Cable housing rub

[SJTaylor]

I’m too new to post a photo yet so I’ll describe the cable housing rub problem on my new to me Serotta CDA. The bike has Ultegra. The cable housing lug that sends the shifter cable down the down tube is located very close to the front brake cable housing path. No problem when the front wheel is straight but when I turn left the brake cable housing and the shifter cable housing interfere and rub.

This seems not right and I can’t think of how to improve the situation. Does my description make sense? Am I missing something? Any suggestions?

The brifter cable housings from the bar to the head tube are shorter than I would make them but I doubt longer housings would help.

Thanks.

[eddief]

you have to run the housing down to the front brake. you can either run it on the inside or the outside of the shifter cable. usually one side or the other will result in very little if any interference when the steerer is turned a normal amount. my recollection is that i usually have run mine outside of brake cable.

[muz]

I’m too new to post a photo yet ...

This seems not right and I can’t think of how to improve the situation. Does my description make sense? Am I missing something? Any suggestions?


Hard to know what's going on without a picture or two. I think anybody can post pictures.

[Blue Jays]

If I am grasping your post correctly...what about criss-crossing the cables beneath your downtube to see if that improves things?

[oldpotatoe]

I’m too new to post a photo yet so I’ll describe the cable housing rub problem on my new to me Serotta CDA. The bike has Ultegra. The cable housing lug that sends the shifter cable down the down tube is located very close to the front brake cable housing path. No problem when the front wheel is straight but when I turn left the brake cable housing and the shifter cable housing interfere and rub.

This seems not right and I can’t think of how to improve the situation. Does my description make sense? Am I missing something? Any suggestions?

The brifter cable housings from the bar to the head tube are shorter than I would make them but I doubt longer housings would help.

Thanks.

Very common problem with 'some' frames and calipers(ultegra for sure)where the caliper arm is very close(interferes?) with the RH shifter housing. Head tube shifter cable stops?
Think that's what you are seeing.

The 'best' solution is a different front brake caliper..I have solved it with Campagnolo ones, as they seem to have a caliper 'arm' that's more splayed out.

Campag caliper.

[AngryScientist]

I’m too new to post a photo yet .

did you take a look at the tutorial thread i linked in your other post on how to post photos?

[MikeD]

These things may solve the problem of cable rub, if rerouting or changing cable housing lengths don't work https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Bicycle-Cable-Frame-Protector/dp/B07C8MZD9V

Also, I found that I can prevent cable rub by having the left and right cable housings different lengths. That may or may not help your situation, but I think people assume that L&R housing lengths must be the same.

[bpiecuch]

I'm building up my 2002 Serotta Peloton, and am running into this same problem as the OP. I, however, have pictures. (3rd pic to show the overall bike)

Bike is currently semi-built with Ultegra 6600 brake calipers and the barrel adjusters are taken from a set of downtube bosses. I do have some Ultegra 6700 calipers I could use, but they will probably have a similar arm position. There is zero ability to run the shift cable housing with this caliper. It runs directly into the brake arm and adjuster.

I'm not familiar enough with Serotta frames to know if this is isolated to this limited run Peloton, or if it's a common problem. Any advice? Any other calipers that have better cable clearance? I know the OEM brass barrel adjusters are a little shorter, but I don't think those will help...

Thanks!

[dave thompson]

For those situations where the front brake caliper arm interferes with the the routing of the shift cable there are 2 easy solutions. The first is that when the front brake is set up the arm will be moved outboard and you can run the shift cable on the inside of the brake cable and arm. There will be some very slight interference when the handlebars are turned to the left but if the brake cable is slightly long there are no issues. The second solution is to run the front shift cable to the right cable stop and the rear shift cable to the the left cable stop then cross the shift cables underneath the downtube and to their correct positions in the bottom bracket cable guide. Works perfectly. I've done both solutions on a number of Serottas I've set up. Both are easy.

[oldpotatoe]

I’m too new to post a photo yet so I’ll describe the cable housing rub problem on my new to me Serotta CDA. The bike has Ultegra. The cable housing lug that sends the shifter cable down the down tube is located very close to the front brake cable housing path. No problem when the front wheel is straight but when I turn left the brake cable housing and the shifter cable housing interfere and rub.

This seems not right and I can’t think of how to improve the situation. Does my description make sense? Am I missing something? Any suggestions?

The brifter cable housings from the bar to the head tube are shorter than I would make them but I doubt longer housings would help.

Thanks.

Common on this frame and a caliper with a wider, more offset outboard 'arm', will work..I have been able to use Campag front brakes.

ACK, zombie thread from January..for right above, even if you cross the der housing, the housing still interferes with the caliper arm...

[loxx0050]

It's a bit pricey but a Tririg Omega X caliper might work for a few of those pictured above situations. It has a centered brake cable. It's pricey because it's designed for aero for Triathlon and TTs in mind to save a few watts but can be run in standard and direct mount modes.

https://www.tririg.com/images/store/960/000_Store_637.jpg

Otherwise an center pull type of caliper might be a solution..I think.

[oldpotatoe]

It's a bit pricey but a Tririg Omega X caliper might work for a few of those pictured above situations. It has a centered brake cable. It's pricey because it's designed for aero for Triathlon and TTs in mind to save a few watts but can be run in standard and direct mount modes.

https://www.tririg.com/images/store/960/000_Store_637.jpg

Otherwise an center pull type of caliper might be a solution..I think.

DELTAS!! Or shimano AX!!!

[jtakeda]

Very common problem with 'some' frames and calipers(ultegra for sure)where the caliper arm is very close(interferes?) with the RH shifter housing. Head tube shifter cable stops?
Think that's what you are seeing.

The 'best' solution is a different front brake caliper..I have solved it with Campagnolo ones, as they seem to have a caliper 'arm' that's more splayed out.

Campag caliper.

Old potatoe knows.

I had this same problem with my kirk and the mavic ssc brakes I wanted to use--switched to campy and no problem-

[bpiecuch]

Installed some Shimano 5800 brakes today, miles of clearance. Who knew... The newer brakes have wider arms, and the adjustment nut sits lower. Also, the arm is much more forward than the older brake arm. So, clearance in all directions. Plus, the wider opening fits my wider wheels too. Winning.

Thanks all.