishop is going to be my dream bike and likely the last bike I ever buy. A one-and-done custom. So while I don't want to spend $3,000 on a wheelset, I will spend money on real performance.

I've spoken to Chris about using WI T11 hubs and maybe HED Belgiums or Ardennes + rims.......but think now that that approach might be overbuilt for me. Maybe I need something "snappier?"

[Hakkalugi]

I bought Hunt Aero Wide 34s and am very pleased at the way they ride. Reasonable price, reasonable weight, easy tubeless setup. I’m running Schwalbe Pro One 28s which measure exactly 28mm. I find that 70-75psi is plenty.

[chunkylover53]

I’d go carbon Nextie/Light Bicycle rims laced to King/DT 240 hubs, CX Ray spokes, built by a good wheel builder. Bombproof, reliable, and can be done at a decent price

[Peter P.]

I wouldn't recommend direct mount brakes. Not only will they limit your choices should you choose to change things, more importantly, they tend to provide less tire clearance. If you want to run up to 30mm tires, be sure Chris will guarantee the direct mount brakes will provide the clearances.

My Soulcraft was built to accommodate the largest tires possible with short reach calipers. The seatstay bridge and the fork length were constructed with the brake shoes at the bottom of the slot. I can fit 28's Panaracer Pasela's with ease. 32's will fit, but I have to push them past the brake pads, and I run my pads with a lot of clearance. I have normal reach brakes on another bike, and the pads are mid-slot. I measured and the spacing is the same.

So I was gonna recommend you build the frame for normal reach brakes and the reach at the bottom of the slot to ensure clearance for 30mm tires, but you might not find high-tier brakes such as Shimano Dura Ace or SRAM Force in the longer reach. You may have to compromise.

Also, to you may need longer chainstays to fit the larger tires. I've got 42cm chainstays on the Soulcraft mentioned above.

My point is, if you want to run larger tires, be prepared to possibly veer off the narrow path of a road "racing" frame.

If you want durability in rims, then I suggest and off-center rear rim such as the Velocity A23 OC (https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/a23-oc-622). I've built them on several bikes and run them for years. You can definitely tell there's more even left/right tension when building them, and they never go out of true. They're reasonably lightweight, and you can get them in various colors.

Hubs-meh; I don't see much attraction to the boutique hubs. Cartridge bearing hubs are more maintenance-free, in my opinion. I prefer steel freehub bodies because they don't get all chewed up from cog forces.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Have you considered having it built around medium reach brakes (47-57cm) so it can fit up to 35mm? 30mm tires with short reach brakes cuts it close when dealing with a few variables.

[yinzerniner]

I'm having a tough time reading this statement ...

I wouldn't recommend direct mount brakes. Not only will they limit your choices should you choose to change things, more importantly, they tend to provide less tire clearance.

And later comparing it to this statement .....

So I was gonna recommend you build the frame for normal reach brakes and the reach at the bottom of the slot to ensure clearance for 30mm tires, but you might not find high-tier brakes such as Shimano Dura Ace or SRAM Force in the longer reach. You may have to compromise.

... as they seem to reach completely different conclusions from similar experiences. The first statement says that direct mounts limit choices and provide less clearance (debatable at best, false at worst) then the second statement says that a compromise might need to be made when using different calipers.

No matter what brakes are used to get the maximum tire clearance compromises will need to be made. On a frameset and Enve fork I just had the DA9100 regular mount brakes were roughly 1/4 of the way down the slot but still had plenty of clearance on a 27mm wide rim and 29mm actual size tire, so who's to say that 30 or even 32mm on the same caliper isn't possible if a frame is specifically designed for it. And a bigger issue would be the fork as the axle to crown would need to be longer than usually seen to accommodate pushing the caliper up.

Also, to you may need longer chainstays to fit the larger tires. I've got 42cm chainstays on the Soulcraft mentioned above.
My point is, if you want to run larger tires, be prepared to possibly veer off the narrow path of a road "racing" frame.
What is a "normal" racing frame to you? While 420mm chainstays aren't exactly traditional geo for a racing frame it's more the sum of the parts vs arbitrary figures or numbers on a single component. There are probably frames out there with 420mm chainstays that will beat the pants off any Soulcraft in terms of giddyup and feel, and conversely I'm sure the Soulcraft will kick the teeth in of plenty of race rides with 400mm or shorter stays.

But to the OP, depending on budget if you're going pre-built then HED, Enve SES, Bontrager XXX or Campy/Fulcrum should fit the bill. Enve and Bontrager now have the lifetime warranty which helps assuage any durability concerns, and even then carbon has gotten so good that they're just as reliable as Alloy, and the braking surfaces of Enve and Bont are just about the best out there.

If going custom the world is your oyster, start with the hubs and work outwards. For rims the best chinese direct companies are as good as anything out there, and for alloy HED, Easton, Boyd and AI Force are all fantastic. DT, Kinlin and H Plus Son are lower priced and not quite as nice fit and finish but right up there in terms of ride quality.

[Ken Robb]

Have you considered having it built around medium reach brakes (47-57cm) so it can fit up to 35mm? 30mm tires with short reach brakes cuts it close when dealing with a few variables.

Good idea.

[fogrider]

so is carbon stronger or aluminum? Carbon. Modern carbon is way stronger than aluminum. With aluminum, I would chew up a wheelset in 3 to 5 years. I'm talking about rims going out of true, breaking spokes, cracking rims...
I got a carbon tubular wheelset more than 10 years ago and it was eye opening! I've had to true them maybe twice in 10 years. Lightweight means quick spin up of the rotating weight and and get up to speed, aero means holding the speed. Wheels will change the handling and performance of any bike. the deeper the rim, the more aero, but the more it will weigh. today, there's lots of good options out there, what are you willing to spend?

[nortx-Dave]

Thanks for the replies. lot's to consider....from frame geo to component choices.

This is a quote from Chris...." I really enjoy building and specialize in the 30/32mm fast road bike format it is what I ride and enjoy building. The frame not only fits tires that measure 32mm, but the geometry is optimized for this tire size so it will handle and feel like a fast road bike."

He's got a picture of one of his builds on his Instagram page of a bike with eebrakes, Astral Veil3 rims and WTB Exposure 30c tires, measuring a reported 32.5mm on that rim.

I don't have the geometry yet....but Chris and I have talked about using eebrakes. I'm planning a SRAM Red build so if the Red calipers work that's cool too. I'll be discussing with Chris for sure.

[NeauDL]

If you want professional help and local (Texas) knowledge, consult Joe Young. Bikewheelbuilder.com.

[Clancy]

Thanks for the replies. lot's to consider....from frame geo to component choices.

This is a quote from Chris...." I really enjoy building and specialize in the 30/32mm fast road bike format it is what I ride and enjoy building. The frame not only fits tires that measure 32mm, but the geometry is optimized for this tire size so it will handle and feel like a fast road bike."

He's got a picture of one of his builds on his Instagram page of a bike with eebrakes, Astral Veil3 rims and WTB Exposure 30c tires, measuring a reported 32.5mm on that rim.

I don't have the geometry yet....but Chris and I have talked about using eebrakes. I'm planning a SRAM Red build so if the Red calipers work that's cool too. I'll be discussing with Chris for sure.

Very few experiences as exciting as getting a custom bike made, or as filled with second-guessing. You’re in for a great experience. Happy for you.

Lots of wheel choices out there obviously. I really enjoy my DA 9100 C-24 wheels, exudes quality. I also have a set of Hunt wheels that I’ve been very impressed with, especially for the price. You might consider hand built wheels by Oldpotatoe which would be pretty sweet.

Last... when I received my T-Lab I said to my wife “this is the last bike I’m going to buy” She replied, “I hope you get 10 more” I probably won’t but I’m sure keeping my wife!

[oldpotatoe]

So....I've always thought Aluminum rims would be more durable and stand up to rough roads "better" than carbon. True? False?

I'm not going to beat the crap out of the Bishop, but I do plan to pile on the miles.

I value....#1 durability...#2 light weight.....#3 aerodynamics....#4 cost.

When you smack something hard, aluminum bends, carbon 'may' break..Carbon doesn't really 'bend.

Without knowing your budget(#4 Cost) and value is 100% subjective, pretty hard to nail this down.

Also, light weight? WI/HED wheels would not be that light.

But, If I were to design these...

Aivee hubs laced to DT411 rims using appropriate and 'value packed' spoke type and lacing. Meaning, VERY SMALL advantage to $3++/per spokes like Sapim CX-Ray..'Value'??

Or

Aivee hubs laced to BTLOS carbon rims, again, appropriate spoke type and lacing.

Or

DT 350/Bitex hubs laced to either above(less $).

Really depends...

[jwalther]

I'd take a hard look at the HEDs. . .25mm Conti GP 5000s measure 29mm on my Belgium+ rims, and while not weight weenie light, you'll not save meaningful grams with other aluminum rims.

[Clancy]

When you smack something hard, aluminum bends, carbon 'may' break..Carbon doesn't really 'bend.

Without knowing your budget(#4 Cost) and value is 100% subjective, pretty hard to nail this down.

Also, light weight? WI/HED wheels would not be that light.

But, If I were to design these...

Aivee hubs laced to DT411 rims using appropriate and 'value packed' spoke type and lacing. Meaning, VERY SMALL advantage to $3++/per spokes like Sapim CX-Ray..'Value'??

Or

Aivee hubs laced to BTLOS carbon rims, again, appropriate spoke type and lacing.

Or

DT 350/Bitex hubs laced to either above(less $).

Really depends...

For comparison, possible to post apx weight/cost for the 3 examples? Might help OP compare options.

[oldpotatoe]

For comparison, possible to post apx weight/cost for the 3 examples? Might help OP compare options.

https://wheelbuilder.com/wheel-weight-calculator/

Might not find exact hub but via the web site, can get hub weights and use a comparable one...

Pretty easy to find rim and hub $ as well..my labor is $60 per wheel.

https://www.aivee.fr/en
http://www.dtswiss.com
http://www.btlos.com

Not trying to be obtuse or difficult but even spokes range from $1.15 per to $3.50 per

BUT my wheels range from about $450 to "yeegads"..$1100++

[jm714]

I will say I enjoy wheel threads. And I can’t wait to see your Bishop, that Bishop owned by a PL’er made out of Max tubes with EE brakes and Campy is in my top three of favorite bikes I have seen anywhere. I believe that bike takes 30’s with the direct mount brakes.

[nortx-Dave]

OK....so I think I'm drifting towards carbon wheels....for a number of reasons.

Maybe Astral Veil3 rims with WI T11 hubs....or Boyd's 28mm carbon rim with those hubs. Then there is the ENVE 45.

I'd like to spend about $2,000 for the wheel set.

I'm thinking that Belgiums or Ardennes rims might be a tad overbuilt for me and how I'll use these.....but I don't want delicate wheels either.

[9tubes]

Geez, well that makes it easy. The Bora WTO are about $1500-1600 street price. They tick all the boxes for road wheels.

Wide, 19mm internal
2/1 spoke configuration for even spoke tension.
Straight pull spokes
Aero spokes. Campy's identical cousin to the Sapim CX-Rays. There's a reason that nearly every top-end wheel uses the same spoke design.
Excellent braking, as good as carbon gets.
Lightweight. Mine are 1470g for the pair of WTO 45.
Campy hubs. We can debate who has the best hubs in the world but nobody is going to leave Campy's top hubs off the list.
Awesome resale value.

Campy quality. No worries about "are my Chinese copies the good stuff or the discards from someone's assembly line?"
Campy quality. I really like my teeth.
Campy quality. Nobody is complaining about exploding rims (Enve) or manufacturing defects that slice tire beads with catastrophic failures (Enve) or cheap hubs (Zipp), etc.

The bottom line is that they tick every box. Line them up against other wheels and you'll see that others are usually missing something. People have different opinions about wheels but if you show up with a pair of Boras nobody is going to think you made a poor choice.

[oldpotatoe]

Geez, well that makes it easy. The Bora WTO are about $1500-1600 street price. They tick all the boxes for road wheels.

Wide, 19mm internal
2/1 spoke configuration for even spoke tension.
Straight pull spokes
Aero spokes. Campy's identical cousin to the Sapim CX-Rays. There's a reason that nearly every top-end wheel uses the same spoke design.
Excellent braking, as good as carbon gets.
Lightweight. Mine are 1470g for the pair of WTO 45.
Campy hubs. We can debate who has the best hubs in the world but nobody is going to leave Campy's top hubs off the list.
Awesome resale value.

Campy quality. No worries about "are my Chinese copies the good stuff or the discards from someone's assembly line?"
Campy quality. I really like my teeth.
Campy quality. Nobody is complaining about exploding rims (Enve) or manufacturing defects that slice tire beads with catastrophic failures (Enve) or cheap hubs (Zipp), etc.

The bottom line is that they tick every box. Line them up against other wheels and you'll see that others are usually missing something. People have different opinions about wheels but if you show up with a pair of Boras nobody is going to think you made a poor choice.

:banana:

[nortx-Dave]

Geez, well that makes it easy. The Bora WTO are about $1500-1600 street price. They tick all the boxes for road wheels.

Wide, 19mm internal
2/1 spoke configuration for even spoke tension.
Straight pull spokes
Aero spokes. Campy's identical cousin to the Sapim CX-Rays. There's a reason that nearly every top-end wheel uses the same spoke design.
Excellent braking, as good as carbon gets.
Lightweight. Mine are 1470g for the pair of WTO 45.
Campy hubs. We can debate who has the best hubs in the world but nobody is going to leave Campy's top hubs off the list.
Awesome resale value.

Campy quality. No worries about "are my Chinese copies the good stuff or the discards from someone's assembly line?"
Campy quality. I really like my teeth.
Campy quality. Nobody is complaining about exploding rims (Enve) or manufacturing defects that slice tire beads with catastrophic failures (Enve) or cheap hubs (Zipp), etc.

The bottom line is that they tick every box. Line them up against other wheels and you'll see that others are usually missing something. People have different opinions about wheels but if you show up with a pair of Boras nobody is going to think you made a poor choice.


Wow....GREAT recommendation. I like them!

2 questions.....

1. What do you think of the aesthetics of pairing Campy wheels on a SRAM red build?

2. I like the Fulcrum Speed 40 wheel also. Opinions??

Thanks a ton - I think I've found my wheelset!

[pdmtong]

Wow....GREAT recommendation. I like them!
2 questions.....
1. What do you think of the aesthetics of pairing Campy wheels on a SRAM red build?
2. I like the Fulcrum Speed 40 wheel also. Opinions??
Thanks a ton - I think I've found my wheelset!

yea WTO or Bora One clincher

A friend has a $12k custom sarto eTAP and Bora One disc..
why?
Best carbon wheel for the dollar PERIOD.

That wheel transformed my lugged vanilla (https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=101347)...it will make your Bishop fly (both speed and aesthetic)

[oldpotatoe]

Wow....GREAT recommendation. I like them!

2 questions.....

1. What do you think of the aesthetics of pairing Campy wheels on a SRAM red build?

2. I like the Fulcrum Speed 40 wheel also. Opinions??

Thanks a ton - I think I've found my wheelset!

1.The bike will love leaving the 'dark side'...:). If only a little bit.

2.Nice thing about Campag/Fulcrum... GREAT hubs and GREAT build, with the ability to swap from Campag to the 's' brands, freehub body wise.

I know I'm not a fan of 'wheelsouttaboxes', with the proprietary rims, spokes, hubs..that are not always supported for long by some manufacturers..plus not designed for the rider(like custom), but..Campag/Flcrum wheels-excellent.

[AngryScientist]

if one has a budget of $2k for wheels, Boras are always the answer.

personally, i think if you ride that many miles/year, you really want two sets of wheels.

Get the boras for 90% of your riding, but also get a set of inexpensive handbuilt alloy wheels. something like H+Son Archetypes built to DT350's 24/28 or similar.

if you really want the Boras to last forever, and they can - you dont want to be riding them in the rain, muck and mud. Rim brake carbon wheels these days are excellent and can take a lot of abuse, but to maximize their lifespan, i prefer to not ride them when it's gritty out. A second set of cheaper alloy wheels for foul weather and harsh conditions will really change the feel of the bike a little for some variety and allow you to keep the $$$ carbon wheels in good shape for a long time.

[Hellgate]

^^^ Exactly.

I'm a bit of a Campy wheel whore, regardless, I do what AS stated, Boras for my everyday wheels, and a choice of Shamals, Zondas , or Record 10 with Open Pros for bad weather. Typically I use the Shamals in poor weather.

I found a pair of Bora Ultra 35s that had been on a display bike, 100 miles, $1,500 shipped. Keep your eyes open!

[mcteague]

How are the Bora WTOs with regards to braking noise? I've never had a pair of carbon wheels and, for some stupid reason, I keep thinking of getting a set of Boras. Lots of reports out there say they make a whining sound when the brakes are applied. Maybe not as bad as shrieking but I do like the quiet of aluminum rims.

My current wheels are WI hubs, Easton R90SL rims and XRay spokes so I don't really think the Boras will add much more than looks. Still.....:rolleyes:

Tim

[Basso69]

I use my Bora one 50 for fast windless days. My everyday wheels are WTO 45 with 5000 TL's , love those wheels. The brakes are a little noisy with campy red pads, but quieter than some of the disc brakes I have heard.

[nortx-Dave]

if one has a budget of $2k for wheels, Boras are always the answer.

personally, i think if you ride that many miles/year, you really want two sets of wheels.

Get the boras for 90% of your riding, but also get a set of inexpensive handbuilt alloy wheels. something like H+Son Archetypes built to DT350's 24/28 or similar.

if you really want the Boras to last forever, and they can - you dont want to be riding them in the rain, muck and mud. Rim brake carbon wheels these days are excellent and can take a lot of abuse, but to maximize their lifespan, i prefer to not ride them when it's gritty out. A second set of cheaper alloy wheels for foul weather and harsh conditions will really change the feel of the bike a little for some variety and allow you to keep the $$$ carbon wheels in good shape for a long time.

GREAT advice! I don't really like to ride in the rain or even on wet pavement. luckily here in North Central Texas it doesn't rain all that much so avoiding wet roads isn't a huge problem. if I have to ride and it's wet, I can always fall back to my current bike - a Lynskey with Zondas!

[bigreen505]

Campy quality. I really like my teeth.


I think this is worth repeating.

[veloduffer]

How are the Bora WTOs with regards to braking noise? I've never had a pair of carbon wheels and, for some stupid reason, I keep thinking of getting a set of Boras. Lots of reports out there say they make a whining sound when the brakes are applied. Maybe not as bad as shrieking but I do like the quiet of aluminum rims.

My current wheels are WI hubs, Easton R90SL rims and XRay spokes so I don't really think the Boras will add much more than looks. Still.....:rolleyes:

Tim


I never had a problem with Bora wheels making noise in any weather. I think you can check on your pad setup. And you can’t beat Campy hubs - they spin forever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[one60]

had suggested checking our the alloy DT Swiss OXIC wheel set; tubeless ready, 19mm internal width, great aesthetics, braking improved over standard alloy wheels and built with DT hubs and aero spokes.

But with that budget, the tubeless ready WTO's would be at the top of my list. Boras C17 are another great option but don't believe they are tubeless?

[mass_biker]

Are the aero (Jet 4+) HED wheels a consideration here - given aerodynamics, wider internal/external, tubeless compatibility?

[mcteague]

I never had a problem with Bora wheels making noise in any weather. I think you can check on your pad setup. And you can’t beat Campy hubs - they spin forever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have Boras at the moment. I go back and forth over whether it is crazy to get these wheels when I have a perfectly fine alloy set. I don't race so any marginal gain in speed is not important. I do think they look cool and wonder if the ride quality would be an improvement over my WI hubs, R90SL rims and Xray spoked set.

Tim

[veloduffer]

I don't have Boras at the moment. I go back and forth over whether it is crazy to get these wheels when I have a perfectly fine alloy set. I don't race so any marginal gain in speed is not important. I do think they look cool and wonder if the ride quality would be an improvement over my WI hubs, R90SL rims and Xray spoked set.

Tim


I have a similar alloy set (I9 hubs instead but same rims for a disc bike) and the gain is very marginal. I actually sold my Boras recently and use Shamals and Fulcrum Zero on my rim brake bikes - looks great, slightly heavier, same great hubs. I can swap wheels easily without having to change brake pads.

I primarily use carbon on my disc brake bikes now - no worry about brake tracks, light wide rims for wide tires.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[9tubes]

How are the Bora WTOs with regards to braking noise?
Tim

They make noise. When they're new they have a gritty sandpaper sound, then that goes away and they settle into a quiet whistle. Imagine an old WW2 movie and the sound of a bomb dropping, but muted. I'd say that's the only negative about the Bora WTO.

[9tubes]

Wow....GREAT recommendation. I like them!

2 questions.....

1. What do you think of the aesthetics of pairing Campy wheels on a SRAM red build?

2. I like the Fulcrum Speed 40 wheel also. Opinions??

Thanks a ton - I think I've found my wheelset!


Campy Bora WTO and eTap? Looks OK to me, but that's my bike.


_

[robertbb]

Campy Bora WTO and eTap? Looks OK to me, but that's my bike.


_

Are you running stock Campy pads, or something else?

[9tubes]

Yes, stock Campy pads. They look black in the picture because of a few minutes with a Sharpie.