Feedback/suggestions - "gravel" grouppos

[mass_biker]

I'm a gravel neophyte. I picked up a Foundry Overland from my LBS a year+ ago for a song - they were blowing them out. It's a nice enough bike - Ti frame + SRAM Rival.

I replaced the stock wheels with some Carbon/DT350/disc wheels - following the mantra of "upgrade the wheels first". I'm running these with Panaracer Gravelkings (the knobby ones). These seem fine.

My question/search for feedback is on gravel groupsets - how much "better" (lighter action, more durable, whatever) are the higher level groupsets - Force? Ultegra etc? Is it worthwhile switching out to one of the more recent groups with the "clutch" rear mech? I'm running this 2x11 right now, but am open to suggestions.

I'm not planning on racing or bike-packing or anything - I use this to put together road/trail loops in the neighborhood as well as get some miles in when the weather is crummy. But as someone who has DA9000/eTap etc. on various road bikes, would I "feel" a difference going up in spec in gravel, and if so, any suggestions/best bang for the buck?

many thanks in advance

m_b

[fa63]

The 105 group on my gravel bike works exceedingly well. I imagine the same can be said of the GRX 600 group. Beyond that, you are paying more for less weight.

As for 1x or 2x, I would say go with 1x if you are only going to use the bike for gravel riding. If you plan to mix in some road rides as well, I would go 2x (I have 2x on mine).

[jtbadge]

Honestly Rival is pretty great.
-Force crank can be an upgrade to save a bunch of weight
-The stock RD should easily handle an 11-36 if you need more range
-With a 10 speed SRAM MTB derailleur you can run a clutch without other changes (well, you'll want an inline barrel adjuster if your frame doesn't have one)

In a 2x system the clutch mostly quiets chainslap which is kind of a non-issue for an unpainted Ti chainstay, IMO.

I wouldn't switch to 1x unless you are using this bike to race cyclocross.

[TiminVA]

I haven't seen the need for a "gravel" group. I have a Ultegra/105 mix on my gravel bike without issue. I picked it up used/piecemeal for about 1/3 of a "gravel" group.

[fa63]

I haven't seen the need for a "gravel" group. I have a Ultegra/105 mix on my gravel bike without issue. I picked it up used/piecemeal for about 1/3 of a "gravel" group.

My gravel bike came with 105 (this was before GRX had been released). I switched out the 50/34 crankset for a GRX-800 48/31 one, and have been really happy with that change. If I were going to change anything else, it would be for a clutched RD as I have had some chain slap when the going gets rough (though it is very infrequent). Other than that, the GRX brifters are supposed to have better braking from the hoods, but that hasn't really been an issue for me.

[Davist]

Depends on your terrain, of course. For me I went to 1x and 2.1" for single track and rougher trails, 47c for most of the dirt road rides. If it's just a mixed road/dirt road explorer, I'd use 2x and 32-38c. The one thing I do recommend is the ability to have a very low (below 1:1) gear, or 1:1 at minimum.

[Cgeisler]

I've run/raced a 46/36 front with 11/32 in the back for several years with no issues. The 46/11 is enough for racing when the gravel turns to asphalt; the 36x32 is sufficient for the nastiest gravel and climbs. That said, I'm going to a 50/36 and 11/36 on a new build while training for the Tushar (11k of climbing).

chad, Austin, TX

[GregL]

I'm running a mixed 105/Ultegra 11-speed group with no issues. 105 rear derailleur and shift/brake levers, CX70 top-pull front derailleur, and Ultegra crankset/bottom bracket. Gearing is 46/34 chainrings with 11-28, -32, or -34 cassette depending on the terrain. Everything works perfectly.

Greg

[Spdntrxi]

I'm using :

Easton EC90SL Carbon cranks w/ 40t wolftooth
Shimano Ultegra 8700 Di2 levers
Shimano XTR 9050 Di2 Rear Derailleur
E-Thirteen TRS+ Race 9-46 Cassette
KMC11SL Chain "gold"

obviously...more buck then bang

[jefenger]

I'm a gravel neophyte. I picked up a Foundry Overland from my LBS a year+ ago for a song - they were blowing them out. It's a nice enough bike - Ti frame + SRAM Rival.

...

My question/search for feedback is on gravel groupsets - how much "better" (lighter action, more durable, whatever) are the higher level groupsets - Force? Ultegra etc? Is it worthwhile switching out to one of the more recent groups with the "clutch" rear mech? I'm running this 2x11 right now, but am open to suggestions.



What's your current gearing/do you need to change it up? I've run SRAM Rival, Rival/Force mixed, and just recently built a gravelly bike with a SRAM road/mtb mixed group. IIRC, Sram double tap shifters shared the same tech, the difference being materials used for weight savings. FWIW, I just put on a pair of Force mechanical hydraulic shifters on a build and I can't tell the difference in shifting between these and Rival.

[yinzerniner]

I'm a gravel neophyte. I picked up a Foundry Overland from my LBS a year+ ago for a song - they were blowing them out. It's a nice enough bike - Ti frame + SRAM Rival.

I replaced the stock wheels with some Carbon/DT350/disc wheels - following the mantra of "upgrade the wheels first". I'm running these with Panaracer Gravelkings (the knobby ones). These seem fine.

My question/search for feedback is on gravel groupsets - how much "better" (lighter action, more durable, whatever) are the higher level groupsets - Force? Ultegra etc? Is it worthwhile switching out to one of the more recent groups with the "clutch" rear mech? I'm running this 2x11 right now, but am open to suggestions.

I'm not planning on racing or bike-packing or anything - I use this to put together road/trail loops in the neighborhood as well as get some miles in when the weather is crummy. But as someone who has DA9000/eTap etc. on various road bikes, would I "feel" a difference going up in spec in gravel, and if so, any suggestions/best bang for the buck?

many thanks in advance

m_b
To me the big game changer is GRX Di2. The chainline, rings, FD are all engineered to work together flawlessly, it has a rear clutch that can be disengaged, and the levers, while fugly, are heaven in the hand.

AXS is a close second, but the need to migrate EVERYTHING over to their "standards" is a big turnoff.