OT: watch recommendation

[duff_duffy]

I know from some prior threads we have some watch experts here. I don’t currently wear watch but am thinking if this existed would like it:
Analog/mechanical watch with basic stopwatch ability. Small, thin face, small band (very thin wrists and hate large watches). metal, silver or titanium looking band. Nothing fancy (ie no diamonds or anything) but needs to be durable and would look good in professional setting and work well if happened to leave on while exercising. Waterproof, new or used does not matter. Prefer rare, mid to high quality.. Any suggestions?

[Ken Robb]

stopwatch function may add more thickness than you want.

[wallymann]

what's your budget? $250? $500? $1000? $2500? $5000? more?


....Prefer rare, mid to high quality....

[wc1934]

Not sure if this would be of any interest to you, but you can get a good sense of what's out there. Click on buy a watch and you can filter by case diameter (36-37-38 for smaller wrists), brand, price etc. Have fun browsing.

https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/category/all-articles/

[dsimon]

My two cents in looking for a grown up watch I ended up with a Ball Automatic and looking at a lot of watches I would say a Nice Grand Seiko would fit your bill

[wallymann]

dp

[Dekonick]

this should be interesting...

[joosttx]

this should be interesting...



I would highly recommend a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref# 5990/1A. 40.5mm case is relatively small, especially for a chronograph. Also it is really good for folks who travel in different time zones.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48778572131_d513b2fd5d_z.jpg

[gbcoupe]

That Patek Philippe equates a crap-ton of 2nd hand (bad pun here), hand built frames!
It better be a damn good watch!

[DrSpoke]

Perhaps something like this:
https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/hamilton-collection/american-classic/h38416711-intra-matic-auto-chrono.html
Or this:
https://shop.hamiltonwatch.com/hamilton-collection/american-classic/h38416541-intra-matic-auto-chrono.html

[buddybikes]

Kind of nice if you want US made: https://www.rgmwatches.com/watches#/455/

[Dino Suegiù]

Damasko DCxx ("C" = Chronograph; the "xx" will differ depending on specifications/other complications) on a Damasko bracelet (the most beautiful bracelet in the world imo).

Extremely well-built; extremely durable; excellent value (definitely not chi-chi overpriced); relatively uncommon; very versatile; customizable (somewhat) bezels and seconds hand colors; etc.

Damasko Watches USA (https://www.watchmann.com/damaskowatches.php)

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1117/6708/products/Damasko-Watch-dc-57-metallband_large.jpg?v=1505740346

https://www.watchmann.com/images/damasko/dc66.jpg

https://www.watchmann.com/prodimages/zoom/DC80BG.jpg

[joosttx]

These are really goodlooking

Damasko DCxx ("C" = Chronograph; the "xx" will differ depending on specifications/other complications) on a Damasko bracelet (the most beautiful bracelet in the world imo).

Extremely well-built; extremely durable; excellent value (definitely not chi-chi overpriced); relatively uncommon; very versatile; customizable (somewhat) bezels and seconds hand colors; etc.

Damasko Watches USA (https://www.watchmann.com/damaskowatches.php)

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1117/6708/products/Damasko-Watch-dc-57-metallband_large.jpg?v=1505740346

https://www.watchmann.com/images/damasko/dc66.jpg

https://www.watchmann.com/prodimages/zoom/DC80BG.jpg

[Dino Suegiù]

These are really goodlooking

Indeed. Plus, many iterations to suit a variety of needs and tastes, and the USA (if that is where the op is located) primary AD (Watchmann, linked above) is top-notch.

There are obviously many good chronographs, but the vast majority (mid-budget, per op request) will all have Valjoux 7750 movements, so no discernible differences there between brands. Therefore: design and complications.

I can only recommend watches I have direct experience with and for the op's criteria Damasko (chronographs or not) are definitely worth a long, serious look.

EDIT:
OP: there will be many suggestions/threads on Watchuseek (WUS) Forum.
The search function there is wonky, be fore-warned, so it is often easier, especially if one is new there/unfamiliar, to just search for something like "damasko [or whatever brand] chronograph watchuseek forum" on Google, etc and just bypass the very finicky WUS search engine entirely.

[Dekonick]

That Patek Philippe equates a crap-ton of 2nd hand (bad pun here), hand built frames!
It better be a damn good watch!

Ohhh... A Patek is special. This is what I mean by understated. Walk in the room, no one knows. It just looks like a nice watch... BUT the connoiseur will need nothing more than a glance to recognize the craftsmanship... and know. The hours to make a Patek far exceed the hours to make a crap ton of hand built frames... a true gem.

I want one.

Now, if you NEED the 'bling' in a Patek, you can also have Bling... be prepared to pay... https://nextshark.com/this-2-6-million-patek-philippe-watch-took-100000-hours-to-make/

[verbs4us]

I feel your pain. They just don't seem to make thin, small-faced watches anymore-- "a style thing" one sales guy told me. People don't want watches to tell time anymore; they want them to make a statement about how important they are. Here is my old Eddie Bauer watch (34-mm bezel) and the smallest Hamilton I could find (38 mm). 4 mm doesn't sound like much, but on my wrist the new one feels like a dinner plate. I got used to it, but I don't like it. Notice the old watch is also about 1 mm thinner. The Bauer watch gave up the ghost, so I had no choice, and the modern Bauer watches are as big, or bigger, than the Hamilton. The way to go might be to look at women's sport watches. They tend to start at smaller sizes. I hate chunky metal bands, so I have a small collection of these woven nylon bands--throw them in the wash and you're all set.

[FlashUNC]

All metal G-Shock.

[uber]

A Lange and Sohn Datograph is my favorite chrono. At a lower price point IWC pilot style chronos are beautiful and available with straps or bracelets. Sinn makes similar style watches.

[Dino Suegiù]

Ohhh... A Patek is special. This is what I mean by understated. Walk in the room, no one knows. It just looks like a nice watch... BUT the connoiseur will need nothing more than a glance to recognize the craftsmanship... and know. The hours to make a Patek far exceed the hours to make a crap ton of hand built frames... a true gem.
Sure, but even that gorgeous PP Nautilus joostx posted is a MSRP US$50,000+, even +++, watch, IF one can find it.... Look at the prices for that watch on Chrono24 (not always the best indicator but nonetheless) now.

Edit: Lang und Söhne, mentioned above, etc., also $$$$$.

Those are very, very, very high-lux watches, not "mid to high quality" as the op stated.

IWC are an excellent, more realistic (even if still fairly expensive) suggestion.

Damaskos, similar Sinns, etc brands, all top-quality, with excellent price/value ratios, are ~$3,000, which includes the not inexpensive ($700 alone for Damasko) bracelet.

A very thin, small dial (anything less than 40mm) chronograph is going to be very difficult to find; vintage will provide more options but also more risks.

Really, the op first needs to provide more detail regarding budget, size, aesthetics, other complications (ie day, date, GMT, etc), for suggestions to be more on-point and helpful.

[Dino Suegiù]

New, slightly less expensive (but also less sturdy) than Damasko, very good value, nicely designed chronographs (also German), also lots of variety, dressier than Damasko, are Stowa:
Stowa Chronographs (https://www.stowa.de/en/Chronographen/).

But, all 41mm diameter, more or less standard for Valjoux 7750 cases.

https://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/default/pix/a/v/Chrono1938_Bronze_poliert_front_2600.jpg

https://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/default/pix/a/v/Marine_Chrono_poliert_front_2600-neu.jpg

https://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/default/pix/a/v/Chrono_poliert_1938_schwarz_front_2600.jpg

https://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/default/pix/a/v/fliegeruhr_chroograph-stowa.2.jpg

[duff_duffy]

Thanks for the great tips! Going to research a few of the leads given. I’m going to enjoy the search.

[AngryScientist]

Thanks for the great tips! Going to research a few of the leads given. I’m going to enjoy the search.

the first thing you need to do is define a budget.

[Steve in SLO]

Truthfully, if you want to small and thin you are either going to have to go with a vintage chronograph, re-edition or a quartz-based model. There are tons of 34–37 mm cased vintage chronos on eBay that go anywhere from $500 to several thousand dollars. For best quality, look for Valjoux 22 or 23 in a 2 register movement, and big brother 71 or 72 For a 3 register movement.
A number of manufacturers are releasing heritage edition watches. One of my favorite of the these is the Heuer Carrera, which in the first generation had a 35 mm, thin case. It is manual, and requires winding.
Alternately, one of my favorite modern small chronographs is a Mecaquartz Master Chronograph, which is 34 mm in size and quite thin due to its quartz movement. Available in black or white dials and can be found between $2500 and $3500 in great shape.
Lots of choices. In the end, choose the one that smiles back at you when you look at it.

[NYCfixie]

There have been some very funny and unrealistic options offered. As a few serious people have written when offering you helpful advice, define a budget first otherwise this is an exercise in futility.

Asking for a stopwatch (i.e. Chronograph) will make the watch larger and thicker even if you consider vintage. You might also want to consider the service costs which can get very very expensive for vintage but less so with a new watch that comes with a warranty and often does not need service for 5-7 years.


Under $500 = Seiko Solar, Timex, and the vast majority of "fashion" watches (which are all crap).

$500 - $2,000 = Seiko, Sinn, Damasko, maybe Hamilton, maybe Tag Heuer, maybe Oris

Over $2,000 = too many options to list.

[RFC]

There have been some very funny and unrealistic options offered. As a few serious people have written when offering you helpful advice, define a budget first otherwise this is an exercise in futility.

Asking for a stopwatch (i.e. Chronograph) will make the watch larger and thicker even if you consider vintage. You might also want to consider the service costs which can get very very expensive for vintage but less so with a new watch that comes with a warranty and often does not need service for 5-7 years.


Under $500 = Seiko Solar, Timex, and the vast majority of "fashion" watches (which are all crap).

$500 - $2,000 = Seiko, Sinn, Damasko, maybe Hamilton, maybe Tag Heuer, maybe Oris

Over $2,000 = too many options to list.

I've been through them all. They come and go like bikes.

Actually, the Seiko solar chronograph divers are really very nice and, in design and finish, very similar to the Sinn. I know. I've had both.

https://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/official-solar-chronograph-diver-thread-688319.html

[merckxman]

Hanhart flies under the radar, very nice watches, founded in 1882. Extra points because Steve McQueen wore one? I have an older anniversary model as pictured, the current version is the Pioneer Mk II and available with stainless band. https://www.hanhart.com/en/collection/

[oldpotatoe]

Eh?

[NYCfixie]

I think it depends on the persons needs/wants/desires/budget and personality.

I'll admit that I'm the exception for both bikes and watches:


My first good watch, a Rolex Explorer II Polar dial 40mm I have owned and used as a daily wear for more than 25 years.
I own a Seven Axiom SL mid-reach brake with fender mounts bike (and two wheelesets). It has my first custom and has been my only bike for about 3 years now and I have no intention of replacing it. And, I do not need another bike.


I learned while experimenting with owning lots of bikes when in NJ (we had a house with a basement and room for them) and owning lots of watches the past few months (I purchased and sold more than 15 watches in the past 18 months valued from $95 to $9500) that I simply do not enjoy collecting/flipping/buying/selling/etc. as it is not in my nature.

I like to own 1 or 2 nice things, take really good care of them, and use the heck out of them until they wear out. But, that is my personality.


I've been through them all. They come and go like bikes.

[LGrider]

If you don't mind quartz check out the Oceanus OCW-T2600. Titanium, solar power, chronograph, world time, radio sync.

[jr59]

You guys are GREAT.

whoever said the OP needs to define budget is spot on.

For those of you that don’t know, the Patek is one of the finest watches made on this planet. I’m not much into ad slogans, but PP’s is spot on. You buy this for your children and grand children.

I would look at the Hamilton’s shown earlier.

Good luck in your search.

[Tickdoc]

Hanhart flies under the radar, very nice watches, founded in 1882. Extra points because Steve McQueen wore one? I have an older anniversary model as pictured, the current version is the Pioneer Mk II and available with stainless band. https://www.hanhart.com/en/collection/

Had one and it was a great watch. Hanhart, Stowa, GO...all good German brands.

[Tickdoc]

Just arrived Bargain Beater....Maratac SR 35.

Smallish new diver at 40mm. It reminds me of a Marathon SAR I owned a while back.

Hard to beat a mechanical Seiko driven Maratac Titanium with titanium bracelet (not installed yet) for $425.00. No date is always a winner in my book, and the lume is off the chart.

https://i.imgur.com/df7KaBTl.jpg

[PQJ]

It's not "rare" and not fully analog but checks all the OP's other boxes:

https://www.breitling.com/us-en/watches/professional/aerospace-evo/E79363101F1E1/

https://www.breitling.com/multimedia/images/configurator2011/images_dynamic/png/ipad_hd/_transparent/asset-version-aa5f1e276b/E7936310-F562-152E.png

[RFC]

https://live.staticflickr.com/7858/46566451265_23e2bf6b3d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dWVeBp)IMG_5740r (https://flic.kr/p/2dWVeBp) by Robert Copple (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161536771@N04/), on Flickr

[DRZRM]

Two pieces of advice. If you are not looking for one of the big recognizable brands (Omega, Rolex, Breitling, etc.), you may have a look at watchbuys, they carry a bunch of less well known German brands like Sinn, Dornbleuth, and Fortis. You can get a lot of watch for your money.

Here is their chronograph page, but it is worth poking around all over. I like the Sinns a lot, I have a 142 and a 956, but they are not known for being thin.

https://www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/Chronographs-c4.htm

Second, I think about the best looking newish brand in a slim chronograph is the Junghans Bill Max. You can get a quartz for well under a grand and an automatic just over. Never had one in hand, but I think they look great. Don't love their bracelets, but they do have one in stainless.

https://www.junghans-shop.com/media/image/05/a6/a9/041_4771-00_front.png

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71TDqPJfNIL._AC_UX679_.jpg

[Blue Jays]

"...You guys are GREAT..."
Congratulations on your 4500th post! :hello:

[Hank Scorpio]

Semi related. Does anyone know anything about this watch and what it might be worth? They are asking 18k with papers

[VTCaraco]

I've enjoyed the German brands (Oris and Stowa) as well as Hamilton and Maratac as less-expensive but nice mechanical watches.

I bought my son a beautiful Stowa at the end of his first semester at College and he loved wearing it in his more formal internship setting this past summer. It's a great-looking piece, in my mind. Hand-wind with a lovely display back.

Anyhow, that has me on the Stowa email-list and just received notice of some specials. Maybe they have something that would be of interest to you ~ https://www.stowa.de/en/special+offer+watches/.

[GonaSovereign]

A Lange and Sohn Datograph is my favorite chrono. At a lower price point IWC pilot style chronos are beautiful and available with straps or bracelets. Sinn makes similar style watches.

Ha ha. “At a lower price point” = almost everything else on the planet.

The Datograph is amazing, though.

[SlackMan]

Semi related. Does anyone know anything about this watch and what it might be worth? They are asking 18k with papers

That looks like a Patek Annual Calendar. I think $18K is a fair price. Keep in mind that regular service on it will take a long time and run about $1300.

[jr59]

That looks like a Patek Annual Calendar. I think $18K is a fair price. Keep in mind that regular service on it will take a long time and run about $1300.

Also made by one of the , errr....no, correction, made by the FINEST watch houses in the word. IMO, none come close.

[K3RRY]

Sporty route:
Submariner, GMT Master II, or Sea Dweller
Rolex

[merckxman]

This raises a good point, the cost of maintenance/repairs. A Rolex Submariner is $800 I've been told, a Rolex Datejust with gold $1,000.
That looks like a Patek Annual Calendar. I think $18K is a fair price. Keep in mind that regular service on it will take a long time and run about $1300.

[oldpotatoe]

This raises a good point, the cost of maintenance/repairs. A Rolex Submariner is $800 I've been told, a Rolex Datejust with gold $1,000.

Originally I had my GMTMaster overhhauled by Rolex NY every 5 years. A watch repair guy(who also did Rolex)said that was overkill..send it in if it has some issue, otherwise, leave it alone..last OVH was about 14 years ago....works fine.

[Bentley]

Semi related. Does anyone know anything about this watch and what it might be worth? They are asking 18k with papers

Only about the best watch made, maybe except ALange. Not sure of the value, but I am guessing at least 5-8K, maybe more.

Ray

[jr59]

Originally I had my GMTMaster overhhauled by Rolex NY every 5 years. A watch repair guy(who also did Rolex)said that was overkill..send it in if it has some issue, otherwise, leave it alone..last OVH was about 14 years ago....works fine.

Correct! Also, there is very little difference in the service of a subor a datejust.

And working on PP and Rolex is pretty simple. That’s some of the things that make them what they are

[NYCfixie]

The seals on vintage watches can be the most problematic and why every 5-7 years makes sense if you wear it in or near water on a regular basis. Also makes sense to have it pressure tested every year for the same reason.

The Rolex NYC Service Center mentioned to me several years ago that they now suggest every 10 years for service because "oils are so much better that if the watch is worn on a regular basis it should last that long between services". Not a surprise since they increased the warranty to 5 years on new watches.

I would never allow a third party watchmaker to work on a vintage Rolex especially knowing that most of them use non-OEM replacement parts. As I am sure you know, that can greatly devalue a vintage Rolex sports watch such as yours that is actually worth real money.

Originally I had my GMTMaster overhhauled by Rolex NY every 5 years. A watch repair guy(who also did Rolex)said that was overkill..send it in if it has some issue, otherwise, leave it alone..last OVH was about 14 years ago....works fine.

[wallymann]

home-brew: modest 38mm explorer-style case, sterile 369 dial with shiny accents, domed sapphire crystal over the top, and a bulletproof seiko nh35 beating under the hood,