Mountain bike help - suggestions

[54ny77]

I started looking online at MTB's and am frankly overwhelmed. So much out there, and I have zero knowledge of mtb tech! Things like why single chainring cranks, enduro vs. cross country, full suspension vs. front shock, carbon vs. aluminum, gruppo types, frame size (I ride a road 54/55), 650B vs. 29'er, best type of rims for my use, and on and on. Not least of which, what kind of clothing does one wear riding offroad, for practicality as well as not looking like a total dork?

For reference, I'm not a complete mtb rookie--a seeming lifetime ago I had good amount of experience on hardtails and then had an mtb (Stumpjumper) with front suspension. I just have not kept up with anything mtb since the mid 90's, and literally haven't been on a mtb ride since around then as well.

Here's what my interests are: basic trail riding, mix of up and down, locale is Orange County, CA (coastal areas as well as venturing inland/Silverado/etc.). Not interested in bombing downhills but something that soaks up some bumps. Would like reasonable weight, not a heifer but not ultra light either (assuming light stuff on an mtb = $$$). Budget in the $3k +/- range (used). I hopped on local craigslist and frankly have no idea why one bike costs $3k and another one is $6k.

Am going to hit up a few local LBS's as well to see what they have, but in there I'm a baby seal going into a killer whale-populated waters. Won't have any idea what the salesman is saying, either bs'ing me or being honest.

Would appreciate any recommendations, including a good mtb forum (or if you're local to OC, a reputable shop with someone you know there who won't screw me on bike recommendation).

[XXtwindad]

I really don't think (unless you're doing really hardcore dh stuff) that a full suss is necessary. Just me 2cents.

[macaroon]

It's a minefield. Your best bet is probably to go and take a few on a test ride to get a feel for 650B vs 29er, hardtail vs full suspension etc.

Look for bikes with 100mm to 120mm of travel (front, or front and back). I'm not familiar with the trails you ride, so can't say wherther a hardtail or full sus would be most appropriate.

Another thing to look for is a dropper post. And tubeless tyres. And a short stem; alot of MTBs now use a long TT combined with a short stem to improve handling.

MTBs seem to be going 1x with a big cassette; you're less likely to drop a chain and there's less noise.

Used MTBs should be dirt cheap, dont forget to factor in suspension servicing costs though.

If you're handy with a wrench, build your own from used parts!

A 29er with some fairly wide tyres might negate the need for rear suspension if you don't ride really rocky trails

[NHAero]

3-1/2 years ago I purchased a hardly used Pivot 429C with XX1 components, dropper post, and light alloy Stans wheels on Pinkbike for $3K. Still love this bike. Weighs about 25 lbs, 29ers roll over a lot more than my old 26er. 4" rear travel is plenty for where I ride, but takes the curse off of rough sections for my aging back. It's an XC type bike.
Perhaps Of Counsel will jump in - his advice was rally helpful to me and I think he's in your area. I had narrowed my search at the time to Ibis Ripley, Pivot 429, and a similar model by Intense.
One caveat - sizing is inconsistent. A Small in the Pivot 429 had the same geometry as a Medium in the Ibis Ripley.

[Ken Robb]

It might be wise to buy a used 26" bike to ride for a while and get a feel for what kind of riding you want to do. I'll bet you can get something pretty good for $300-500 and resell it for little loss when you decided what you really want.

If you want to come down I-5 you can try my Large-size Marin Rift Zone FS bike from 2001. It's a far cry from the latest designs but it can be a good introduction to the sport and very durable. I live a mile from UCSD where there are a variety of good trails to dip your toe.

[Tony]

I would be looking for a bike similar to this, full suspension 29er
https://us.yt-industries.com/detail/index/sArticle/2120/sCategory/511

With your budget I wouldn't waste my time with a hardtail, full suspension is so much better in so many ways. FS bikes have a clear advantage when things get bumpy, technical. Better traction in all conditions, lots more comfortable and confident inspiring.

[mosca]

I can relate, mountain biker ages ago, roadie for a long while... a few years ago, I rented a Santa Cruz Hightower from The Path bike shop in Tustin, loved it...planning to get myself a FS 29er when life allows...
Anyway, I like that shop and they have a nice rental fleet with rental fees applicable to future purchases, which you may already know, but they are a great resource here in OC, IMO.

[AJosiahK]

Simply enough, I would go for a light travel full sus 29er.

There is so much out there, so much that one might end up riding a ton of stuff and overwhelming the pool before actually deciding on one.

Nimble enough, all day comfort and the positive attributes a 29er sized wheel brings seems like a pretty good path to follow when looking for mtb imho

Ive ridden em all; 26er hardtail (rigid and 80/100mm forks), 29er hardtail ( SS, rigid SS, and 100mm fork), 130 front and rear full sus 29er. and a 140/130 front/rear full sus 27.5.

I still go back to my full sus 29er for most rides. I did recently pick up a 27.5 here and am really loving it but can tell the difference in momentum VS a 29er.

And +1 for a dropper, tubeless and 1x shimano

[peanutgallery]

Rent a few if you can, you'll feel like Rip van Winkle. The geo, drooper post, brakes and drivetrain work in a way that's going to boggle your mind

Specialized, Scott and rocky mountain have a few trail bikes in FS in you price range with good parts on an aluminum frame with a pretty sorted suspension design. Sounds like a 29er with 120 to 150mm of travel. Avoid a 650b at all costs unless it's of the plus variety. Many of those are disappearing, thankfully

Have and count your teeth

[jtakeda]

Echoing a lot of sentiments here.
To me it sounds like youre looking for a Hardtail.

Features wise id look for:
Boost spacing (seems to be easiest to find wheels)
Tubeless
1x (for all the reasons stated above)
Dropper post
+ sizing ie 27.5+/29+--Makes it so you can switch wheelsize and still fit a decent size tire.

I think wheel size and frame size is very subjective-I prefer a 27.5 but I'm also 5'7" I ride about the same size road frame as you but my mtb is a 20''.

I think you should think about what features you want and then go and demo frames with your build spec. I think you'll find that you will be happy on many different bikes.

[54ny77]

Thanks a bunch, folks.

[GonaSovereign]

I was in pretty much the same boat > lots of mtb in the ‘90s, and then nothing until last year. I got a 29er hardtail that was amazing. Did some rides, did some races. I just sold the HT and got a xc-oriented trail bike (or trailish xc race bike) with 120mm travel front and rear. I made the switch because I like xc marathon and the FS makes a difference.

There is some good advice in the thread: rent or borrow to try before buying. Unless you’re vertically challenged, get 29 wheels. $3k will get you plenty of bike.

[CunegoFan]

Rent to find out what will work for your area and the riding you intend to do. One man's basic trail riding is another's double black. There is a huge difference between types of mountain biking and styles of riding. The size of MTB people prefer is all over the place as well. The only way to really know is to try a bunch out and see what you like.

[sfghbiker]

I was in a similar situation to you and settled on a YT Jeffsy 29. It is a great bike but took some getting used to as the geometry is SO different than my hardtail 26 that I was used to riding. Now about 10 rides in my old bike feels twitchy and nervous on any real descents. If I had to do it again I would demo a whole bunch more bikes before choosing. I think that given the amount of climbing I end up doing a bike with a bit less travel might have served me better but the Jeffsy is super fun once you point it downhill. I think that based on your criteria some bikes that come to mind include:

Ibis Ripley (prob at the top of the list but expensive)
Intense Sniper Trail
Santa Cruz Tallboy or 5010
Norco Revolver
Giant Trance
Whyte S-120

I think I would stay away from XC race bikes if you're not racing. No reason to not give yourself a fun time on the descents particularly as shorter travel trail bikes climb so well.

[gdw]

Lots of good advice here. My 2 cents, add the Specialized Epic to your list.of bikes to check out..

[weaponsgrade]

I visit So Cal at least once a year. There's some good riding down there where you could definitely make good use of a FS. I can also appreciate the simplicity of a hard tail. Big fat tires, say 2.5s or higher, paired with wide rims, and the right psi can soak up lots of bumps. My suggestion would be a trail type FS 29er or hardtail with clearance for at least 2.5s, dropper, and 1x.

[54ny77]

I think I answered my own question after watching this video. Full suspension is what I need. Here's a trail I used to ride years ago with a hard tail (well, technically, all of us did, since suspension hadn't come out yet). It's mind-blowing how fast he hits sections of this trail!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJUMzTCnle0

[Jeckel30]

I would definitely choose a full suspension. After riding a hard tail for 10 years, I finally changed and it has been a revelation. I recently picked up a Rocky Mountain Altitude and have really been loving it. It probably has way more travel than I need but it is nice to know that it is there. It climbs very well also.

[Jaybee]

I love hardtails, specifically steel 29" hardtails. But a modern 29 short to mid travel FS at the price point we're discussing is just a more capable machine, and a lot of the drawbacks of FS of yore - wallowy pedaling, poor chain growth management, vague suspension feel - just don't happen in any bike over $2500. Ride a few different platforms and geometries, see what feels good to you, try some 2.5 or 2.6 rubber on wide rims and enjoy. There's been a lot of good candidates mentioned already, but one I haven't seen is the Santa Cruz Tallboy. The current gen3 is a little limited on tire clearance in the back, but rumor has it that gen4 is coming sometime this summer.

[Tony]

I think I answered my own question after watching this video. Full suspension is what I need. Here's a trail I used to ride years ago with a hard tail (well, technically, all of us did, since suspension hadn't come out yet). It's mind-blowing how fast he hits sections of this trail!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJUMzTCnle0

If this is the kind of riding you like I would also recommend a long travel 27.5.
Depending on the bike many like me find the 27.5 more playful, lively.

[spiderman]

Ride all the bikes you can by visiting
Your forum friends with hard tail
And FS MBs...I wouldn’t let you leave
My place without a FS bike with 1x50
Wide, flat bars and short stem...
Can’t wait for you to tell me
Sometime soon how I need to get with the
Program and have a dropper post as well!
You’re going to love it!
It’s like riding through a wormhole!
Seriously, if you’re out in South Dakota
By some chance let me know
And you can give the Spearfish salsa
And hardtail firefly a go:)

[54ny77]

Tony: I presume "long travel" means length of suspension travel (up front and/or in rear)?

I'm going to check out a Giant "Trance" locally that is a 27.5. Fork travel was advertised as 140.

[wooly]

I’m in Orange County so can relate with the trail riding you’ll enjoy around here. I’ve also had a gazillion mountain bikes of most genres from xc hardtails, long and slack more enduro geo hardtails, full suspension trail bikes to full suspension all mountain / enduro bikes. It really all depends on what you want. I’ve got the new Ibis Ripley currently and love it. Like the roadie world there are the big box manufacturers and boutique manufacturers. The range of cost can be big too. My favorite shop in Pro Bike Supply on Newport. They rep a lot of different brands that span the spectrum of cost. PM me and I can share more. Good luck. We are fortunate to live in an area blessed with awesome trail systems with a lot of varied riding.

My current rig:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190519/17f1b6f60e0aca08885a9c37aadec563.jpg

[Tony]

Tony: I presume "long travel" means length of suspension travel (up front and/or in rear)?

I'm going to check out a Giant "Trance" locally that is a 27.5. Fork travel was advertised as 140.

Yes, length of suspension. Here's a very good comparison of long travel 27.5 (Giant Trance) vs 29
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvEMoHNqsBs&t=219s

[macaroon]

Yes, length of suspension. Here's a very good comparison of long travel 27.5 (Giant Trance) vs 29
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvEMoHNqsBs&t=219s

ATGNI. Reviews a 150mm travel 29er that would eat downhill bikes of 8 or 9 years ago for breakfast, then proceeds to post a video of himself riding slowly down a a smooth piece of singletrack. Pick the right tool for the job. 150mm of travel and 29er wheels, absolutely no point unless you're riding very quickly.

[PeregrineA1]

Another OC mountain biker here. And another vote for The Path. Follow them on IG or FB and watch for manufacturers demo days. Then ride as many as you can on familiar trails.

If you are riding Telonics you need a full suspension bike.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gummee]

I would definitely choose a full suspension. After riding a hard tail for 10 years, I finally changed and it has been a revelation. I recently picked up a Rocky Mountain Altitude and have really been loving it. It probably has way more travel than I need but it is nice to know that it is there. It climbs very well also.

I have a Ritchey P650b w a 100mm fork, a rigid Superfly AL, and a Top Fuel. Unless I'm going to one specific trail system (Fountainhead, Black loop) I usually reach for the rigid Superfly.

YMMV as with all things

M

[Tony]

I would definitely choose a full suspension. After riding a hard tail for 10 years, I finally changed and it has been a revelation. I recently picked up a Rocky Mountain Altitude and have really been loving it. It probably has way more travel than I need but it is nice to know that it is there. It climbs very well also.

I currently have a YT Jeffsy 27 cf pro race with 160mm of travel front and rear. I have never felt like I wish I had less travel on any trail!
I had the impression flow trails would be boring with 160mm travel, wrong.

[colker]

I’m in Orange County so can relate with the trail riding you’ll enjoy around here. I’ve also had a gazillion mountain bikes of most genres from xc hardtails, long and slack more enduro geo hardtails, full suspension trail bikes to full suspension all mountain / enduro bikes. It really all depends on what you want. I’ve got the new Ibis Ripley currently and love it. Like the roadie world there are the big box manufacturers and boutique manufacturers. The range of cost can be big too. My favorite shop in Pro Bike Supply on Newport. They rep a lot of different brands that span the spectrum of cost. PM me and I can share more. Good luck. We are fortunate to live in an area blessed with awesome trail systems with a lot of varied riding.

My current rig:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190519/17f1b6f60e0aca08885a9c37aadec563.jpg

That´s where i would spend my money on.. Ibis Ripley.

[dgauthier]

(...) Not least of which, what kind of clothing does one wear riding offroad, for practicality as well as not looking like a total dork? (...)

All your road gear will work fine, with the exception of shoes. Assuming you will definitely use mountain pedals, you will definitely need mountain bike shoes to work with the cleats. You might want to consider using mountain bike jerseys as many have zippered rear pockets. (I've never seen zippered pockets on a road jersey - surely they exist?) Considering the simple trail riding you allude to, you won't need any purpose-built mountain bike clothes whatsoever.

[54ny77]

Thanks again all again for the great info. Would like to mention a very helpful young professional (a high schooler no less, who also started a mtb team at his high school) working at Jax in Irvine helped me out a lot today. He really knew his stuff, explained all the key mtb tech and features, clothing usage, even down to the differences in mtb helmet MIPS technology (vs. road gear). He was also very familiar with all the areas in which I wanted to be doing mtb riding, and the features of one bike vs. another relative to that trail/area. Schooled me on the differences between 27.5, 27.5+, 29'er and even 29+, as well as hardtail vs. full suspension, and on & on. If they had something that fit me well and in my price range in stock, I would have bought something. When I'm ready for something new, I'll def. be going back there. They sell Trek/Bontrager gear.

Moral of the story is customer service at the LBS is not dead! I forget the team member's name, but if anyone has a reach into Jax ownership or senior mgmt., it was the high school guy working at the Culver Dr. location today. Total professional, he's a credit to the shop.

[Gummee]

I've never understood baggies. All that fabric to get caught up 'down there.' Pass. I'll stick with my lycra.

AFA helmets: I've never once fallen anywhere other than going forward. The extra coverage on the back/sides of the helmet? Pass again.

In short: I ride in what I normally ride in with the exception of I'll use older helmets for off-road just in case I do hit a tree/rock/whathaveyou,

If the OC trails are anything like Sandy Eggo trails, I used to ride trails in Sandy Eggo on a CX bike frequently. Liked it better than my 26er C-dale F2000

As with everything YRMV

M

[charliedid]

Thanksgiving all again for the great info. Would like to mention a very helpful young professional (a high schooler no less, who also started a mtb team at his high school) working at Jax in Irvine helped me out a lot today. He really knew his stuff, explained all the key mtb tech and features, clothing usage, even down to the differences in mtb helmet MIPS technology (vs. road gear). He was also very familiar with all the areas in which I wanted to be doing mtb riding, and the features of one bike vs. another relative to that trail/area. Schooled me on the differences between 27.5, 27.5+, 29'er and even 29+, as well as hardtail vs. full suspension, and on & on. If they had something that fit me well and in my price range in stock, I would have bought something. When I'm ready for something new, I'll def. be going back there. They sell Trek/Bontrager gear.

Moral of the story is customer service at the LBS is not dead! I forget the team member's name, but if anyone has a reach into Jax ownership or senior mgmt., it was the high school guy working at the Culver Dr. location today. Total professional, he's a credit to the shop.

Nice story,

I'm curious why you don't just order one through the shop?

[54ny77]

As I said, when I'm ready for new, I'll def. consider going there. For now, am dipping my toes into mtb'ing by buying used first to see what I like vs. new. My last reference point for MTB's was a Stumpjumper circa mid 90's, and it's been leaps & bounds since. Have no idea what kind of bike I'll even like (27.5 vs. 29, etc). And for my budget, there's a huge quality/value gap between used vs. new, very similar to used road bikes here. Consider how many really nice rigs get sold here for a few grand or so that were 3-4x+ when new.

For example, I'm going to be checking out a rig only a few years old where seller has about $7k into it (bike + upgrades). He has it listed locally for about 60% off.

But for mtb shoes, helmet, saddle and other key touch points, most def. will get that from LBS (as I always do).

Nice story,

I'm curious why you don't just order one through the shop?

[Ken Robb]

I think it's easier to buy a used mtn. bike than a road bike because we move around so much more on a mtn. bike that most of us can fit on a wider range of sizes than we can on a road bike. More options for buyers!

Even buying new I always seemed to have to choose between two sizes of identical bikes. Smaller frame might be more maneuverable in tight spaces and larger size might feel better carrying more speed on open terrain. I always preferred the bigger size.

[charliedid]

As I said, when I'm ready for new, I'll def. consider going there. For now, am dipping my toes into mtb'ing by buying used first to see what I like vs. new. My last reference point for MTB's was a Stumpjumper circa mid 90's, and it's been leaps & bounds since. Have no idea what kind of bike I'll even like (27.5 vs. 29, etc). And for my budget, there's a huge quality/value gap between used vs. new, very similar to used road bikes here. Consider how many really nice rigs get sold here for a few grand or so that were 3-4x+ when new.

For example, I'm going to be checking out a rig only a few years old where seller has about $7k into it (bike + upgrades). He has it listed locally for about 60% off.

But for mtb shoes, helmet, saddle and other key touch points, most def. will get that from LBS (as I always do).

Roger that.

[12snap]

I've never understood baggies. All that fabric to get caught up 'down there.' Pass. I'll stick with my lycra.

AFA helmets: I've never once fallen anywhere other than going forward. The extra coverage on the back/sides of the helmet? Pass again.

In short: I ride in what I normally ride in with the exception of I'll use older helmets for off-road just in case I do hit a tree/rock/whathaveyou,

If the OC trails are anything like Sandy Eggo trails, I used to ride trails in Sandy Eggo on a CX bike frequently. Liked it better than my 26er C-dale F2000

As with everything YRMV

M
Baggie shorts provide more protection in case of brushes with tree branches, rocks, etc. Lycra rips quite easily so I like the peace of mind of wearing something more durable over my bibs. With dropper posts to get the saddle out of the way, I have no concerns about things getting caught.

I'm way more likely to, and have fallen in directions other than forward when I'm on my mtn bike so I welcome helmets with more side and back protection. Which is also why I just bought a new helmet with MIPS technology. If the chances of me falling are greater, I want the best protective gear I can get, within reason, though because of cost considerations. As helmets age, the foam and plastics can get brittle and deteriorate making it much harder for them to effectively absorb an impact and much more likely to crack or fall apart.

[peanutgallery]

If you are between sizes...go with the bigger bike. With modern geo geometry it makes you more neutral. I'm 5.10 and in the stone age I was always a medium. But not so much anymore.

I think it's easier to buy a used mtn. bike than a road bike because we move around so much more on a mtn. bike that most of us can fit on a wider range of sizes than we can on a road bike. More options for buyers!

Even buying new I always seemed to have to choose between two sizes of identical bikes. Smaller frame might be more maneuverable in tight spaces and larger size might feel better carrying more speed on open terrain. I always preferred the bigger size.

[peanutgallery]

Then...why would you wear out a retailer about bikes with the intent of going used? Your accolades for the sales bro ring hollow. Just buy a bike in your budget and you'll discover it's a billion times better than any mtb you've ever had. Tech moves fast and its totally worth it to have some new in tech. Easy to overthink

As far as as attire:
If you want to smuggle plums while trail riding go lycra. If you hate your brain, use your old road helmet. Baggies are in

As I said, when I'm ready for new, I'll def. consider going there. For now, am dipping my toes into mtb'ing by buying used first to see what I like vs. new. My last reference point for MTB's was a Stumpjumper circa mid 90's, and it's been leaps & bounds since. Have no idea what kind of bike I'll even like (27.5 vs. 29, etc). And for my budget, there's a huge quality/value gap between used vs. new, very similar to used road bikes here. Consider how many really nice rigs get sold here for a few grand or so that were 3-4x+ when new.

For example, I'm going to be checking out a rig only a few years old where seller has about $7k into it (bike + upgrades). He has it listed locally for about 60% off.

But for mtb shoes, helmet, saddle and other key touch points, most def. will get that from LBS (as I always do).

[54ny77]

Ring hollow? Give me a break. Do you own a business by chance and understand goodwill and the present value of a customer? Lemme explain: a bunch of friends have bought team bikes from that store, easily low-mid 6 figures amongst them the past few years (one of my buddy's mtb alone was $10k,not to mention top of line Madone SLR and then the top shelf Trek TT bike with etap, combined you can do the math on the cost of those 3). They said go see the shop, so I went to the shop to get educated. I got educated. The salesman developed a customer. I will spend a nice amount of money there shortly on soft goods and accessories, it'll be my go-to for bike service (the highest margin part of a shop) and will spend more money there in the years to come including , in all likelihood, a new rig....once I figure out what I like and don't like in an mtb.

But thanks for your opinion.

Then...why would you wear out a retailer about bikes with the intent of going used? Your accolades for the sales bro ring hollow. Just buy a bike in your budget and you'll discover it's a billion times better than any mtb you've ever had. Tech moves fast and its totally worth it to have some new in tech. Easy to overthink

As far as as attire:
If you want to smuggle plums while trail riding go lycra. If you hate your brain, use your old road helmet. Baggies are in

[peanutgallery]

Yes, I do

So your friend bought a bike once... most awesome. You forgot your wallet...even better. Good will and good intentions only go so far. They don't put food on the table. And your profession? I want a coupon...STAT

You were out a salesperson who had no choice but to be nice to you without intent to buy. You talk $ numbers but... they're your friends

Just buy a new bike, you won't regret. It's a billion times better than your last dirt scoot. If you like spending your time chasing problems and wondering if you really need a fork that works...buy a used one. You're in what we call Analysis Paralysis


Ring hollow? Give me a break. Do you own a business by chance and understand goodwill and the present value of a customer? Lemme explain: a bunch of friends have bought team bikes from that store, easily low-mid 6 figures amongst them the past few years (one of my buddy's mtb alone was $10k,not to mention top of line Madone SLR and then the top shelf Trek TT bike with etap, combined you can do the math on the cost of those 3). They said go see the shop, so I went to the shop to get educated. I got educated. The salesman developed a customer. I will spend a nice amount of money there shortly on soft goods and accessories, it'll be my go-to for bike service (the highest margin part of a shop) and will spend more money there in the years to come including , in all likelihood, a new rig....once I figure out what I like and don't like in an mtb.

But thanks for your opinion.

[54ny77]

Please re-read. My buddy alone dropped mid 5 figures in new bikes from the store the past couple years. And other friends who've bought even more sent me there. I just moved to the area, didn't know where to go for good bike shop. Goodwill from friends happy with store sent me there, word of mouth creates new business, etc. Salesman knows who sent me, probably guesses there's business to be had maybe not right then, but eventually. And I was completely upfront about just being there to look at bikes and ask a few questions, to which he was happy to talk about bikes. He had passion for it.
And even more complimentary is he's a teenager who punched well above his weight. Not your typical teen cliche employee.

Oh and yes, I am an owner (indirectly) of a retail store and well aware of the cost of customer acquisition (and, conversely, losing that customer). And the challenges of hiring and mentoring teens eager for work experience and resume building.

Am done explaining. You either understand what I'm saying, or you don't. If your customer service is at the flippant (and I'm being as polite as possible on that) level displayed here by your responses, especially if you own a bike shop (?), well, good luck to you.


Yes, I do

So your friend bought a bike once... most awesome. You forgot your wallet...even better. Good will and good intentions only go so far. They don't put food on the table. And your profession? I want a coupon...STAT

You were out a salesperson who had no choice but to be nice to you without intent to buy. You talk $ numbers but... they're your friends

Just buy a new bike, you won't regret. It's a billion times better than your last dirt scoot. If you like spending your time chasing problems and wondering if you really need a fork that works...buy a used one. You're in what we call Analysis Paralysis

[jtakeda]

Well what did you learn?

Are you thinkin 27.5? 27.5+? 29?
Boost?

I’m curious what kind of bike the shop kid recommended.

I think I said it earlier but if I was guiding someone flyin blind I’d steer them toward a Boost spaced 27.5+ bike.

[54ny77]

Same as your idea, he suggested 27.5 (or 27.5+) to start and reacquaint myself with hills, trails, etc, as well as full suspension. And that a modern 27.5 will be so far light years ahead of what I last remember. Then branch out into other types as I get more into it and explore different terrain. They had a used/demo higher end Fuel model that was within reasonable distance of my budget, and if it fit I'd have stretched and bought it. Was a large though.

Well what did you learn?

Are you thinkin 27.5? 27.5+? 29?
Boost?

I’m curious what kind of bike the shop kid recommended.

I think I said it earlier but if I was guiding someone flyin blind I’d steer them toward a Boost spaced 27.5+ bike.

[jtakeda]

Same as your idea, he suggested 27.5 (or 27.5+) to start and reacquaint myself with hills, trails, etc, as well as full suspension. And that a modern 27.5 will be so far light years ahead of what I last remember. Then branch out into other types as I get more into it and explore different terrain. They had a used/demo higher end Fuel model that was within reasonable distance of my budget, and if it fit I'd have stretched and bought it. Was a large though.

Cool. I’d definitely recommend a plus size because it gives you the versatility of being able to run a 29x2.3 ish if you decide you want larger wheels.

Also dropper post for sure.

Not sure of your inseam but I ride the same size road bike as you and found a large to be quite comfortable.
I’m riding a hard tail though and it’s a 26+ ( with 27.5 wheels) so stand over is much lower than a 29

[54ny77]

That's good to know, thank you for the info. Something tells me I'll be owning more than one mtb....:D

The 27.5+ tires are healthy size, they sure look like they offer extra traction (which was mentioned also during conversation).

I found a couple of shops that rent bikes, so I'll be doing that as well.

Def. yes on the dropper post. What a slick invention! I'm seriously dating myself when saying I used to use the big spring device when it first came out, the Hite rite, which I had on my Fisher.


Cool. I’d definitely recommend a plus size because it gives you the versatility of being able to run a 29x2.3 ish if you decide you want larger wheels.

Also dropper post for sure.

Not sure of your inseam but I ride the same size road bike as you and found a large to be quite comfortable.
I’m riding a hard tail though and it’s a 26+ ( with 27.5 wheels) so stand over is much lower than a 29

[peanutgallery]

Goodwill doesn't feed my dog etc, etc. It's a terrible way to market, unless you get roped into some kind of wacky seminar

You knew what you were doing, you just don't like getting called out on it. Go back and buy a bike...and shorts...and a lid if they earned your dollar

Please re-read. My buddy alone dropped mid 5 figures in new bikes from the store the past couple years. And other friends who've bought even more sent me there. I just moved to the area, didn't know where to go for good bike shop. Goodwill from friends happy with store sent me there, word of mouth creates new business, etc. Salesman knows who sent me, probably guesses there's business to be had maybe not right then, but eventually. And I was completely upfront about just being there to look at bikes and ask a few questions, to which he was happy to talk about bikes. He had passion for it.
And even more complimentary is he's a teenager who punched well above his weight. Not your typical teen cliche employee.

Oh and yes, I am an owner (indirectly) of a retail store and well aware of the cost of customer acquisition (and, conversely, losing that customer). And the challenges of hiring and mentoring teens eager for work experience and resume building.

Am done explaining. You either understand what I'm saying, or you don't. If your customer service is at the flippant (and I'm being as polite as possible on that) level displayed here by your responses, especially if you own a bike shop (?), well, good luck to you.

[Gummee]

You knew what you were doing, you just don't like getting called out on it. Go back and buy a bike...and shorts...and a lid if they earned your dollar

This.

Showrooming will mean fewer and fewer LBSes for when you really need one.

I've had people whip out their phones AS I'M TALKING TO THEM about whatever widget they need to know about and tell me 'Amazon has this for $X less...' Great. Did Amazon just explain to you the ins and outs of that particular widget? Nope. *I* did!

There comes a time when it really isn't about the lowest $ you can buy something for.

If you have to go get something explained to you, it's time to buy from the person explaining it to you.

M

[colker]

This.

Showrooming will mean fewer and fewer LBSes for when you really need one.

I've had people whip out their phones AS I'M TALKING TO THEM about whatever widget they need to know about and tell me 'Amazon has this for $X less...' Great. Did Amazon just explain to you the ins and outs of that particular widget? Nope. *I* did!

There comes a time when it really isn't about the lowest $ you can buy something for.

If you have to go get something explained to you, it's time to buy from the person explaining it to you.

M

There is bit more to real life decisions. Black x white moral digressions on internet forums don´t put food on the table or keep business alive.. just sayin. Judging anyone by half a dozen posts is not that wise.

[54ny77]

Good grief. Some of you guys really are gems. Only on the internet does a question thread turn into the theatre of the absurd.

It must be awesome to be some of you and be right about everything. I guess the grand or so I just spent at an LBS for service-related work on a couple of my bikes doesn't meet the food-on-the-table standards of the self-proclaimed know-it-all's.

I certainly appreciate the advice and suggestions from those who have contributed here and via PM, thank you.

[jimcav]

Cool. I’d definitely recommend a plus size because it gives you the versatility of being able to run a 29x2.3 ish if you decide you want larger wheels.

Also dropper post for sure.

Not sure of your inseam but I ride the same size road bike as you and found a large to be quite comfortable.
I’m riding a hard tail though and it’s a 26+ ( with 27.5 wheels) so stand over is much lower than a 29

I rode a 56cm road bike and now on modern FS bikes I ride large or even on some brands XL. I've rented a medium FS on travels and i feel much better on the larger bikes. I kept my last hardtail in case my son grows to enjoy mtb, but the TT is 23.5" effective. I've made it more modern with shorter stem, wider bars and 1x11 for him. I'd likely size up if buying that bike now.

[peanutgallery]

So did you scour craigslist and find the perfect aging whip with a clapped out fork? I'm dying over here. Bet that shop is banking on your sock purchase. You protest too much, so I know I'm right

Just buy a new, modern, trail bike. You'll have a hard time wiping the smile off your face. In 18 to 24 months, buy another one. Makes life easier

Just trying to help you out. At this rate you'll be in an electric wheel chair before you over analyze this. While we're young:)

Good grief. Some of you guys really are gems. Only on the internet does a question thread turn into the theatre of the absurd.

It must be awesome to be some of you and be right about everything. I guess the grand or so I just spent at an LBS for service-related work on a couple of my bikes doesn't meet the food-on-the-table standards of the self-proclaimed know-it-all's.

I certainly appreciate the advice and suggestions from those who have contributed here and via PM, thank you.

[peanutgallery]

When in doubt go with the larger size bike, you have it correct. Makes you more neutral and maximizes the geo. 5.10 and a medium for decades, large now

Wide bars and short stems fix it. Crazy but true

I rode a 56cm road bike and
now on modern FS bikes I ride large or even on some brands XL. I've rented a medium FS on travels and i feel much better on the larger bikes. I kept my last hardtail in case my son grows to enjoy mtb, but the TT is 23.5" effective. I've made it more modern with shorter stem, wider bars and 1x11 for him. I'd likely size up if buying that bike now.

[zambenini]

That's good to know, thank you for the info. Something tells me I'll be owning more than one mtb....:D

The 27.5+ tires are healthy size, they sure look like they offer extra traction (which was mentioned also during conversation).

I found a couple of shops that rent bikes, so I'll be doing that as well.

Def. yes on the dropper post. What a slick invention! I'm seriously dating myself when saying I used to use the big spring device when it first came out, the Hite rite, which I had on my Fisher.

Yes to multiple MTBs, yes to droppers, you won't go wrong following those two rules. :banana:

This is the thing about MTBs and picking the "one" bike ... if you are really into it and you want to ride multiple days a week for the love of it, and you're not a secret millionaire with nothing to do all day, then most rides will happen on your "local" trail ... the singletrack you can sneak to on your way to/from work, or before the fam gets up and going on Saturday AM, etc... so it really makes sense to focus on what you have right close by that's accessible. You have a ton of variety in SoCal, but also think of the trails you can do on a week day dealing with traffic ... which ones are most convenient to your house? And that's the bike you want. One weekend a month at Big Bear Lake sounds awesome, but that's only a dozen rides.

[54ny77]

Are you for real?

I've no idea why or where outta left field you came into this thread chock full of insults, as I never said anything to you that would have prompted it.

This thread is asking for advice on mtb's. Many fine folks have offered up wisdom here and via email or PM.

Kindly go someplace else and cast your "wisdom" where it's wanted or appreciated.

Thanks.


Goodwill doesn't feed my dog etc, etc. It's a terrible way to market, unless you get roped into some kind of wacky seminar

You knew what you were doing, you just don't like getting called out on it. Go back and buy a bike...and shorts...and a lid if they earned your dollar

[54ny77]

jim how tall are you? i'm 5'9", pretty much right in the middle of bell curve as to proportion.

is there a convention for setting up "reach" on an mtb similar to road bike?

honestly can't remember how i arrived at mtb sizes in the past, i'm sure it was advised by the lbs's where i bought them.

I rode a 56cm road bike and now on modern FS bikes I ride large or even on some brands XL. I've rented a medium FS on travels and i feel much better on the larger bikes. I kept my last hardtail in case my son grows to enjoy mtb, but the TT is 23.5" effective. I've made it more modern with shorter stem, wider bars and 1x11 for him. I'd likely size up if buying that bike now.

[jimcav]

jim how tall are you? i'm 5'9", pretty much right in the middle of bell curve as to proportion.

is there a convention for setting up "reach" on an mtb similar to road bike?

honestly can't remember how i arrived at mtb sizes in the past, i'm sure it was advised by the lbs's where i bought them.

No convention for me except I set my saddle height and setback really pretty similar to my road position, maybe 1 cm lower saddle ht. From there most modern bikes near me Ive tried in shops have the stubby 40-60 cm stem. That puts me feeling best on a large. I think my Indy fab hardtail and a 110 stem and I swapped a 60 or 70 ( it was 2-3 years ago). Anyway it makes a big difference. I am with u on buying used. I haven’t bought a new bike for myself (mtn) in decades. I use craigslist and pinkbike. Starting in 2006 I really got back into MTB and bought and sold 1-2 per year for a few years and so found what I like in terms of good climbing and stable descending— of course now there are so many more bikes that fit that bill. I’ve been content for the last 3 years.