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View Full Version : Campy rear hub frame fit issue


Kingfisher
07-17-2019, 06:25 AM
I've had these Campy Record 11s wheels for a couple of years know built up by old potatoe laced to velocity rims. Absolutely bulletproof.
I've been riding them on a steel Zanc.
Yesterday I went to install them on recently acquired supersix evo with Di2 and rear wheel fits into dropout but it is way too tight....not enough of the axle nut sticking out to make it work correctly. Pics should explain situation.
Anyone tell me what is the allen head screws purpose on the non cassette side?
Thanks

Vientomas
07-17-2019, 06:30 AM
The black collar with silver allen bolt? Bearing adjustment I believe.

oldpotatoe
07-17-2019, 06:48 AM
I've had these Campy Record 11s wheels for a couple of years know built up by old potatoe laced to velocity rims. Absolutely bulletproof.
I've been riding them on a steel Zanc.
Yesterday I went to install them on recently acquired supersix evo with Di2 and rear wheel fits into dropout but it is way too tight....not enough of the axle nut sticking out to make it work correctly. Pics should explain situation.
Anyone tell me what is the allen head screws purpose on the non cassette side?
Thanks

Don't understand but that plate with wee allen is how you adjust these hubs..when on the bike, loosen a bit, turn plate a bit clockwise to tighten, tighten 2mm allen.

Is the smallest cog hitting the frame?

Dave
07-17-2019, 08:38 AM
Looks normal to me. The drive side nut protrudes beyond the lock ring, so it shouldn't rub the frame. If the small sprocket teeth actually rub the frame, that's a different matter.

AngryScientist
07-17-2019, 08:46 AM
Looks normal to me. The drive side nut protrudes beyond the lock ring, so it shouldn't rub the frame. If the small sprocket teeth actually rub the frame, that's a different matter.

i agree, where's the rub?

Mark McM
07-17-2019, 10:02 AM
As noted, the photos look like a normal 11spd hub/cassette. If the small sprocket or chain rubs on the drive side dropout, that would seem to be an issue with the dropout shape.

Also as noted, the allen head screw is to loosen/tighten the bearing pre-load adjustment collar.

FlashUNC
07-17-2019, 10:02 AM
Looks like every Campy hub I've seen of that generation.

Kingfisher
07-17-2019, 10:49 AM
Don't understand but that plate with wee allen is how you adjust these hubs..when on the bike, loosen a bit, turn plate a bit clockwise to tighten, tighten 2mm allen.

Is the smallest cog hitting the frame?

yep, smallest cog hitting the frame

zmudshark
07-17-2019, 12:00 PM
Make sure the cassette spacers are in correct order.

tuscanyswe
07-17-2019, 01:17 PM
Is it the chain or the cog thats "hitting" the frame?
Sometimes a 12t will clear (if chain) but an 11t not.

ultraman6970
07-17-2019, 02:00 PM
Not familiar with the bike because depends a lot of the manufacturing year, some have this 2 sided drop out, other ones have a single sided RD hanger.

But I do not see why you couldnt put a 1mm washer in there tho. Just put one at the other side too so the rear wheel gets center between the stays,

duff_duffy
07-17-2019, 02:15 PM
I’d try a different cassette and see if that fixes it (one with different tooth count on smallest co) as someone else mentioned. I had an American Classic hub do the same thing once - called up company and they new exactly what had happened - small washer was removed/lost sometime during maintenance but it still worked fine until I switched frames and it hit the frame. They sent new one and when put together correctly fixed it. The washer at end of axles and between frame worked for me as well but did not like losing any real estate on that part!

Mark McM
07-17-2019, 02:20 PM
I’d try a different cassette and see if that fixes it (one with different tooth count on smallest co) as someone else mentioned. I had an American Classic hub do the same thing once - called up company and they new exactly what had happened - small washer was removed/lost sometime during maintenance but it still worked fine until I switched frames and it hit the frame. They sent new one and when put together correctly fixed it. The washer at end of axles and between frame worked for me as well but did not like losing any real estate on that part!

There are two problems with putting a washer between the locknut and the dropout: The serrated teeth on the locknut can no longer grip the dropout; and it is easy to lose the washer when the wheel is removed.

Both of these issues can be fixed by placing the washer under the locknut. Loosen the small set screw, unscrew and remove the locknut, insert washer on the axle, re-install locknut with correct bearing preload, and re-tighten the set screw.

nesteel
07-17-2019, 10:42 PM
There are two problems with putting a washer between the locknut and the dropout: The serrated teeth on the locknut can no longer grip the dropout; and it is easy to lose the washer when the wheel is removed.

Both of these issues can be fixed by placing the washer under the locknut. Loosen the small set screw, unscrew and remove the locknut, insert washer on the axle, re-install locknut with correct bearing preload, and re-tighten the set screw.

And then re-dish the wheel.

oldpotatoe
07-18-2019, 06:55 AM
yep, smallest cog hitting the frame

It's really a frame issue, not rear hub issue. These hubs with even 12s cogsets work fine on many other frames.