Best canti brake?

[mass_biker]

Any first hand feedback on canti brakes?

Have Avid Shortys on my Ritchey Breakaway Cross and they remain quite fiddly (that little o ring has been replaced more than once) and noodly (at least on longish/steep road descents). Or it may be my poor wrenching skills with cantilever brakes. At least they look nice.

Would love feedback on

- Velo Orange Grand Cru Zeste
- Paul
- Others?

From folks who have tried/used them.

FWIW, I am running the VO Grand Cru calipers on my "all road-y" road bike, and love how beefy/stiff they are in the clutch. That's been a pleasant surprise and an upgrade from the stock (Tektros?) that came with my bike.

Many thanks

m_b

[jtakeda]

I’ve used Paul touring/neo retro on dirt, road and mtb rocky trails and they have been great.

Super easy to set up, and powerful.

[colker]

Old tall profile shimano deore. M735. Best power and adjustability.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Old tall profile shimano deore. M735. Best power and adjustability.

These are excellent cantilevers, But they are designed for, and were in use when, cantilever post spacing was narrower than today. I'm not certain they would work well on the Ritchey.

I have tried a lot of cantilevers and there is no "one canti that is excellent on any bike".

I was underwhelmed by the VOs. TRP mini Vs are excellent if you won't be running fenders. Neo Retro are great.

If I were building a canti bike up today I would be tempted to try the Paul MiniMoto.

[jtbadge]

I ran some TRP RevoX for a while, and they had great power. Very adjustable, but definitely fiddly - so many little set screws to adjust!

Paul Touring were quick to set and forget for me - would buy again. Now mostly using mini-Vs, though. My favorite setup might be MiniMoto front and Touring Canti rear that I have on this bike. Less on-off in the rear than a full MiniMoto set. TRP CX8.4 best budget set.

https://www.pedalroom.com/p/all-city-macho-man-33505_9.jpg

[robt57]

Until you rule these out, don't rule these out.

Tektro 926a, cheap too.


May not be best choice when you get to big tires, and/or big meaty tires. But arm short enough to overcome most cable pull issues for road levers.

[pdmtong]

shorty's never worked for me.

if you aren't planning to frolic in mud then consider TRP mini v-brakes.

[donevwil]

Suntour XC Pro are my #1, especially if you can incorporate Suntour's Power Hanger. Old style with post mounted pads are far more adjustable than current threaded style. They take more effort to setup, but are well worth it. Old Deore (as already mentioned) and XTs are also great.

Paul's are meh unless you're a lightweight or flat lander.

Sent from my LM-X410UM using Tapatalk

[jtakeda]

Suntour XC Pro are my #1, especially if you can incorporate Suntour's Power Hanger. Old style with post mounted pads are far more adjustable than current threaded style. They take more effort to setup, but are well worth it. Old Deore (as already mentioned) and XTs are also great.

Paul's are meh unless you're a lightweight or flat lander.

Sent from my LM-X410UM using Tapatalk

I should add that I weigh 130 lbs at the heaviest.

[colker]

Suntour XC Pro are my #1, especially if you can incorporate Suntour's Power Hanger. Old style with post mounted pads are far more adjustable than current threaded style. They take more effort to setup, but are well worth it. Old Deore (as already mentioned) and XTs are also great.

Paul's are meh unless you're a lightweight or flat lander.

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I have those suntours. The tension adjustment is so well made.

[mtechnica]

I would strongly consider switching to TRP mini V brakes.

[C40_guy]

I should add that I weigh 130 lbs at the heaviest.

You're just gloating.

Probably don't have any cavities, either. :)

[AngryScientist]

the Paul's work well for me.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CrDbk3cegw8/XXGIA7WSwhI/AAAAAAAADT4/9_cCEaLIxmY9G9wI4LAAX3lBQUH6RBSRQCLcBGAs/s1200/IMG_4466.jpg

[colker]

the Paul's work well for me.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CrDbk3cegw8/XXGIA7WSwhI/AAAAAAAADT4/9_cCEaLIxmY9G9wI4LAAX3lBQUH6RBSRQCLcBGAs/s1200/IMG_4466.jpg
Nice wheels.

[bfd]

Suntour XC Pro are my #1, especially if you can incorporate Suntour's Power Hanger. Old style with post mounted pads are far more adjustable than current threaded style. They take more effort to setup, but are well worth it. Old Deore (as already mentioned) and XTs are also great.

Paul's are meh unless you're a lightweight or flat lander.

Sent from my LM-X410UM using Tapatalk

In contrast, I had those Suntour XC brakes with some Campy ergo levers and hated them! I was constantly adjusting them as they just squealed, shuddered and did a very poor job of stopping! I finally threw on the cheapest mini-v brake in front that my LBS had available, the previously mentioned Tektro 926al which I got for like $20, and it was like night and day! All of a sudden I had plenty of stopping power and no more shuddering or squealing! I ended up tossing the crappy Suntour brake! Interestingly, I keep the Suntour in the rear as it worked without any problems...

Of course, others here have had success with it, so I guess YMMV!

Good Luck!

[Frankwurst]

Pauls. I have them on three different bikes. Like others have said super easy setup and stop just fine. Even on a fully loaded touring bike with my fat a$$ doing the driving on pavement and gravel.:beer:

[Hilltopperny]

I have used both TRP 8.4s and Paul touring and mini v. Both work well and are not too difficult to set up. Really depends on what you want to spend, but I have no complaints with either.


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[mmfs]

If you can look past the low price I’m super pleased with my Tekro CR720 brakes.

[tv_vt]

Best canti brake? The ones you take off your bike and replace with something better. ;)

[zap]

The old Avid Tri-Align canti brakes. Tandem worthy except on long steep twisty descents. The brakes can handle it but the rims just get way too hot.

I have 3 sets that I've been hoarding.......if I ever find a nice ti cx frame......would make for an awesome light "gravel" bike.

[palincss]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46921361734_929b6ed952_b.jpg

Rene Herse cantilever. I've tried many cantilever brakes over the years, and from a performance and aesthetic perspective these are by far the best. However they don't have any adjustability to speak of, and are intended for use with handbuilt bikes made with them in mind. The specs are published, and if your frame matches (and good quality handbuilt frames should) then in my opinion they are worth every penny of their cost.

[robt57]

The old Avid Tri-Align canti brakes.

Set up not for the faint hearted...

[MikeD]

The best canti brakes were made just before V brakes took over on mountain bikes. I have some Diacompe 986 cantis in my parts bin that I thought were one of the best before I switched to V's.

[Gummee]

I've tried most of the brakes listed here at one point or another since I started riding when that's all there was...

I've got one pair of MAFAC brakes if someone wants to go seriously old school, some XC Comps, and a few pair of Shimanos of varying vintages.

...and a bag of OnZa HO brakes if someone wants to pay shipping. I believe there are still a few that aren't cracked!

M

[mass_biker]

Thanks all...I remember the DiaCompe on my various MTBs (this is pre-suspension fork days). Easy-peasy set up and great modulation. At least for a slowpoke-downhiller like me.

As much as I like the minimal, low profile, CNC'd-to-the-max vibe of the Avids, they have proven to be less than stellar in the "fiddliness" factor. Really looking for a set-and-forget. Useful when you are dealing with a Breakaway that is - well - broken up and put away for transport!

Leaning towards Paul Touring (although I see some folks running Touring back/MiniMoto front?). Going to be using road levers (SRAM, FYI).

Thanks!

[AngryScientist]

i have a used set of Paul touring brakes if you're in need. PM me if so!

[CO_Hoya]

Leaning towards Paul Touring (although I see some folks running Touring back/MiniMoto front?). Going to be using road levers (SRAM, FYI).

I’m also looking to upgrade from Avid shorties.

I like the idea of V-brakes from my experience in 90s MTB days. Is it best to stick with road lever (short pull) specific brakes, or does an adapter (e.g. Travel Agent) work just as well?

And how do you deal with cable routing the rear on a bike intended for cantis?

[mass_biker]

i have a used set of Paul touring brakes if you're in need. PM me if so!

PM sent...

[Wattvagen]

i've also had really good service from the Paul brakes on numerous builds.

i know every few years it seems like they do a custom run of anodization on all of their parts. would be cool to see purple or blue make a comeback.

[e-RICHIE]

TRP Revox.

[Bentley]

i've also had really good service from the Paul brakes on numerous builds.

i know every few years it seems like they do a custom run of anodization on all of their parts. would be cool to see purple or blue make a comeback.

I know they have done both colors in the last 3 years. Pretty sure last year was blue

[colker]

Since no one mentioned i will say it: xtr m900 cantilevers.
The shine on those things is sooo pretty. And it´s easy to set up, light, small..
I don´t know if every owner of m900 just knew how to set up cantis but on every bike i saw them it was working better than any V brakes.

[theboucher]

I actually prefer the Shortys over any TRP brakes, Pauls, and the Shimano CX line. Don't write them off completely - you may be able to optimize the setup further. All cantis are fussy to work on. Short-pull vee-style brakes are great, but as others have mentioned, no bueno in muddy conditions.

Maybe post a photo of your setup if you're looking for improvements to try before spending $$?

[charliedid]

Why no V-brake in da mud?

[colker]

Why no V-brake in da mud?

They are not good w/ really fat tires as well. No clearance. Not easy to take off your wheel

[BryanE]

I just switched from cheaper Shimano to Avid Shorty Ultimates and the difference is huge. I'm very happy with the Avids.

[mtechnica]

Why no V-brake in da mud?

The pads are closer to the wheel. You can still fit pretty big tires with them, but maybe not MTB sized tires and fenders or something. But for most bikes they are fine, even in the mud.

[charliedid]

Right, I guess I knew that.

Cheers

[warren128]

This is a very interesting thread for me because I have an incoming frameset that has cantilever brake bosses, and I've never worked with them before.

[nalax]

i've also had really good service from the Paul brakes on numerous builds.

i know every few years it seems like they do a custom run of anodization on all of their parts. would be cool to see purple or blue make a comeback.

Currently purple and blue are available over at Paul Comp. Green too in some of the brakes.

[pdmtong]

Why no V-brake in da mud?

The pads are closer to the wheel. You can still fit pretty big tires with them, but maybe not MTB sized tires and fenders or something. But for most bikes they are fine, even in the mud.

it's not as if you cannot run them in the mud - its just that there is a lot less clearance than a typical canti. if you have goopy mud no big deal - clay like mud different story. then again clay like mud packs against the rear of the BB anyways.

[colker]

The answer to this thread is: The best canti brake is a well adjusted canti brake. It´s not that easy to achieve it.. so chose something you don´t hate working on.
As far as breaking well they all do when done properly.

[Hindmost]

Can we talk about brake quality without talking about pads/pad composition?

[JLQ]

Can we talk about brake quality without talking about pads/pad composition?

I was just getting ready to type that I use Paul touring brakes but I think the salmon pads are essential too.

[colker]

Can we talk about brake quality without talking about pads/pad composition?

Kool stop salmon pads. Slick high end cables help too.

[David in Maine]

One vote for Shimano CX70. Switched from older low profile Deore LX on our loaded touring bikes. Seem to stop much better and pretty easy to set up. Toe-in was necessary to get rid of squeal and it took awhile to get it right. I haven't tried others.

David

[Brian Cdn]

No issues with the avid shorties. They work well on my crosser.
Lots of stopping power. Resetting calipers when swapping to narrower rims can be a bit of a pain.

[MikeD]

Kool stop salmon pads. Slick high end cables help too.


That. Kool Stop pads (I like the black ones) are great.

Adjustment of the straddle wire to a proper length is very important.

[Lewis Moon]

No issues with the avid shorties. They work well on my crosser.
Lots of stopping power. Resetting calipers when swapping to narrower rims can be a bit of a pain.

Yeah...The ASUs have been my favorites for a while now. I've tried the Pauls and the design makes front judder almost inevitable on most bikes. The long pads and the way they mount way outboard on the posts are the problem. The ASUs sit a lot closer to the frame and use standard road pads...just a better design. On a carbon frame with a tapered HT I can set these up with no judder and power enough to do a "stoppie".

[jemdet]

Pauls! The Neo Retro front and Touring rear combo. So good.

[scopes]

Have Paul Neo retro/touring combo on one bike and TRP 8.4 on another. Both are great.

More power with the 8.4

More modulation and clearance with the Pauls

Both using Coolstop Salmon pads.

Would happily recommend either set.

[fffuhq]

3 brakes i like:

-Paul components (most expensive but coolest)

- Avid Shorty Ultimate ( has most adjust-ability and you can find for a good price most of the time used)


- shimano cx70 - set it and forget it. cheapest and sven nys used to race with them.

[93KgBike]

Imho, one of the great things about canti's is that they all work great when setup properly.

Pick a style that suits you without worrying too much... take the time to dial them.

[Oxford_Guy]

Seeing as the Shimano CX70 canti seems to be long-discontinued, my recommendation would be the CX50, but replace the not very good all-in-one pads with separate brake shoe holders (e.g. Ultegra ones) and Swissstop Flashpro BXP pads, which I find work better than Koolstops

[Gummee]

I just switched from cheaper Shimano to Avid Shorty Ultimates and the difference is huge. I'm very happy with the Avids.

If you like the Shorty Ultimates, I'll bet you'll like RevoX brakes more.

I know I did

M

[MikeD]

Yeah...The ASUs have been my favorites for a while now. I've tried the Pauls and the design makes front judder almost inevitable on most bikes. The long pads and the way they mount way outboard on the posts are the problem. The ASUs sit a lot closer to the frame and use standard road pads...just a better design. On a carbon frame with a tapered HT I can set these up with no judder and power enough to do a "stoppie".


Good point. Fork judder can be a problem with canti brakes. My son's Ritchey Swiss Cross was horrible, until we put on a mini V brake. If your fork can mount a cable hanger on the crown, that can eliminate the judder too.

[CO_Hoya]

For my canti bike, I'm currently riding 700x38 Pasela GKs.

Because the canti brake pads are under the fork and seat stay, I can't open the brakes far enough to remove the tire with deflating (or removing a pad). Currently using Avid Shorty 6.

I see that this seems to be a general complaint about these brakes generally (link (http://crossbikereview.com/gear/reviews/avid-shorty-6)) but since the pad is actually contacting part of the frame I don't think the general lack of clearance is my issue.

Is there a brake pad or canti brake I should consider to allow for proper clearance?

I assume that putting the brakes further out on the canti post via some sort of spacer would degrade performance because of flex.

[jemdet]

For my canti bike, I'm currently riding 700x38 Pasela GKs.

Because the canti brake pads are under the fork and seat stay, I can't open the brakes far enough to remove the tire with deflating (or removing a pad). Currently using Avid Shorty 6.


Run campy and get a quick release on the lever :)

I have the same issue when running Shimano levers. It helps that 99% of wheel removals are either done at home or are the result of deflated tires.

[GOTHBROOKS]

a campy lever with a quick release will not fix his problem.

[veggieburger]

Ever try Odyssey straddle rods on your cantis? I miss mine.

[72gmc]

CO Hoya, I'm not familiar with the Avids but I am familiar with this issue. Are you using a long pad like the Kool Stop Thinline? If so, can you switch to a shorter road-length pad and eliminate the brake pad contact with the frame?

[jc031699]

For my canti bike, I'm currently riding 700x38 Pasela GKs.



Because the canti brake pads are under the fork and seat stay, I can't open the brakes far enough to remove the tire with deflating (or removing a pad). Currently using Avid Shorty 6.



I see that this seems to be a general complaint about these brakes generally (link (http://crossbikereview.com/gear/reviews/avid-shorty-6)) but since the pad is actually contacting part of the frame I don't think the general lack of clearance is my issue.



Is there a brake pad or canti brake I should consider to allow for proper clearance?



I assume that putting the brakes further out on the canti post via some sort of spacer would degrade performance because of flex.



I have not tried these but they are made for this scenario
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/braking/products/brake-pads-kool-stop-shorties


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[CO_Hoya]

CO Hoya, I'm not familiar with the Avids but I am familiar with this issue. Are you using a long pad like the Kool Stop Thinline? If so, can you switch to a shorter road-length pad and eliminate the brake pad contact with the frame?
I’ve currently got Koolstop CX holders and pads:
http://koolstop.com/images/CXT-SM.jpg

I was actually wondering about going to something like a Thinline just to reduce the total height of the pad/holder assembly for some extra space. But don’t think it would be enough.

The set screw on the pad holders are the contact point up front. Ugh.

[CO_Hoya]

I have not tried these but they are made for this scenario
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/braking/products/brake-pads-kool-stop-shorties
I have never seen these before. Nice.

Price is steep ($30 / wheel) but the ad copy describes exactly my frustration.

Thanks for this.

[72gmc]

I had a similar issue with an old CX frame. I figure it’s the frame that is the issue because I swapped the brakes from an old MTB that did not have any interference.

The Riv Shorties may be the best bet. I’ve also seen people install Thinlines that are chopped off not far behind the fixing bolt.