BB-86 BB guidance needed

[Clancy]

I’ve acquired a new Ti frame with a BB-86 BB shell and need some guidance.

Before we go any further let’s get this out of the way. BB-86 is just a terrible design, at least as far as I can determine. Why the industry ever went away from BSA BBs is beyond me. T-47 is perhaps the only other solution that should be permitted. If I were King, it would be the law of the land, BSA or T-47 only.

So we got that out of the way.

I’m using the new Easton crankset with 48/32 chainrings. The Easton crank uses a 30mm spindle so a treaded BB from Wheels Manufacturing is not a solution.

I pressed in a set of bearings and must have screwed it up as the bearings are now noticeably rough. I’ve ordered another set of bearings and will give it another go.

I used a Wheels Manufacturing bearing press with the appropriate cups but had a terrible time getting the bearing cups aligned as they went in. I pressed in one side, then the other. Each went in crooked and was forced into alignment as I pressed them in. I tried everything to try to keep the bearings straight but there seemed to be far too much resistance. I even tried using a heat gun on the shell but that made little difference. I used Parks grease. As each bearing popped into place using incredible force from the press it produced a loud pop so loud and violent a sound that I though I cracked the frame. It was a miserable experience and I knew immediately that the bearings were compromised. I’ve pressed in countless headsets and other BB’s, this is my first time with BB-86 and it sucked.

I ordered some Enduro bearings to try this again. The first set were Easton’s. And this time around I’m going to go with the Parks press to see if that helps.

So obviously I need some help. What’s the trick(s) to getting these in correctly?

Signed, Very Frustrated.

[FriarQuade]

Sounds like the BB shell might be significantly undersized. Dealt with this for a friend on her "boutique" mountain frame. When you take the bearings out to try again, measure the bore of the shell and see where it's at and take it from there.

BB86/92 and a 30mm spindle is the worst combo out there. Would be wise to stick a 24 or DUB spindled crank in there.

[dougefresh]

I have a set of the Race Face cranks on a PF92 frame. This is essentially the MTB version of what you have.

I noticed that the bearings spin much more freely if I did not use the little sleeve that spans the gap between the 2 cups inside the shell. YMMV but maybe worth a shot.

[cmbicycles]

I’ve acquired a new Ti frame with a BB-86 BB shell and need some guidance.

Before we go any further let’s get this out of the way. BB-86 is just a terrible design, at least as far as I can determine. Why the industry ever went away from BSA BBs is beyond me. T-47 is perhaps the only other solution that should be permitted. If I were King, it would be the law of the land, BSA or T-47 only.

So we got that out of the way.

I’m using the new Easton crankset with 48/32 chainrings. The Easton crank uses a 30mm spindle so a treaded BB from Wheels Manufacturing is not a solution.

I pressed in a set of bearings and must have screwed it up as the bearings are now noticeably rough. I’ve ordered another set of bearings and will give it another go.

I used a Wheels Manufacturing bearing press with the appropriate cups but had a terrible time getting the bearing cups aligned as they went in. I pressed in one side, then the other. Each went in crooked and was forced into alignment as I pressed them in. I tried everything to try to keep the bearings straight but there seemed to be far too much resistance. I even tried using a heat gun on the shell but that made little difference. I used Parks grease. As each bearing popped into place using incredible force from the press it produced a loud pop so loud and violent a sound that I though I cracked the frame. It was a miserable experience and I knew immediately that the bearings were compromised. I’ve pressed in countless headsets and other BB’s, this is my first time with BB-86 and it sucked.

I ordered some Enduro bearings to try this again. The first set were Easton’s. And this time around I’m going to go with the Parks press to see if that helps.

So obviously I need some help. What’s the trick(s) to getting these in correctly?

Signed, Very Frustrated.

What is the frame? I am not sure you have a BB86 frame. Maybe BB30 or PF30? I'm not familiar with any ti frames that used bb-86, also a BB86 bottom bracket is for a 24mm spindle, not 30.

What press are you using, and do you have the proper drifts to install? I use the Park headset press and usually have done one side at a time so the opposite shell face is perpendicular and solid for guiding the bearing in straight.

Park Tools BB Standards Reference (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-1)

[kramnnim]

BB Infinite might solve the problem https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/bb86-86-5mm-for-30mm-spindles-v2

[Blown Reek]

For what it's worth, when I first pressed in the Shimano-compatible Chris King PF30 bottom bracket when I got my Spectrum, it too was noticeably rough. Instead of trying a workaround, I ran Campagnolo with the Parlee PF30 cups (instead of the 9000 grouppo that was supposed to go on the bike when I got it) and haven't had a problem since. It's hard to think that Seven/Spectrum puts out and incorrect product, as it's hard to think that King puts out an incorrect product, but I guess that's just how machining tolerances run. Some are perfect and some are barely too tight.

Since then, the two bikes I've had built both have T47 bottom brackets.

[Clancy]

What is the frame? I am not sure you have a BB86 frame. Maybe BB30 or PF30? I'm not familiar with any ti frames that used bb-86, also a BB86 bottom bracket is for a 24mm spindle, not 30. What press are you using, and do you have the proper drifts to install? I use the Park headset press and usually have done one side at a time so the opposite shell face is perpendicular and solid for guiding the bearing in straight.

Park Tools BB Standards Reference (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-1)

BB-86 can take either a 24mm, 24/22mm or 30mm crank spindle, and yes it’s a BB-86 frame.

Dougefresh- I intentionally left out the plastic sleeve.

The BBInfinite looks like a possible solution but pretty pricey. Easton/Raceface BBs can be had for under $45. I would like to not have to spend that kind of money and would like to use this Easton EC90 crankset I purchased for this build rather than go to a Shimano or SRAM crankset.

The issue is keeping the cups square to the frame as they’re being pressed in, they start square, or even, then immediately want to go in at an angle.

What are the proper steps in pressing in the cups and any tips on how to keep them going in straight?

[Blown Reek]

What are the proper steps in pressing in the cups and any tips on how to keep them going in straight?

Start with one side and make sure it's going in parallel as you press it in. Once it's seated, repeat. It seems easy in theory, but one (or both) cups always seem to be a problem. To mitigate the drifting I do the following (and this is with a Park HHP-2)...

Put the cup as parallel to the frame as possible, and tighten the press just enough to hold the cup in place- use the "clicks" in the press to set it as close as you can, and then tighten the other end. More likely than not, the side will go in perfectly, and then do the same thing for the other side.

Doing both sides at once is a good way to un-round the bottom bracket and have your cups crooked, so one side at a time.

[FriarQuade]

The issue is keeping the cups square to the frame as they’re being pressed in, they start square, or even, then immediately want to go in at an angle.

What are the proper steps in pressing in the cups and any tips on how to keep them going in straight?

First step and I mean first, is to measure the damn frame. If it's out of spec deal with that first and everything else will go much smoother.

Using a cone on the empty part of the BB shell makes sure the press shaft is running concentric to the bore and will pretty much ensure the bearing goes in square. But that's not your ultimate problem.

[beeatnik]

BB-86 can take either a 24mm, 24/22mm or 30mm crank spindle, and yes it’s a BB-86 frame.

Dougefresh- I intentionally left out the plastic sleeve.



Any frame can take a 25, 24, 24/22 or 30mm spindle. Doesn't mean you'll have trouble free interchangeability. With BB86 aka PF86, as the Friar mentioned, native Shimano cranks and a PF86 bottom bracket are the way to go. I think some of us were confused because you mention pressing in bearings and not cups. Tho that would be unlikely as there are no Ti bottom bracket shells where the bearings press in directly a la BB30 or BB90.

Anyhoo, Colnago uses a BB86 system on their high end frames. They call it Threadfit 82.5. I ran Shimano cranks and a PF86 BB on my C60 and that was the best press fit system I've tried. Silent and smooth.