Campy 12 build: new ferrules

[cgolvin]

The packaging includes 4 new style ferrules, the inline FD cable tension adjuster, and what looks like an old style ferrule. I think the following is the intended design but would like to confirm.

Old style ferrule goes in the larger diameter side of the inline FD cable tension adjuster.
New style ferrules go into the downtube cable guides, and on either side of the final piece of RD cable housing -- entering the RD and on the DS chainstay braze-on.

Also, what's your preference for placement of the FD cable tension adjuster? I'm thinking just ahead of the downtube cable guide, before the housing starts to bend toward the bars. Or, given that I have downtube cable tension adjusters, should I just forgo this addition?

Thanks

[dddd]

By all means don't add a redundant cable adjuster!

I built up an S-Works this morning and forgot to add an adjuster for the SRAM Red FD, luckily I was able to use noodles to temporarily hold my cable position in the downtube and around up to the FD while I pulled the cable and cut the housing for the adjuster!
I try to get adjusters out of sight, up under the bars but certain not to clatter against anything.

Ferrules are somewhat a personal choice depending on the needs of the particular frame and riding conditions I suppose. Where a cable might exit a ferrule at an angle, the flanged noodles may give smoother operation.
Shielding options may include extended-tip ferrules with or without supplemental seals on the end.
I threw away half of the ferrules that this S-Works frameset came with, mixed in with the bag full of Di2 and wireless plugs, grommets and covers. I used flanged noodles going into the downtube, and also some thicker ones at both ends of the rear brake cable's toptube run.
I added a seal to the end of the noodle/tube running up to the FD, since water and dirt off the rear tire would otherwise go right in.

I made a tool for checking up on whether the cables were crossed inside of the downtube, should have done this years ago.

[ultraman6970]

Can you explain the tool part better?

ps: with campagnolo you can live w/o the cable adjusters, my potenza came with one but never put it, no idea bout 12 tho, i was the op I would go w/o it and if trim is needed on the fly add the cable adjuster.

[Dave]

With 12 speed you will appreciate the inline cable adjuster. My frame has no adjusters, so I put the one for the FD not far up from the frame cable stop. It will not touch the frame and it can be accessed for adjustment. The newer 11 and 12 speed FDs don't adjust quite like traditional models, so watch the video before being frustrated.

[cgolvin]

With 12 speed you will appreciate the inline cable adjuster. My frame has no adjusters, so I put the one for the FD not far up from the frame cable stop. It will not touch the frame and it can be accessed for adjustment. The newer 11 and 12 speed FDs don't adjust quite like traditional models, so watch the video before being frustrated.

Thanks Dave, I've watched the video so think I get the new adjustment approach.

But I'm confused by your first comment -- are you advocating using the inline cable tension adjuster in addition to the adjusters I have? I am currently disinclined to do so, one fewer housing cut to make…

[Dave]

If the frame has adjusters, that's all you need. My frame has none. I missed that your frame already has the adjuster. In that case, the plastic ferrules with the pigtail go into the adjuster.

[oldpotatoe]

The packaging includes 4 new style ferrules, the inline FD cable tension adjuster, and what looks like an old style ferrule. I think the following is the intended design but would like to confirm.

Old style ferrule goes in the larger diameter side of the inline FD cable tension adjuster.
New style ferrules go into the downtube cable guides, and on either side of the final piece of RD cable housing -- entering the RD and on the DS chainstay braze-on.

Also, what's your preference for placement of the FD cable tension adjuster? I'm thinking just ahead of the downtube cable guide, before the housing starts to bend toward the bars. Or, given that I have downtube cable tension adjusters, should I just forgo this addition?

Thanks

Like dddd, I'd recommend NOT using the inline cable adjuster. It doesn't
'hurt' to use it but it's not necessary..
When in lowest gear..small ring and biggest cog in back. Adjust FD so outer cage parallel to big ring, and inner cage just tickling the chain. Pull cable TIGHT, push down on thumb button, and secure to FD cable fixing bolt. THEN turn inner limit screw OUT a wee bit. This will make the cable TIGHT and also get the chain off the FD inner cage..shift down to smallest cog in back..3 clicks of LH shifter..gently..chain to big ring..outer limit screw just touching stop..done. Campag requires the cable be TIGHT..why the adjuster but you can make it TIGHT with the above.