Stripping Nipples

[bobin2]

I got some brass nips from the bike shop for 2.0/1.8 DT comp spokes. I was going to replace the rim on my back wheel. I have some old Wheelsmith spoke prep lying around so here's what I did...

Loosened all spokes down the threads. I laid the new rim on top of the old rim. Went around and moved each spoke to new rim with new nipple.

I think where I might have gone wrong is: I used a small paint brush to apply the spoke prep and didn't let it dry before screwing the nipple on. Cause now when I go to tighten beyond 20/122 it's too hard to turn the nips - and I end up stripping them with the black wrench.

I at first thought it was bad nips - so went to LBS and got new nips and went around and replaced all nips.

I can't think of any other reason why they'd be so hard to turn... anyone got any ideas? Could it really be not allowing spoke prep to completely dry?

[Mikej]

Best name for something ever-Stripping Nipples

[cmbicycles]

Spoke prep has nothing to do with your issues. Are the spokes the right length? Is your spoke wrench a poorly made one, or simply worn out? I assume you replaced with an identical rim, but that wasn't specified.

[m_sasso]

My likely idea is: Did you lubricate the spoke holes of the new rim before you rebuilt the wheel? Are the nipples now binding in the spoke holes?

[Hindmost]

I can't think of any other reason why they'd be so hard to turn... anyone got any ideas? Could it really be not allowing spoke prep to completely dry?

I think you may be on to your problem. I remember watching Ric applying spoke prep, he would dip the spoke thread ends, dab off the ends and then lay the spokes down to thoroughly dry.

Spoke prep is not used like a threadlocker. Rather when when applied sparingly and dried to create a minor interference in thread fit.

[bobin2]

My likely idea is: Did you lubricate the spoke holes of the new rim before you rebuilt the wheel? Are the nipples now binding in the spoke holes?

Argh - I forgot about applying a little lube to the spoke holes.

[bobin2]

Spoke prep has nothing to do with your issues. Are the spokes the right length? Is your spoke wrench a poorly made one, or simply worn out? I assume you replaced with an identical rim, but that wasn't specified.

Yep identical rim. I 'think' the spokes are good length - wheel was built by an LBS and ridden for three years until I hit big pot hole and bent rim a bit.

[oldpotatoe]

I got some brass nips from the bike shop for 2.0/1.8 DT comp spokes. I was going to replace the rim on my back wheel. I have some old Wheelsmith spoke prep lying around so here's what I did...

Loosened all spokes down the threads. I laid the new rim on top of the old rim. Went around and moved each spoke to new rim with new nipple.

I think where I might have gone wrong is: I used a small paint brush to apply the spoke prep and didn't let it dry before screwing the nipple on. Cause now when I go to tighten beyond 20/122 it's too hard to turn the nips - and I end up stripping them with the black wrench.

I at first thought it was bad nips - so went to LBS and got new nips and went around and replaced all nips.

I can't think of any other reason why they'd be so hard to turn... anyone got any ideas? Could it really be not allowing spoke prep to completely dry?

Use boiled indseed oil between nipp and spoke..:) and Mobil One between nipp and rim...

[bobin2]

Looks like my problem is somehow the spoke angle one some is off - so that the nipple is coming out in such a way as to rub against the side of the hole...

Should I just bite the bullet and get new spokes and start over?https://i.ibb.co/Ms2WZwx/IMG-1359.jpg

[Hindmost]

Spokes are cheap. If you think some have been compromised might be best just to replace them all, start fresh.

[ultraman6970]

If the nipple is off, you can file the hole and add a washer, that should correct the problem, or at least better...

[fmradio516]

Are you slowly going around the wheel and tightening the nipples evenly little by little, bringing them all up to tension at the same time? I could imagine if youre just bringing over one spoke at a time, trying to tighten it up, its gonna be pretty tough to do that without the help of the neighbor spokes pulling the rim straight.

[ryker]

Looks like my problem is somehow the spoke angle one some is off - so that the nipple is coming out in such a way as to rub against the side of the hole...

Are the spokes leaving the rim for the correct flange? Spoke holes may be directionally drilled, half one way and half another. The "direction" is pointing towards a specific flange.

[charliedid]

Best name for something ever-Stripping Nipples

Great band...

[fiamme red]

Best name for something ever-Stripping NipplesAs Dave Barry would say, WBAGNFARB. :)

[Black Dog]

Looks look like the holes are directional and you need to flip the rim around or move it over by one hole. Assuming you lined up the valve holes of the rims when you transferred over the spokes you probably had the new rim “backwards”.

[ryker]

Looks look like the holes are directional and you need to flip the rim around or move it over by one hole. Assuming you lined up the valve holes of the rims when you transferred over the spokes you probably had the new rim “backwards”.

If the valve holes were aligned on transfer, there isn't a way for the rim to be backwards unless it was also backwards in the original build. If you think about it, flipping the rim doesn't change the directionality. Which leaves the rim being clocked by one position in this theory.

Is the valve hole positioned between parallel spokes now?

[Black Dog]

If the valve holes were aligned on transfer, there isn't a way for the rim to be backwards unless it was also backwards in the original build. If you think about it, flipping the rim doesn't change the directionality. Which leaves the rim being clocked by one position in this theory.

Is the valve hole positioned between parallel spokes now?

Doh. You are right. My brain let me down on this one.

[oldpotatoe]

If the valve holes were aligned on transfer, there isn't a way for the rim to be backwards unless it was also backwards in the original build. If you think about it, flipping the rim doesn't change the directionality. Which leaves the rim being clocked by one position in this theory.

Is the valve hole positioned between parallel spokes now?

I agree but from the pic, it does look like he laced right side holes to left side flange..