New to me Moots on the way! Need build help!

[jckid]

Well I think I really lucked out! I found a Moots on Craigslist in another state and was thinking there was no way I could do a long distance transaction and would have to let it go. I contacted the seller anyway and found out that he works at a bike shop and we could handle the whole transaction through the shop. I took the plunge, and it should be here at the end of the week. I'm crossing my fingers that it turns out to be everything I expect.

The frame is a 16" Moots Rigormootis. I would appreciate any feedback you guys might have on some of my build ideas. I am 5'5" tall (in bike shoes) and 105 lbs. I would like to get the bike built near 20lbs. Here are some of the items I am looking at:


Fork -
RockShox SID Race or Fox F80 RL (SID is lighter, but F80 has lockout)

Crankset -
Something fairly lightweight with a non-outboard bearing bottom bracket - Any suggestions? Also, should I stick with 170mm cranks like I use on my road bike?

Wheelset -
Mavic Crossmax SL - Is that a good choice for a lightweight rider? I like the looks of them.

Tires -
I want a tire no wider than 1.9" (1.8's and 1.9's have worked well for me in the past). Would I be crazy to try something like the Continental Crosscountry 1.5" tire? I won't be doing real aggressive riding--mainly crosscountry riding on smooth trails, fire roads, and a little pavement (not much mud or rocks).

[iml]

I know you want to keep it really light, but pass on the SID. I've actually had some that I thought were OK in terms of reliability, but the Fox is just a better fork and worth the weight. I do like the Reba, though, for XC riding...at least more than I like the SID.

Forget the 1.5 tires, too. While that skinny Conti is a nice tire and I'm glad they make it, for true off road riding there are plenty of nice, light options that are more capable. If you're light, ride in Cali and it's not wet, and don't mind a weenie tire that Archibald won't like, try a Kenda Karma. Rolls fast, light, and has decent volume for a smaller tire. The Kenda Nevegal 1.95 is pretty sweet too; a bit more aggro than the Karma, a bit heavier, but still very capable for XC riding and on the smaller side overall. Again, Archibald only rides 2.5s with 1.95s inside them for extra beef, so he'll poo poo this, but it should work for a weight weenie (it does for me).

SRAM shifting. I actually like the X.O twisters, and they're light.

Get an old(er) school XT or XTR crankset and you'll be happy.

Oh, wheels. The Crossmax is fine, but, as with Ksyriums on the road, there are numerous ways to get a lighter wheelset w/o breaking the bank. I like DT 240 hubs on Stan's rims, but that's just me...

[gdw]

2 questions:
Are you building it up as a single speed or geared bike?
What's your budget?

[jckid]

2 questions:
Are you building it up as a single speed or geared bike?
What's your budget?

My original plan was to build a SS, but now I'm thinking that I'll probably go geared. I have not totally ruled out the SS idea though. I have thought about the possibility of initially setting it up SS (with a non-singlespeed wheelset and chain tensioner) just to try it out and then change it to a geared setup later.

As far as budget, I don't want to spend over $425 on a fork. I've found a new Fox F80 RL for that price and a SID for a little less. As for the rest of the setup, I'm leaning toward SRAM X.0 and want to keep the parts under $1500. I am considering V-brakes and mechanical disc brakes.

[iml]

Regarding brakes, I like Avid vees over anything else if you don't want discs and don't want to pay for some Motolites from Paul. Although I only use discs on MTBs - partially due to where I live - a well set-up pair of vee brakes can work very well, especially at your weight and in your (presumably) dry environment.

Have you considered a rigid fork? The Pace rigid might not be beautiful to everyone, but it's within your price range and would go a long way toward helping achieve your target weight.

[sbornia]

Also, should I stick with 170mm cranks like I use on my road bike?

Typical mtb crank length is 175mm, to provide greater leverage on steep climbs.

[jckid]

a well set-up pair of vee brakes can work very well, especially at your weight and in your (presumably) dry environment.

Have you considered a rigid fork?

I do live in a dry area of CA, so V-brakes are definitely an option. I am thinking, however, that this will also be my "rain bike", since I hate to take my road bike out in wet weather, so discs could also be a possibility. I like the look of discs better, but of course I understand the weight penalty too. Obviously I have to figure this out before I buy a fork, unless I get a fork with both types of brake mounts. I don't think I want to go with a rigid fork at this time.

[gdw]

This a a great time of the year to be buying parts. The mail order shops are clearing out inventory to make way for the new 2007 designs and Ebay prices are always good after Christmas. You should be able to put together a nice light bike with that budget especially if you can assemble it yourself.

I'd agree with iml on the brakes. Disks are overkill for your intended use and will add at least a pound to the build unless you want to spend half of your overall budget on top end models and custom lightweight wheels. You can pick up a set (levers and f/r v's) of new Avid SL's for under $110 off of Ebay. The SL's are lighter than any of the stock hi-zoot disks from Magura, Shimano, or Formula, and $400 less.

For wheels, I'd go with a light build using XTR hubs. CrossMax SL's are a good factory wheelset but expensive and use proprietary spokes.

At 5'5 you probably would be comfortable using 172.5mm or 175mm crankarms. Go with older high quality square taper models or Shimano Octalink models if you aren't an external bearing fan. Isis models can often be found a great prices but the bottom brackets have a bad reputation when it comes to durabilty.

Sram's XO derailleaurs and shifters are great components. Lightweight and durable.

There are quite a few options when it comes to tires. Once again I agree with iml. 1.9 or wider. Continental Twister Pros or Explorers work really well on hardpark and are under 520 grams. Hutchinson Python Airlights are wider but light and versatile. They work well in most conditions and are surprising fast on pavement.

As to forks, the SID, Fox, or Reba are all good choices. Go with the one which has the features you need at the best price. Lockout is nice if you are going to be riding pavement.

Good luck

[Steelhead]

Fork - go with the Fox or if you are looking for a light wieght option, the Manitou Skareb is a nice choice.

Cranks - Truvativ Stylos are a nice option, relatively light and not too pricey.

Brakes/Drive Train - Can't beat XT for durability and a decent price.

Wheels - get some built, possible Mavic 817 or 717s laced up on XT hubs or White Ind. hubs.

Bar/stem/seaqtpost - this is where you can throw in a little carbon like an Easton Monkey Lite bar, a nice light stem like a Ritchey WCS or Thompson and a Thompson elite seatpost.

Man this sounds like a great project and the above build is very solid, not too pricey and would make a nice ride. Post some Pics! :banana:

[Serpico]

put some gold on it, and a brooks saddle.

[Jack Brunk]

Fox F80X best fork made on the 3 inch category.

Go with disc brakes only. Forget V brakes

Go with cranks 2.5mm longer than your road cranks.


Jack

[Louis]

At 5'5 you probably would be comfortable using 172.5mm or 175mm crankarms.

I know essentially zero about MTB fits, but I have to believe that a 175 crankarm for a 5'5 individual would be too long. Certainly on a road bike for that person that would be waaaay out there. I know they tend to be longer on MTBs, but not that long at that leg length (I would think).

Just my 0.02$

Louis

PS I now see that Jack beat me to the crank length comment.

[crossjunkee]

Skip on the SID, to much flex, and not very reliable.

Colorado Cyclist has last years XTR 965 disk brake kit on sale. I'm thinking about them, but I can't give up V-brakes. They still work fine, even for CO, and have less maint.

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/common/products/productdisplay2_v2.cfm?PRRFNBR=43106&S=42659,42667,42675,42629,42633,42627,42628,42623, 42618,42619,28400,42625,42621,28404,28405,42679,28 409,42580,42581,28413,42582,42585,28418,42588,2842 1,28422,42589,42590,42591,42595,42592,43106,28426, 29677,42361,28431

[jckid]

Skip on the SID, to much flex, and not very reliable.



I've decided to go with the Fox F80RL. I found a good deal on one, and I've read pretty good things about Fox quality. It has disc and V mounts, so I still have time to think about brakes.

Now for the real bummer! UPS lost my Moots frame! :crap: I am so disappointed, and I hope that it turns up in their system real soon--like today! How can they lose such a large package? :confused: Thankfully it was shipped fully insured, but I want my frame. A new Moots was out of the question for me, because of the price, so this used 2005 model seemed to be just the ticket for me to get the bike I really want.

[gt6267a]

I've decided to go with the Fox F80RL. I found a good deal on one, and I've read pretty good things about Fox quality. It has disc and V mounts, so I still have time to think about brakes.

Now for the real bummer! UPS lost my Moots frame! :crap: I am so disappointed, and I hope that it turns up in their system real soon--like today! How can they lose such a large package? :confused: Thankfully it was shipped fully insured, but I want my frame. A new Moots was out of the question for me, because of the price, so this used 2005 model seemed to be just the ticket for me to get the bike I really want.

see, here is what happened. the bike is just my size. you seemed concerned about the purchase. the frame fairy dropped it off at my house. i moved all the parts from my smoothie al to your rigor. i will ride it for the next five years. if it does not break, that will prove it is safe for you to ride and i'll ship it to you.

seriously, shipping hassles suck. sorry to hear about that. good luck to you. if you happen to want to get rid of the bike, let me know. we might work something out.

[zank]

When your frame turns up in the UPS warehouse and you get your hands on it, here are my suggestions.

Your fork choice is spot on. I am going with a Manitou R7 Platinum this year, mostly because I have not ridden a Manitou in years and want to give it a try. But the F80RL was in the running.

Brakes- Formula Oro disks. K24 if you want to save a few bucks. Puros if you want to save a few grams.

Weight Weenie wheels - DT 240S disk hubs, notubes Olympic ZTR rims, Sapim Laser spokes.

Crankset - I am going with a TA Carmina crank and Phil Wood BB this year. 29/42 rings. I have heard lots of good things about the crank, but I have no personal experiance, yet. Most 5'5" mountain riders would use a 175 mm crank.

Tires - The Schwalbe Fast Fred Light comes in a 2.0. That may be a nice choice for a fast, XC tire.

I know 20# is your goal. Here is my anticipated build for this season. The total of the parts (no frame) is 8070 grams or 17.8#. I figure I will be just under 21# with a 3.3# frame. 20# is doable, but it will take some trick parts if you go with disks (which I whole-heartedly suggest). You can use this for reference.

Fork - R7 Plat 80 mm - 1483 g This weight was listed on Weight Weenies for the 100 mm version w/ full length steerer
Headset - King - 131 g cap and bolt will be replaced though
Headset Spacer - 10 g
BB - PW Ti 103 mm - 172 g nice short Q-factor (146 mm)
Crank - TA Carmina Light 29/42, 175 mm - 610 g
Front Brake - Formula Oro Puro Post Mount 160 mm w/ ti rotor bolts - 350 g Should be lighter since no adapter needed and ti rotor bolts
Rear Brake - Formula Oro Puro IS 160 mm w/ ti rotor bolts - 350 g Should be lighter with the ti rotor bolts
Shifters - X.0 twist - 199 g w/ stock cables installed
Rear Derailleur - X.0 Short Cage - 196 g
Front Derailleur - Campagnolo Record braze-on - 70 g
Cassette - XTR M960 14/34 8v with spacer - 251 g started as 12/34, removed 12 and 14 tooth cogs and replaced with 14 end position cog.
Chain - SRAM 991 full length - 301 g A few links will be removed
Derailleur Cable Housing - 100 g conservative guess
Bar - WCS flat 25.4 580 mm - 146 g will be cut to 550 mm
Bar-Ends - WCS - 99 g will be tuned with ti bolts
Grips - WCS w/ bar plugs - 58 g will be cut for Gripshift
Stem - WCS 120 mm - 112 g will be tuned with ti bolts
Seat Post - Thomson Elite 27.2 x 410 mm - 289 g will be cut to close to 360 mm.
Saddle - Flite - 232 g
Pedals - Egg Beater SL w/ short Ti spindles - 232 g
Hubs - King Iso Disk - 470 g
Rims - notubes ZTR Olympic w/ yellow tape and valve - 800 g conservative estimate
Spokes - Sapim Laser and alloy nipples - 320 g conservative estimate
Front Tire - Racing Ralph 2.25 - 513 g
Rear Tire - Racing Ralph 2.1 - 489 g
Tubes - none
Skewers - Salsa ti front stainless rear - 93 g

Estimate weight of parts without frame is 8070 g. Should be lighter with steerer cut, seat post and bar trimmed, ti bolts on stem and bar ends, ti rotor bolts, and lighter headset cap and bolt.

[gdw]

Nice build but it might top the $1500 budget. :D
Hey Zank, how much does one of your lugged MTB frames weigh?

[zank]

Thanks, gdw. Yeah, I knew it would be over the $$$ limit, but it could be used as a guide. Under 20# on a $1500 budget is tough for sure, even with v-brakes.

Not sure on the weight for a lugged mtb. Maybe just under 4#? The fillet brazed frame I am working on should be under 3.5#.

[jckid]

Crankset - I am going with a TA Carmina crank and Phil Wood BB this year. 29/42 rings.

Thanks for all of the build tips! I looked up the TA crank--looks nice! I wondered about the possibility of going with a double instead of a triple on a mountain bike. I prefer the reduced Q that a double provides. Now I may give that some thought. Is the road derailluer required because of the double crankset or would a standard mountain derailluer (triple) work with that setup? Also, did I read correctly on the TA website that you have to go with the 94mm version to be able to run a 29T inner ring?

[Louis]

My only comment about the TA cranks is that you should be sure to get one that is IN STOCK. If Peter White or Mike Barry has to order it from TA it might take ages. It took over six months for TA to finally get around to shipping my Carmina. Mike told me that he's given up on trying to hurry them, since it seems to do no help, so he just lives with it.

Louis

[crossjunkee]

Skip the TA cranks. I have them on my cross bike and don't care for the design. My ankle hits the raised center of the crankarm where the bottom bracket screws are. I'd stick with XT or XTR. Like I said before, Colorado Cyclist is closing out last years XTR stuff. You should check their website....