BB Periodic Cleaning

[pcxmbfj]

When running enduring bottom brackets like Phil Wood or White Industries I think good practice is to remove periodically, clean, lube and reinstall.
Mine is the WI tapered and it's been awhile but it is now removed for cleaning.
Any suggestion of a proper cleaning process?

[smontanaro]

I wasn't aware that sealed bearing bottom brackets needed periodic servicce.

[oldpotatoe]

I wasn't aware that sealed bearing bottom brackets needed periodic service.

Not a bad idea to take out, clean threads and such, inspect all, and reinstall with new grease/antisieze/teflon tape, as required...not much fun trying to take seized BB cups outta a frame.

As for checking bearings..take chain off..rotate cranks while hand on seat tube..if it's gritty, crummy, you will feel it.

[tigoat]

I usually wipe and re-grease the BB bearings annually. Obviously the cranks will need to be removed to get to the bearings (stay intact on the frame). Remove the seals to expose the balls and then run a clean rag around the bearings, no need to use any liquid. Then re grease and re-install seals and the rest.

[pcxmbfj]

Thanks all for the suggestions. It was past time to do but working well now.

[verbs4us]

The best advice I got years ago, on drive train maintenance, was to NOT grease or lube the faces of the square taper that mate with the crank arms. This invites the crank arm to seat ever tighter on the BB spindle and might eventually, after repeated off/on re-torquing, lead to failure of the crank arm at the spindle connection. I never generated enough power to have this problem, but I knew riders who had cracks in their vintage 70s/80s Campy NR/SR crank arms, perhaps related to ever-tighter torquing of crank arm due to greased seating faces.

[Ronsonic]

The best advice I got years ago, on drive train maintenance, was to NOT grease or lube the faces of the square taper that mate with the crank arms. .

Don't grease the Tapers:
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/Ronsonic/tapir02.jpg


I know, it's old, but I still crack myself up with this.

[cribbit]

The best advice I got years ago, on drive train maintenance, was to NOT grease or lube the faces of the square taper that mate with the crank arms. This invites the crank arm to seat ever tighter on the BB spindle and might eventually, after repeated off/on re-torquing, lead to failure of the crank arm at the spindle connection. I never generated enough power to have this problem, but I knew riders who had cracks in their vintage 70s/80s Campy NR/SR crank arms, perhaps related to ever-tighter torquing of crank arm due to greased seating faces.

But if you have a ti spindle and a ti crank arm they'll weld themselves together without anything stopping it! :banana:

[Steve in SLO]

Fify:
don't grease the tapirs:
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/ronsonic/tapir02.jpg


i know, it's old, but i still crack myself up with this.

[ultraman6970]

Back in the day when only squared tapper and cotter was available I was doing BB cleaning like 3 or 4 times a year. But was a must after a bad rain day.

When shimano came with their squared tapped BBs with seals, i went all the way like twice a year maybe... those unist are fantastic against water, liked them better than campagnolo ones, so i was using shimano cranksets.

When campagnolo and shimano went sealed cartriges, no more cleaning, no need.

With UT now im greasing everytime the BB gets clicky, and im my case is pretty much twice a year.

[Mark McM]

The best advice I got years ago, on drive train maintenance, was to NOT grease or lube the faces of the square taper that mate with the crank arms. This invites the crank arm to seat ever tighter on the BB spindle and might eventually, after repeated off/on re-torquing, lead to failure of the crank arm at the spindle connection.

This advice came from someone who does not understand how a press-fit taper joint operates.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html