Track wheelset questions

[tbushnel]

I was planning to build up a set of wheels to be used for next track season. I have some Araya aero 4s sitting around and I was going to get some cheap high flange hubs to build them up with. By the way, I am just a recreational track rider so I likely do not push my equipment very hard.

Two questions came to mind. First, with the previous posts here about tying and soldering I thought this might be a good opportunity to give this technique a try. Having only read about it and not seen it, I was wondering if tying and soldering is something that is straightforward to learn on some spare spokes or is this best left to someone who has lots of experience doing it? I just don't want to crash and bring myself and others down just because of an amateur wheelbuilding job.

Second, for lateral stiffness would it be better to build the front wheel with radial spokes or with my usual 3x (32 hole rim/hubs) with tying and soldering?

Any advice for this amateur would be appreciated. :banana:
Cheers,
TEd.

[Jeremy]

Hi Ted,

Suzue high flange track hubs use a loose ball cup and cone sytem. They are OK, not great, but super cheap. Surly offers a nicer track hub that is still reasonably priced. The stiffest front wheel would be elbows out radial. Have fun with the tying and soddering if you want.

Cheers,

Jeremy

[11.4]

I don't think the question was about hub choice.

From the top:

First, the Araya Aero 4's are very narrow rims. They don't really seat properly a tire much more than 19 mm, at least not for track. And 19 mm is fairly narrow, especially on the tracks in the northwest. You can use them if you want (and they're good rims at heart) but do be aware of tire limitations. If the tire hangs over the sides a good bit, not only is there increased risk of pulling it off, but it also doesn't feel as stable while making hard dives on the banking.

Second, you'll get an entirely serviceable set of wheels with either radial or 3-cross front. Radial can be somewhat stiffer laterally but T&S will offset that difference. However, Northwest tracks are pretty rough on your arms and when you're in a paceline you'll notice everyone shaking their hands and arms out all the time because they go numb. You don't need an unduly stiff front wheel, and unless you're very aggressive on a steeper track like Alpenrose you won't feel any difference in the wheel.

Your rear should be 3-cross both sides. There's no significant dish on a track wheel so the primary rationale for non-drive radial lacing tends to disappear. Also, if you have two-sided fixed-fixed hubs, you don't want your drive side to become radial laced when you flip the wheel, of course. You could play around with other rear lacings (2-cross, 4-cross) but for recreational purposes you aren't likely to care, and 3-cross has the best resale value and is probably the best design.

Third, I'm a fan of tying-and-soldering spokes (especially for the track), but for what you describe here there's not much point in it. Also, you want to ride the wheels for a while before T&S, because you want the spokes and rims to settle in really well and work out any tendencies to go out of true or round. So start riding them and after a couple months into the season, perhaps do a T&S job over the weekend just for fun. It's a good place to learn how (inexpensive wheels, that is), and you won't do anything that'll cause a crash. About the worst you can mess up is to so overheat a spoke that it fails prematurely, and you sohould be able to avoid that completely. A broken spoke is basically no worse than a flat when it happens on the track.

[Jeremy]

Ted asked for advice. He said he was going to get some cheap track hubs. I suggested 2 inexpensive options to look for. He asked about lateral stiffness of the front wheel. I suggested that elbows out radial would be the stiffest (not necessarily the best). I assumed he was planning on building 32 cross 3 for the rear, as he only mentioned an optional lacing pattern for the front.

Cheers,

Jeremy

[tbushnel]

Good info all around. 11.4 thanks especially for the discussing my particular situation (NW tracks, recreational use). I may use FIR st120s instead of the Arayas to avoid the narrow tire limitation.
Cheers, and have a nice Sunday.
Ted.