Kickr Original Help Needed

[jrflanders]

Ok so I have a Kickr original and have had a bunch of problems with it (I bought it here, used, much to my chagrin). I put this here in case someone has experience fixing these f'ing things or someone has a similar problem. Because lets face it: Wahoo tech support is pretty useless.

Recently it stopped showing speed and power but it connected fine. I cleaned the optical sensor (https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001728624) and it now shows speed. I ran a spindown and then tried it out; it has more problems...

Basically, the resistance is very high, and as a result the speed on a flat is low (13 mph) and the watts are very high (and spiky - it goes from 0 to 500 to 0 to 492 to 0, etc...). I borrowed a new Kickr from my neighbor and the difference was staggering - the resistance was noticeably less on the same gear and the speed and power readings were smooth and what you would expect - speeds in the high 20s and watts in the 100s on flats.

So it feels as if something is over tight? Any ideas?

[bigbill]

On their more recent KICKR models, Wahoo had an ungrounded power supply issue that would mess up the circuit card causing a loss of power and speed, everything else would work. The rider didn't move. It required a replacement (under warranty) of the entire unit.

I was underwhelmed with my 2018 KICKR after the initial pulley issues, then the circuit card issue, and the replacement unit had the pulley issues.

[makoti]

If you haven't, call them. Can be tough to get through to sometimes, but I sent mine back, got it refurbed basically, and had it back in a week. I was very happy with the results

[mt2u77]

Have you updated to the latest firmware? After Gen 2 came out, I updated mine and suddenly it worked much better.

[jrflanders]

I am trying to work with their customer service, but they are slow to respond and seem to think that it is all a bluetooth problem.

Circuit card seems like it could be bad. Will suggest. Thank you.

Update:

They eventually replied. Here's what they had to say:

"I am sorry you're experiencing this issue with your trainer. Based on your description, you'll need to perform a factory spindown. This process is a bit different than the standard spindown process, so be sure to follow the steps below:

Android:

Open the Wahoo Utility app for Android
Connect to KICKR (allow 10-30 seconds to fully connect)
Tap KICKR icon 10 times, quickly, to receive a popup window
Select Perform Advanced Spindown
Follow the steps on-screen to complete the factory spindown*

iOS:

Open the iOS Wahoo Fitness App and navigate to the Sensors section
Connect to KICKR from the sensors screen and save, selecting your preferred profiles
Return to home page to select a KICKR-enabled profile and start a workout
Tap the sensor icon in the upper left, then the wrench & hammer icon next to the KICKR
Tap the instructions (above "Perform Spindown") five times - new factory spindown instructions will appear below
Tap Perform Factory Spindown (may require scrolling down on smaller screens) and follow the steps on-screen to complete the factory spindown*

Going forward, you will only need to complete a basic spin down roughly every 2 weeks or when the trainer is moved.

*If the resistance is too high to pedal during the warm up period, please skip this part and wait until the spindown process begins. The app will have you perform 2 spindowns in a row. This process should release the brake and the resistance will return to normal. Once complete, perform a second advanced spindown in full (including the warm up period) to ensure the best power accuracy on your KICKR (additional factory spindowns should only be completed as directed by a Wahoo agent). Again, going forward, you will only need to complete a basic spin down roughly every 2 weeks or when the trainer is moved.

Please let us know if you need further assistance.​"

[jrflanders]

Have you updated to the latest firmware? After Gen 2 came out, I updated mine and suddenly it worked much better.

Yes I have the latest version on there.

[bigbill]

Even my new KICKR wasn't that great with Bluetooth. I ended up using an ANT dongle on a USB extension cord and set it next to the trainer.

[kppolich]

Ok so I have a Kickr original and have had a bunch of problems with it (I bought it here, used, much to my chagrin). I put this here in case someone has experience fixing these f'ing things or someone has a similar problem. Because lets face it: Wahoo tech support is pretty useless.

Recently it stopped showing speed and power but it connected fine. I cleaned the optical sensor (https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001728624) and it now shows speed. I ran a spindown and then tried it out; it has more problems...

Basically, the resistance is very high, and as a result the speed on a flat is low (13 mph) and the watts are very high (and spiky - it goes from 0 to 500 to 0 to 492 to 0, etc...). I borrowed a new Kickr from my neighbor and the difference was staggering - the resistance was noticeably less on the same gear and the speed and power readings were smooth and what you would expect - speeds in the high 20s and watts in the 100s on flats.

So it feels as if something is over tight? Any ideas?


What device is controlling your kickr? I had some user error issues with mine on startup when the connection was being fought over by a few applications. At one point, I had TrainerRoad on my computer trying to connect via bluetooth, and a CABLE ANT+ BLE bridge going to my phone, also zwift app installed on my appleTV that previously had the kickr attached to it.

Overall, i made sure the device that I wanted to read the kickr was the only one connected and everything was good.

To troubleshoot your issue, I would go through these steps.
1. Unplug kickr for 60 seconds
2. Open devices and turn off bluetooth and forget the kickr sensor from your Bluetooth menus.
3. Uninstall Wahoo app on device
4. Reinstall Wahoo App latest version
5. Plug in kickr and add it to wahoo via bluetooth
6. Spindown test with kickr connected to wahoo app only.

[gavingould]

i would check that the nut holding the freehub body/axle on isn't overly tight - i think there is a torque spec for it?

[DrewK]

Mine did something really similar to that. It was another trainer controller nearby that was trying to take over the Kickr via ANT+. I was running the Kickr with Bluetooth, but the other gadget running another trainer via ANT+ was kicking things all out of whack. We unplugged the other trainer and computer, and voila, everything worked again.

So if you have another “thing” nearby that is running ANT+ smart trainer protocol, try turning that off.

[kppolich]

i would check that the nut holding the freehub body/axle on isn't overly tight - i think there is a torque spec for it?

yep, 6 newton meters.

[makoti]

Mine did something really similar to that. It was another trainer controller nearby that was trying to take over the Kickr via ANT+. I was running the Kickr with Bluetooth, but the other gadget running another trainer via ANT+ was kicking things all out of whack. We unplugged the other trainer and computer, and voila, everything worked again.

So if you have another “thing” nearby that is running ANT+ smart trainer protocol, try turning that off.

I don't know if this is the issue, but yes, mine has issues if Zwift is running AND my phone/tablet is running the Wahoo app. One or the other, never both. Turn off Zwift, do the spin down, turn off the app, start Zwift. Otherwise, it gets very flaky.

[glepore]

Agreed that you can only run one thing communicating with the trainer. Mine is rock solid on ant.

What are you using to control the kickr? What else is on?

My experience with Wahoo tech support has been pretty good, if you're specific about what you've already tried and what the setup is.

[jrflanders]

Well it looks like the plastic cover on the flywheel (the one with the belt on it) has separated from the flywheel itself, which is metal, but only in the middle as it is screwed in at the edges. As a result, the optical disk (the black and white plastic ring) is getting scored by the sensor housing which is affecting the performance. My options are to disassemble and glue the cover back on, and hope nothing else is f’ed up or replace it with a refurbished unit for $250. Given how much time I already have into this thing I’m going to replace. Anyway I think this is a useful thread and appreciate the thoughtful replies. Hopefully some other folks see this and it saves them some time.

[R3awak3n]

Well it looks like the plastic cover on the flywheel (the one with the belt on it) has separated from the flywheel itself, which is metal, but only in the middle as it is screwed in at the edges. As a result, the optical disk (the black and white plastic ring) is getting scored by the sensor housing which is affecting the performance. My options are to disassemble and glue the cover back on, and hope nothing else is f’ed up or replace it with a refurbished unit for $250. Given how much time I already have into this thing I’m going to replace. Anyway I think this is a useful thread and appreciate the thoughtful replies. Hopefully some other folks see this and it saves them some time.

that is actually nice of them to let you get a refurb for $250. A lot of times, if you did not buy from them you are SOL.

[makoti]

that is actually nice of them to let you get a refurb for $250. A lot of times, if you did not buy from them you are SOL.

And $250 on a refub is a hell of a deal. I bought mine refurbed. $900.

[cash05458]

yeah, considering the original (I have the same one) came out in '14...250 is a great price...good on wahoo for that.

[jrflanders]

that is actually nice of them to let you get a refurb for $250. A lot of times, if you did not buy from them you are SOL.

Agreed - I have to say that eventually the customer service improved after the first few interactions. I do have to pay shipping on one end, so it will be more than $250, but I need to get the situation resolved soon.

[purplecu22]

I remember watching in a youtube vid. The early ones are very sensitive to light. Is it in a bright room? or maybe something is hitting your kickr where the optical disc is? worth taking a look at.

from zwift forum


A Horvai
Jan '18
Been fighting this/these (see below) problems for at least a year now on a Gen2 KICKR. Though I haven’t solved my problems, I have been posting the info below whenever I read similar posts in case it helps someone else.

After hours of troubleshooting, using various aps to read/control the KICKR, reading power on-the-bike powermeters instead of the KICKR, here is where things stand, by no means are these the final answers and they may be unique to my KICKR. I have replaced the PC board once under warranty but Wahoo is sure my problem is signal interference, which, if you read the details, is highly unlikely.



The KICKR is sensitive to light shining onto the photosensor. The photosensor is what determines flywheel speed and, consequently, watts so it’s important not to give it any interference. A garage door opening during a bright sunny day will produce this problem fairly reliably, though not universally. Positioning your setup so the flywheel is not bathed in sunlight intermittently should help. Others have put a piece of tape on the plastic shield covering the electronics and folded it in such a way that it covers the flywheel slightly.

The KICKR has a thermosensor that through some algorithm alters the wattage it reports to compensate for temperature. Once your flywheel is up to speed, mostof those watts you’re generating go to heat. If you do a spindown using the Wahoo iphone Ap, you can see the internal temperature.

a) My KICKR drifts to report higher watts than an external SRM after about an hour of FTP-ish level pedaling. It’s most noticeable with longer intervals than short VO2/anaerobic ones. The problem seems to also be getting more common.

b) Mine also appears to reach a “braking point” when resistance just goes through the floor, and any pedaling produces unbelievably high watts. This is similar to that described in the post above. Even trying to hold just 100W, the KICKR will read close to 200W (over either ANT+ on a PC running TrainerRoad or BT on an iphone running TrainerRoad or the Wahoo Ap) If I do a spindown during one of these “braking point” events, I’ll get crazy temperature readings, like -350 Farenheit! Eventually, presumably as the unit cools, resistance will return back to relatively normal levels.



My conclusions are that the light sensitivity can be dealt with with some judicious positioning of the KICKR. The temperature problem may be a design flaw, or just a bad unit in my case. I will try a dedicated fan on the KICKR and am still in touch with Wahoo customer support since the problem doesn’t seem to affect all users.