Internal cable routing

[coreyaugustus]

Just finished routing rear brake and derailleur cables. I’m never doing that again. External routing for me from here on out.

[Ralph]

I believe Park has a tool for that now. A long wand with a strong magnet on end. Not sure how that would work so some frames.

[Jaybee]

The first time is the hardest. For all subsequent cable changes, just attach the new cable to the old one and pull thru.

[R3awak3n]

The first time is the hardest. For all subsequent cable changes, just attach the new cable to the old one and pull thru.

depends on the bike. On my open you cannot do this...

Internal routing sucks and that is that. And then when you add a press fit BB where you have to hammer out the BB in order to install new cables its even worst..

[Gummee]

depends on the bike. On my open you cannot do this...

This.

That's one big plus for Di2: no more cable and housing changes

M

[R3awak3n]

This.

That's one big plus for Di2: no more cable and housing changes

M

yes. My next system on the OPEN will be etap... I never want to deal with cables on that bike, what a nightmare.

[bikinchris]

Some internal routed cables are worse than others. Some companies really don't spend any time engineering the routes for the cables at all.

[coreyaugustus]

The first time is the hardest. For all subsequent cable changes, just attach the new cable to the old one and pull thru.

Yeah, if I have to do this again, I’ll make use of some plastic sheathing to trace where the cables go. GCN did a good video on hacks of internal routing. But odds are, I won’t be doing it again.

[steelbikerider]

I bought some Jagwire internal cable liners. When it is time for new cables I just slide the liner over the old cable until it pokes out the other side and slide the new cable in. Leave enough cable liner exposed to tape it to the frame with masking tape so it doesn't slide out when you're not looking.

[Idris Icabod]

I just routed hydraulic lines through a frame but then had to go the other direction to get them through the handlebars. They came prebled so I had to remove the mineral oil from the lines before running them. It was a huge pain in the arse but now I'm done I'm happy with the outcome. I used some choice words during though!

[Alaska Mike]

Internal routing sucks and that is that. And then when you add a press fit BB where you have to hammer out the BB in order to install new cables its even worst..

+ eleventy billion and a half.

[Mark McM]

As mentioned, some frames are better than others. I just recently cabled a Trek Emonda for the first time, and it only took a minute or two longer than an externally cable frame (with no special tools or techniques required).

[Jaybee]

Manufacturers are getting better about full internal sheathing for the cables. I re-did a friends 2019 Stumpy ST last week, and it was super easy. Maybe even easier than external. Push a hose/cable in, watch it pop out the correct hole on the other side.

[zmalwo]

depends on the bike. On my open you cannot do this...

Internal routing sucks and that is that. And then when you add a press fit BB where you have to hammer out the BB in order to install new cables its even worst..

oh gawd

[AdamSklar]

Internal routing makes it a lot harder to work on your bike, but it is also weaker, heavier and more expensive.

[asindc]

yes. My next system on the OPEN will be etap... I never want to deal with cables on that bike, what a nightmare.

It's one of the things I love about eTap. Plus you get a nice, clean look.

[benb]

Dreading doing my Domane but the downtube is the size of a Coke bottle and the stays are hollow and open, and it has an access port in the bottom of the BB so hopefully it won't be too bad.

I've put it off way too long.

[merlinmurph]

Internal cable routing is the work of the marketing crew. Yes, it looks nice and clean, but it is functionally useless and turns a simple mechanical procedure into an ordeal.

No thanks.

A year or two ago, Focus bicycles was sponsoring a pro team and asked the mechanics what they might want to see on the bike. #1 request was no internal routing.

[benb]

Surely it saves 0.001w at 45mph though right!

[dddd]

It's times when you find that you have to remove not only the cable you are replacing but the other shift cable as well since the cable port cover at the bottom bracket holds both cables.

So a simple job becomes a bigger job.

And forget about re-installing an internally-routed cable after it has been installed and cut, it's usually too hard to re-route unless it's arrow-straight.

Each bike is different though, and some manage to be easier, such as by flipping/rolling the port cover over unstead of pulling it out on some models.
And testing the cables for being twisted inside of the downtube is as easy as tugging on one while tensioning the other with your hands.
It all gets easier with time as long as you do it frequently enough.

I've had some bikes where the shift cable just ended up feeling too springy in tension due to the cable bending over the guide features in the frame, where a thinner 1.1mm cable was what it took to result in snappy shifting action in both directions.

Things to have handy are a pen light, a small wire hook and patience.

The thin plastic sleeving is also handy but only where port covers are removable or where perhaps the hole in the port cover is big enough for the sleeve. And one needs to know when/if the port covers are removable when that is the designed-in way to route the cable.

And never drink while working with internal cables!

[coreyaugustus]

And never drink while working with internal cables!

I was with you until there. I found that a couple pints kept me from tossing the frame out the window.

[batman1425]

One other trick that can sometimes help if the park magnet style routing tool doesn't work.

Tape up all the ports except the the 2 you are routing through. Grab a spool of thread or thin strong cord and a vacuum. Put the vacuum at the exit port and feed line through the input, attach your housing and pull.

Might have to add some plugs to other areas dropouts, around the BB, seat tube, etc. to get a good seal, but I've seen this work well on frames that have internal structures or restrictions around the input/output ports that make even the magnet approach difficult.

[nooneline]

One other trick that can sometimes help if the park magnet style routing tool doesn't work.

Tape up all the ports except the the 2 you are routing through. Grab a spool of thread or thin strong cord and a vacuum. Put the vacuum at the exit port and feed line through the input, attach your housing and pull.

Might have to add some plugs to other areas dropouts, around the BB, seat tube, etc. to get a good seal, but I've seen this work well on frames that have internal structures or restrictions around the input/output ports that make even the magnet approach difficult.

I found that the vacuum approach didn't work particularly well for me, but what worked was tying a small nut (like round one that nobody uses on their presta valves) to some dental floss or thread, and dropping that down. The nut adds some weight and noise, so it's easy enough to turn the bike here and there to route it toward your exit.

Once you've got the thread sticking out both your entrance and exit, tie it well to your housing and pull through.

[MikeD]

My bike has internally routed cables, but they use full length housing. Probably easy to replace but heavier.

Recabling my son's older Trek Madone was an exercise in frustration.

[benb]

This thread is starting to remind me of dropping guitar picks into the body of an acoustic guitar. :crap:

At least when you're working on cables you probably don't have an audience.

[zap]

My bike has internally routed cables, but they use full length housing. Probably easy to replace but heavier.

Recabling my son's older Trek Madone was an exercise in frustration.

Re-cabling a Trek (and many other frames) is pretty straight forward if you install cables liners prior to removing old cables.

[BikeNY]

Internal routing makes it a lot harder to work on your bike, but it is also weaker, heavier and more expensive.

This!

[MikeD]

Re-cabling a Trek (and many other frames) is pretty straight forward if you install cables liners prior to removing old cables.



Tried that. There was too much friction between the cable liner and the cable to make that work. Maybe if I would have sprayed silicone spray inside the liner first, it would have worked better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Mark McM]

Re-cabling a Trek (and many other frames) is pretty straight forward if you install cables liners prior to removing old cables.

I have 3 frames with internal cable routing (2 Cervelos and Trek), and I find that routing the cable/housings under the handlebar tape is a bigger time consumer than threading the cables through the frame. The Trek is especially easy - it takes an extra few minutes compared to external routing, and requires no extra tools. I've also got 2 handlebars with internal cable routing, and these are the biggest pain of all when it comes to cable installation. (All cables are mechanical).

Also of note is that I use sealed cable systems, in which the cables use a continuous liner, so the cable and liner are pre-assembled when threading he cable.

[Vientomas]

I just changed out the shifter cables on my Sarto. Originally, I had the rear shifter cable entering the downtube port on the drive side...front shifter cable on non-drive side. It was a bit of a pain to get the cables through. I had to removed the little door at under the bottom bracket and fish them out.

Just for fun, this time I ran the cables the opposite way. The cables fed right through the downtube and out the little holes on the door under the bottom bracket with no difficulty at all. I had not even removed the little door. I was shocked! Perhaps there is an internal sleeve of sorts?

Anyway, it was super easy this time.

[dddd]

I just changed out the shifter cables on my Sarto. Originally, I had the rear shifter cable entering the downtube port on the drive side...front shifter cable on non-drive side. It was a bit of a pain to get the cables through. I had to removed the little door at under the bottom bracket and fish them out.

Just for fun, this time I ran the cables the opposite way. The cables fed right through the downtube and out the little holes on the door under the bottom bracket with no difficulty at all. I had not even removed the little door. I was shocked! Perhaps there is an internal sleeve of sorts?

Anyway, it was super easy this time.

I worked on a Giant today and got a little help from a lady friend who was watching me repeatedly doing the back and forth trying to get the cable to come out of the bottom bracket in the right groove position (with trap-door in place). She walked over, said "let me try", and boom I think she got it on like the second go.
Anyway, helps to have help sometimes, and the Giant guide door thing under the bb can be left in place as you feed the cable in down through the downtube with the bike upright.
I think it also helps to tilt the bike left or right in order to steer the cable's trajectory, that's what she did.
One more thing is to use a new, straight cable with welded tip, since feeding in a used/cut cable doesn't usually go well.

[zap]

Tried that. There was too much friction between the cable liner and the cable to make that work. Maybe if I would have sprayed silicone spray inside the liner first, it would have worked better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cable liners come in various sizes. I have 4/5 different sizes from "sealed" cable kits I've collected over the years.

[vespasianus]

So another stupid question from the new guy but are the cables just unsheathed (bare metal) inside the frame? I got a new frame and was looking at the routing and it looks like the rear derailleur cable goes internal, stays internal through the bottom bracket, goes through the chain stays and comes out right in front of the rear derailleur. But honestly, it looks like the cable would eventually slice through the bottom bracket shell. I must be missing something...

[kppolich]

Just finished routing rear brake and derailleur cables. I’m never doing that again. External routing for me from here on out.

Hopefully you ran full housing. Do it once, do it right and now the new cable will run worry free, protected in your frame and in a housing.

[gibbo]

External for the win, easy to work on and I actually prefer being able to see the cable. On my previous bike (Cervelo R3) I had internal cables and when they rattled going over a bump on occasion my blood pressure would spike! I HATE rattles when I ride!! lol

[Robot870]

External for me! Nice a simple the way a bike should be!

[vespasianus]

So another stupid question from the new guy but are the cables just unsheathed (bare metal) inside the frame? I got a new frame and was looking at the routing and it looks like the rear derailleur cable goes internal, stays internal through the bottom bracket, goes through the chain stays and comes out right in front of the rear derailleur. But honestly, it looks like the cable would eventually slice through the bottom bracket shell. I must be missing something...

I figured it out. I did not see the little hole right before the BB shell that takes the cable below the BB before bringing the rear derailleur cable back inside towards the rear mech. Now seems straightforward.

[oldpotatoe]

So another stupid question from the new guy but are the cables just unsheathed (bare metal) inside the frame? I got a new frame and was looking at the routing and it looks like the rear derailleur cable goes internal, stays internal through the bottom bracket, goes through the chain stays and comes out right in front of the rear derailleur. But honestly, it looks like the cable would eventually slice through the bottom bracket shell. I must be missing something...

Probably some sort of guide for when it makes turns, as in below your BB shell.
OR, there is a full length tube for it, hopefully it's included...

BUT why internal? Cuz it's cheaper to make a hole rather than a cable stop somewhere..probably stronger also on some carbon frames..trying to glue on a stop..

[vespasianus]

Probably some sort of guide for when it makes turns, as in below your BB shell.
OR, there is a full length tube for it, hopefully it's included...

BUT why internal? Cuz it's cheaper to make a hole rather than a cable stop somewhere..probably stronger also on some carbon frames..trying to glue on a stop..

Need to get some tubing and route it before I do the cable work. Ddi some tests and should not be too difficult.

The other thing I never really thought about is that these carbon frame with internal routing have lots of holes in them!

[Gummee]

I worked on a Giant today and got a little help from a lady friend who was watching me repeatedly doing the back and forth trying to get the cable to come out of the bottom bracket in the right groove position (with trap-door in place). She walked over, said "let me try", and boom I think she got it on like the second go.
Anyway, helps to have help sometimes, and the Giant guide door thing under the bb can be left in place as you feed the cable in down through the downtube with the bike upright.
I think it also helps to tilt the bike left or right in order to steer the cable's trajectory, that's what she did.
One more thing is to use a new, straight cable with welded tip, since feeding in a used/cut cable doesn't usually go well.

So there I was.... replacing the cables and housing on a Madone. All was going well till I got to the TT cable stop for the brake. Bolt was stripped. Grrr

Got everything ready to fish thru the TT and BAM! went thru the first time perfectly.

Then I looked down and noticed I'd forgotten to put a ferrule on the housing and had to take the cable back out.

For a really brief moment I was tempted...

Took another 2 hours of cussing, hanging the bike by the front wheel, and fiddling about to get it thru the 2nd time.

All because the guy before me stripped that 2mm allen bolt holding the cable stop on. Being in a van, I don't have access to everything I had in a brick and mortar shop. That reminds me... The van needs to buy another drill.

Otherwise, the re-cabling went pretty smoothly overall.

M

[C40_guy]

This thread is starting to remind me of dropping guitar picks into the body of an acoustic guitar. :crap:

At least when you're working on cables you probably don't have an audience.

That's why you always tuck a spare in your hat liner.

Pause, take off your hat, remove said pick, and get on with the show...almost like it *was* part of the show. :)