Lube application question

[LegendRider]

Should chain lube go (1) where the plates meet OR (2) on the roller OR (3) both?

What technique do you use to minimize the accumulation of dirt and crud?

[rePhil]

I use "forum" lube a 4-1 ratio of mineral spirits and Mobil 1
On a clean chain I put a drop where the rollers meet the plates. Wiping off the excess. Then I wipe down after every ride and reapply about every 100 miles or so, not using too much. When it gets grungy looking I soak it in mineral spirits.
I would like to try a ultrasonic cleaner.

[Dan Le foot]

We use Prolink.
Pour it on. Freewheel for a few seconds and wipe.
We wipe the chain after every ride and re-lube about every 3 rides.
Chain stays clean. No gunk buildup.
Good luck.
Dan

[zap]

edit

I use "forum" lube a 4-1 ratio of mineral spirits and Mobil 1


Lately I've seen a number of interesting articles/threads about synthetic motor oil. Great stuff for a number of cycling applications and cheap.

Anyone catch the piece at VeloNews about keeping the factory lube on chains.

[FxdGrMind]

I've used Prolink for years now. The most important thing is to Clean and Lube "POST RIDE"!! That way you are ready to ride the next time.

Also, if you use Prolink lube it has a carrier (some technical term for it but this works) that holds the lube in suspension. When the carrier evaporates it leaves the lube behind and in all the nooks and crannies!! So if you put it on just before a ride you may not be getting all the lube you think you are because the lube carrier may fling off and take the lubricant with it.

So remember to be nice to your bike and clean it after your ride and lube the chain, that way you'll be ready to ride whenever the notion hits you!

Cheers and Happy Hollidays

[Dave]

I tried Pro Link back in 1999 after reading how wonderful it was. I talked to a sales rep back then and was told that the carrier solvent was mineral spirits. I did my own test, placing a small amount in an open dish to evaporate. After a couple of days what was left looked like plain old oil to me.

After that, I made my own, usually a 4/1 mix costing pennies per bottle instead of $8.

To answer the question about how to lube, first wipe the chain off by grasping the lower section of chain with a rag and pedaling backwards. Since I use cheap lube, I apply a generous amount from a drip bottle, holding a folded paper shop towel under each section, to catch the excess. I finish up with a dry-towel wiping. The lubing should be done after a ride to allow lots of time for solvent evaporation, otherwise, this lube will sling off and make a big mess.

There are two major wear points on a chain, the rollers (inside and out) and the pins and bushings formed into the inner sideplates. The later causes chain elongation. Most people only measure elongation (with a scale), but I've had chains with little elongation after 6000 miles, and totally worn out rollers. Roller wear is harder to measure. Some inside calipers may be able to reach between the roller, but I prefer a simple tool made from a 6mm hex wrench, ground down to about .070 inch in width. If this slips between the rollers, they are shot, IMO. Common chain checking tools usually make a mixed measurement of elongation and roller wear, so you really don't know how the chain is wearing.