Genius or potentially stupid .....(handlebar content)

[azrider]

Sooo.....for some reason my gravel bike had aero handlebars on it and after riding a buddies bike with flared bars I wanted to give them try.

After few beers I decided I’d try making my own with some normal drop down bars I had lying around.

What could possibly go wrong???

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191211/bf1d21bd5d1729eda4652eb6804328f3.jpg


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[kramnnim]

Worst case, the fatigued metal fails while you are riding and you crash facefirst into the pavement and smash out your front teeth and the traffic around you crashes into each other.

Actually, it could be worse than that...

[kramnnim]

Also, the way you have it pictured...the tops might bend at the clamp area. If you want the flare, you should make sure it only bends at the first bend of the bars.

[Black Dog]

If the bars were heat treated after bering formed you should not try and set them into a different position. :eek:

[azrider]

Worst case, the fatigued metal fails while you are riding and you crash facefirst into the pavement and smash out your front teeth and the traffic around you crashes into each other.

Actually, it could be worse than that...

Dude this made me lol............seriously.....

But serious question.......where do you think it may potentially "fatigue" first?? Again.........serious question

[Blue Jays]

New handlebars are quite inexpensive.
I assume you are posting this as a joke.
You are posting this in humor, right?

[AngryScientist]

nice troll post.

no, cold setting aluminum handlebars is a bad idea.

case closed.

[azrider]

nice troll post.

no, cold setting aluminum handlebars is a bad idea.

case closed.

What do you mean by troll post? Seriously.....

I shouldn't claim to have come up with the idea myself, as I stole the idea from someone else.

It's alloy......I've never in my life heard of alloy bars fatiguing to the point of failure.

[azrider]

nice troll post.

no, cold setting aluminum handlebars is a bad idea.

case closed.

Google told me this:

An Internet troll is a member of an online social community who deliberately tries to disrupt, attack, offend or generally cause trouble within the community by posting certain comments, photos, videos, GIFs or some other form of online content.

That certainly wasn't my intention. You can lock it up if you think it'll get too outta hand or cause trouble.

Cheers.

[false_Aest]

We tried something similar at work a few years ago.

It didn't end well but no one was hurt.

It won't end well and I can't guarantee that you won't get hurt.

[FlashUNC]

While those stretch into the shape you want and you've got some time to kill, look up good oral and orthopedic surgeons in your area.

[azrider]

Also, the way you have it pictured...the tops might bend at the clamp area. If you want the flare, you should make sure it only bends at the first bend of the bars.



They came out decent.....very subtle flare compare to most flared bars that require you to turn your shifters horizontal


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191211/0458012b55d7c9a5ef7594179604ff8d.jpg


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[mtechnica]

What you’re doing is extremely dangerous and you need to throw the bars in the trash. Those are aluminum and you’ve likely compromised the integrity of the handlebars by bending them like that. You can disregard me if you want but while I’m not an expert on metallurgy, I’m a mechanical engineer and I’m a little bit familiar with materials and you couldn’t pay me to ride with those handlebars. I’m sorry to break the bad news to you but for your own safety you need to get rid of those handlebars.

[mulp]

I think the general consensus is that bike alloys and aluminum is heat treated so that it becomes harder at the expense of being less malleable. I think this would really depend on what type of alloy your bars are made of. Did you check for any possible cracks where the are bent outwards?

For starters I would stress test the bars before using them on the road, i.e., stress testing them with at least your body weight, more if possible.

[mtechnica]

If this isn’t a troll post I’m going to be in Tempe for work next week. I’ll give you a set of handlebars if you promise to not even attempt to ride with the ones you bent. I’m completely serious.

[yinzerniner]

What could possibly go wrong???

(Ron Howard voice...)
A lot could possibly go wrong.

(azrider in the ER)
https://media.giphy.com/media/A0FGCbbooHe1y/giphy.gif

[NHAero]

If you are looking for a more subtle flair, and bars that aren't a yard wide, Whisky makes bars with 6 degree and 12 degree flairs. I use the 6 degree ones on my pure road bike (Firefly) and the 12 degree ones on my drop bar 26er. They are short reach and drop too.

[zmudshark]

Doug, you are way too pretty to risk riding with those bars.

Aluminum doesn't bend well, even if it looks okay.

[avalonracing]

Yes, this is much too risky. Bend them back.

/s x100

[CMiller]

Just in case all the other responses weren't clear - please please please don't ride these!

No easy way to tell where they would break because the way they were bent, but they will break, and you will be in danger, and you may seriously hurt yourself. Start a new thread and we can recommend flared bars and let this post be buried haha

[Hindmost]

If the bars were heat treated after bering formed you should not try and set them into a different position. :eek:

Aluminum handlebars are thinner and way harder than they used to be. Try tapping on the handlebar and then do it to an old Cinelli and see what the difference in tone is. I can't imagine cold setting a modern handlebar being anything other than a disaster

[Dave]

Actually the amount of bend does not look that severe to me. I've bent a fair amount of 6061-T6 bar stock. It's not a problem if the bend radius is fairly large and/or the bend angle is not too large. Bend a sharp 90 and it may break while bending.

The lower portion of the bar shouldn't be taking much of a load. The area near the stem is where the most strength is needed.

[John H.]

Isn't this the same way that Charlie Cunningham made dirt drops?
I am pretty sure that he bent Cinelli bars.

[azrider]

Doug, you are way too pretty to risk riding with those bars.

John....this is funniest thing I'll read all day.

Bend them back.

I take that back......THIS is the funniest thing i'll read all day :p:p:p

Actually the amount of bend does not look that severe to me. I've bent a fair amount of 6061-T6 bar stock. It's not a problem if the bend radius is fairly large and/or the bend angle is not too large. Bend a sharp 90 and it may break while bending.

The lower portion of the bar shouldn't be taking much of a load. The area near the stem is where the most strength is needed.

FINALLY

https://media.giphy.com/media/3o7TKF1fSIs1R19B8k/giphy.gif

[DeBike]

I will not say stupid. How about foolish and senseless?

[wildboar]

Now miniaturize it to spread rear stays.

[Veloo]

Well that's a bit anticlimactic.
Not wishing you harm, but I was expecting something more along the lines of 3 degrees on one side and 27 degrees on the other.

They came out decent.....very subtle flare compare to most flared bars that require you to turn your shifters horizontal


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191211/0458012b55d7c9a5ef7594179604ff8d.jpg


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[fogrider]

The question is were they heat treated? ND what's the weight of the bars. All metals have a elastic point, once you cold set them it means you have gone past that point. Typically, it's fine...but with bike parts that are superlight and heat treated, it's not meant to be bent. For the cost of new bars, I wouldn't risk the cost of medical bills...and that's the up side.

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[zmudshark]

I just cut and tossed some nice aluminum bars because they had a deep gouge in them.

[BobO]

Do we know what aluminum alloy this is?

Do we know what the heat treat protocol, if any was used?

Is the bend localized at a point or is it distributed over a length of the bars?

Is there any kinking, twisting or thinning after the bends?

Do we know what safety factor the manufacturer built in?

The concerns about compromising the integrity of the bars aren't unfounded. It is, however, plausible to safely bend the bars under specific circumstances of the right materials and techniques. I tend to be conservative with unknown materials, particularly when they have a finish on them. The finish makes it difficult to inspect for post work defects.

It's also difficult with the shape of the bars to determine where the new deformations occurred, so it's tough to know where the modifications are causing stresses.

If possible, remove the finish, acid etch the bars and inspect for cracking and defects under a magnifying glass. Cracks turn dark with the acid. Cracks are stress risers, meaning they concentrate forces to that location, which will fail at some point. Especially with aluminum.

You might be fine as is, some alloys of aluminum can be cold formed. Some are tricky especially after heat treat. Like I noted, personally, I'm conservative with unknown materials, particularly when they are in mission critical components.

One final note, proper technique for that bend would most likely involve a mandrel and not a bottle jack.

[BRad704]

If you are looking for a more subtle flair, and bars that aren't a yard wide, Whisky makes bars with 6 degree and 12 degree flairs. I use the 6 degree ones on my pure road bike (Firefly) and the 12 degree ones on my drop bar 26er. They are short reach and drop too.



Most or maybe all 3t bars have a slight flare as well.


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[Dave]

Aluminum bars would always be bent in the annealed state and then heat treated. It is possible to anneal a small area, using a propane torch, but no practcal way to return the area to its hardened state. I see that 7000 series is used for some of the best bars. 7000 series will have the highest strength. I also see some made from 2014.

I've experimented with annealing 6061-T6 aluminum, but it requires heating the metal to around 700 degrees. You can buy heat indicator sticks that melt at certain temperature ranges to help tell when that temperature has been reached.

Aluminum that hasn't been heat treated bends quite easily. Some alloys, like 3003, can only be hardened by cold working. I used half hard 3003- H14 for making interior upholstery panels for my hot rod. A couple of small pieces needed to have large radius bends. Annealing the bend area with a propane torch made them really easy to bend. It only requires around 400 degrees to anneal 3003.

[mulp]

Just throw them away, pleeaaassseee

[prototoast]

Bookmarking this thread for the next time a discussion comes up where someone argues that aluminum handlebars are better than carbon handlebars because carbon handlebars might fail catastrophically after a crash, but aluminum handlebars will just bend.

[Rusty Luggs]

I vote "NO" to genius, "Yes" to potentially stupid (like most ideas after a couple of beers....)

[charliedid]

As the kids like to say... You do you.

[John H.]

I just saw that Shimano has all of their flared bars in stock.
Multiple options from little flare to 20 degrees.
The alloy models are inexpensive.
Try that instead of ricking injury on a self bent bar-

[tomato coupe]

There are a certain number of bike accidents that happen every year. If the OP is willing to step up and take a bullet, that's one less accident for the rest of us. We should applaud his selflessness.

[Hank Scorpio]

I have a pair of flared Zipp bars that came stock on my Chebacco that you can have if you cover shipping and post a picture of your bars sawed in half. The are 42 and ergo drop with a flat top section. LMKBYCAYTO


Let me know before you crash all your teeth out.

[Hank Scorpio]

Delete duplicate

[XXtwindad]

There are a certain number of bike accidents that happen every year. If the OP is willing to step up and take a bullet, that's one less accident for the rest of us. We should applaud his selflessness.

This is a dark sentiment. Overstepping the line...

[GOTHBROOKS]

Isn't this the same way that Charlie Cunningham made dirt drops?
I am pretty sure that he bent Cinelli bars.
i think he bent his with the help of a tree which is why i bent my old cinelli campione bars the same way. i didnt die. but they were uncomfortable so thats why i stopped using them.

[cash05458]

I say give it a shot...ride 'em...

[steamer]

The OP's avatar is fitting.

[DWColiins]

I used to work R&d/Engineering for a components manufacturer. You've introduced internal stresses on the bars that, without heat treatment, will shorted the lifespan of them an unknown amount. Everything fatigues, everything breaks. It's just a matter of use, and time.

[FlashUNC]

I used to work R&d/Engineering for a components manufacturer. You've introduced internal stresses on the bars that, without heat treatment, will shorted the lifespan of them an unknown amount. Everything fatigues, everything breaks. It's just a matter of use, and time.

Well good thing these aren't bars on a gravel bike that'll take a pounding and vibration from rough roads.

Oh wait...

[oldpotatoe]

yes, this is much too risky. bend them back.

/s x100

ha!!!

[tomato coupe]

This is a dark sentiment. Overstepping the line...

To quote another forum member ... PUH LEEZE!!

[XXtwindad]

To quote another forum member ... PUH LEEZE!!

Well, I'll walk the last portion of my post back. Seems a little callous, but it was a literate way to express your views on the OP's invention.

So, literate, in fact, that it reminded me of Shirley Jackson's "The Lottery." Which is definitely dark.

[GOTHBROOKS]

how is a parallel drawn from a handlebar to a book about (spoiler alert) castigating and stoning someone to death?

[tomato coupe]

how is a parallel drawn from a handlebar to a book about (spoiler alert) castigating and stoning someone to death?

I think Shirley Jackson would have been honored by having her most famous literary work compared to a bicycling forum post.

[XXtwindad]

There are a certain number of bike accidents that happen every year. If the OP is willing to step up and take a bullet, that's one less accident for the rest of us. We should applaud his selflessness.

This doesn't seem like the "Lottery" to you? Cycling as a form of roulette? And being thankful that someone has volunteered to have the little ball land on their number? Seems like a reasonable association to me...

PS I think I did mention that it was the most eloquent affirmation to the latter portion of the OP's question.

[BobbyJones]

I'm waiting for the JRA post....

[avalonracing]

I'm waiting for the JRA post....
:beer:

[happycampyer]

Aluminum bars would always be bent in the annealed state and then heat treated. It is possible to anneal a small area, using a propane torch, but no practcal way to return the area to its hardened state. I see that 7000 series is used for some of the best bars. 7000 series will have the highest strength. I also see some made from 2014.

I've experimented with annealing 6061-T6 aluminum, but it requires heating the metal to around 700 degrees. You can buy heat indicator sticks that melt at certain temperature ranges to help tell when that temperature has been reached.

Aluminum that hasn't been heat treated bends quite easily. Some alloys, like 3003, can only be hardened by cold working. I used half hard 3003- H14 for making interior upholstery panels for my hot rod. A couple of small pieces needed to have large radius bends. Annealing the bend area with a propane torch made them really easy to bend. It only requires around 400 degrees to anneal 3003.
If the OP put the bars in the oven and set the oven to “clean,” that should do the trick. How long do they need to be heat treated for?

[BobO]

Hardening is the hard part;

http://www.jmpforming.com/blog/aluminum-heat-treating/quenching-and-aging-aluminum-6061.html

Also, you heat treat at 1000° it melts at 1100° and it's very thin material. This is going to be very, very tricky to get right without the professional grade tools.

[rain dogs]

I haven't read all the responses but since you asked straight up.....straight up reply.

stupid.

[Dave]

If the OP put the bars in the oven and set the oven to “clean,” that should do the trick. How long do they need to be heat treated for?

That's the temp to anneal the material. Getting them back to a T6 condition is another matter. Annealed bars would be worthless.

[oldpotatoe]

Yer getting a giggle out of these 58 posts so far, aren't you?

I am...people are SO serious...:eek:

[YesNdeed]

If it were me trying to make something like this work, I would bench vise the bend in front of the hoods area, and bend only the section of drops I want flared. Maybe using metal pipe with an ID slightly larger than the bar ends.

But if it were me, um, I would buy new handlebars.

The inaccurate bending alone would drive me nuts, and it's very unsafe.

[Spoker]

I was always told aluminum you can bend once; steel more times.
That first bend is already used up.