ti for gravel

[boomforeal]

"researching" my next gravel frame last fall, i noticed a high proportion of the bikes posted on this site were titanium

then, in the "Tell me about your dream gravel bike" thread dbnm started last week, it seemed like virtually every bike posted was ti

R3awak3n noted that the material is
kind of perfect for gravel

why is that?

[Hilltopperny]

"researching" my next gravel frame last fall, i noticed a high proportion of the bikes posted on this site were titanium

then, in the "Tell me about your dream gravel bike" thread dbnm started last week, it seemed like virtually every bike posted was ti

R3awak3n noted that the material is


why is that?



I think it’s based on durability. I have owned steel, aluminum, carbon and titanium gravel bikes. All were high end bikes and they all had their own merits. All rode wonderfully and depending on how and where you ride would be a good choice, but titanium really is a lifetime material.

I prefer the titanium bikes ride characteristics and after a pretty bad wreck in early November my bike was fine! The Gentleman behind me who was also on a Drifter pulled a spoke through on one of his wheels and my rear wheel had been knocked out of true and a snapped spoke. Both frames were absolutely fine despite both of us flying off of our bikes at around 15-20mph and sustaining some pretty nasty injuries. I have some rash on my hoods,needed a wheel trueing and a new spoke. Injuries for the other rider included a hospital stay for slight concussion, broken ribs and multiple hand fractures requiring surgery. I lucked out with some serious road rash and bruised possibly cracked ribs.

That is a testament to how tough those frame sets are. Not sure a carbon bike would have cracked, but I would have been pretty nervous riding it after an impact on pavement like that. It would have likely dented at the very least if it were lightweight steel or aluminum.

I think titanium gives a good balance of comfort and performance as well. Riding on and off road means different things to different people especially with the ever changing bikes being made for this genre. I prefer a non suspended bike that is durable, comfortable and responsive.
Maintenance is relatively low and the look is pretty classic.



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[colker]

I think it’s based on durability. I have owned steel, aluminum, carbon and titanium gravel bikes. All were high end bikes and they all had their own merits. All rode wonderfully and depending on how and where you ride would be a good choice, but titanium really is a lifetime material.

I prefer the titanium bikes ride characteristics and after a pretty bad wreck in early November my bike was fine! The Gentleman behind me who was also on a Drifter pulled a spoke through on one of his wheels and my rear wheel had been knocked out of true and a snapped spoke. Both frames were absolutely fine despite both of us flying off of our bikes at around 15-20mph and sustaining some pretty nasty injuries. I have some rash on my hoods,needed a wheel trueing and a new spoke. Injuries for the other rider included a hospital stay for slight concussion, broken ribs and multiple hand fractures requiring surgery. I lucked out with some serious road rash and bruised possibly cracked ribs.

That is a testament to how tough those frame sets are. Not sure a carbon bike would have cracked, but I would have been pretty nervous riding it after an impact on pavement like that. It would have likely dented at the very least if it were lightweight steel or aluminum.

I think titanium gives a good balance of comfort and performance as well. Riding on and off road means different things to different people especially with the ever changing bikes being made for this genre. I prefer a non suspended bike that is durable, comfortable and responsive.
Maintenance is relatively low and the look is pretty classic.



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Steel has quite a long life. How many steel frames from the 70s and 80s are around? Just look at ebay.. Titanium is lighter than steel by 1/2 lb and gives a comfortable ride while not corroding. Rust is steel´s achilles heel.
I have seen wonderfull aluminium bikes. From Klein Mountain Bikes to Cyfacs and Gaulzettis. A gravel bike made of Easton´s advanced butted aluminium should be a rocket and cost less than titanium. Since you are riding on big fat tires an aluminium frame is perfect. If Klein was alive they would be king in the gravel scene.

[oldpotatoe]

"researching" my next gravel frame last fall, i noticed a high proportion of the bikes posted on this site were titanium

then, in the "Tell me about your dream gravel bike" thread dbnm started last week, it seemed like virtually every bike posted was ti

R3awak3n noted that the material is


why is that?

Titanium lasts forever, the ride never changes. BUT, I'd add other 'metal' bikes..Steel, even well made aluminum can too.

BUT, the market is carbon, carbon, everywhere. Once the 'molds' are paid for(for that type), a carbon frame is pretty inexpensive to make..both in terms of materials(carbon and glue) and the labor. So, even tho carbon is the worse choice for a dirt bike(crash and damage worthiness and longevity)..expect to see that material dominate the
'market'..

[Hilltopperny]

Steel has quite a long life. How many steel frames from the 70s and 80s are around? Just look at ebay.. Titanium is lighter than steel by 1/2 lb and gives a comfortable ride while not corroding. Rust is steel´s achilles heel.

I have seen wonderfull aluminium bikes. From Klein Mountain Bikes to Cyfacs and Gaulzettis. A gravel bike made of Easton´s advanced butted aluminium should be a rocket and cost less than titanium. Since you are riding on big fat tires an aluminium frame is perfect. If Klein was alive they would be king in the gravel scene.



I agree that steels real Achilles heal is rust and aluminum does make for a good gravel bike material, but the Zanconato I had had a nice ding in the top tube from handlebar strike because of how thin it was drawn. It was likely the lightest disc brake bike I have ever owned as it was a 1x set up with carbon wheels.

I recently picked up a rigid aluminum Stache and it is the most fun I have ever had on a snow/winter/fat bike! It is lighter riding and feeling than any of the other 29+ bikes I have ridden and the geometry just makes it feel like a rocket.


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[colker]

I agree that steels real Achilles heal is rust and aluminum does make for a good gravel bike material, but the Zanconato I had had a nice ding in the top tube from handlebar strike because of how thin it was drawn. It was likely the lightest disc brake bike I have ever owned as it was a 1x set up with carbon wheels.

I recently picked up a rigid aluminum Stache and it is the most fun I have ever had on a snow/winter/fat bike! It is lighter riding and feeling than any of the other 29+ bikes I have ridden and the geometry just makes it feel like a rocket.


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That ding didn´t compromise the safety of the bike. It´s a scar. It gives personality. Aluminium makes great climbing bikes.

[Hilltopperny]

That ding didn´t compromise the safety of the bike. It´s a like a scar. It gives personality to the bike. Aluminium makes great climbing bikes.



I agree, I just wonder what would happen in a more high speed/impact situation. The Zanconato was a rocket and extremely nice ride. I wouldn’t have hesitated to keep it if it wasn’t redundant!


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[madsciencenow]

I went back and forth between Al and Ti for my incoming gravel rig from Zanc. I’ve previously owned a Routt and as stated the material is rather perfect for gravel. I’d still own that bike if the head tube had been shorter. Anyway, I decided on Al because it’s a bit cheaper and a tad less weight. As mentioned, it’s softer than Ti so in a crash it may get dinged up and if a rock catches it at the right angle with enough velocity it’s more prone to a ding. Knowing this, I still opted for Al as it’s a little cheaper and I just wanted to try an Al bike built by Mike. I don’t get to ride gravel more than once or twice a week and what I do ride isn’t massive nasty stuff for the most part. In addition, I like to move fast so Al just seemed to make sense.


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[Clancy]

I wonder if a sub-conscious appeal for titanium has to do with appearance in the shape of the tubing? A titanium frame with round tubes looks much more traditional than the often exotic shapes and curves of carbon and to a lesser extent, aluminum.

I love the look of a titanium frame, combines the look of a classic, traditional steel frame with the advantages mentioned.

[madsciencenow]

Personally, I like the aesthetic of Ti welds over Al but a little color is nice too.


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[Likes2ridefar]

Durability for me. I rode a carbon bike the last 3 years, many of the miles on smooth gravel, and occasionally a trail or very rough gravel.

I crashed more times in that time period than I ever did on a road bike (never over the 10 years prior to moving to arizona and finding miles of amazing gravel... not counting racing)

And then there are the rock strikes. One in particular looked liked it cracked the frame on the down tube, but I was assured it was just a huge chunk out of the paint on the carbon.

I would choose steel over gravel for cost (surly, etc) to keep the frame low cost. Even wheels I’d think twice about carbon. My ksyrium all roads look very beat up and worn after 2 years. And most of that is from just a few trail rides mixed into gravel routes.

[weisan]

Why I choose Ti?

So I can concentrate on riding and forget about the freakin' bike!

Oh...you can do that with any material?

You go do that and leave me...and my Ti bike alone!

[R3awak3n]

My reasoning on TI being perfect for gravel is exactly what everyone been saying.

Lighter than steel and not having to worry about rust. I can count the times my gravel bike has been filthy and I am too tired to clean it for a few days. Steel probably be fine but I would take more care of it, chips and water getting in is not great in the long run. TI bikes are usually unpainted ao they can really take the abuse and still look good. It also seems that they are doing some cool stuff with 3D printed titanium allowing bigger tires with road cranks and short chain stays.


AL is great but a bit more fragile, you will still have chips in the paint and ride will probably be a little more uncomfortable (even though AL is rumored to be unforgiving and cause fatigue, my rock lobster is a pleasure to ride so I can imagine that a nicely designed AL frame paired with a nice fat tire will be fantastic, be decently light and much cheaper than TI which to me the only negative is price)

[AngryScientist]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.

it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.

you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:

[madsciencenow]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.



it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.



you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.



just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:



Fantastic point, Nick and one that I think needs to be strongly considered when buying a gravel rig. I had to remind myself about this a number of times.


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[chiasticon]

why is that?because when you hear that gravel ricocheting off the down tube, you can be comforted with the knowledge that its not chipping your beautiful paint job :banana:

[gomango]

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:


Exactly.

When our oldest son said he wanted to do some of the gravel events with us this year, we grabbed a Kona Rove ST. Nice bike for the $$$$.

https://www.konaworld.com/rove_st.cfm

[Clean39T]

because when you hear that gravel ricocheting off the down tube, you can be comforted with the knowledge that its not chipping your beautiful paint job :banana:

They make 3M tape for that - if it can protect your hood/headlights from rock chips at 100mph, I think some gravel kicked up at 20mph will be just fine.

[happycampyer]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.

it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.

you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:Very true. A Cannondale Topstone alloy with 105 is $1,750 complete at REI. I’ve seen all-road bikes that end up costing 10x+ that, but they aren’t 10x+ more fun to ride.

[Clean39T]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.

it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.

you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:

Careful, that's a slippery slope you're on..

Next thing you'll be telling us we don't need to obsess over bikes :rolleyes:

It is true though. I had a blast riding a down-spec (Tiagra!) Speshialized Diverge in CA last week. Granted, it was brand new, so the brakes and shifting were fresh, but it didn't keep me from having fun. I undoubtedly would have been faster on tubeless and a lighter bike though :cool:

[AngryScientist]

i'll bring up in this thread what i just said elsewhere too:

for some people, and some riding....

a thinner, lighter gauge steel tubed bike, with a light, curved blade steel fork may very well ride a lot nicer on gravel than a super stiff fat tubed ti bike with an enormous bottom bracket area and rigid as hell carbon fork.

modern "gravel" bikes seem to emphasize a really stiff frame and fork, and add dampening with big fat tires and other features. well designed, purpose built steel bikes have been "taking the buzz off" rough roads for decades, using skinnier tires.

depends on the kind of riding and surfaces you're on, but personally, if i'm out for a century on quiet country roads, including dirt sections, i'd prefer a skinny tubed steel bike with a light steel fork and 30c tires over a stiff ti bike with 48's.

just another thought.

[tomato coupe]

"researching" my next gravel frame last fall, i noticed a high proportion of the bikes posted on this site were titanium

then, in the "Tell me about your dream gravel bike" thread dbnm started last week, it seemed like virtually every bike posted was ti

why is that?
This forum is popular with people who like Ti, so they post pictures if Ti bikes and dream of owning Ti bikes. It represents one segment of the cycling world.

[unterhausen]

I like the idea of a nice, light steel frame on a gravel bike. I was going to make myself a Spirit for Lugs gravel bike, but I have a 2OS tubeset and some nice Llewellyn lugs so I'm going with that. I want to do bikepacking with it, and my current gravel bike is a gas-pipe All City, so I figure I'm not going to be increasing the weight much.

As ridiculous as it might be, I still have a left-over anti-titanium bias from my Teledyne Titan experience.

[colker]

i'll bring up in this thread what i just said elsewhere too:

for some people, and some riding....

a thinner, lighter gauge steel tubed bike, with a light, curved blade steel fork may very well ride a lot nicer on gravel than a super stiff fat tubed ti bike with an enormous bottom bracket area and rigid as hell carbon fork.

modern "gravel" bikes seem to emphasize a really stiff frame and fork, and add dampening with big fat tires and other features. well designed, purpose built steel bikes have been "taking the buzz off" rough roads for decades, using skinnier tires.

depends on the kind of riding and surfaces you're on, but personally, if i'm out for a century on quiet country roads, including dirt sections, i'd prefer a skinny tubed steel bike with a light steel fork and 30c tires over a stiff ti bike with 48's.

just another thought.

You want that new crust w/ rim brakes. Lovely bike.

[Dekonick]

"researching" my next gravel frame last fall, i noticed a high proportion of the bikes posted on this site were titanium

then, in the "Tell me about your dream gravel bike" thread dbnm started last week, it seemed like virtually every bike posted was ti

R3awak3n noted that the material is


why is that?

If I could go back 19 years I would have 3 custom Ti Serotta Hors Categorie bikes.
1) Road geometry, disk and rim brakes, room for up to 32 tires. set up for internal routing.
2) Touring geometry - same as my Bedford Steel - BUT with Disk and Paul brakes, custom steel fork. Much more relaxed. Room for fatties, up to 35 with fenders and racks. Internal routing...
3) gravel - Disk + Lauf fork (I know they didn't exist then...) room for up to 40's... fender mounts... internal routing, etc...

[Hilltopperny]

I have run all kinds of gravel bikes with varying builds over the past four or five years. I have tried all the materials and widely varying geometries. At the top level they all ride great and if the intended purpose is dirt/gravel roads then the paint or powder should be sufficient to prevent major chips and dings, but with titanium it just isn’t an issue.

My Kirk MRB with terraplane stays and steel fork was awesome and I put a reasonable amount of miles on it for the season that I kept it. It had clearance for 35mm tires on wide rims and rim brakes and I didn’t feel it lacked anything for the kind of dirt/gravel riding I do. The brakes always worked perfectly and I typically road it with 32mm tires. It was custom for another member here, but fit within the necessary parameters for me. The Joe Bell paint was never an issue, but I would never allow it to be ridden in the salty winter up here which was a determining factor when I decided to sell it.

I briefly owned a Parlee that has made its rounds around the forum and that was also an excellent bike. It had large tire clearances, a lightweight frame and a smooth, but stiff enough ride. It was a bit on the small side for me and I ended up passing it along.

I picked up a NOS Stigmata and built it up with a 1x drivetrain and took it out on some adventure riding. I was impressed with both its functionality and it’s ability to just ride wonderfully through anything I could throw at it. It was my favorite drop bar carbon bike that I can recall riding. It was almost like riding a rigid drop bar mountain bike.

I had a Moots Routt that was also an excellent bike. It was super plush with good power transfer, but a bit more upright with a 1” extension of the head tube. Another wonderful bicycle, but definitely felt more endurance oriented. It made for a very comfortable ride.

I picked up a wet fade painted aluminum Zanconato cx. This bike was 1x only and fit up to a 40c tire no problem. I tried it out in both 700c and 650b and was always impressed by its ride characteristics. Snappy when power was applied and smooth riding like steel. It came to me with a ding which I assume came from a handlebar impact. I could see where a bad enough crash could end its life due to its very thin tubing.

My current bike is a No22 Drifter. It is an excellent all around bike and I did have it built up with fender and rear rack capabilities. It is responsive enough to input and still maintains an all day level of comfort. I can ride it on road rides and not really feel a disadvantage and it is capable of riding pretty much any terrain I would like to with a quick wheel change with the appropriate tires.

I think it all depends on what you will be riding. I prefer a 32-35mm tire for climbing and anything less than single track or rough trails. I like 42-48 650b for more technical and harsher terrain. I am also 200-230lbs at any given time of year.


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[happycampyer]

If I could go back 19 years I would have 3 custom Ti Serotta Hors Categorie bikes.
1) Road geometry, disk and rim brakes, room for up to 32 tires. set up for internal routing.
2) Touring geometry - same as my Bedford Steel - BUT with Disk and Paul brakes, custom steel fork. Much more relaxed. Room for fatties, up to 35 with fenders and racks. Internal routing...
3) gravel - Disk + Lauf fork (I know they didn't exist then...) room for up to 40's... fender mounts... internal routing, etc...^ This is why I'd like a Routt YBB...

https://moots.com/bike/routt-ybb/

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-jJvgr29/0/c73dafaf/XL/i-jJvgr29-XL.jpg

[Kirk007]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.

it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.

you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:

buy a Lynskey. They're fine.

[robertbb]

As AngryScientist said, absolutely no need to spend thousands!

My "gravel" bike is a 2012 Giant cross city which I bought used (but mint) off gumtree for AU$400.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/cross-city-1-2012

It uses Giant's 6011 aluminium, which has added copper for extra strength. It can take 35's easily, has every rack and fender mount you could want, a 27.2mm seatpost, external cable routing, threaded bottom bracket, v-brakes, a clamp on FD (so very clean looking when run 1x).

The pics don't do it justice. The tubes are very beautifully shaped and designed to take heavy load (massive head tube and bottom bracket) and the welding is superb.

It's currently a flat-bar running the stock 105 groupset but I have plans to switch it to a drop-bar Campy 11 set-up soon.

[robt57]

It is really "All Good"

I always say, you want zoot and have the coin, you can't take either with you. So you can ride the money, or leave it for your kids... ;)

[joosttx]

if we're talking about the ideal material, and the ideal overall bike, that's cool, and all well and good for the discussion, but i think for a lot of people, these discussions can be a bit dangerous.

it sometimes seems like when we talk about gravel bikes, you can go down the road of thinking that you need a bespoke titanium bike, fitted with 200 bucks worth of tires, carbon wheels to keep the weight down, wireless drivetrains and hydraulic brakes.

you're easily into 5 figures when you think about a bike like this.

just want to remind everyone that to go out and have fun riding off pavement doesnt NEED the tip top of the line. :hello:

You don’t need a titanium wonder bike- this thread is an off shoot of the dream gravel bike thread. In my group of guys I ride with regularly I am the only one with a titanium friends. Most ride carbon, one ride aluminum (hates it) and one rides steel. One thing I would caution is not to buy a carbon bike from a small outfit for a cheap price. Warranties are important. And it seems like some small companies are not honoring them.

[nmrt]

To this I would add that for me Ti is where it is at. I have a 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata shod with 700 X 40c tires. I can make a direct comparison on how this bike rides on asphalt with my No22 Great Divide Disc.

Astonishingly, I find that my Stigmata with 700 X 40c tires (at 35 psi) rides so much stiffer than my Ti bike with 700 X 25c tires (at 78 psi). It was an eye opener!

I had thought that with 40c tires, the frame material would become immaterial. It did not! BTW, it would be interesting to find out at what tire width does frame material become immaterial.

Anyway, for me at least, Ti is where it is at for gravel compared to carbon.

You don’t need a titanium wonder bike- this thread is an off shoot of the dream gravel bike thread. In my group of guys I ride with regularly I am the only one with a titanium friends. Most ride carbon, one ride aluminum (hates it) and one rides steel. One thing I would caution is not to buy a carbon bike from a small outfit for a cheap price. Warranties are important. And it seems like some small companies are not honoring them.

[sparky33]

the Zanconato I had had a nice ding in the top tube from handlebar strike because of how thin it was drawn. It was likely the lightest disc brake bike I have ever owned as it was a 1x set up with carbon wheels.


That ding didn´t compromise the safety of the bike. It´s a scar. It gives personality. Aluminium makes great climbing bikes.

Interesting thread wrt to relative durability of materials...
That aluminum Zanc was a ton of fun - super nice riding bike that did everything really well. I don't recall how the ding happened, probably in a cyclocross or some other messing around. I like that quality aluminum frames are still a thing.

To this I would add that for me Ti is where it is at. I have a 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata shod with 700 X 40c tires. I can make a direct comparison on how this bike rides on asphalt with my No22 Great Divide Disc.

Astonishingly, I find that my Stigmata with 700 X 40c tires (at 35 psi) rides so much stiffer than my Ti bike with 700 X 25c tires (at 78 psi). It was an eye opener!

I had thought that with 40c tires, the frame material would become immaterial. It did not! BTW, it would be interesting to find out at what tire width does frame material become immaterial.

Anyway, for me at least, Ti is where it is at for gravel compared to carbon.

Thank you for this comparison. By stiff, do you mean responsive or harsh?
Santa Cruz is what I consider to be good carbon for dirt riding. Their hardtails ride super nice, plush but responsive. Given that the new Stig takes this same carbon method, dropped stays and such, I was guessing that it would be a similarly optimal combination of character. Maybe not? Some reviews says that the Stig is on the comfier end relative to other carbon gravel...but who knows what is believable in reviews these days.

[colker]

To this I would add that for me Ti is where it is at. I have a 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata shod with 700 X 40c tires. I can make a direct comparison on how this bike rides on asphalt with my No22 Great Divide Disc.

Astonishingly, I find that my Stigmata with 700 X 40c tires (at 35 psi) rides so much stiffer than my Ti bike with 700 X 25c tires (at 78 psi). It was an eye opener!

I had thought that with 40c tires, the frame material would become immaterial. It did not! BTW, it would be interesting to find out at what tire width does frame material become immaterial.

Anyway, for me at least, Ti is where it is at for gravel compared to carbon.

An aluminium Vitus is a very very flexy bike. An early litespeed titanium is a very very flexy bike.
An aluminium Klein is a very stiff bike. A Litespeed Vortex is a very stiff bike.

Conclusion?

[colker]

Titanium is indestructible. Untill it breaks. (who hasn´t heard of a high end titanium bike that cracked somewhere?)

Aluminum is stiff untill you ride a Vitus.(who doesn´t know how flexy can aluminum forks be?)

Carbon is superior untill it feels dead. (who hasn´t heard of a rider coming back to steel?)

Steel is real untill you feel it´s weight when climbing. (who doesn´t want a light aluminum frame when climbing?)

[oldpotatoe]

Very true. A Cannondale Topstone alloy with 105 is $1,750 complete at REI. I’ve seen all-road bikes that end up costing 10x+ that, but they aren’t 10x+ more fun to ride.

Nor are they 10x as 'good'...:)but $17,500 gravel bike? :eek:

BUT, ya reach a point of diminishing returns pretty fast on any bike.

https://www.habcycles.com/cross.html

$1045 for a disc brake model..add some 'stuff'..in the $2500 range and titanium.

[buddybikes]

A good touring bike would also be great for gravel - with the added benefit - go on a loaded tour on/off road. Perhaps front end would be a bit slower - but that is pretty small diminish for the advantage.

i.e.: Lynskey Backroad. Built like a tank

[colker]

A good touring bike would also be great for gravel - with the added benefit - go on a loaded tour on/off road. Perhaps front end would be a bit slower - but that is pretty small diminish for the advantage.

i.e.: Lynskey Backroad. Built like a tank

Good ... but not great. A 26in mountain bike w/ drop bars, 2.2 lightweight tires and rigid fork would be better.

[buddybikes]

Good ... but not great. A 26in mountain bike w/ drop bars, 2.2 lightweight tires and rigid fork would be better.


Of course depending upon the gravel/dirt you are heading on. Many of us 2.2 is not needed.

[AngryScientist]

Ti for gravel. It's what's for dinner.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfGBtb2auxc/VTRU3dqKQ3I/AAAAAAAACAw/7F4p2Jt1g9Q/s1200/P1080466.JPG

[oldpotatoe]

Ti for gravel. It's what's for dinner.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zfGBtb2auxc/VTRU3dqKQ3I/AAAAAAAACAw/7F4p2Jt1g9Q/s1200/P1080466.JPG

Single speed? Fixie? Good on ya. My Vamoots has rear facing track dropouts, rode fixie, before I sobered up and made it a geared bike..:)

[AngryScientist]

Single speed? Fixie? Good on ya. My Vamoots has rear facing track dropouts, rode fixie, before I sobered up and made it a geared bike..:)

this bike is filled with pixie dust magic. steel fork, fixed gear, one brake. rides like a magic carpet over any surface.

[happycampyer]

Nor are they 10x as 'good'...:)but $17,500 gravel bike? :eek:

BUT, ya reach a point of diminishing returns pretty fast on any bike.

https://www.habcycles.com/cross.html

$1045 for a disc brake model..add some 'stuff'..in the $2500 range and titanium.Agreed—diminishing returns for sure.

The stratospheric bikes I’ve seen have Lightweight disc wheels, CeramicSpeed doo-dads, etc. And a custom Parlee, Baum, Passoni or ti-carbon Firefly can easily hit $7 - 8K+ for frame/module/fuselage (depending on the terminology of the builder).

[oldpotatoe]

this bike is filled with pixie dust magic. steel fork, fixed gear, one brake. rides like a magic carpet over any surface.

HA..I have a steel fork on my Vamoots also...rides like a dream and yup, I take it onto the 'dirt/gravel' all the time..27mm Vittoria Paves...Tubular, of course.

[Gummee]

HA..I have a steel fork on my Vamoots also...rides like a dream and yup, I take it onto the 'dirt/gravel' all the time..27mm Vittoria Paves...Tubular, of course.

I have several pair of tubeless rims with varying tires on em and tubulars still ride better on the gravel than any of them.

...but you should see the looks I get when I tell people I'm riding tubulars! Like I've got a hand growing out of my forehead!

M

[robt57]

rides like a magic carpet over any surface.

Anything does on that pristine packed graded stone.

My Rail Road Ballast jaunt yesterday OTOH. With 47x650b had me wanting a fat bike....

[nobuseri]

this bike is filled with pixie dust magic. steel fork, fixed gear, one brake. rides like a magic carpet over any surface.

Fixed gear on gravel. That's pretty baller. Hats off to you, good sir. :beer:

[zap]

Titanium is indestructible. Untill it breaks. (who hasn´t heard of a high end titanium bike that cracked somewhere?)

Hand up. Busted a ti frame.

Crack in titanium tubing is pretty scary and not something you want to have happen in the middle of nowhere.

[tuscanyswe]

actually i think cracks and faults in high end titanium are very few. Hard to say without data but that would be my impression.

[boomforeal]

so it sounds like the reasons ti as a frame material is well suited to gravel bikes is

durability
- doesn't corrode like steel
- stronger/less prone to dent than aluminum
- not as brittle as carbon in a crash

aesthetics
- classic look
- raw finish less impacted by debris or bag-related wear

ride quality
- lively and compliant, like steel but lighter

full disclosure: i bought a 2nd hand ti frame last year. i tried the compliant steel thing and enjoyed the ride but cracked my frame doing something i'll likely do again. my first ti frame; i've only been out on a handful of rides but i like it quite a bit. i'm a bit of a chronic underbiker so i'm hoping the material is as strong as it is reputed to be

thanks all

[tmadrecki]

to the gentleman with the fixed moots - i salute you. #hero