Fast uneven chain wear

[stephenmarklay]

I am not even sure if I have a question here…

After maybe 100-200 mikes on my new single speed, the KMC chain is very tight in some spots and loose in other spots. I am going to order a new one right away.

I guess the fact that with a single speed I am standing more and applying a lot of pressure to the pedals…

Or I am just a hack :)

[pbarry]

Factory lube still on it? How's the chain line? Track or road chain? Not too tight?

[stephenmarklay]

Factory lube still on it? How's the chain line? Track or road chain? Not too tight?

Thank you Pbarry. It did not have much lube but I have sprayed it a few times with a light lube. Maybe the chain was too tight for sure. It was not super tight and it was quiet so I did not adjust it. The chain is a basic 1/8 KMC.

Chain line should be fine as it is a new raleigh purpose built SS.

[stephenmarklay]

Can any point to the strongest 1/8” single speed chain. I have seen the KMC K710 Kool Bicycle Chain and that states it is good for aggressive riding etc...

[jtbadge]

Is it tighter and looser through different parts of the pedal stroke, or do you actually measure different wear at different parts of the chain?

Sounds like your chain isn't bad/stretched, but that the chainring isn't really centered relative to the crank arms/spindle. Chain too tight would certainly amplify the sensation.

[stephenmarklay]

Is it tighter and looser through different parts of the pedal stroke, or do you actually measure different wear at different parts of the chain?

Sounds like your chain isn't bad/stretched, but that the chainring isn't really centered relative to the crank arms/spindle. Chain too tight would certainly amplify the sensation.

Thank you Jtbadege. This crossed my mind actually. I have not measured it but I do have a chain tool to do this…


Is this just a cheap freewheel perhaps?

[bart998]

Thank you Jtbadege. This crossed my mind actually. I have not measured it but I do have a chain tool to do this…


Is this just a cheap freewheel perhaps?

Probably... the freewheel, chain ring, or both. Chain wear usually takes a few thousand miles or more to become noticeable. Usually a little slack in the chain solves the issue.

[pbarry]

I was thinking fixed.. Yes, FW that’s not well machined might offer some explanation. Run the cranks backwards and see if tension changes during a revolution or two. Also, watch the spinning outer plate on the FW and check if it’s moving out of round. Side play there can affect things too.

[stephenmarklay]

Thank you guys. Yeah I was really surprised to see that kind of wear.

I will tinker with it tomorrow. This may be a good time to invest in a WI FW :banana:

[pbarry]

Are you seeing wear that’s visible? Using a chain checker? Feeling it?

[stephenmarklay]

Are you seeing wear that’s visible? Using a chain checker? Feeling it?

Sorry Pbarry, I should have said apparent wear. I will use a chain checker tomorrow’s but I am thinking the FW is the culprit.

[fmradio516]

Unless i misread something, your chainring is probably just not completely straight. Common on a lot of chainrings and it mostly only goes noticed on single speeds because theres no tensioner.

The way to do it is to flip the bike upside down(or work stand) and move the pedals while tapping the chain with a wrench. When the chain gets to its tightest, thats where you tighten the chain as much as you can before it starts binding. Then just adjust the non-drive side in the dropout until the wheel is center.

That should make the loose spots less loose, but if you want it perfect, you'll need a better ring.

[Davist]

Can be a lot of variance in the chainring connection and how they fit as well. This was fairly common in BMX, so we'd loosen the chainring bolts at the tight spot, then move (usually the 9AM/towards the front of the bike spot) with tapping, then re-tighten, this typically solved it. Freewheels may have a lot of variance as well, but can't do too much on that front.

[stephenmarklay]

Can be a lot of variance in the chainring connection and how they fit as well. This was fairly common in BMX, so we'd loosen the chainring bolts at the tight spot, then move (usually the 9AM/towards the front of the bike spot) with tapping, then re-tighten, this typically solved it. Freewheels may have a lot of variance as well, but can't do too much on that front.

Ok I kinda get what you are saying :) I got a little lost after loosening the the chainring bolt at the tight spot. :help:

[stephenmarklay]

Unless i misread something, your chainring is probably just not completely straight. Common on a lot of chainrings and it mostly only goes noticed on single speeds because theres no tensioner.

The way to do it is to flip the bike upside down(or work stand) and move the pedals while tapping the chain with a wrench. When the chain gets to its tightest, thats where you tighten the chain as much as you can before it starts binding. Then just adjust the non-drive side in the dropout until the wheel is center.

That should make the loose spots less loose, but if you want it perfect, you'll need a better ring.

I guess I am a really SS rookie as this is all new to me!

Thank you so much.

[oldpotatoe]

I am not even sure if I have a question here…

After maybe 100-200 mikes on my new single speed, the KMC chain is very tight in some spots and loose in other spots. I am going to order a new one right away.

I guess the fact that with a single speed I am standing more and applying a lot of pressure to the pedals…

Or I am just a hack :)

ALL SS setups and track for that matter, will have a 'tight spot' and a 'loose spot'..because cogs and chainrings aren't perfectly round and centered..Adjust the 'tight spot' not too tight(don't want to break a chain)..and hope the 'loose spot' isn't too loose.

[stephenmarklay]

ALL SS setups and track for that matter, will have a 'tight spot' and a 'loose spot'..because cogs and chainrings aren't perfectly round and centered..Adjust the 'tight spot' not too tight(don't want to break a chain)..and hope the 'loose spot' isn't too loose.

Thank you sir!

[fmradio516]

I guess I am a really SS rookie as this is all new to me!

Thank you so much.

No problem. And this wasnt obvious to me back when i started riding single speeds(though i lacked common sense in my early years), but maybe you know this already.

The most efficient way to tight the chain properly is to step it back. Let me elaborate on my previous statement a bit, to give you the full picture.

Start out with both nuts tight. Find tight spot in chainring. Loosen drive side track nut, place your thumb on the NON drive side chainstay right before it meets the BB shell. Use your thumb to push the tire toward the drive side chainstay, which will push the track nut further back in the dropout. Once the chain is at a tension you like, tighten the track nut. Then do the same thing but opposite on the other track nut; pushing the tire with your thumb from the drive side chainstay, until the tire is center between the stays.

Maybe this is obvious, maybe theres a better way to do it, but this is what we did back when track bikes ruled the world, a few years ago :)

We evolved to this method from loosening both nuts at the same time and trying to pull the wheel as far back in the dropouts and tightening them as quickly as we could.... yeah that didnt work very well :)

[stephenmarklay]

Thank you so much for the sage advice.