Fulcrum DB 7 conversion to QR

[pcxmbfj]

Fulcrum DB7 centerlock

Ordered these as an upgrade fora Soma DoubleDisc I use for trails and carrying.
Liked that they are wider, should be better than the 32h generic I'm using, and they have conversion kits to 9mm QR and thruaxle.
Fronts converted fine but rear instructions are abstruse.
Can anyone please explain these or point to a website that can provide some enlightenment.:confused:

[pcxmbfj]

One of few hits found when searching.

"I received the Fulcrum Racing 7 LG DB wheelset which came supplied with various parts for conversion to 135mm QR. There are no single instructions to explain how to undertake this conversion, and the exploded diagrams for the various parts only work in isolation for the parts concerned. The rear hub is fitted with a 142mm spacer on the axle and there are no instructions provided on how to remove this! I found a post on an internet forum which explained the process, requiring the removal of a counter threaded part. In summary, if these wheels are advertised with axle conversion kits, then they should be supplied with proper instructions that a competent home mechanic can follow. Will now arrange for return and refund!"

[Jaybee]

Everything below is a guess, but these look similar to some (I think) Halo hubs that came on a Roval wheelset I have:

So is the rear hub currently 142x12 (the drawing in the upper right of the second page scan)? Parts C and F should be interference fit with a rubber o-ring - just pull them out - maybe fingers, maybe a needlenose. It looks like there are wrench flats on parts E and D? If you can unscrew those (possibly reverse threaded, and you probably need to hold one side of the axle while unscrewing the other side) then you can replace them by screwing in parts A and B. Keep H in the same place on the freehub side. After A and B are installed, press in the QR adapter (part G) on either side.

Good luck, hope it works out for you.

[pcxmbfj]

Thanks loads.
I have an axle vice that I think will hold to remove E.
Believe one side was reverse threads but can't tell while it's still on.
Doesn't "Close 15 Nm" arrow indicate that?
Can't get wheel to shop today and he closes on Saturdays.

[kiloran]

Apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread but instructions for doing this are still thin on the ground and this thread is the top result on google search for this.

Which wheels can be converted?

Most Fulcrum road wheels since around 2012 when they switched to cartridge bearings (except the cheapest ones and some OEM ones) convert the same way, and this also applies to many Campy wheels too. May also apply to Fulcrum-branded custom and OEM-fit wheels - for example Bianchi have specced a custom version of the Quattro 4 DB (Racing 4 DB) on their bikes recently. Regarding OEM fit just check that your front axle is definitely 15mm internal diameter as the catalog shows that some OEM wheels use a 12mm axle which can't be adapted, other than using one of those generic 12mm to QR push fit axles.

But, for most wheels both front and back axles are designed such that they always need adapting, be it for 142/135 spacing for the rear and 15/12/9mm/QR for the axles/QRs.

Fulcrum retail wheels come with the necessary adapters in some markets, although as of 2022 I think they're starting to leave them out as so many road bikes have gone to disc and thru axles.

So, if you don't have the parts it's just a question of getting them. Parts numbers are in the Fulcrum catalog and in this post, but check the spares catalog for your specific wheels to make sure you order the right ones. They're expensive, particularly for the budget wheels where they're getting on for 20% of the purchase cost.

Front conversion

For the fronts the end caps on both sides are just push fit and surprisingly tight to remove (there's a rubber o-ring that holds them in place). They do have a lip so it's a question of finding a way to apply pressure to that lip without touching the hub shell. Mole grips holding some scrap inner tube will probably work well. Grease the replacement end cap so it's easier to remove when you come to do the bearings. For the front the part numbers are RM11-TAQR for 9mm QR, KITFCFA12 for 12mm thru, or KITFCFA15 for 15mm thru.

Rear Conversion

On the rear it's similar, except the drive side end cap is reverse threaded.
Remove the non drive side cap - it just pulls off - and then remove the plastic bearing pre-load collar. 2.5mm hex for the fastener and then it unscrews anti-clockwise. You'll need to stop the axle from spinning when you do this but it's not massively torqued so finger pressure will be enough.

With the collar off put a 17mm cone spanner or similar on the exposed flats on the non drive side. Use another cone spanner on the drive side and undo the drive side metal nut CLOCKWISE (reverse thread). Replace the end caps on both sides with the adapters. Part number is either RM16-TA12142 (for 142mm spacing) or RM16-TA12135 for 135mm spacing.

With those adapters in place you've set your required spacing and optionally you can now fit the QR adapters if you're converting to 135mm/QR. As with the front they're just push fit. Part number KITFCRAQR.

Being Campy/Fulcrum the adapters aren't cheap so it's important to get the right ones first time. In comparison FSA, who use a similar solution, charge buttons for their adapters. For QR it looks like Fulcrum also sell a quick release kit which includes the necessary adapters which might be useful if you don't have the releases already. No idea whether Fulcrum's QR cam is any good, I always use heavy Shimano ones because I value my teeth. Part number for that is on your wheels' page in the spare parts catalog.

I think Fulcrum were ahead of the game with this approach because it means you can adapt your road wheels to any spacing or axle spec - well until we end up with boost gravel frames I guess! They're pretty easy to service with minimal tooling and the bearings are easy to replace too - even the freehub ones. Which is good because in wet conditions they don't have great sealing. Clearly it doesn't rain much in Milano...