OT: Sawzall

[cmbicycles]

So it looks like I'm building a chicken coop while home for the Covid19 shutdown. Planning on using discarded pallets for the majority of its structure, and cutting some pallets up for the wood to fill in the gaps.
Most of the work will be done on a driveway near the house/electric. Lot of cutting with a sawzall/reciprocating saw. Is there any advantage to a cordless sawzall for general home use?

[Plum Hill]

No.
Buy a Milwaukee electric and be done.
Limited running time with battery, and batteries go belly-up after a while and need to be replaced. Yes, you don’t have to drag a cord out....

[Hindmost]

A sawzall is nice for tearing things apart. A small circular saw is good for light construction.

There's a slight increase in cost for battery-powered and batteries and there is a shorter work life. (After several years it was a hassle to find replacement batteries). But convenience a battery-powered is pretty sweet. Extra batteries a must if you're going to work for extended periods.

[gbcoupe]

No. If you already have one... any one, use it. If you're buying one, get a corded Bosch or Milwaukee. Only reason to get cordless is if you already have other tools that have the same battery. Even then, I'd think 3 times.

[cmbicycles]

Going to buy something regardless, as I dont have a recip saw. I was planning on corded, just seeing if anyone thought cordless had closed the gap, like with drills/drivers.

[ColonelJLloyd]

You're best equipped to think about times a cordless reciprocating and/or circular saw would be advantageous. I can tell you which one I'd want if I had to take it on a roof, any tight space (attic, crawlspace), or quick job.

As a homeowner I wouldn't have a battery powered circular saw as my only circular saw, but perhaps I would with the Sawzall. My dad is a homebuilder and he says he always reaches for the battery Sawzall anymore.

If I were cutting up pallets I'd prefer to have both a circular saw and the Sawzall. 4 1/2" battery powered is pretty ideal for this kind of thing.

[jimcav]

unless you use it a lot or for long periods at a time, i'd go brushless cordless. I only ran out of battery cutting 4x8 beams. AS for your planned use: many pallet are oak (hard wood), and MOST are treated with nasty stuff to stop insets and rot--wear a respirator or stay upwind (bad timing with COVID).

I bought a nice set of Ridgid tools on sale at Home depot and it included sawzall. i've used the extra long blade to cut small trees and stumps (8-12 inch diameter), cut open walls, cut fence posts. Really useful, especially on the fence and trees where i'd have needed a 150' cord! Get good blades if you want to max battery time. I have two batteries, so it has never been an issue

[robt57]

No.
Buy a Milwaukee electric and be done.
Limited running time with battery, and batteries go belly-up after a while and need to be replaced. Yes, you don’t have to drag a cord out....

My Sawsall is 30 years old. I have one battery one, in a box on a shelf with a spent battery... Case closed...

Get a good blade assortment and multiples of the most used ones to keep on hand.

[kppolich]

New milwaukee super sawzall looks nice and the rest of their fuel 18v lineup is top of the line as well.

Link:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saws/SAWZALLS/2722-21HD

Might be overkill for 1 project, but i've used mine to clean trails as well rather than carrying a saw. It makes quick work of anything.

[josephr]

buy the cheapest, corded model at Harbor Freight and call it a day. Doubtful just one chicken coop will burn out El Cheapo. If it does, you've not spent half a paycheck for a tool you'll only use once every 5-10 years and no battery hassle.

[Hakkalugi]

I have a 1979 Mikita and a 1998 Milwaukee SuperSawzall. Both are awesome but the Milwaukee is like a cross between an Xacto and a Ginsu. If either one gave up tomorrow I’d buy another corded Milwaukee in a heartbeat.

[enr1co]

I bought a corded milwaukee ~ 4 yrs ago for a kitchen oven install project but get most use of it as a tree / branch trimmer

[dddd]

buy the cheapest, corded model at Harbor Freight and call it a day. Doubtful just one chicken coop will burn out El Cheapo. If it does, you've not spent half a paycheck for a tool you'll only use once every 5-10 years and no battery hassle.

That is what I did, and I've cut some big branches, deck columns and 1/2" bolts with it over the last couple of years.
Be sure to have a good and aggressive enough blade for cutting wood, especially for any tree branches. I recently cut a huge live 10" dia branch from an oak tree using the recip saw strapped onto a pole with toe straps. The blade clogged with resin a few times and I had to use a second blade to clear the teeth. A more aggressive blade with deeper teeth might have gone through non-stop.

I needed a 100' extension cord for that job but never would have even tried it using a battery-powered saw.

[unterhausen]

I think a battery powered saw would make it through a 10" branch, no problem. maybe not 2. My old dewalt, which predated lithium batteries, got through a lot of pretty big tree trimming jobs. Haven't gotten around to using my new lithium powered saw for anything like that yet, but it's definitely better than the old one.

[johnniecakes]

buy the cheapest, corded model at Harbor Freight and call it a day. Doubtful just one chicken coop will burn out El Cheapo. If it does, you've not spent half a paycheck for a tool you'll only use once every 5-10 years and no battery hassle.

This is what I did about 15 years ago to remove portion of an interior wall after all the plaster was removed. Since then it has been used several times and has spent many years in a drawer in an unheated garage. Not a refined tool but sure does cut with the right blade. Buy a good blade and you're 75% there.

[unterhausen]

I have had really good luck with Milwaukee "the axe" blades. I have cut some pretty hefty steel bars with them. They are made for demolition, like cutting up pallets.

[biker72]

Never been a big fan of battery powered hand tools but they have improved quite a bit. My son, a cabinet maker, uses them almost exclusively when installing cabinets.

Personally I'd get a cheap corded circular saw.

[Tandem Rider]

I have both in Milwaukee. The corded one is from the 80s, the battery one is an 18v that went with a drill, it's almost like new. I used the heck out of the drill for years, it's pretty shot, all the batteries are shot too. In my experience of using cordless as daily drivers since they came out, unless you use the battery tool almost every day keeping it charged up, it's a waste and will leave you wishing for a cord.

[HenryA]

A Sawzall is super useful in demo for cutting nails. For cutting pallets, I’d go with a circular saw unless you want to cut the nails to save more wood for reuse.

I’ll also second or third the suggestions to buy a Milwaukee or a Bosch corded saw and an assorted bunch of blades.

For this project, if you cut the nails you still have metal in the wood and some of it you won’t be able to get out. That will limit your ability to saw the pieces with metal embedded. A couple of good nail pullers might be a good buy too.

[cmbicycles]

I have a circular saw, and was looking at this to cut thru the nails to save time. Maybe I should put the kids to work pulling nails instead. ;) I know some pallets are treated, but most domestic single use are not, the ones that are treated are usually stamped to specify. I have a half and full face respirator just in case, but planning to pick pallets based on the above.

[CNY rider]

I have a cordless because I take it out in the woods to maintain our hiking/ skiing trails.
it works fine although you always wish the batteries went just a little longer......

If I wasn't toting it around in the woods I would go for one with a cord.

[AngryScientist]

in the OP's circumstances, corded for sure. i'll also second or third the idea that a circular saw is probably a better tool for most of this project.

[fmradio516]

I have a cordless because I take it out in the woods to maintain our hiking/ skiing trails.
it works fine although you always wish the batteries went just a little longer......

If I wasn't toting it around in the woods I would go for one with a cord.

I am actually going to be building trails shortly too! Whats your "need to have" tools for clearing out stuff?

[paredown]

I have a cordless because I take it out in the woods to maintain our hiking/ skiing trails.
it works fine although you always wish the batteries went just a little longer......

If I wasn't toting it around in the woods I would go for one with a cord.
IME, pulling nails out of pellets is really difficult--most makers use either spiral nails or U staples, and neither lend themselves to easy pulling--certainly not for kids I would think.

I'm a fan of my corded Milwaukee--it has cut everything I have asked it to.

For cutting pallets though (especially the top boards I'd use a circular saw and plan on tossing the blade if you hit a lot of nails...

Here's a pic of my recycled pallet woodshed for kicks

[Hilltopperny]

I am a GC and I would just buy a harbor freight reciprocating saw with a cord. It never runs out of power. I have both and lots of other cordless tools as well, but unless you want to keep swapping batteries then one with a cord will get you through it and they are cheap.


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[redir]

A friend of mine who does carpentry work said that he never see's corded tools on the job anymore. It's all battery operated. I bought a Ryobi kit about 5 years ago that came with a sawsall and I could not be more happy with it. OF course it's home owner use and not professional but still.

[CNY rider]

I am actually going to be building trails shortly too! Whats your "need to have" tools for clearing out stuff?

I’m working in mixed hardwood and softwood relatively mature forest.
Loppers for low branches see the most use.
Sawzall comes out in spring and fall for bigger stuff.
Carry some orange flagging for marking out your trails at the beginning.
I try to follow natural contours and paths. It makes it much easier.

[C40_guy]

IME, pulling nails out of pellets is really difficult--most makers use either spiral nails or U staples, and neither lend themselves to easy pulling--certainly not for kids I would think.

I'm a fan of my corded Milwaukee--it has cut everything I have asked it to.

For cutting pallets though (especially the top boards I'd use a circular saw and plan on tossing the blade if you hit a lot of nails...

Here's a pic of my recycled pallet woodshed for kicks

Beautiful work. You must spend some time on hearth.com. :)

[fmradio516]

I’m working in mixed hardwood and softwood relatively mature forest.
Loppers for low branches see the most use.
Sawzall comes out in spring and fall for bigger stuff.
Carry some orange flagging for marking out your trails at the beginning.
I try to follow natural contours and paths. It makes it much easier.

nice sounds good. i was thinking of renting a big tiller to tear things up a bit.

[d_douglas]

IME, pulling nails out of pellets is really difficult--most makers use either spiral nails or U staples, and neither lend themselves to easy pulling--certainly not for kids I would think.

I'm a fan of my corded Milwaukee--it has cut everything I have asked it to.

For cutting pallets though (especially the top boards I'd use a circular saw and plan on tossing the blade if you hit a lot of nails...

Here's a pic of my recycled pallet woodshed for kicks

That’s great!!!

[jmoore]

Going to buy something regardless, as I dont have a recip saw. I was planning on corded, just seeing if anyone thought cordless had closed the gap, like with drills/drivers.

Get an electric one from Harbor Freight. I did the exact same thing as you are planning and that $35 recip saw made quick work of multiple pallets. The battery powered one I have was no match.

I have used the saw to cut up downed tree limbs and multiple other things. Good $35 investment for something that gets used infrequently.

[C40_guy]

Get an electric one from Harbor Freight. I did the exact same thing as you are planning and that $35 recip saw made quick work of multiple pallets. The battery powered one I have was no match.

I have used the saw to cut up downed tree limbs and multiple other things. Good $35 investment for something that gets used infrequently.

A good sawzall is a wonderful tool...but just like with a power washer, you have to exercise significant restraint in its use. :)

[paredown]

Beautiful work. You must spend some time on hearth.com. :)

Yes--my other home away from home on the interwebs! (I think I posted the shed there when I finished it--I was tickled with how it turned out for a small outlay of cash. I've already filled it, emptied it once this winter, filled it a second time, and now emptying it again...)

[Miljack]

I purchased Milwaukee 18V Fuel tools for home use. They all work great and the batteries have lasted me for years. I just added a chainsaw with the Fuel 18v and it's awesome! In a pinch I can use one of my smaller batteries to run the chainsaw.

[Hindmost]

...the batteries have lasted me for years...

My early 00's Milwaukee batteries were recalled after 10 or 12 years. Replacements lasted another three or five. I'm using some no-name batteries now for I don't know how much longer. This was for homeowner use and few minor projects along the way.

[unterhausen]

batteries that old weren't lithium, were they? Some of the no-name Dewalt clone lithium batteries I have seem to possibly be fading a little. But I'm not sure because I don't religiously charge them like the older chemistry batteries.

I used my nail outener the one time I took apart a pallet. That was to get the big blocks on the edges though. I agree it would be easier to use a circular saw. I have the Dewalt cordless brushless circular saw and it's probably my best saw. I have a very nice Porter Cable, but it's not quite as good

[9tubes]

For contractors, the cordless recip saws make sense because they'll destroy the tool before the batteries lose their charging ability.

As a homeowner, I subscribe to the "buy once, buy excellent" rule. I've had a corded Milwaukee Sawzall for 20 years. I expect to use it for a lot longer. I can be pretty sure any cordless saw will not have batteries available even 5-8 years from now. I'll use batteries for things I use constantly, like drill/drivers. But not the long-term occasional use tools.

If you are building a chicken coop, for the sake of your health and domestic tranquility, please do a careful internet search on chickens and rats. Nearly all residential chicken coops are rat factories. Building a rat-free coop is difficult and expensive. Rats multiply very quickly and will try to get into every house around yours (and yours too). Strike that. Rats will get into every house around, yours included.

[9tubes]

One more thing: rats can go through soft pine pallet wood sort of like a slow-motion Sawzall. Their teeth are just as sharp, they just move a bit more slowly. Wood thickness is as irrelevant to a rat as to a Sawzall.

Think of the motivation: if they get in, the rats have a guaranteed daily buffet of chicken feed. They're outside your coop and they can see and smell the food. They can chew through wood, metal wire, even concrete. Rats are just like us when seeing the cars parked around the best roadside diner. Every rat in the neighborhood is going to come over and see why all the other rats have left scent trails to your house.



.

[11.4]

A bit of a different perspective here. You do have a clear choice: get a used 15 amp corded Super Sawzall on Craigslist and pay about $125 or so for one in near mint condition. If it's beat up, it's not worth it.

Alternatively, get the new Milwaukee cordless 36 volt Super Sawzall. Here are the reasons I'd recommend this: AC motors are nice and durable, but brushless motors are possible with DC (battery) current and have in 3-4 years become incredibly durable AND powerful. A 36 volt will out-cut a 15 amp corded Sawzall all day and outlast it too. The batteries are not all that expensive and the flexibility of not needing an extension cord is invaluable. You get various features on the cordless Sawzall as well -- with DC current you can power some LEDs so you get good illumination at the front when cutting in the dark. You get clear battery level indicators. And I use Sawzalls almost daily but always reach for the cordless ones. The Super Sawzall with two 18-volt batteries (to get to the 36 volt power level) plus charger plus bag all ran about $299. We have three 36-volt models and they've probably had 500 complete drains and rechargings. They don't wear out. People still think about nicad batteries but new LiIon batteries with charging control circuitry can last a thousand cycles or more. The new cordless ones have better blade locking, better ergonomics and balance, rafter hooks, you name it, and just do the job a lot better. When you leave the tether of the power cord, you have so many more uses for it -- trimming branches, and so on. I do a lot of SAR and always have one in my pack with a mix of metal ripping blades and wood blades -- I can cut open a car or cut through a ton of heavy brush with it. I cut Christmas trees with one. Having used them, I'd never go back to corded tools except in a few instances were better cordless tools haven't been perfected yet.

We do have a couple of the 36 volt Makita versions and they are also very good, the equivalent of the Milwaukee. And because a lot of our other tools are Makita, the Makita reciprocating saws can use their batteries. Makita also makes a single-battery 18-volt mini-reciprocating saw that's pistol shaped that's freakin' amazing. It's a showpiece of beautiful machining inside, lasts forever, and is very easy to handle. And cheaper too. For cutting up pallets it's excellent and about $119 or so.

As for your pallets, as pointed out above, they are often made with staples or long wire nails. These are very hard to pull out and for kids you get poked fingers and eyes with them. I'd go with a saw of some kind. A circular saw may not cut deeper nails or ones in strange places. I'd stick with the recipro.

[Clancy]

As a retired cabinet/furniture maker, journeyman carpenter and home builder I for the life of me cannot understand this long discussion of a sawzall. I own a corded Porter Cable, have had it for maybe 30 years, great tool. But a sawzall, to me, is a demolition tool designed for the roughest of work, not remotely designed for even something as imprecise as framing.

The other thing I can’t understand is the use of pallets for the project being discussed for multiple reasons. Lumber used for pallets is the lowest grade of lumber, full of checks, splits, cracks, knots. Twisted, cupped, and unstable. Pallets are full of nails. Chances of damaging tools and injuries are pretty good. Lumber is not intended (not treated) for the intended use and will fairly quickly degrade. It’s false thinking that using discarded pallets is cost effective for something like this.

A good, corded, portable circular saw is a far better choice. You can’t use it to prune trees but for that I’d suggest a good old fashioned pruning saw unless you’ve got a LOT of trees in which case a tool designed for pruning trees is obviously a better choice. Another option might be a Bosch reciprocating saw (jig saw). Mine is probably 30 years old and still as good as new. I once built a 800 square foot deck using only the Bosch - my circular saw died and I had to finish the job. 2x6 cedar, 4x4 posts, all no problem.

And by far, treated yellow pine or cedar. Buying that salvaged through craiglist is certainly an option to keep the costs down.

[gemship]

If you must use pallets which are cheap to build with then go cheap on the tools, so I will cast another vote for Harbor Freight all the way. I have a HF brand sawzall and it's a tough unit for thirty bucks and blades can be bought on the cheap there as well. I got mine to turn a boat trailer or two into scrap metal and five years still going strong when I need it. But it's mostly a demo tool as the previous poster stated. You really need a circular saw for precise cuts. I did see a youtube video about this goofy leverage crowbar like tool made specifically to take apart nailed together pallets.It seemed like an ok alternative but really the issue here is...How to take apart the pallets to make useful stock out of them to build with?

[11.4]

As a retired cabinet/furniture maker, journeyman carpenter and home builder I for the life of me cannot understand this long discussion of a sawzall. I own a corded Porter Cable, have had it for maybe 30 years, great tool. But a sawzall, to me, is a demolition tool designed for the roughest of work, not remotely designed for even something as imprecise as framing.

The other thing I can’t understand is the use of pallets for the project being discussed for multiple reasons. Lumber used for pallets is the lowest grade of lumber, full of checks, splits, cracks, knots. Twisted, cupped, and unstable. Pallets are full of nails. Chances of damaging tools and injuries are pretty good. Lumber is not intended (not treated) for the intended use and will fairly quickly degrade. It’s false thinking that using discarded pallets is cost effective for something like this.

A good, corded, portable circular saw is a far better choice. You can’t use it to prune trees but for that I’d suggest a good old fashioned pruning saw unless you’ve got a LOT of trees in which case a tool designed for pruning trees is obviously a better choice. Another option might be a Bosch reciprocating saw (jig saw). Mine is probably 30 years old and still as good as new. I once built a 800 square foot deck using only the Bosch - my circular saw died and I had to finish the job. 2x6 cedar, 4x4 posts, all no problem.

And by far, treated yellow pine or cedar. Buying that salvaged through craiglist is certainly an option to keep the costs down.

Far too good a point, but then you don't get to buy a new tool.

[C40_guy]

Yes--my other home away from home on the interwebs! (I think I posted the shed there when I finished it--I was tickled with how it turned out for a small outlay of cash. I've already filled it, emptied it once this winter, filled it a second time, and now emptying it again...)

Thought it looked familiar!

We moved four years ago and I threw up some basic racks for my wood bank (I brought 3 cords along when we moved...wasn't going to leave good seasoned hardwood for a builder to plow under. Thinking about building a shed similar to yours...