OT OBD2 scanner

[jimcav]

I watch 'innovation nation' with my boys Sat am and this last episode had a smart phone-linked scanner called fixd. just so happens that yesterday the check engine light came on on our old 2006 ford minivan. I did a quick google search and well rated code scanners like Bosch were $200+. l like the idea of knowing if it is serious or not, and just knowing what it says before taking it to a mechanic. Anyone have a recommendation for an affordable ODB2 scanner--looking to spend less than $100
thanks
jim

[NHAero]

This is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/?tag=myelecarfor-20&

LE Link

[Ken Robb]

I think some of the auto parts retail stores will scan it for you free in the hope of getting to sell needed parts and/or service.

[fmradio516]

Not sure if i just got lucky, but both cars ive owned (I hold onto cars till forever), they both (80s BMW 3, and 04 Jeep GC) have a "hidden" feature that allowed you to either hit the gas pedal a certain way with only the battery on or turn the key to battery 3 times in a row and it will spit out a code to the dashboard, then you can look up the code online. Do not all cars do this?

[jimcav]

I think some of the auto parts retail stores will scan it for you free in the hope of getting to sell needed parts and/or service.

my dear wife wants it only driven to the mechanic we use, if it is to be driven with the check engine light on

[jimcav]

This is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/?tag=myelecarfor-20&

LE Link

that is far more affordable and delivers tomorrow--may pull the trigger on that. i just found a tom's guide review online with several, but that wasn't one of them

[AngryScientist]

for a ford, any scanner will do. just get the alpha-numeric code that it gives you and then google that code with your make and model and you'll almost certainly find the most likely cause of the problem. the internet and car enthusiasts have really opened up a world of knowledge, which is really cool.

[jimcav]

for a ford, any scanner will do. just get the alpha-numeric code that it gives you and then google that code with your make and model and you'll almost certainly find the most likely cause of the problem. the internet and car enthusiasts have really opened up a world of knowledge, which is really cool.

I wanted to see if there was any consensus here or at least could point me to some device that someone I "knew" used and it worked. online reviews and such are all over the place.
jim

[unterhausen]

did you check the gas cap? #1 reason for CEL

I recently got one of these because my old scanner doesn't work with volkswagon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked fine, had a little trouble connecting at first because I misread the directions.

[jimcav]

did you check the gas cap? #1 reason for CEL

I recently got one of these because my old scanner doesn't work with volkswagon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked fine, had a little trouble connecting at first because I misread the directions.

so this scanner brings up a question b/c it says you can clear codes with it. the other one recommended above doesn't say that. it would be nice if it is NOT a big deal causing the engine light to come on, to clear it so it doesn't continue to be on? edit--delving into amazon reviews it seems the LE Link does allow to clear codes

[unterhausen]

just about any code reader can clear codes. It might be useful if it's a hard fault. But I always leave them.

I had figured out what was wrong with the volkswagon, broken wire. I didn't want to fix it so we took it to the dealer. They screwed around with the car for weeks and finally gave up and asked me for more info. I told them which wire was broken and sent them a link to a youtube. I left the code that I got which I'm pretty sure is related to the broken wire. It was a power supply wire for the communications, and the car was throwing "weak communications" codes.

[vqdriver]

for simply obd code reading, just get one of those bluetooth enabled ones on amazon. they work fine.
for particular makes you may need a particular protocol to do any 2 way communication, but for reading codes i don't think it matters.

fwiw, i use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
no issues, works fast, and 'talks' to my car.

[dave thompson]

Ive used the Ancel AD410 OBD2 code reader for all the years we’ve had our car far from civilization in Baja California. It’s worked perfectly and diagnosed the issue correctly every single time. When we left Baja I gave it to the local mechanic and taught him how to use it. He’s doing a land-Office business now because he’s got the correct fix always.

The Ancel AD410 OBD2 reader is available from Amazon for less than $45. http://www.ancelscanner.com/ancel-ad410-obd2-vehicle-code-reader-scanner/

[jimcav]

I'm going to try the Le Link one, it is half the cost of others and has decent reviews and returns are usually straightforward on amazon
jim

[Shoeman]

I've gone to Advance Auto & used the ones they have for free, Autozone probably the same.

[ScottW]

I use this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD2-Scanner-Adapter-OBDII-Diagnostic-Tool-TORQUE-Android/132147449025

Not sure if that's the exact same vendor I bought mine from, but it's the same model. About $10 and has worked fine on my Subaru and Acura. Use it with the free version of the Torque app for Android, and it should cover most of the basic diagnostic needs for shade tree home mechanics. Reads codes (along with some basic info on what they mean), clears codes, can monitor several engine parameters in real time, etc.

[Ken Robb]

In some cars there are two different check engine warnings. One is yellow and means look into this problem sooner rather than later and the red one means STOP DRIVING and SHUT OFF THE ENGINE! Jim might be fine driving a little bit for a diagnosis.

As already suggested a loose or faulty gas cap is often to blame as is a dipstick not fully inserted for yellow codes.

I didn't know we could buy useful scanners so cheaply. As a car geek I might "NEED" one. ;)

[kramnnim]

I have this one, works fine. https://www.amazon.com/U480-Engine-Scanner-Trouble-Reader/dp/B000LEPT5G

[choke]

I've been using an OBDLink MX for a couple of years now....I'm very happy with it.

http://www.obdlink.com/mxp/

[Ralph]

In our area....any Autozone store will read the codes free. And if a simple fix...they might fix it for you.

[paredown]

I use this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD2-Scanner-Adapter-OBDII-Diagnostic-Tool-TORQUE-Android/132147449025

Not sure if that's the exact same vendor I bought mine from, but it's the same model. About $10 and has worked fine on my Subaru and Acura. Use it with the free version of the Torque app for Android, and it should cover most of the basic diagnostic needs for shade tree home mechanics. Reads codes (along with some basic info on what they mean), clears codes, can monitor several engine parameters in real time, etc.
I use the same one--these super cheap ones are all produced with pirated Elm 327 chip sets, so their functionality is pretty limited. I have used it for simple diagnostics and code resets on both my Tundra and our late Volvo V70--things like the O2 sensor related codes (emissions) that are part of the universal implementation.

As I understand it, the OBD-II diagnostics are written in such a way that the first set of data registers are implemented the same on all vehicles--and that's what the cheap scanners can read (and often reset).

Then there is a set of extended registers where each manufacturer implements as they see fit, so often anything in those registers requires a manufacturer's specific device to reset (and often even to read them). So all the VW guys buy the aftermarket VCDS from Ross Tech (VW-Audi) for full functionality, the Volvo guys are buying pirated copies of the Volvo specific device (name escapes me), and the Mercedes people have to use the dealer (and the Bosch 'Hammer') that I don't think has been pirated.

Pre OBD-II--someone mentioned light sequences and the rest--those were all supplanted/replaced by OBD-II.

[jimcav]

i got the link scanner, code was P2004, not serious, IMRC control valve stuck open on bank 1
Quick web search showed the plastic bushings crack and fall off, the the control linkage arm pops off. I opened my hood and sure enough, the bushing is gone and the arm is free of the bracket. what is really weird is the linkage arm to the other bank is not even there, and looks like it hasn't been in a long time. I went back into our service records and there was a comment about the linkage missing and "check TSB?" so it has run for years with no issue with one bank of the engine not having that valve close ever, and now the other is in "open", so i assume all it does is waste fuel at lower rpms etc. I'll order the bushing--it seems easy to do myself...

[AngryScientist]

great. glad that worked out for you jim.

a cheap code scanner is a must have if you keep cars on the road for a while.

[ScottW]

...so i assume all it does is waste fuel at lower rpms etc...

Theoretically it's proper function is the opposite of that. Intake runner flappers are called different things by different manufacturers but their purpose is to induce air turbulence in the intake runners, which helps to more completely atomize the fuel (on port injected engines) so the engine runs more efficiently and/or smoothly at lower rpms and lower intake air temperatures. If you were to notice symptoms it would likely be at low loads or idle, particularly on cold starts in winter. Or you may notice nothing, depending.

The flip side to those flappers is even when they're fully open, there's still a metal rod and a small cross-section of the flapper sitting in the intake runners. On track cars or dyno queens, some people surgically remove that slight restriction from the intake to pick up the few extra hp on the top end.

[likebikes]

the cheap ones from walmart are fine