tight chainstay clearance on my lynskey Ti allroad!

[wallymann]

like, literally, 1mm on the non-drive side. cranks are campy record UTs, frame is the pro-cross. plenty of space on the drive side.

shouldnt be too tough to crimp that if clearance becomes an issue...thoughts?

[Black Dog]

I would leave it. Call linskey before you start squeezing tubes. Something is not right about this and since you are not using spacers with a campy bb then it looks like a frame issue. How much clearance is on the other side?

[wallymann]

I would leave it. Call linskey before you start squeezing tubes. Something is not right about this and since you are not using spacers with a campy bb then it looks like a frame issue. How much clearance is on the other side?

drive side is A-OK.

[NYCfixie]

drive side is A-OK.

Having owned a few Lynskey's over the years (Sportive, R230, R255, R265, Sportive DISC, CooperCX) call them and show them the pics. That is too close knowing that it will flex and then rub.

I'll add that I no longer own any Lynskey's so draw your own conclusions.

[Bentley]

I would leave it. Call linskey before you start squeezing tubes. Something is not right about this and since you are not using spacers with a campy bb then it looks like a frame issue. How much clearance is on the other side?

I agree with your assessment here... if you were the builder would you be recommending a MTB crank?

Best

Ray

[unterhausen]

that first picture makes the crank arm look weird, like it's bulged out.

I might try a GRX before I go MTB

[rccardr]

Not a UT user or Lynskey owner and this may seem kinda stupid, but...
Italian bottom bracket? Installed backwards?

Something looks very wrong there....

[robt57]

I was pleased when I saw how the SRAM/CX1 sits on my same year Pro-CX frame. Wally and I kinda got these together, well close. I forgot which if us unduly influenced the other at this point.

Looks like the engineers had lunch that day and talked about work.

EDIT/Add: Drive side same clearance on mine with the CX1/GXP.

http://coupekiss.host-ed.me//images/CX1-Pro-CX.jpg

[robt57]

Crimp=cringe, not to mention high loss probability of warranty potential, no?

[robt57]

Frame is BSA, as are the UT cups already installed.

Not a UT user or Lynskey owner and this may seem kinda stupid, but...
Italian bottom bracket? Installed backwards?

Something looks very wrong there....

[jtbadge]

Is this a new frame? Return it. It is way out of alignment. Don't settle.

[wallymann]

nope. BSC.

Not a UT user or Lynskey owner and this may seem kinda stupid, but...
Italian bottom bracket? Installed backwards?

Something looks very wrong there....

[FlashUNC]

That rear triangle is way outta whack.

[robt57]

Wally, your hirth/bolt torqued for the pic? Is C clip 'in' on the drive side? RU Positive DS seated all the way in?? [why I asked if torqued]

______________
I just opened a new UT chainset box and looking at the ND ARM in relation to the cup I expect the same result with UT on mine.

I measured a UT install on another bike to measure how proud the arm sits outside the cup, then from cup seat on BB edge. Same exact thing as Wally, arm on top of stay.

Lets discount the frame alignment angle. Just wide there for the tire clearance/design.

I'd sure be on the phone with Lynskey with a definite WhatTheFuss??

[robt57]

Is this a new frame? Return it. It is way out of alignment. Don't settle.


That rear triangle is way outta whack.


Stop already, LOL.

[Hellgate]

Put a frame alignment tool on it. That's pretty jacked up. It should be spot on.

[Peter P.]

I'll add my 2 cents.

The frame will work with cranks with wider Q-factors.

[madsciencenow]

+1 for showing Lynskey a pic. Something seems wrong. I hope a stages PM wasn’t in the plans?


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[R3awak3n]

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

[wallymann]

Lets discount the frame alignment angle. Just wide there for the tire clearance/design.


concur.

i reached out to lynskey.

[Pegoready]

Guys, frame alignment and how close the cranks pass the chainstays are two completely separate things.

Clearly, they're using an asymmetric rear end evidenced by the yolk on the driveside and the round tubing on the non-driveside. You'll get different crank arm clearance visually.

Campy cranks have notoriously narrow Q-factors. My guess is they'll say the frame is aligned buy not specifically designed for Campy and to use a Shimano or SRAM crank for better results.

Who uses Campy on an all road bike anyway? Didn't they create the H11 group specifically to address this issue?

[robt57]

>>>To achieve a harmonious chain line with disc-equipped wheels, Campy pushes out the H11 Cassette and Crankset by 2.5-millimeters each to accommodate the wider spacing of 12 x 142mm rear axles.<<<

And UT too.

Guys, frame alignment and how close the cranks pass the chainstays are two completely separate things.

Clearly, they're using an asymmetric rear end evidenced by the yolk on the driveside and the round tubing on the non-driveside. You'll get different crank arm clearance visually.

Campy cranks have notoriously narrow Q-factors. My guess is they'll say the frame is aligned buy not specifically designed for Campy and to use a Shimano or SRAM crank for better results.

Who uses Campy on an all road bike anyway? Didn't they create the H11 group specifically to address this issue?

[ntb1001]

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just a Campy issue.
I used a Dura Ace direct mount under BB caliper on my Parlee and my Campy crank wouldn’t clear the caliper arm.
My problem was easily fixed with a mini grinder and shaved a bit off the outside of brake caliper arm just enough for crank arm to clear.


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[commonguy001]

I had an Urbano which used the same design.
Shimano cranks were tight enough that you couldn’t run a Stages but there was more clearance than that campy crank and plenty for everyday use. I swap those to a Praxis and had plenty of room for a 4iiii PM.

If you have access to something Praxis or Shimano I’d try to put them on before you determine it’s not square.

[oldpotatoe]

Put a frame alignment tool on it. That's pretty jacked up. It should be spot on.

Gotta agree..with Campag cranks(or any crank) installed correctly, the distances from the chainstays, left and right, 'should' be the same. As long as the chainstays are 'bent' and shaped, the same. Usually, on some 'cross'/dirt frames, that rely on 135mm spacing, the RH side, chainrings or crank arm, is too close but left side is unusual.

[oldpotatoe]

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

Can't really put spacers on most outboard bearing cranks these days. :)

[oldpotatoe]

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just a Campy issue.
I used a Dura Ace direct mount under BB caliper on my Parlee and my Campy crank wouldn’t clear the caliper arm.
My problem was easily fixed with a mini grinder and shaved a bit off the outside of brake caliper arm just enough for crank arm to clear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, Campag cranks are designed for essentially road bikes with the brake caliper up on the seat stays or for disc. An under BB, direct mount, DA brake on a Parlee..I wouldn't say that's a 'Campy issue'..Yes some cranks with thinner arms may work better but..I built a 'Boardman' tri bike with sram and under BB brake and NO crank worked..it was a frame design issue, not a crank issue.

[wallymann]

I don't think frame is out of wack but your campy is not going to work. I had the same problem on my OPEN, campy crank would not fit. drive side ok and NDS it was exactly like that. And of course with campy you are kinda SOL since you can't put spacers or anything like that.

my recollection is that the lower-tier solid-core UT carbon cranks like chorus/athena/centaur dont have that inward/medial bulge on the ND crankarm. so i'll be searching for a compact version of them!

EDIT: i just did a quick comparo between my records and chorus UTs and the medial ND bulge is definitely in a different, more chainstay-friendly location!

[R3awak3n]

Can't really put spacers on most outboard bearing cranks these days. :)

You are right. I guess I have been used to 30mm cranks with a long spindle that require spacers.


my recollection is that the lower-tier solid-core UT carbon cranks like athena/centaur dont have that inward/medial bulge on the ND crankarm. so i'll be searching for a compact version of them!

EDIT: i just did a quick comparo between my records and chorus UTs and the medial ND bulge is definitely in a different, more chainstay-friendly location!


I tried 2 cranks on my bike, a 4 arm chorus (2015+ but no ho) and a 5 arm super record. Neither fit. Looking by your pictures though, looks like the chorus would work.

[d_douglas]

Why do t you just throw that Chorus one on the Lynskey to test your theory? I am surprised how different the two look!

[CAAD]

Yikes, I thought my GXP stages arm was cutting it close, no issues to speak of. Time to swap cranks. Lynskey builds a solid bike I willing to bet the frame is just fine.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PHLtxQw1dcM/Xkqs2oVm5gI/AAAAAAAA_Gg/tNPyP4phujYG1F85HajyX6J52NptGW04QCKgBGAsYHg/s640/20200206_144927.jpg

[Black Dog]

my recollection is that the lower-tier solid-core UT carbon cranks like athena/centaur dont have that inward/medial bulge on the ND crankarm. so i'll be searching for a compact version of them!

EDIT: i just did a quick comparo between my records and chorus UTs and the medial ND bulge is definitely in a different, more chainstay-friendly location!

You do not need to buy a compact chorus crank set. As long as the arms are the same length you can just put on the chorus NDS arm with the Record DS arm.

[unterhausen]

there is no way to test the alignment on this bike that would address the location of the bend in the stay. Hard to know if they precisely control the place where the stay hits the bb shell or not, or if there is variation in the stay bends. You can't judge by symmetry, because it's an asymmetric design. People are building asymmetric rear triangles nowadays because it's hard to fit the chain rings and a big tire together as closely as people want. Trek has at least one gravel-oriented model with asymmetric chain stays, and I'm sure there are others

[wallymann]

there is no way to test the alignment on this bike that would address the location of the bend in the stay. Hard to know if they precisely control the place where the stay hits the bb shell or not, or if there is variation in the stay bends. You can't judge by symmetry, because it's an asymmetric design. People are building asymmetric rear triangles nowadays because it's hard to fit the chain rings and a big tire together as closely as people want. Trek has at least one gravel-oriented model with asymmetric chain stays, and I'm sure there are others

totally agree. chainstay/crank clearance these days has basically nothing to do with BB centerline symmetry. take a look at allied's gravel bike:

https://www.biketoday.news/storage/articles/4087/1572524660_0.jpg

[robt57]

As long as the arms are the same length you can just put on the chorus NDS arm with the Record DS arm.

You don't know Wally very well.:bike:

[robt57]

Wally asked me tire fit questions, My CX-Pro been together for a while now.

It's wearing Soma 38 Supple Vitesse. So I grabbed a tire off the wall mounted it on a 622x20c wheel and tossed it on.
A 29er tire, too. ;)

I expected it to hit before I got the TA holes lined up. It did not.

Talk about monster CX.

So for anyone wondering What a Pro CX is capable of to the greedy side, there it is.

I actually got it for 47x650b due to the higher BB than a true gravel bike. Plus I hate a slow front end...

http://coupekiss.host-ed.me//images/ttf/Temp/20200217_103127.jpg

http://coupekiss.host-ed.me//images/ttf/Temp/20200217_103202.jpg

http://coupekiss.host-ed.me//images/ttf/Temp/20200217_103143.jpg

http://coupekiss.host-ed.me//images/ttf/Temp/20200217_103106.jpg

[DfCas]

Is the tire closer on the non drive side or is it an optical delusion?

[wallymann]

Is the tire closer on the non drive side or is it an optical delusion?

looks wonky, must not be in the D/Os fully

[robt57]

looks wonky, must not be in the D/Os fully

Optical delusion. Actually, the TA axle is not tightened.. Not to mention I do not intend to ride it, so tire may not be uniformly seated either.

[Plum Hill]

Regarding photo in post #28: something looks amiss at the crank arm/bb cup area. Arm doesn't look parallel to cup, like the bearing is cocked in the cup.

[wallymann]

thanks to mr. thwart i got a set of 10spd chorus UTs. and the clearance situation is much improved. we're at like ~5 mm, which to me is plenty. looks tighter in the pic than it actually is.

fwiw...i've ridden steel bikes with relatively flexy super-record cranks with 2mm clearance to chainstays for years (and this was +30 years back when i could actually put out some power), so this much clearance and my older/pathetic power output will be absolutely fine.

[wallymann]

Regarding photo in post #28: something looks amiss at the crank arm/bb cup area. Arm doesn't look parallel to cup, like the bearing is cocked in the cup.

thats down to visual parallax distortion. the cranks are square to the BB, as the central fixing bolt is holding the half-spindles tight!

fwiw...here's the prior comparison image:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697992812&stc=1&d=1581945951

[C40_guy]

[QUOTE=ntb1001;2658804]I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just a Campy issue.
I used a Dura Ace direct mount under BB caliper on my Parlee and my Campy crank wouldn’t clear the caliper arm.

/QUOTE]

Wait, a U brake? I have one of those on my '86 Wicked Fat Chance.