Problem re-lacing with Pacenti Brevet rims

[muz]

I decided to replace my trusty Open Pro rims with Pacenti Brevet, as the front was nearly used up and I wanted to try tubeless. De-tensioned and removed old spokes, cleaned up the hubs, started lacing. Then I immediately ran into a problem.

The issue has to do with the key spoke. In every other rim I have used, the key spoke is one away from the valve hole. These rims have it next to the spoke hole. The problem wasn't immediately apparent to me when I laced the first set of spokes. But when I moved to the other side of the rim, it turns out that the second set I was supposed to run on the outside of the flange had previously been laced on the inside. So, if I kept my normal lacing scheme, one side of the hub would have a different lacing than the last time.

To me, this is a significant annoyance that detracts from an otherwise nice rim. Has anyone else used one to replace another rim?

Is there something I have missed? Given that the spoke holes are almost in the middle, should have ignored the proper key spoke and laced it the wrong way (left flange spokes going to the right side holes)?

[ultraman6970]

I dont know man... keep the same pattern at the hub, the only issue IMO will be that maybe the hole for the valve will be at the wrong set of spokes but besides that the wheel will be useable. Ive had the problem you are talking about, since is not a wheel for a client (i do not work building wheels) i do not sweat it too much.

[speedevil]

It sounds like the Pacenti rim is drilled with a different "handedness" than the Open Pro rim.

For some rims, the key spoke is next to the valve stem, for other it is one spoke hole away.

It depends on whether or not the spoke hole next to the valve hole is above or below the centerline of the rim (when it's lying flat on the table). Some rims are drilled with all spoke holes in the center of the rim, so there is no "handedness" for that type of rim.

Sheldon explains it pretty well, so I won't bother to try and type it here. But if your rim has the spoke holes offset from the centerline, the build will be easier to true and will hold it's true longer if you pay attention to the "handedness" when setting the key spoke.

[muz]

I dont know man... keep the same pattern at the hub, the only issue IMO will be that maybe the hole for the valve will be at the wrong set of spokes but besides that the wheel will be useable.


My OCD would not allow it; I would notice it every time I pump up the wheel.


Sheldon explains it pretty well, so I won't bother to try and type it here. But if your rim has the spoke holes offset from the centerline, the build will be easier to true and will hold it's true longer if you pay attention to the "handedness" when setting the key spoke.

Yes, this much I know. :banana:

The issue is that if the hub has been previously laced with different handed rim, there is no obvious way to re-use it with this rim in a "proper" way.

[tctyres]

Is there something I have missed? Given that the spoke holes are almost in the middle, should have ignored the proper key spoke and laced it the wrong way (left flange spokes going to the right side holes)?

Presumably, the wheel is something like 3x?

If you lace the front the wrong way, it is unlikely anything will happen. If you lace the rear wrong, the spokes will fatigue fairly quickly because the drive side is under more tension. I learned both of these from experience. I had a mis-laced front that I rode for 10k miles with no issues. I had a rear mis-laced that I didn't break a few hundred miles before I bought new spokes and re-did it.

Lace one side to the new rim as-is. You will need to rotate the new rim relative to the old rim one spoke hole. (make sure it's the right way!)

From there, rotate the other side spokes in the opposite direction. You will have a different leading--trailing pattern, but the sense of in and out will be the same at the flange.

[muz]

Lace one side to the new rim as-is. You will need to rotate the new rim relative to the old rim one spoke hole. (make sure it's the right way!)

From there, rotate the other side spokes in the opposite direction. You will have a different leading--trailing pattern, but the sense of in and out will be the same at the flange.

Yes, this is probably the best solution, similar to how Shimano recommends for disc wheels. Still a little strange. This is probably how I would do it if I were to do it again.

This particular wheelset was for fixed gear, and the rims have drilling almost on the center line; you have to look carefully to determine the offset. So any approach would probably be OK. I ended up lacing as usual so you can see the outline of the previous spokes on one flange, which looks a little ugly.