1X Gravel gearing: what works for you?

[XXtwindad]

Finishing up the components on my gravel steed. Lots of very steep hills/paved climbs. Looks like I'll have a (SRAM) 38t in front and a 10-42 in back.

Toyed with going 40t up front with an Eagle 10-50 in back. What are others using and how do you like it?

[doomridesout]

I use two 1x systems with a special changing mechanism... works great.

I don't get 1x for gravel road riding. You can pedal the whole time just as you would on a road ride, why wouldn't you want narrower jumps in gears? Gravel roads are just roads.

Cross and MTB, 1x makes sense, lots of rhythm changes, and you're concentrating on handling the bike more.

Seriously, only you know what works for your terrain. Anywhere there are mountains I want two chainrings.

[weaponsgrade]

I like the 1x for mtn and use a 32T/11-42. But I also like the 2x for road and gravel. I'm working on a gravel build and thinking about the new Easton EA90 alloy crank in a 30/46T with an 11-34T cassette.

[fogrider]

I was running a 1x with a 42 11x34 cassette and it was pretty good except for the really steep stuff. I just got a 38 chainring and will see how it works. The 42x11 was good for about 33 mph, then I spin out..great for the descents. Not sure what a 38 will be good for but it should be able to get me up the steep climbs in the sf bay area...

[TiminVA]

My 1X setup is 40 up front and a 11-42. I don't think I've ever used the 42, but it's nice knowing that it's there. I'm torn about 1X though. For exclusive gravel riding it's great, the gravel roads around here are constantly changing in pitch never a consistent grade so the jumps between cogs isn't a big deal. The problem is a 50 mile "gravel" ride will have 25ish miles of pavement. It's then the big jump between cogs is an issue.

[GonaSovereign]

I switched back to 2x on my CX bike when I use it for gravel events. The wider range and smaller steps between gears is hugely helpful.

[sparky33]

I'll ride gravel events with about 28-105 gear inches having reasonable steps, like 40 x 11-40.

For close to home gravel a tighter 11-32 is good because the are more road transfers and few significant hills.

[MattMay]

I was running a 40T and 10-42 X01 cassette until I did a gravel race that had 3.5 mile climb up a mountain bike trail that averages 12%...was back in January and I hadn’t been riding much due to weather but really needed a bailout gear. Recently swapped in a Wolftooth 46 cog for the 42 cog, which is removable/replaceable. No change in chain length, just a b screw adjustment. Essentially the equivalent of putting a 37T ring in front, but without losing the top end and rest of my gearing, which I like. Now I’m more comfortable on the mtb long steeps.

[GregL]

Here in hilly CNY, the best 1X system (for gravel roads) is a 2X system. 46/34 in front, 11-32 or 11-34 in back depending on the length and gradient of the hills. I can see 1X for cyclocross, but it just doesn't work for me on hilly gravel roads.

Greg

[chrismoustache]

40 up front, 12-36 in the back.

works for almost all the stuff i hit unless i'm loaded down with a bunch of groceries or something.

[oldpotatoe]

here in hilly cny, the best 1x system (for gravel roads) is a 2x system. 46/34 in front, 11-32 or 11-34 in back depending on the length and gradient of the hills. I can see 1x for cyclocross, but it just doesn't work for me on hilly gravel roads.

Greg

potm..:)

[Lewis Moon]

I switched back to 2x on my CX bike when I use it for gravel events. The wider range and smaller steps between gears is hugely helpful.
Yep. Anyplace where you can pedal smoothly and consistently goes better with more gears.
The curmudgeon in me thinks 1X for road is right up there with road discs. The only need it fills is the industry's need for more money.

[R3awak3n]

Look guys, I don't like 1X either, it is just not for me and where I ride BUT lets be honest, OP wants and has 2x, you really think you going to change his mind. Oh, this guy on an internet forum says my gear choice is bad, let me go spend $1000 to change it.

I have no experience with 1X, I think it works for some people, maybe it would even work for me but from ridding what I have I am happy so I am not willing to change. However when I briefly though about it I would like to have gears that are 1 step less than 1:1 so I would probably keep what you have. However, 38 would not give me the low end I want so I may have done 40 in front, depends on how much non gravel you are doing really

[XXtwindad]

Really interesting responses thus far. I didn't realize there's a significant contingency that really dislikes the 1X system. All good. Here's my take on it (coming from a MTB background): I'll take it. Along with disc brakes and wider tires. For me, it boils down to one word: comfort.

Cycling is my zen. I'm a bigger guy (200 lbs) and, at 50, really don't care about making the best Strava times. So, the way I interpret the latest road biking "innovations" is that they will make cycling easier - and hence more enjoyable for me. And they often do. The smallest cassette I'll ever run is an 11-34. If I felt that my new wheels weren't too narrow, I'd throw a Compass Bon Jon Pass on them, for everyday road riding.

I remember several years ago, I used my Ti MTB (with a rigid fork) in a 60 mile fondo. Weighed in at just under 20 lbs. 30t paired with a 10-42 in back. There was a wicked two mile ascent with an average grade of almost 10 percent.

For the majority of it, I was cruising along with a guy in the midst of a major sufferfest. He had a 53/39 up front and an 11-25 in back (I asked) Old school set-up on a carbon whippet. He looked miserable. Of course, he kicked my ass on the flats, and I had to cruise on the descents with a 30t, but I really liked climbing that hill.

I'll take the occasional jumps in gearing in favor of a more enjoyable ride.

[BikeNY]

Really interesting responses thus far. I didn't realize there's a significant contingency that really dislikes the 1X system. All good. Here's my take on it (coming from a MTB background): I'll take it. Along with disc brakes and wider tires. For me, it boils down to one word: comfort.

Cycling is my zen. I'm a bigger guy (200 lbs) and, at 50, really don't care about making the best Strava times. So, the way I interpret the latest road biking "innovations" is that they will make cycling easier - and hence more enjoyable for me. And they often do. The smallest cassette I'll ever run is an 11-34. If I felt that my new wheels weren't too narrow, I'd throw a Compass Bon Jon Pass on them, for everyday road riding.

I remember several years ago, I used my Ti MTB (with a rigid fork) in a 60 mile fondo. Weighed in at just under 20 lbs. 30t paired with a 10-42 in back. There was a wicked two mile ascent with an average grade of almost 10 percent.

For the majority of it, I was cruising along with a guy in the midst of a major sufferfest. He had a 53/39 up front and an 11-25 in back (I asked) Old school set-up on a carbon whippet. He looked miserable. Of course, he kicked my ass on the flats, and I had to cruise on the descents with a 30t, but I really liked climbing that hill.

I'll take the occasional jumps in gearing in favor of a more enjoyable ride.

I'm coming from a similar place as far as background and goals, so I build up my latest 'Allroad' bike with 1x gearing. I've got a 36t in the front and an 11-46t cassette in the back. Yes, gear jumps are a bit larger than is ideal, so I'll slow down or speed up a bit if needed. I really like having the low gear to comfortably spin up the steep stuff when needed, and don't miss the top end at all. If I'm going over 25 MPH, I'm coasting! On another note, I'm really enjoying my Schwlabe G-One 650x2.35 tires!

[XXtwindad]

I'm coming from a similar place as far as background and goals, so I build up my latest 'Allroad' bike with 1x gearing. I've got a 36t in the front and an 11-46t cassette in the back. Yes, gear jumps are a bit larger than is ideal, so I'll slow down or speed up a bit if needed. I really like having the low gear to comfortably spin up the steep stuff when needed, and don't miss the top end at all. If I'm going over 25 MPH, I'm coasting! On another note, I'm really enjoying my Schwlabe G-One 650x2.35 tires!

That sounds like an ideal set-up. Maybe a 38t in front. You're using Shimano, I assume? Sounds like an XT cassette. I would've preferred Shimano (and asked about it on the Forum) but it all sounded to complicated. And I like simple.

Another reason for the 1X

[HTupolev]

For the majority of it, I was cruising along with a guy in the midst of a major sufferfest. He had a 53/39 up front and an 11-25 in back (I asked) Old school set-up on a carbon whippet. He looked miserable. Of course, he kicked my ass on the flats, and I had to cruise on the descents with a 30t, but I really liked climbing that hill.

I'll take the occasional jumps in gearing in favor of a more enjoyable ride.
Not that I think you're wrong to use 1x, but I don't see what someone using a 2x system that's too highly-geared has to do with that. If I built a 2x system for mountainous gravel riding, it wouldn't be 53-39 11-25, but probably something more like 42-26 11-30 or thereabouts.

[Jaybee]

FWIW, there is no reason you can't run a Shimano 11 sp cassette with your otherwise SRAM 11sp setup. Just pick the cogs that work for you. I do the opposite, running a SRAM 11-36 on an otherwise Shimano setup.

[XXtwindad]

Not that I think you're wrong to use 1x, but I don't see what someone using a 2x system that's too highly-geared has to do with that. If I built a 2x system for mountainous gravel riding, it wouldn't be 53-39 11-25, but probably something more like 42-26 11-30 or thereabouts.

The Fondo I was referring to was on pavement exclusively. That experience sold me on a 1X with a larger cassette. And to avoid using a flat bar for extended road riding. :)

[HTupolev]

The Fondo I was referring to was on pavement exclusively.
I still don't see your reasoning. If someone is bottomed out in a 39-25, the reason they're miserable is that their gearing is too high, not that they have two chainrings.

[XXtwindad]

FWIW, there is no reason you can't run a Shimano 11 sp cassette with your otherwise SRAM 11sp setup. Just pick the cogs that work for you. I do the opposite, running a SRAM 11-36 on an otherwise Shimano setup.

Really? A Shimano cassette is compatible with a SRAM Force derailleur? I didn't know that. If I can run an XT (or XTR) 11-46 with a Force derailleur that would solve a bunch of things ...

[XXtwindad]

I still don't see your reasoning. If someone is bottomed out in a 39-25, the reason they're miserable is that their gearing is too high, not that they have two chainrings.

You're correct. He was overgeared. My spell-check just suggested "overheated." And he was that, also. As I said, the smallest cassette I'll run is an 11-34, and, even for pure road rides, I like something bigger.

[Jaybee]

Really? A Shimano cassette is compatible with a SRAM Force derailleur? I didn't know that. If I can run an XT (or XTR) 11-46 with a Force derailleur that would solve a bunch of things ...

Yeah, the cog-cog spacing is so close between the various manufacturers on 11 speed that anyone's cassette will work on anyone else's shifter/derailleur combo. Even Campy, but they don't make cassettes large enough for your application. Also, the SRAM 10-42 requires an XD freehub driver, which can limit hub choice.

Shimano 11-46 cassettes have a nasty jump from 37 to 46 on the last two cogs. This might be fine if you want tighter spacing on the bottom 9 cogs (11-32) but if you're looking for a smoother transition to the bailout gears, Sunrace 11 speed cassettes go 36-40-46 across the top, at the price of bigger jumps in the middle of the range.

[XXtwindad]

Yeah, the cog-cog spacing is so close between the various manufacturers on 11 speed that anyone's cassette will work on anyone else's shifter/derailleur combo. Even Campy, but they don't make cassettes large enough for your application. Also, the SRAM 10-42 requires an XD freehub driver, which can limit hub choice.

Shimano 11-46 cassettes have a nasty jump from 37 to 46 on the last two cogs. This might be fine if you want tighter spacing on the bottom 9 cogs (11-32) but if you're looking for a smoother transition to the bailout gears, Sunrace 11 speed cassettes go 36-40-46 across the top, at the price of bigger jumps in the middle of the range.

Good to know. Thx. e*13 makes a 9-44 that might work as well, then...
Just checked the SRAM site. The "official" capacity of the Force derailleur is a 42t. But other people on the Forum have had success with an 11-40 Shimano cassette with a GS 8050 derailleur. Don't know if you can push the limits with SRAM the same way ...

[BikeNY]

That sounds like an ideal set-up. Maybe a 38t in front. You're using Shimano, I assume? Sounds like an XT cassette. I would've preferred Shimano (and asked about it on the Forum) but it all sounded to complicated. And I like simple.

Another reason for the 1X

I am not using anything Shimano on this setup actually. As noted by somebody else, with 11 speed, you can pretty much mix and match to your heart desire.

I'm using the already mentioned Sunrace 11-46t cassette for the exact reason mentioned, better jumps between the biggest cogs. I'm actually using an SRAM Etap WiFli rear derailleur(with a WT Roadlink) for shifting duties, works great!

[Spdntrxi]

Currently I am 40 front 10-44 back

Toying with idea of 9-46 out back ... and having another more road setup which 46 front 11-40

[John H.]

E Thirteen just released a bunch more sizes in their 11 speed cassettes.
In addition to the 9-46, they also not have 9-34, 9-39, and 9-42

[XXtwindad]

E Thirteen just released a bunch more sizes in their 11 speed cassettes.
In addition to the 9-46, they also not have 9-34, 9-39, and 9-42

Really intrigued by that 9-42. I thinks it's a ten speed, though.

[John H.]

Nope- 11 speed according to their site and the email I received this morning.
https://bythehive.com/products/xcx-plus-11-speed-cassette


Really intrigued by that 9-42. I thinks it's a ten speed, though.

[XXtwindad]

Nope- 11 speed according to their site and the email I received this morning.
https://bythehive.com/products/xcx-plus-11-speed-cassette

You're right! Good find!

[livesadventure]

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary


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[John H.]

You could go to a smaller front chainring?

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary


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[livesadventure]

You could go to a smaller front chainring?


I likely will, though I’m also holding off to see if I can swing a force x eagle x01 axs group




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[XXtwindad]

I likely will, though I’m also holding off to see if I can swing a force x eagle x01 axs group




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Hey Luc,

I was thinking the same thing, but my local mech said the Eagle group is only compatible with MTB shifters. Internet research seems to suggest it can be done, so I don't know ...

[MattMay]

I’m running 40t with a 10x42. Some climbs in the headlands and on tam are hard work with that gearing. A 46 in the rear would be ideal, though I don’t think the 9 is necessary


For that exact reason...and I had the exact gearing...I replaced the 42 cog on my X01 cassette with a 46 Wolftooth cog because for the mtb trails I often ride I need a bailout gear sometimes.

If you have a SRAM 10-42, it’s like a 3-minute job to swap cogs. Screwdriver to remove the old and pliers to replace with the new. And they have different colors...added benefit if you want some bling, and way cheaper than replacing the entire cassette.

Adding the 46 did not require any chain adjustment, just a b screw adjustment.

[XXtwindad]

For that exact reason...and I had the exact gearing...I replaced the 42 cog on my X01 cassette with a 46 Wolftooth cog because for the mtb trails I often ride I need a bailout gear sometimes.

If you have a SRAM 10-42, it’s like a 3-minute job to swap cogs. Screwdriver to remove the old and pliers to replace with the new. And they have different colors...added benefit if you want some bling, and way cheaper than replacing the entire cassette.

Adding the 46 did not require any chain adjustment, just a b screw adjustment.

Matt -

Thanks for the info. Would you give your complete set-up (derailleur, crankset, shifters, cassette, etc.) Much appreciated.

[Mzilliox]

I use 42 front. That gets me up 25percent grades. 1 to 1 is pretty reasonable for difficult climbs. I think 38 in front should be plenty

[Mzilliox]

Look guys, I don't like 1X either, it is just not for me and where I ride BUT lets be honest, OP wants and has 2x, you really think you going to change his mind. Oh, this guy on an internet forum says my gear choice is bad, let me go spend $1000 to change it.

I have no experience with 1X, I think it works for some people, maybe it would even work for me but from ridding what I have I am happy so I am not willing to change. However when I briefly though about it I would like to have gears that are 1 step less than 1:1 so I would probably keep what you have. However, 38 would not give me the low end I want so I may have done 40 in front, depends on how much non gravel you are doing really
Exactly. 1x is super fun on gravel. And that clutched rd lets me descend fast. Yeah. 2x works, but you get a bunch of useless gears and more chain drops. Plus when i crash theres less to mess up. You cats who discount 1x on gravel confuse me. Its gravel, who needs close steps?

[tbmurd]

Anyone tried the e*thirteen 9-42 for a little extra on the top?

[tbmurd]

Actually - bigger question is whether that little cog works ok on that cassette

[gdw]

Bigger question... how long will it last if you actually use it often?

[tbmurd]

Good point!

[AngryScientist]

i think the best approach is to decide how low of a gear you need, convert it to gear inches and start there.

for example, on my gravel bike(s), i have 30f/32r as the lowest gear. this yields 25.4 gear inches. that is comfortable for me to climb the things i have encountered, so that's what i would want to stick with on the low end.

then, determine how fast you reasonably need to go on the top end. for example, if i'm on my gravel bike going over 25 mph, i'm coasting, and dont need any more top end gearing.

so, with a reasonably available cassette stack, say 11-42, with a 38t ring, that get's me just a little lower than my 30/32 and at the top end, 38/11 gets me almost to the 46/13 area, which is plenty on the top end for me.

that's the basic analysis i did to determine the gear stack i would start with, which is a sensible approach i think.

that said, i think the best way to see if you like 1x and if your body and cadence will tolerate/appreciate it is to just try it and see.

[XXtwindad]

Anyone tried the e*thirteen 9-42 for a little extra on the top?

I used a e*13 9-44 on an MTB a few years back and thought it was great. A little heavier than the XX1 stuff, but on road and gravel the top end would come in really handy, allowing you to run a smaller ring up front. I think the 9-42 sounds like a great solution.

[XXtwindad]

i think the best approach is to decide how low of a gear you need, convert it to gear inches and start there.

for example, on my gravel bike(s), i have 30f/32r as the lowest gear. this yields 25.4 gear inches. that is comfortable for me to climb the things i have encountered, so that's what i would want to stick with on the low end.

then, determine how fast you reasonably need to go on the top end. for example, if i'm on my gravel bike going over 25 mph, i'm coasting, and dont need any more top end gearing.

so, with a reasonably available cassette stack, say 11-42, with a 38t ring, that get's me just a little lower than my 30/32 and at the top end, 38/11 gets me almost to the 46/13 area, which is plenty on the top end for me.

that's the basic analysis i did to determine the gear stack i would start with, which is a sensible approach i think.

that said, i think the best way to see if you like 1x and if your body and cadence will tolerate/appreciate it is to just try it and see.

There are other factors, as well. For example, if I recall correctly, you've got more of the "classic cyclist" build, and I go 200lbs. With 15% grade dirt (and asphalt), even with the smaller ring, riding a 32 cassette in the back would be miserable.

I like to think of the advent of new technology as "comfort" bikes, rather than "gravel" or "disc" bikes.

[livesadventure]

Hey Luc,



I was thinking the same thing, but my local mech said the Eagle group is only compatible with MTB shifters. Internet research seems to suggest it can be done, so I don't know ...


Axs is the new etap, where the road and mtn are completely compatible. Right now you can’t buy the road and mtn shifters and derailleurs separately however


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[MattMay]

Matt -



Thanks for the info. Would you give your complete set-up (derailleur, crankset, shifters, cassette, etc.) Much appreciated.



Sure thing. I have a 3T Exploro LTD Flat
Mount frameset.

SRAM Force one 1x brakes and shifters
Easton EC 90 SL direct mount Carbon cranks, 172.5mm
Easton cinch chainring, 40T
SRAM Force one tear derailleur
SRAM X01 10-42 cassette, 42 cog replaced with Wolftooth 46
Shimano Ice Tec center lock rotors, 160mm
KMC 11-speed chain

I have two wheel sets:

Ridefast Hotwires Carbon hoops, 23mm internal width, I9 Torch road hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes. WTB Resolute tires, tubeless 42mm

Light Bicycle Carbon hoops, 21mm internal width, I9 Torch road hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, WTB Exposire tires, tubeless, 30mm

Older shot w different tires:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/60c89ad655eab58e88ade9c0d9eccab7.jpg

Close up of cassette and rear derailleur:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/a98b1b8bd00de2d001480dbf1cf63906.jpg

[XXtwindad]

Sure thing. I have a 3T Exploro LTD Flat
Mount frameset.

SRAM Force one 1x brakes and shifters
Easton EC 90 SL direct mount Carbon cranks, 172.5mm
Easton cinch chainring, 40T
SRAM Force one tear derailleur
SRAM X01 10-42 cassette, 42 cog replaced with Wolftooth 46
Shimano Ice Tec center lock rotors, 160mm
KMC 11-speed chain

I have two wheel sets:

Ridefast Hotwires Carbon hoops, 23mm internal width, I9 Torch road hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes. WTB Resolute tires, tubeless 42mm

Light Bicycle Carbon hoops, 21mm internal width, I9 Torch road hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, WTB Exposire tires, tubeless, 30mm

Older shot w different tires:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/60c89ad655eab58e88ade9c0d9eccab7.jpg

Close up of cassette and rear derailleur:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190414/a98b1b8bd00de2d001480dbf1cf63906.jpg

Brilliant. All praise Wolftooth. On another note, that's the best 3T paint scheme I've seen...

[MattMay]

Thx! So I used some gold auto vinyl wrap and had some vinyl letters printed to bling the frame because it was so boring.

[spiderman]

Finishing up the components on my gravel steed. Lots of very steep hills/paved climbs. Looks like I'll have a (SRAM) 38t in front and a 10-42 in back.

Toyed with going 40t up front with an Eagle 10-50 in back. What are others using and how do you like it?

I have a 1-2 mile, 15-20% washed out gravel climb
One mile from my house...three years into it
I am going with the Eagle 🦅 drivetrain you mention
And plan to tackle it again Wednesday...

[Mzilliox]

Actually - bigger question is whether that little cog works ok on that cassette

The little cogs like 10 work fine. Its one less tooth. Cross chaining and hard shifts are worse

[XXtwindad]

I have a 1-2 mile, 15-20% washed out gravel climb
One mile from my house...three years into it
I am going with the Eagle 🦅 drivetrain you mention
And plan to tackle it again Wednesday...

Hey Spider -

Are you doing that on your MTB or gravel bike?

[spiderman]

Hey Spider -

Are you doing that on your MTB or gravel bike?
It’s going on my new MB
...but I’m going to convert my gravel
Kirk to similar gearing...