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View Full Version : new fits with fit re: mostly where do you put your hands when on the tops?


eddief
04-24-2019, 04:16 PM
I have been experimenting ad nauseum lately cuz of my thumb CMC pain. I thought shorter reach and upjut stem might change the weight distribution in my favor. That was a mistake. Did 30 and my hands hurt in places I did not know were places. So back out on the other bike with more reach today and I was way more comfy.

I tend to be most comfortable cruising with palms on the curve behind the hoods, almost never on the hoods except for braking. And when needed the other fingers wrap around the bars for bumps and stability but still just behind the hoods.

How about you?

Ozz
04-24-2019, 04:36 PM
...I tend to be most comfortable cruising with palms on the curve behind the hoods, almost never on the hoods except for braking. And when needed the other fingers wrap around the bars but still just behind the hoods.

How about you?

+1

I have all kinds of neck / back / nerve stuff going on....I'm either in the drops stretched out (feels great but need more core strength to hold it there) or on the curve behind the hood as you describe.

Dave
04-24-2019, 04:40 PM
I adjust the hoods so there's a slight upward angle, where my hands rest and there's a smooth transition onto the top of the bar. I use the hoods most of the time. I see some goofy old school setups, where the levers are placed way down on the hook, so only the crook of the thumb bears all the weight.

If you constantly have your hands behind the hoods, it would mean too much reach. Shortening the reach should have allowed the use of the hoods.

Another common problem is a saddle that's too far forward, placing too much weight on the hands. Post a picture, that might help.

eddief
04-24-2019, 04:50 PM
i think supporting my weight with my palms resting at the back curve of the bar rather than my hands wrapped around the hoods might be best for me. still fiddling.

I adjust the hoods so there's a slight upward angle, where my hands rest and there's a smooth transition onto the top of the bar. I use the hoods most of the time. I see some goofy old school setups, where the levers are placed way down on the hook, so only the crook of the thumb bears all the weight.

If you constantly have your hands behind the hoods, it would mean too much reach. Shortening the reach should have allowed the use of the hoods.

Another common problem is a saddle that's too far forward, placing too much weight on the hands. Post a picture, that might help.

bigbill
04-24-2019, 05:50 PM
I've mostly changed over to wide bars (46cm in my case) with shallow drops and flares. It allows me to ride in the drops pretty comfortably. I double tape the drops so my hand is a little more open when I grip.

Ken Robb
04-24-2019, 05:56 PM
What if you adjusted your bars so you spend most of your time in the drops and occasionally up on the hoods for a change of position?

eddief
04-24-2019, 06:03 PM
with a tall headtube already and spacers and +10 stem. I am comfy enough in the drops but still prefer the tops. If it had a quill like in my older days I could go higher.

What if you adjusted your bars so you spend most of your time in the drops and occasionally up on the hoods for a change of position?

Seramount
04-24-2019, 06:06 PM
after experiencing excruciating pain at the base of my thumbs (combination of nerve and arthritis issues), I purchased some carpal tunnel gloves (have a metal stave across the palm).

has made a tremendous improvement in my ability to ride without altering the cockpit.

eddief
04-24-2019, 06:46 PM
always interested to learn new remedies.

after experiencing excruciating pain at the base of my thumbs (combination of nerve and arthritis issues), I purchased some carpal tunnel gloves (have a metal stave across the palm).

has made a tremendous improvement in my ability to ride without altering the cockpit.

charliedid
04-24-2019, 07:03 PM
with a tall headtube already and spacers and +10 stem. I am comfy enough in the drops but still prefer the tops. If it had a quill like in my older days I could go higher.

I hate doing this online but I think you should consider this....

1) Your bike is (maybe/probably) too big

2) Your bars are too high

3) Your pelvis is tucked under and you have too much weight on your butt

4) You are set up this way in order to attempt to take the weight off your hands due to pain. Getting higher seems the natural fix.

Road bikes (most) are not designed to fit this way. You need your weight on the pedals and the seat to some degree. When pedaling slowly your hands will feel weighted. When pedaling at a higher cadence you should feel your hands un-weight themselves as you load the pedals.

In your case you are not letting your body fall forward naturally, but instead sitting upright to try to reduce weight on hands. What you might be ( I think you are)
experiencing is that you are falling forward but are held higher than you should be and in effect bracing yourself against your bars adding even more weight to them.

I realize this is a bit of an unsolicited response, just trying to assist.

I say this with some hesitation not seeing you in person.

Does any of this ring true?

Hope you figure it out one way or another.

PS I feel I have had this convo before....have you seen a fitter to get a different perspective? It's not always the answer but with luck (and some research)it sometimes is.

Seramount
04-24-2019, 07:06 PM
always interested to learn new remedies.

https://www.amazon.com/FUTURO-48400EN-Energizing-Support-Wrists/dp/B009R64392/ref=pd_sim_121_1/140-8652983-6517863?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009R64392&pd_rd_r=d0910d3d-66ed-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_w=BpNLz&pd_rd_wg=GBCIg&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=1DQSR3WCZ6TY2DY9S9YP&psc=1&refRID=1DQSR3WCZ6TY2DY9S9YP

eddief
04-24-2019, 07:17 PM
I appreciate your input. I have been riding big and upright bikes for 20 years. That's what Grant Peterson told me to do :). For the most part I have been a happy camper over zillion cycling miles...until the thumbs. My big issue is the leverage required of my thumbs when shifting from the tops of the hoods and that is where I shift from 98% of the time.

Next move will be a new Di2 bike with the extra hood buttons programmed to shift up and down the rear cassette. No thumbs required!

But it has been a really long time since I have had a pro fit and I am considering doing that along with the new machine.

I hate doing this online but I think you should consider this....

1) Your bike is (maybe/probably) too big

2) Your bars are too high

3) Your pelvis is tucked under and you have too much weight on your butt

4) You are set up this way in order to attempt to take the weight off your hands due to pain. Getting higher seems the natural fix.

Road bikes (most) are not designed to fit this way. You need your weight on the pedals and the seat to some degree. When pedaling slowly your hands will feel weighted. When pedaling at a higher cadence you should feel your hands un-weight themselves as you load the pedals.

In your case you are not letting your body fall forward naturally, but instead sitting upright to try to reduce weight on hands. What you might be ( I think you are)
experiencing is that you are falling forward but are held higher than you should be and in effect bracing yourself against your bars adding even more weight to them.

I realize this is a bit of an unsolicited response, just trying to assist.

I say this with some hesitation not seeing you in person.

Does any of this ring true?

Hope you figure it out one way or another.

PS I feel I have had this convo before....have you seen a fitter to get a different perspective? It's not always the answer but with luck (and some research)it sometimes is.

rallizes
04-24-2019, 07:22 PM
can you post a picture of your bike?

Alaska Mike
04-24-2019, 07:22 PM
I'm a pretty average-sized American male as far as height and torso/leg length goes, but my palms are pretty wide and my fingers are pretty long. So, standard round bars usually end up with interesting nerve pressure points for me. Messing around with fit works to a degree, but the basic problem still remains.

My solution has been to go to "aero" flat top bars. Originally it was 3T Aeronovas, but the reach was a bit too long for me. Then it was older model Easton EC70s, but the drop shape was all wrong. The newer Easton EC70/90 Aeros and more recently the ENVE SES bars have been my go-tos- especially with the ENVEs. The flared drops are just the right angle for me and the transitions around the corners feel natural as I move from position to position.

Ain't cheap, but I was always told to invest in the contact points.

charliedid
04-24-2019, 07:32 PM
I appreciate your input. I have been riding big and upright bikes for 20 years. That's what Grant Peterson told me to do :). For the most part I have been a happy camper over zillion cycling miles...until the thumbs. My big issue is the leverage required of my thumbs when shifting from the tops of the hoods and that is where I shift from 98% of the time.

Next move will be a new Di2 bike with the extra hood buttons programmed to shift up and down the rear cassette. No thumbs required!

But it has been a really long time since I have had a pro fit and I am considering doing that along with the new machine.

:)

Well it's (possible) that the thumb pain is a result of that 20 year position and it's possible that it's not related. Have you seen an MD about it?

Spinner
04-24-2019, 07:35 PM
During the course of any ride, my hands are in multiple places on the bar. I generally ride with my palms on the ramps behind the hoods. I will move my hands closer to the stem to provide a comfort break. And, I will go to the drops for speed or when riding into the wind.

Last year I rode a friend's bike in the foothills and the mountains in and around Boulder. The bike I used was equipped with flat bars. On my first day of riding my hands were killing me as a result of a slight tip down of the saddle nose, which shifted my weight forward. The next day I adjusted the saddle so that it was essentially level with the ground; this made a huge difference in hand comfort.

Nonetheless, the flat bars offered no alternative hand positions and on extended rides, my mitts tired much more readily than on drop bars.

eddief
04-24-2019, 07:37 PM
yes oral drugs, topical gel drugs, cortisone shots. things are better that way. now i want to preserve as best i can with the right parts and the right fit.

:)

Well it's (possible) that the thumb pain is a result of that 20 year position and it's possible that it's not related. Have you seen an MD about it?

charliedid
04-24-2019, 08:04 PM
yes oral drugs, topical gel drugs, cortisone shots. things are better that way. now i want to preserve as best i can with the right parts and the right fit.

Good to hear.

parris
04-24-2019, 08:41 PM
How long have your thumbs been giving you trouble on the bike? Also you said that it's been years since you've had a fit. When you did get fit how in depth was it if you remember?

one60
04-24-2019, 08:56 PM
I would suggest you read David Kirk's article on his website that describes how to adjust saddle setback to alleviate supporting your upper body with you arms and hands. As someone else suggested lowering your seat a modest amount will place more weight of the pedals. Between these two simple adjustments, you should be able to find a more comfortable fit.

Its all a bit empirical but a worthwhile exercise.

(there was also the videos from the Harvard coach about weighting pedals...anyone have a link to those?)

eddief
04-24-2019, 09:16 PM
but Steve rex did one in about 30 minutes when he did my custom 12 years ago.


QUOTE=parris;2531965]How long have your thumbs been giving you trouble on the bike? Also you said that it's been years since you've had a fit. When you did get fit how in depth was it if you remember?[/QUOTE]

Alaska Mike
04-25-2019, 12:05 AM
I would suggest you read David Kirk's article on his website that describes how to adjust saddle setback to alleviate supporting your upper body with you arms and hands. As someone else suggested lowering your seat a modest amount will place more weight of the pedals. Between these two simple adjustments, you should be able to find a more comfortable fit.

Its all a bit empirical but a worthwhile exercise.


http://kirkframeworks.com/2009/06/19/riding-tip-3/

2metalhips
04-25-2019, 05:06 PM
but Steve rex did one in about 30 minutes when he did my custom 12 years ago.


QUOTE=parris;2531965]How long have your thumbs been giving you trouble on the bike? Also you said that it's been years since you've had a fit. When you did get fit how in depth was it if you remember?[/QUOTE]

Your body may have changed quite a bit in 12 years.

eddief
04-25-2019, 05:42 PM
svelter, more hair, more handsome. i wish i knew how to post photos.



Your body may have changed quite a bit in 12 years.[/QUOTE]

parris
04-25-2019, 05:59 PM
Eddie I KNOW my body has changed in not just the past 12 years... But the last 20+ years!!! As has my bike fit.

Due to weight and some injury my bar position has changed a fair amount and my saddle a little bit. I can also say that these days my early season to mid/late season fit changes as I drop weight, get stronger and more flexible.

NHAero
04-25-2019, 06:24 PM
I found this to be a good read, thanks for the link. I have saddles pushed forward on my bikes and I moved two of them back to try this out.

http://kirkframeworks.com/2009/06/19/riding-tip-3/