Singlespeed Setup

[jckid]

As I do more research on singlespeeds, I am getting more and more confused on the best option for me. I like to think that I am fairly mechanical for a girl, but I'm realizing that certain singlespeed setups may require maintenance beyond my abilities. What I need is something that will be easy to adjust and easy to fix a flat on the trail.

I was originally thinking of converting a geared (disc brake) frame with an eccentric rear wheel. From what I've read, this setup could be a nightmare if I get a flat, and the disc brake adjustment could be problematic. I've also read that horizontal dropouts don't work that great with disc brakes, so now I'm thinking that maybe I should be thinking eccentric bottom bracket with disc brakes. Or maybe I should ditch the disc brake idea and go with v-brakes. I do not want to use a chain tensioner.

So, what is the best (easiest to maintain and change flats) combination for me: eccentric rear wheel or eccentric bottom bracket or horizontal dropouts AND disc brakes or v-brakes?

[coylifut]

the easiest is the v brake option with track style fork ends in the rear. i noticed from the simple profile shown, that you are in CA. If it's a relatively dry part of CA, I'd opt for the V brake on the SS. Part of the beauty of an SS is it's simplicity. adding ecentric bb or wheel adds complexity to a situation that doesn't need it. SS bikes with disk brakes are really trick, but they do add weight and maintenance.

[obtuse]

take the bike you have now. put it in a gear you like. don't ever shift.

obtuse

[weatherman]

.............
So, what is the best (easiest to maintain and change flats) combination for me: eccentric rear wheel or eccentric bottom bracket or horizontal dropouts AND disc brakes or v-brakes?

I have run tensioners, EBB, eccentric rear hubs/wheels and horizontal drops on a wide variety of singlespeed mountain, road and cx bikes.

I would definitely avoid EBB rear hub/wheel setups combined with disc brakes and horizontal dropouts combined with disc brakes.

I'd rank horizontal drops with v-brakes and EBB with any kind of brakes as the best options. In fact, for "changing a tire", I'd rank the EBB bike as easiest as all you do is flip the QR and drop the wheel, done. In contrast, if you use horizontal drops you have to unbolt your wheel (both sides) and slide off. Then, you must be careful when remounting your wheel to get it straight in the dropouts as you tighten down each axle bolt. Its easy to get a bit crooked if you tighten down one side to much in the process etc.

Now, having said that, "setting up" the EBB is going to be more work than setting up a horizontal drop type rig with a traditional bottom bracket. Myself, I would vote for a frame with an EBB--get one with a good design from a reputable builder and its a one time adjustment and changing tires/flats etc is easy. Not to mention you can run disc brakes no problem with this type of setup (important if you are setting up a mountain bike).

Don't forget the option of sliding dropouts that is now becoming available from Paragon. I've not run a frame with these, but builders like Moots have gone to them now and will no longer do EBB frames, stating that sliding dropouts are a better option.

Good luck and have fun.

[gdw]

Are you experienced riding off road? Have you used single speeds before? What's your budget?

[jckid]

Are you experienced riding off road? Have you used single speeds before? What's your budget?

Yes, I am experienced riding off road. It's been a few years since I had a mountain bike though. The only trail riding I've done recently is on my motorcycle. My only experience with singlespeeds dates back to when I was a kid. As far as budget, I'm looking to spend a maximum of $1000 on the frame, and I prefer Ti. I then plan to build it up piece by piece.

[zank]

I chose an EBB and disks. Here are my reasons.

1. You will set chain tension on the EBB once. It is locked in after that. You can pop the wheel out, change the flat, pop it back in and the chain will be at the same tension as before without any fiddling on the trail. I know it is not a big deal to set tension with horizontal frame ends, but why bother if you don't have to?

2. With disks, you don't have to release any cables to change a wheel. I think disks are simpler anyway.

Just as a nit-pick on terminology. A horizontal frame end (like those on track bikes and SS mountain bikes) are different than horizontal dropouts like on road bikes. It's a small detail, but the wheel on a track bike or SS does not "dropout".

[erikbrooks]

Weatherman talks of needing nuts, not skewers for a frame with horizontal dropouts. I've been commuting several Seattle winters on hilly streets with my old beater SS. I get several flats a winter, and it's easy to do the change, excepting the cold hands. Carrying some of those disposable medical gloves at least leaves me with clean hands at the end of the job.

My commute is hilly, and I'm a strong guy - cyclocross and XC ski racer - and I'm putting lots of torque into that chain, and I have no problems with a skewer. I've heard of problems where someone is using some modern lightweight model. Mine is some older model - nothing special, but solid. Never a problem. YMMV.

Here's what Sheldon Brown has to say
"Solid-Axle vs Quick Release

Conventional wisdom is that you need a solid (nutted or "bolt-on") axle hub for fixed-gear or singlespeed use, and that a quick-release will not hold the wheel solidly enogh in a horizontal fork end. This is not true, however.

Since most newer bikes have vertical dropouts, people have gotten used to wimpy aluminum skewers, and often don't adjust them as tightly as they might. If you use a good quality (I think Shimano is the best) skewer , tightened securely, it will hold just fine.

A quick release is a considerable timesaver in switching a flip-flop wheel around, and having a QR means that you don't need to carry a big wrench to be able to replace a damaged inner tube. "

If you haven't read this, check this: http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html

[gdw]

Do an Ebay search in cycling for HI-LIGHT and Airborne. There is a Chinese seller who is offering ti frames in your price range and size which can be customized for single speed use. He lists horizontal dropouts as an option and might offer an EBB as well. His rating is 100% so he is legit. I'd go with EBB with v's or take Erik's advice if you go for horizontal dropouts. Disks are great if you ride in a wet area but are overkill for a light rider under normal conditions. They also will add at least a pound of extra weight to the bike which can easily be built under 20 pounds with v's.

Ebay link
http://cgi.ebay.com/AIRBORNE-Lancaster-Titanium-Frame-All-Size-Available_W0QQitemZ200054071281QQihZ010QQcategoryZ 98083QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Frankwurst]

If you can get past the Titanium desire and lugged steel will work check out a Rivendell Quickbeam. :beer:

[Andreas]

The Quickbeam is as slick as they come.

I have mine for two years and love it.
Slanted dropouts, so you don't have to adjust cantis with cog changes. I move from 16 to 15 to 14 with a 42t front ring w/o touching the brakes.

Fine for commutes, centuries plus rides and took it on a couple of fast rides with the college team. Ride it in winter with 35mm Nokians, in summer with 23-27mm road tires.

My vote goes to slanted horizontal dropouts and cantis.
Did not vote for lack of that option.

Andreas

[terry b]

I have 2 SS MTBs on the road, one with horizontal drop outs and one with verticals and an ENO hub. Both use V-brakes. I find the ENO wheel by far the easiest to change a flat on as all you do to take it off is push it down, just like a "regular" bike. Changing the wheel on the horizontal drop bike invariably has me ending up having to finesse the chain in some manner or the other and I don't like the resulting greasy fingers.

Putting the wheel back on in both cases is simple although setting the tension with the ENO wheel is simpler - it's sort of self-setting and you don't have to take the time to make sure the wheel is pefectly centered.

No comments on disks - too much technology for what is supposed to be a simple bike in my opinion.

[toaster]

I'll go with the eccentric BB and disks.

Especially mechanical discs because they're much simpler than V-brakes when discs are cable operated. This is not the best technology for discs, just the simplest option like the singlespeed bike itself.

The vertical dropouts and the disc mount make wheel and chain re-assembly easiest. No cable noodle, just line up the rotor and hang the chain and you're in.

[Ti Designs]

Have you given any thought to front wheel drive?

[dgstringfield]

Don't forget the option of sliding dropouts that is now becoming available from Paragon. I've not run a frame with these, but builders like Moots have gone to them now and will no longer do EBB frames, stating that sliding dropouts are a better option.

Good luck and have fun.

Second the Paragon dropout option. Especially if you want to run disk brakes. Also, you can change to a derailer dropout if you decide you want to run gears.

[woolly]

Second the Paragon dropout option. Especially if you want to run disk brakes. Also, you can change to a derailer dropout if you decide you want to run gears.

I'll "third" that.

[Jack Brunk]

Fourth it also.


Jack

[52-16SS]

I had an EBB MTB with discs and probably wouldn't do it again. I'd go with a front disc (you use this the most anyway) and horizontal dropouts with a v-brake on the rear. Set screws in the dropouts would be nice.

[weatherman]

I had an EBB MTB with discs and probably wouldn't do it again. I'd go with a front disc (you use this the most anyway) and horizontal dropouts with a v-brake on the rear. Set screws in the dropouts would be nice.

Why not? Bad EBB design I am guessing (taking some liberty here, sorry). I've seen/used a few different setups and I will agree, some of the designs are for crap (how about the old Cannondale 1FG setup--junk). However, a good EBB design is tough to beat in my opinion. I suppose the relative "cleanliness" of where you ride can also play in to your evaluation--dirty, wet and muddy locales probably aren't EBB friendly......

Interesting thread here either way. And by the way, 52x16, thats some serious gear inches brotha!

[coylifut]

Why not? Bad EBB design I am guessing (taking some liberty here, sorry). I've seen/used a few different setups and I will agree, some of the designs are for crap (how about the old Cannondale 1FG setup--junk). However, a good EBB design is tough to beat in my opay in to your evaluation--dirty, wet and muddy locales probably aren't EBB friendly......

Interesting thread here either way. And by the way, 52x16, thats some serious gear inches brotha!

it's a typo - he means 32x16 for the prefered 2:1 ratio

:beer: :beer: :beer:

[Jack Brunk]

Here's a picture of the Paragon works system.

[Frankwurst]

The Quickbeam is as slick as they come.

I have mine for two years and love it.
Slanted dropouts, so you don't have to adjust cantis with cog changes. I move from 16 to 15 to 14 with a 42t front ring w/o touching the brakes.

Fine for commutes, centuries plus rides and took it on a couple of fast rides with the college team. Ride it in winter with 35mm Nokians, in summer with 23-27mm road tires.

My vote goes to slanted horizontal dropouts and cantis.
Did not vote for lack of that option.

Andreas
AKA the simplespeed setup. That's my gig. The less parts and pieces to deal with the better IMO. :beer:

[Bittersweet]

take the bike you have now. put it in a gear you like. don't ever shift.

obtuse

I understand the benefits of a fixie but what is the reason to ride a single speed? A coach of mine made us do as Obtuse suggests above in the early spring and it was just fine. Spin a lot, push a little, get in base miles. Later we could use all the gears. Why bother making a single speed if its not a fixie?